The Cal-look Lounge

I recently have noticed a pretty noticeable amount of money being spent on my current car. It has been a really good car, ending up with a turbocharged 2165cc engine, going 10,4s at 130+ mph. That car will be raced out this season (when it's done..) and after that stripped of engine and gearbox, some parts I want to save and then sold as a roller race project.


I have been wondering about either re-incarnating my current car, or start on a new one. I really want a new cage, and the rear suspension is not really setup for a really fast car.

I could just re-cage it and raise and narrow the torsion, but I really want to have it with registration and insurance (for that one drive per year..). With the current MOT situation in Norway, it's doable, but from 2019 they will be even stricter. I had a plan of swapping the bottom out for a '59 plate I have, as pre-60 cars are MOT exempt in Norway.




But. Then a buddy wanted to sell his former street/race car, and a bit back and forth on the pricing and what he would keep, last night we struck the deal.


So, the current plan for the car is:

This car:

[attachment=1]

Combined with a 8,50 chromoly cage from deep in the Swedish forests, and a RLR rear chassis kit with ladder bars and coil overs.

[attachment=2]


3" raised and 3" narrowed per side.



Engine will be my 2165cc with a new exhaust and turbo, probably try to get 500-550whp. I have a ET in mind also :)



Car will be picked up after SCC, some metal cut out and driven straight to Sweden for caging!



I can't wait  ;D

Looks like an interesting project  ;D

Love it!

Full support from me! Sounds very cool!

Thanks guys,  ;D

The easy way is to order a tube chassis, but I really want to keep the stock front part of the stock chassis.

So the rear parcel tray will be cut out, but other than that pretty much stock body.

If any have links to a build thread with a pan car + ladder bars I would be greatful if you shared :) or pictures  :)

Ahh :)


Took the old '67 to the dyno yesterday :)


The new intake/intercooler setup looks to be working pretty well!


Last time I dynoed the car it had 399hp and 552nm at the tires at 2,1 bars of boost. Now it has 501,5hp and 667nm of torque  :D



Will be a good engine to put in the new project  ;D

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Just turned on notifications for this thread  ;D

Soon all I have originated from Stavanger :D

That's why you are drivinger faster and faster  ;D

Yes! And why you need to ship the cars to the East Cost Chapter of DKL to get your cars even faster  ::) ;D

Hrmpf.. The backhalf kit from RLR almost doubled in price..  ::) I guess the website hadn't been updated in a while.


So either I cough up the 5800$ for the kit (up from 3800), or I stick to torsion bars.  ???

Has the car already got a cage? If so I would get a chassis builder to do the back half, I can't see that being $5800?

Lee

No cage. It's bare inside.

THe kit from RLR is included coil overs, ladder bars, axles tubes and axles. But still  ;D

And the motor plates? If so when you add up those parts individually it gets expensive quickly....

And the plates. But still. I will get the cage / back half quoted here in Scandinavia

A few photos of my pan car build.
[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3]

Thanks! Great pictures.

I have sort of the same planned  :)

Roope:

Did you raise just the transmission? Not the frame forks?

Yes i only raise transmission, about 7cm.

Thanks! Any pictures of the transmission mounts?

Good to have Skype meetings so one can sketch up a cage solution.  ::)

Car goes to Sweden this Saturday for cage and ladder bar work! I?m looking forward to a nice TIG welded Docol (chromoly) cage and backhalfing  :)

The cross tubes from main hoop to the tunnel will be welded to the side of the tunnel, not the top because of the shift linkage..

[attachment=1]

Excuse me, Roope/Erland .......
What sort of spring rate and rear suspension travel are you making for the ladder bar set-up?

3" narrowed axles with ladder bars to the main hoop (around 32" I guess).

I will calculate the needed spring rate from the dimensions of the coil over mounting before purchasing. I need around 380 lbs/inch plus the variables (lower mounting inwards on the axle, and the angle of the coilover at ride height).

I would guess 5-550 lbs/inch

 ;D Thank you Erland.
I have a few Showa Sportsbikes rear shocks in the shed that are around that rate ......
 8)

No problem. Curious what rate I end up with. Will keep the thread updated.

What we don?t do for our hobby?

This was a long, but good day! 906 kilometres over 10,5 hours driving. But the car is now delivered deep in the Swedish forests!

Started at 4.30am this morning, drank a lot of coffee, almost got to take a few deers home without a rifle, saw 2 big ass mooses and a 5-6kg capercaillie (grouse family bird, wish I brought the shotgun..), and hung out with Ola ?st for a few hours before the return drive.


The cage will be as sketched above, but with a single door bar.

