The Cal-look Lounge

So as i am rebuilding my engine and I wanna make it to the highest possible standards i thought about opening this topic.
I have a std size original VW case , measured and found ok !
I gonna install a set of Silverline Main Bearings .
As far as i heard some of the best aftermarket currently available.
Oil is going to be Motul 300v 15w50

When setting up the clearance , what to pay attention for ?  What is your recommended clearance?
For street use , for strip use .
Do you put an oil groove into the split bearings ?
How deep and how large ?
How do you measure the clearance?
With a gauge or do you use plasticgauge ?
The split bearing obviously needs to be checked with the case bolted together , what about the circle ones ? Do they change installed or laying on the bench ? Do they crush ?

How to prepare the conrod bearings ?
   

Make sure the oil hole in the bearing saddle isn't half covered by the main bearing oil groove
Mains need to be a snug fit in the saddle cup, the flanged bearing has to snug at the flange sides too.
So your standard case thrust is 22mm.The main bearing needs to be at least 22 mm, Just under 22mm is better as it creates a tighter fit.

I did so , all the holes are aligned after some Dremel usage they are all fully open to the groove, i also opened the holes im the bearings to the original VW spec 6 mm , they were only like 4mm before.
Put a groove of 0,35 mm deep 2,5 wide into #2 bearing . 
#4 bearing opened the hole from 1,5 mm to 2,5 mm so it fully aligns and has the same diameter as original VW bearings .
Bearing clearance measured , between 0,055 an 0,06 mm .
#1 has a tight fit, 21,98 mm
Guess this should make it

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210102/e7ba745de47922203ca7a6d5e9b3c6a5.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210102/34d3eff48dfcfef8aaea28b675b96719.jpg)

 (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210102/dc39ed249b34c85d4419c0c78d1bb17e.jpg)


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Looks like your on to the next build stage. The crank Web clearance work on the case looks carefully done.
One of my tips is use the allen headed oil pressure relief valve caps instead of the original ones.
And put an oil return into the case were the crank seal goes. Look at the oil return for the cam. Replicate it, some cases have them already, some don't.

Thanks for the info , my case got the oil return from the crank seal down into the case , and i have the CSP plugs ready to be installed too
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210102/4a20f8288599d06e48974eb720d65295.jpg)

I hope I get to prepare the cam bearings tomorrow and maybe start with the conrod bearings too .

Camshaft bearings set to 0,06 mm

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210103/e32200af38e3b0ab0143cbfa94afeead.jpg)

I only realized now how much to tight they always have been on my previous builds


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Tomorrow I will take care about the cam gear . Got a little selection to make it fit
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210103/1d411d964c7c07ca55df30d7febebcfe.jpg)

All original Volkswagen Magnesium , reworked by myself .

They clear well with a 30 mm Pump

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210103/2a58faa16f8797170b38b172ad9b03cd.jpg)

I think you should reconsider using 50 wt tar in a new engine with that big pump.

You mean the oil ?


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Yes oil. Maybe use 15/40

Thanks for the tip , can you explain me why ?
I run full flow with external filter and external oil cooler

The conrod clearance is checked and they are 0,45 - 0,06 . The 0,06 comes du to the fact that my crank has been resurfaced due to minor scratches . Still within limitd but 0,01 less in diameter on this (#2 Conrod)

The camgear is set to 0,01 mm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210104/2bbc8ba47515e1c94b19592fd84f7e53.jpg)

The crank clearance fwd/back is set to 0,1 mm so straight to the middle

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210104/c04339feb22d1d98fd47693cb9a99c3a.jpg)

For the assembly I used Permatex, the new stuff from CSP , it feels good to work with it !


 

1 problem that can occur with 20/50 and tight specs is the  oil filter can pop on a cold start up with a 30 mm pump.
Always use original oil pressure springs and pistons. Never use oil pressure booster kits

Thanks , yes i have standard springs and pistons to go into the engine .
I tried those tuning springs and i got hot oil like crazy. So i only use the stock ones .
The problem with cold starts I don t think it is too much of a problem.
First i only drive it in summer and it is always parked inside. I run a Gene Berg Oil pump cover with pressure bypass .

