The Cal-look Lounge

Any new bearing info?

What's good and bad now?


What is available?

Hi Erlend.

6mths ago or so (parts bought 1 yr ago) I put a stocker together with basic Silverlines for the mains and cam bearings, and Clevites for the rods, and it specced out perfect.

Std everywhere, OEM crank/rods and untouched original used case.

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Thanks,

Last steel backed silverlines I bought were really light. Did not trust the bearings.

After that I stumbled over a machine shop with some old KS in stock. But that was the last ones.


I think I have clevite rod bearings now. But think I need new ones  ::)

There's some .25 under rod bearings on ebay genuine old stock  ks. Some .50 under too but no std left. Good prices too. I've some std I could be tempted to part with a set.

Mains silver line have decent rep

My crank is turned with 3 rods on 0,25 and 1 rod at 0,50 (i think).

Or 3 std and 1 0,25..


Need to split the engine and see. Can't find my log book.

You're in luck so, same seller has both sizes

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pleuellager-Satz-Minus-0-25-NOS-original-VW-f%C3%BCr-K%C3%A4fer-Bus-Typ-1-8-Lagerschalen/272020958626

Im the same as modnrod - I am running Kolbenschmidt NOS mains and Clevite rod bearings in my 2276t. I tried Silverline but was having trouble with fitment in a brand new alu case with a DPR crank. The KS's helped for sure, measuring out perfectly. I swear, I spent over $100 just swapping out bearings before the short block was ever sealed up. For those 'deeper parts' I dont mind spending extra time and money to give me peace of mind.

 

I agree.

I have KS and Clevite now. Think maybe a rod bearing is going south. Some flaking in the last oil change  ::)

That’s a bummer to hear but also good to know - at least you can remedy the situation before catastrophic failure. It sounds like Clevites aren’t made with the materials they used to be. Pat Downs of CB Performance had posted this recently.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190130/aff531f7e79860d41f536234c19de5d6.jpg)


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The ones I have in the engine now is at least 2 years old, plus shelf time.

No flaking, but time for a swap... ;D

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E85 "spots" everywhere. Just shows how important it is to change oil often on a etanol engine. Good save! Have the bearings been changed before? If not, 10 seasons or so?

-BB-

1 oil change for the dyno day, and 1 for SCC.

Yes, they are 2 seasons old.

Thats why I suggested an oil heater in your build thread, its not getting hot enough to burn off contamination

Yup, I think I need a new one. Had a sump plate one, but it failed. Might need to build it into a dry sump tank  ::)

How hot do you warm the oil to before starting the engine?

You can fit one into normal sump if you stay wet sump, they have a weld in bung, we have it plugged in for about an hour before 1st run of day, then start engine to do all checks, and after its shut off plug it back in until we go to lanes, I pre heat it every time I start it

https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Oil-Pan-Sump-Immersion-Heater/1558864/10002/-1

Thanks,

Just need to find a heater for a civilised power voltage  ;D

DEFA 411294
tip from turbo town ;)
/// Micke

600 w. Now we`re talking. Good tip!

-BB-

Hahaha!  ;D

;)