We figured out that I need 32 or 33?? ladder bars, so RLR will get a call and an order on Monday. Cage will be done in Docol R8 (chromoly related steel) to keep the weight down.


Scaled the trailer with and without the car, and the car weighs 600kg now. That?s all glass and steel, minus fire wall and parcel shelf, heavy wheels and just a shortblock. 750kg wet would be cool. I guess taking the inner wheel arches, torsion and glass will remove another 40kg. So I can?t add more than 190kg. Doable I think?

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Good progress!  I think I have to upgrade my turbo  ;D
https://www.precisionturbo.net/Street-and-Race/ss/1-200-1-500HP/details/Street-and-Race-Turbocharger---GEN2-PT7675-CEA/606

Hah! All i did was to pick the car up and fired up the angle grinder   ::)

But really looking forward to get the car back!


Maybe I should plan for a new turbo also  ;D

That big-arse turbo has a warning under it "Warning! - Reproductive and cancer harm".
HAH! What a load of crap!

A turbo that big is a chick-magnet for sure.  ;D

Closed my eyes and ordered ladder bars and coilovers yesterday   ::)

Went with double adjustable Strange ones.


One of many orders to come  ;D

No, your fine with your turbo  ;D ;D ;D

You are probably right. For mid 9s anyway  ::)  ;D

Not much progress to show. Moving shop and the ?59 is in Sweden for caging and backhalfing.

Old 67 is tore down and sold, and almost finished with the move!


New shop is approved by Bax  :)

[attachment=1]

Ended up buying ladder bars and coilovers from RLR/Strange. Based on the mounting points we decided on 600lbs springs.

New cage and tubes for the backhalfing is bent up. Progress may continue :)

The tubes are in Docol R8, which is a Swedish made chromoly tubing.



[attachment=1]

Good choice on the shocks and spring rate

Thanks, I think they will be a bit stiffer than 29mm torsion bars. I haven't calculated the wheel rate yet, but think that it'll be 450-475lbs?

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Ola is at it!  8)

Gearbox raised 3". Next up is the correct 3" axles and placement of the main hoop :)

A little more room againts the body with correct axles

[attachment=1]

Gday Erlend.
Nice build-up, thanks for sharing.
How much weight do you think you've saved by using the ladder bar and coil-overs? Is it a lot?
Regards,
Dave

Thanks. All credit is to the fabricator  ::)


I'm actually not sure. My guess is atleast 50lbs. Hoping for a race ready car without me at 1600-1650lbs :)

Looking good mister! Ola sure knows his stuff.

-BB-

Agreed :) On both parts. Can't wait to see the result. Last additional request to Ola is a reinforcing of the mid mount plates on the frame fork side, to get some triangulation. He will also make the flywheel shatter shield. It will be the rear most connection between the frame forks and the horisontal bars over the gearbox and tubes going back from the main hoop.

Small but important update is that main hoop is mocked in place.

Next up is the cage forward of the hoop.

Then rest of the back half tubes.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Anyone ready for more tubes to start off the new year?  8)

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

Nice work  :)

Thanks, but credit goes to the fabricator :)   ;D

I just did a small drawing of how I wanted it  ::)

The latest addition is a couple of bars to further brace the framehorns.

On my former 67 I hade 1 1/2” bars going from the gearbox mount to the cage at 90 degrees to the framehorns (straight up).

But at launches I still could see the engine “hopping” in the back (had to check it out on slow-mo footage..)


This car will be braced a heck of a lot more.. the bars vertically above the framehorns will be tied into the framehorns in front of and back of the axles. And of course to the main hoop.

The braces at the back are of course removable.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

I think I've narrowed wheel choice between Champions or Billet Specialties.

Need to get the car back to measure width and backspace.


[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]


8-10" at the back and 3,5ish inches up front.

Either will look great!

Can't wait until this is finished!

Some beautiful work  , the notches on the tubing are perfect . Congrats on the build. Mike McCarthy

All the work looks really well done but why did you keep the frame forks? they need so much bracing to make strong enough and are heavier than some chromoly tube would be doesn't seem to make sense to me  :)

Thanks! Ola sure knows how to put his game face on :)

Good point. The original plan was a RLR backhalf kit, without framehorns.

But when the price jumped up almost 100% I really couldn't justify it.

Ola could sure build it himself, but the way we have done it now is faster and easier.