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210104/476b98d0e25c532aef2bc7bc6b2ee26e.jpg)

And i wanna use 15 w 50 , not the 20w 50 like i used in the passed .
I was always with castrol classic but once it is hot , it will stay for the whole day .... it doesnt get rid of the temp.
So i wanna go to the Motul 300v competition in both , the split and my dragster .

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210105/b2fa19fadbe67ff943089405808f6b67.jpg)

Rings are gaped , first ring 0,35 mm
Second ring 0,45 mm and the oil rings where ok out of the box at 0,25

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210105/fed8c39307367a9f935b4f519a2d1852.jpg)

Deck height currently at 2 mm
Chamber volume is 47 ccm
With 90,5 x 78,4 this brings me to 9,4 CR , i aim for 1,5 deck height which brings me to 9,9 .
I think about setting 0,5 mm deck height and putting a copper ring of 1 mm into the head .

Hi, your build looks good.
Thanks for the technical Information.

I have a question,
Where did you buy the cam bolts from?

Regards
Michael

Thank you , I am still learning a lot about these engines , i started this topic mainly to get some advise from the professionals out there.

The bolts are 5/16 UNF 1/2 inch long , I ordered them from a German page called zollshop.de

Thanks for the quick reply,
Luckily i am German  :)
Thank you
Michael

Do you Loctite or something to secure them? Or any washers ?
Regards
Michael

I use lock tight and no washers. Check bolt head to oil pump clearance.

I use Loctite and washers . I used the domehead bolts , those give you a lot of gap between the head and the oilpump .
But always check it !


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Cool!
Spring loaded washers ( is that the proper word?) or regular ones?
Yeah the domehead bolts are great!

I don t know what they are called , but yes , i used those

Build looks like a solid start.
I'm with Garrick on the oil though.
My new 2276 is on 5w/40 and I still have 80psi coil oil pressure at idle. And 25 hot.
Will maybe switch to a 0w/40 if I can find one I like.

Spring washers are a bad idea. Just use a dome head screw and loctite. Some kits come.with serrated washers, I had a cam gear come loose with those though, think it chews into the aluminium too much.

I don t like those serrated washers at all , the wheel looks like a mess after disassembling it once . On the other hand i always like to have a washer under the head of a bolt.
At the end , I dont think it makes much of a difference with or without a spring washer.
The oil thing I keep in mind , i will have a look at those Oil topics here once more   

I've never used washers. Sounds scary just using bolts doesn't it. Those star washers dig into the wheel. So do spring washers.

The spring washer that vw used under the rocker hold down nuts are nice.one piece

Sorry , i forgot to mention this , yes the spring washers i used are one piece units.
Not from VW but like “S” shaped


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The reason your engine gets hot is because you're using 50wt oil. The high pressure it causes when it's hot, makes the oil bypass the stock oil cooler.

What is the inside diameter of your engine's bearings?  Are they within VW's specifications?
What is the outside diameter of your crank and rod journals? Are they within VW's specs?  If yes to both, then you need to use an xW-30 oil because the clearances are designed for 30wt oil.

There is a famous quote from a GM executive: "Parts left out cost nothing and cause no service problems."  I have a friend who used the Berg bypass cover on his engine. I'm not sure if it was the second or third time he had to call a ramp truck to get his car taken home because the plunger got stuck in the bypass position, leaving him with no oil pressure, that caused him to take the Berg cover off.  The problem it was supposed to cure, never existed in the first place because he uses an xW-30 oil. Referring back to the quote above, the part he left out, eliminated the service problems.

I know what you mean , things not present can t break down
Yes all dimensions are within VW specs, i am on looking into the oil thing for the moment.
My dragster engine is getting the Motul 15w50 300v competition for sure , but thats a different story .
I thought about maybee using different oils over the year to see how it reacts on pressure and temp .

That is IMO the best idea. See what YOUR engine wants. Bang a 10w/50 in or whatever, and adjust as and when you get a handle on your hot and cold pressure.

Look für "corrugated washer"  ;)

Motul 300V 15W50 is a very good idea.