And I kind of like the idea that the car has a complete VW frame  ::)

Welcome to the world of race cars :o ;D

Your comment just needed a slight adjustment..  ;D

Our new garage is about halfway between Oslo and Gardermoen, so I thought I should drive the car to SCC the first year it'll race..  ::) I think it's about 25km, so doable  ;D


Does anyone have a good tip about brakes? The car already have discs on all four corners, but 4x130 rotors. Money wise I should just buy new rotors in chevy PCD. 10,22 on EMPI brakes was no problem, so a second faster shouldn't be a big problem?  :o  ;D

No car in the garage, so tore the engine for a checkup.

So far so good!


[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

I can see a car in the garage :D 

Hard to tell on plugs as looks like they done a few passes? but timing mark looks quite far down strap

Not my car  ;D

All last season. Dyno and SCC, and some street miles

How does one read timing on the plug?

On the ground strap, if you do a pass on new plugs and check them after[ mustnt drive car back though, shut it off straight after pass] you will see a ring on strap, around the bend area or slightly before seems to be ideal on alcohol based fuels

Ok, i believe I’ve got around 20° timing at 32-33 psi.

I’ve also spent some time to figure out the angles to mount the coil overs at.

At level axles (0° camber) they will be angled 20° inwards to the middle of the car, and 90° to the upper ladder bar tube.

This will aid the coil overs to not loose wheel rate (spring rate measured at the wheel).

If you mount them straight up, they will get a wrong angle due to the arching of the swingaxle, and get less and less wheel rate as the wheel travels up.

Now the wheel rate should get higher as the car squats more and more.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Hi,

Are the heads  CB wedgeports?
What cc is in the chambers

Thanks,
Lee

Yup, the new style.

67cc chambers, 1,2mm deck and 8,2-1 I think.

Haven’t touched the heads.

What barrels and pistons? Have you dished the pistons?
Thanks,
Lee

Wiseco and REVs.

No need for dishing pistons with big enough chambers

Are you using only the stock dh oil cooler or do you have an extrenal also? , and does your oil temp stay cool with that?

Stock and an Atoimic cooler also. I might skip the DH cooler. The engine will be 3" higher in the new car, and I think I'll need to be able to remove the shroud by just pivoting it out.

Oil temps are manageable  ;D

Tore the rest of the engine last night, rod bearings are shite and mains may work again.

I'll change the oil pump as it finally got some nicks in it.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

Solution: Dry sump. Check out TP pump. Very good stuff.
CB is more affordable but needs massaging and has some questions marks.
Pauter, Autocraft are jewels but are probably overkill for most applications.

I've thought the same thought.. However I've never had any oil pressure problem.

I believe this may be a crank issue? The crank only has 1 oil port per rod, and consequently the rod bearing needs to drag the oil 1 round, before being oiled on the same spot?

Looks like oil contamination from E85 & maybe some aeration of oil to me, center main looks pretty good for all the abuse it gets, also oil pressure like boost pressure is only a measure of resistance, its flow the bearings really need, thick cold oil gives lots of pressure but no flow which is why we pre heat oil :)

Thanks!

I never drive it before the oil is hot. But yeah, I admit to using thick oil  ;D

Maybe I should start to get parts for a dry sump system after all..

Richie: Internal vs. external bearing grooves. Done any research?

I used plenty of both, never seen any real evidence of either being better or worse, more important to make sure oil holes line up and bearing is decent quality material

Jo said you’ve got silverlines in stock? Any good?

You need to use a better oil, Ester base handles E85 very well, gives a stronger oil film and hangs on to metal longer. It`s all about when the oil film gives up ;)

I'm sure oil plays it’s part also!

I’ll clean the case and internals up good and slap new bearings in it. Might do a dry sump, if the money is right..



I only need a few bits and bobs on the engine this year, so quite pleased!

While the car is in Sweden, the engine in pieces, and the transmission in plastic waiting to get re-sealed, I'm thinking about making the new exhaust  ;D

I think I need a new header, as the "CB-style" I have will interfere with everything.. Tubo will hit the rear valance at the minimum.




That said, I also need to make new plenums, or at least redo the ones I have. They will be too tall, at least the entrance pipes into the plenums.

[attachment=1]

I was hoping to not have to cut away the "roof" below the window inside the engine room.


Looking at old pictures, I'm hoping I can use the intake/TBs at all..

[attachment=2]

Again ;D

Hah! I’m not complaining.. I’m just breaking everything down, so I can sleep at night without crying  ;D

With all that room you have over trans now seems stupid to not move turbo forward anyway to help with weight distribution :)

I know. Need to flip the centre in the IC then also, but should be easy enough..

More bars done from the Swedish wizard!

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

 I really like what you have done with your chassis except using the torsion housing . Like Richie said shedding that would reduce some weight . I am working on my car right now, a 66 bug , back halved with ladder bars and a swingaxle . I cut mine off about an inch behind my ladder bar mount pipes. I plan to run everything inside my hollowed out tunnel, lines and wiring .  Great work , keep it up, Mike McCarthy

Look again  ;)

It’s not cut all the way yet.

Or did you actually mean the frame forks?

exactly . I also raised mine 3.5 inches .

Cost and time wise it was easier to just make 3 inch raised mounts.

Transmission is raised 3 inches

Beautiful Work!!

More done  :o

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Looking at pics of rear end, a pair of motor plates would attach easily then you could lose the frame horns

Yes, but then I would need new motor plates and placement of the new motor plates if I need a Mendy in the future  ::)



I think I'll stick to this plan for the time being. It will be a lot better than what I had..

Looks very nice!
Are the rear coilovers going to mount to the bars across the top of the gearbox?
Is that a likely spot?

It will get some bars to the top mount. Not 100% where it will be in the pictures, but the math is done, and cage builder has angles and lengths to build from.

Some sort of triangulated top mount  :)

And the «D-bars» for a pan car

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Det blir bra när Ola tillverkar  :D
/// M

Yes! Really good so far. Can't wait to get it back to Norway and start on the rest  ;D

Planning to pick up the car on the 13th of April. Can’t wait.

It will need a few patches of new metal in the body before I start on the rest  ::)

Hello there  ;D


[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Nice  ;D

I might need a new jack. A low one  ;D

[attachment=1]

Having a beer and drawing up the wheel/tire combo.

Have 11,5’’ of room behind the fender.

Going Hoosier 9.5 DOT tires on a 8’’ rim I think. But need to remeasure again before ordering

[attachment=1]

Measure twice, order wheels once  ;)

Did a mockup with brakes yesterday. 8’’ rims with 3,5” backspace will do the trick. I have 9,5” Hoosier dot slicks lying around, but I’ll have room for 11,5” slicks also. The Hoosier DOT slicks are measured at the sidewall.


Brakes are ordered. Wheels and tires will be ordered ASAP  ;D

While waiting for parts, one can only tinker with other stuff.

Longblock is back together. Need to re-gasket the transmission, before I swap that in to the car.

Then engine and the start of the new exhaust and intake

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

Too tall throttle bodies  ;D

[attachment=1]

Solution

[attachment=4]

Need some more welding and porting

[attachment=2]

The new plenum placement

[attachment=3]

Both manifolds are welded together.

Needed some added material for porting.

This aluminium sucks(!) pretty easy to weld, but dirty as hell  >:(

[attachment=1]

contamination, clean it with acid after welding :-)

It pulled so much junk up from the aluminium when welding. And it's pourus also.


1 runner done, 3 to go.

 :)

All runners welded and ported. Need to fill some metal in the porous aluminium  ::)

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

There is some progress at least   ::)

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

Nothing big to share really. Body and floor pan / cage is split. Need to give the body some love.

2+ cm fenders are ordered.
Mendeola 2D is sorted
Vertigate is sorted
Type 1 trans sold

Just need to do everything on the list :p

[attachment=1]

Mendeola is fitted, converted to 5’’ 300M axles from Rancho.

Body is rust welded, picking up the flip front on Tuesday.

New clutch discs is ordered from Black Magic.

[attachment=1]

[attachment=2]


Next will be the rest. Starting with the flip front, then fuel/water tank.

After that exhaust from scratch, intake etc etc  ;D

Looking good Erlend , almost a year since last update :)

Rgs/Erich

Just saw your manifoldweldings , you need to clean each bead  after welding , normally it`s enough with a soft wirebrush ( brass) .

I’ll make a longer update post over new year’s ..  ::)

Header is done, up pipe to the turbo is done, IC is done, new body is on (the previous body had a bad “kink” in it and did not fit straight),

Wiring is under way, fenders are mocked up in rear, and fits 28x11,5 DOT slicks under stock fenders on stock placements.

New turbo, as the last did not quite survive being used over its potential.

New turbo is a BW S257 SXE.

Compressor:

Borg Warner 4" Inlet/2" outlet Ported Compressor Housing
Integrated Speed Port (Sensor Not Included)
57.15/76.20mm Billet Compressor Wheel w/ Extended Tip
Turbine:

69.56/61.43mm Turbine Wheel


Compressor wheel is just marginal bigger, but turbine is a lot bigger. Should work fine with the power output I’m after

That is looking so awesome Erlend.
Please finish soon as we can see/hear it run!!  ;) :D

Looking very good Erlend :)

Rgs/E