Bearing clearance was a critical part of my engine build, according to the engine builder. He said it was super important to have enough clearance to allow the oil to flow thru the bearing on an air-cooled engine.
To size the bearings he told me he used paper towel rubbing by hand, using WD40 with the paper towel, and it took like an hour of rubbing to increase one bearing clearance by a thou.

Watch this video where at around the 2:00 minute mark, Steve explains the clearances and how important they are, and unfortunately someone interrupts him just as he says what the end clearance is, but I think it was 5 thou, and the cam clearance 1 to 1-1/2 thou. When he mentions what he did with "his own car" he wasn't talking about a VW, more likely his street-driven 2500hp Mazda RX7  ;)

https://youtu.be/K7djBcHGKYg

As for the oil weight, watch your oil pressure when driving and try to keep 10psi pressure for each 1000rpm as a rule of thumb.
For my hot-running turbo, it needs 10w60 to keep the pressure up while at speed on the highway, otherwise the pressure drops as the oil gets hot and you can clearly see that with your gauge.

I bought washer and bolts . They fit perfect!
Thank you

I don't think I've ever heard of a dumber way to increase the ID of a bearing. Especially when you have a lathe right there.  I guarantee, the ID isn't round using that method.

I agree! Not sure how you'd use a lathe to hold half a bearing, but I'm sure there are other ways to increase bearing clearance.

I did myself this tool to hold the bearing in the lathe to cut the groove for example .
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/28441c0c82b93ce55933913849bcd8aa.jpg)

In the meantime i did the deck height .
0,57 mm plus a 1,48 copper ring in the head brings me to 2,05 mm over all .
This results in a 9,4/1 static C/R
I only run 98 octane fuel and gonna put the ignition to 29 degree max advance .
This should be on the safe side with a Pauter F8E8 cam .
Next will be installing the heads which got new Gene Berg Valve Keeper Locks as the previous Locks where too tight . Now they got a nice little gap

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/70c4843554fdfd2c9eaf2455841398c0.jpg)

After that i will modify my rocker shaft to get rid of the springs and put the rocker arms into a better position to make sure the valves turn nicely.
I know i could build ready to use ones , but where is the fun on buying stuff you can do yourself .


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Those head studs look long .

This picture was taken yesterday , today they look different already ;)


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2mm deck height is too much ..... keep it less than 1.5mm.
What heads do you use?
Maybe you can rework the chamber to lower compression a little then...
Regards
Michael

I know 2 mm is a lot , but my heads have only 47 ccm volume .
To keep they heat as much as possible out of the cylinders i chose the way i did with the rings inside the head.
Due to this the combustion mostly happens in the head and only 0,57-0,58 in the cylinders .
My heads come from Udo , he did the ports and valve springs etc.
Anyhow the heads are on now , so i will give it a try this way .
On my other engine i usually aimed for 1,3 mm deck height . In this case i have to go this way now , try it and “hope” it works but i suspect with 9,4 C/R this is sufficent to compress enough to make it run smooth

Ok , i understand .
But if the copper rings are part off the heads or the cylinder is like splitting hair  ;D
In the end of the day you will have  no "perfect" quench. ;D
Well and you can try later easy 1mm copper rings if you like
And never touch Udo heads ... there are always very good.

Dish your pistons  ;)

In case of , this would have been my choice .
I actually thought about this .
Next time i have a unserviceable piston i will give it a try on the lathe


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So here they are , my first selfmade rocker arm shafts, still need shimming and adjustment, an domehead M8 bolts to clear the heads .

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/ed7490a06df096aae0ec785b920edcd3.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/bd411bc63fedac643c0b1836f4e5b560.jpg)

This was just a mock up on an old head .


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Looks good. I always have discs in between, because I think it turns easier.

Yes , the discs or shims are going to be done on the real head , i also plan to groove the shaft for improved oilflow to the adjustment screw .
This will all be done next


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Why not use a new ratio rocker set? More lift and a better design.  :)

Yes i know , for the moment i wanna stick with the stock ones , maybe one day i gomma uprade but you can t do everything at ones ;)
Maybee 1,25 one day , but the engine was actually really fine with good torque in my Bus .


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Ask Udo what he recommends for his heads. It's a cheap upgrade worth doing first time around for free lift if your heads will appreciate it. Free power!  :D

So my solid rocker arms are done ,
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210121/f859d685eb8c9c5ee41bb886c09b062b.jpg)

But now i am facing a problem i had already before . When checking the valve geometry i found while sitting on half valve travel i fits perfect in line with the bolt . So far so good .
But the adjustment bolt is almost bottomed out
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210121/d666999cf15c1570a1dbe2288aad4a90.jpg)

Lick the stock length pushrods are too short .
So my first idea was to put lash caps on .
By taking a mm of the block away i destroy the angle I guess . Or maybe using swivel feet adjusters ?
What do you recommend in this case ?
Or getting longer pushrods ?
Greets
Sam 


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I just spotted , the pushrods are 277 mm so not the full 280 stock length . I guess they where shortened somewhere a while back .
So i guess i go for 280 mm rods .
This should fix the issue I guess

Sam,
Im not an engine builder but... Are the stock adjusters going to be strong/tough enough to handle the increased load from the new cam and springs?
Also are you not going to run lash caps anyway to stop the ends of the valves from wearing??

Cheers
Marc

With stronger springs, HD pushrods are recommended. If the pushrods are not perfectly straight, the stress with more spring starts to bend them a bit at a time, until they fail. Same thing with the swivel feet adjusters, they are recommended when the adjust screw is on the valve tip. I used the Smith Bros. style of (the cheaper non-tapered ones) aluminum pushrods that are ground straight, and give you the strength of cromo without the noise. Someone just posted a vid of how to set up the geometry and I thought it was great! https://youtu.be/eTWXzYWieeg

Thanks for the video , looks very interesting !
I will give this a try to make sure everything is correct.


No if not needed i dont plan on putting lashcaps on . I ve got hardened valve tips and pretty mild cam . So it is not really needed .


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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210129/9c6dd6ff215a0bf22dd94dabd5004388.jpg)

As you can see the geometry is not yet where it is supposed to be .
The rocker arm is standing on the right spot on the valve but i don’t like to have the adjuster screwed in this far .
So either milling of the the shaft block about 1-2 mm or putting on lashcaps .
Not yet sure which way to go


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Lashcaps.

I've heard people say they like having lash caps because if there's any damage, you can easily replace the lash cap without pulling the motor.
But what about longer pushrods? That's the other variable in the geometry equation. Adjustable pushrod for checking  ;)

I have an adjustable rod installed
I ve tried to adjust it to a longer value, but in that case , adjuster bolt somewhere in the middle range, longer rod, the geometry is way of , it is not even close to follow the valve in a straight line.
so to me the center of the rocker shaft and the top of the valves are not in the right relation , so either the valve should be longer , ( in case of a lash cap that is the case) or the center of the rocker shaft should get closer to the valves .
I will get a set of lash caps tomorrow and will try how it fits .
If I am happy with it I keep it , otherwise I will mill down the blocks.

I would never ever use stock adjuster set-screws on an engine like yours.
If you get swivel foot adjuster screws, you don't need lash caps, and your slightly shorter pushrods will work perfectly.

Ok so swivel foot adjusters are longer than stock ones, interesting. Is the added length of a swivel adjuster similar to the added height of a lash cap? So there are two options to make the effective installed height of the valve stem taller.

When heads are rebuilt, I wonder if there is an established valve stem height as part of the blueprinting of the head or is it take what you get.

can you please explain me why you would never use stock adjusters ?
I have a total valve lift of 10.54 mm and single scat springs.

Gene was never shy

Thanks a lot for this info !


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What about the valve clearance when using lashcaps or swivel feet ?
Still 0,15 mm ?


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What Gene said.

With steel pushrods, set your lash to zero.
You can use .1mm with Al pushrods.

IMHO the best adjusters  can be bought from : http://www.tp-technologie.de

Are the rocker shafts easy to drill?

Yes the rocker shafts where easy to drill , no problem at all with standard drills

So i checked around and there was no way to get around the elephant feet adjusters .
Now the geometry looks good to me

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210208/e46da4b7714207e8fd63184d804dd3ae.jpg)


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