The Cal-look Lounge

Dear Folks....

After much too long time I'm trying to post as much as possible of my R&D of the last years....
I know that much time has past till I posted a threat of my old engine....

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,20436.msg284272.html#msg284272

put step by step I will post all the details and spec and the evolution of my engine....

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www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbtBX-Nt9UU

MeXX

seen it in person, its awesome!

Can t wait to see the magic :)

I always have been really in love with " unlimited NA engines" and seeing how far the V8 guys pushed the small block engines in NASCAR and Australian Pro Stock and the big blocks in NHRA and PDRA..
has been inspiring me to push our tiny Volkswagen engine as far as possible... or at least as I can...

to get the....

Unlimited NA Type 1 engine.....

So what does T1 mean?   of course not a modified stock Beetle engine.... but an engine that is based on that.... with the same bore spacing of 112mm and the same cam location, although a cam trop would make sense it is not necessary...

Unlimited does definitely ask for the maximum displacement, so what is the maximum that makes sense?? in my case 4.040" (102.6mm) bore by 90mm stroke.... for sure the bore can be enlarged even further... as we did... and yes the displacement will get bigger, so it will by more stroke... but the rigidness of the whole strukture will suffer... and but can you really make more horsepower??
That this combo has been the right decision... has come true for me after the last dyno sessions and rack tests....

upside down I will start with the dyno results and the track tests....
as I was asked several times.... still with out Nitrous...... but I can guarantee the day will come....

439,4hp @ 9150 RPM

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the track tests @ TnT in Zerbst in September 2020....
unprepped track...
no full run... launch @ 7800RPM shifts @ 8200 8400 8600 8600
I had to pedal the car in first and slightly in second gear.... but still quite a promising result:

8.903 @ 237.333km/h (148,3mp/h)

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been there  8)

MeXXspeed V3 spec:

displacement 2977ccm
bore 4.040" 102.62mm
stroke 90mm
CR 14.6:1
fuel injected on methanol
Case is Autocraft modified and reinforced (thx to Mike Seymour)
Crank is custom Scat billet flanged 90mm chevy rod and main bearings (thx to Tom Lieb)
Flywheel is billet aluminum with bronze wear plates, billet pressure plate centrifugal enhanced
Pistons are CP X forging 4.040"
Cylinder are billet housings with ductile iron liners
Pins are .866-15-DLC titanium hyprid
Rods are billet titanium 6" length 2" rod bearing and 22mm pin
Heads are Billet MeXXspeed V3.4 canted valves with valve rotation
Valves are Xceldyne titanium 7mm hollow shaft Intake 2.150" (54.6mm), 7mm shaft Exhaust 1.600" (40.6mm)
Rockers are Jesel custom 1.800 pivot arm 1.8 to 2.0 ratio
Pushrods are Manton 9/16" barrel shaped
Lifter are Jesel DLC dogbone roller lifter .904 with .820 roller
Cam is a custom tool steel S7 from Com Cam with Intake 281° .920lift Exhaust 294° .860 lift 112°LCA (thx to Dean Harvey)
Cam geer is Magnum
Retainer CHE coated titanium
Valve springs PSI
Oil pump is Dailey 5 stage dry sump oil vacuum pump
Bearings are King XP
Exhaust is over the top 2 to 2 1/8 stepped inconel with titanium reverse cone stinger

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Thanks for sharing,
always said your work is not only proven in performance but is also work of art!

Whoooo,
I love the injectors above the throttle body s

Hi Eddi....

we moved the injectors as far up as possible.... and gained close to 20hp on the dyno....

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www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkDv919AW_Q

Did the raised injectors make the previous tune too fat, end you could lean it out?

This is a a cool picture.
20 HP is a serious.
Looking at using throttle bodies and placing the injectors above them with a bracket in the oval filter houses like on IDF/dellorto carbs.
This is good mind food then.

.

Yep....

we had to remove fuel from the mapping and got more power on the other hand.... WOT a wonderful world....

Seriously.... it is just about the fuel that enters the combustion chamber as a liquid and even if it is tiny droplets.... it is just lost for the combustion...
So if you get the same amount of fuel evaporated in the combustion chamber it is just on the rich side....
Additionally we could see the egt going up....

MeXX

I guessed that was the only way it would make more power. Better atomization of fuel given the slightly longer time to disburst into a mist.

Yep.... especially on methanol....

Hi,

Have you tested this engine on dyno with race gas or E85?

Hi....

It is running on methanol only.... we tested different kinds like M1 and M5...

MeXX

What pressure on the fuel Martin
  Here in Sweden, they run high pressures type 8 bar on methanol with EFI
to atomize the fuel
/// Micke

What pressure on the fuel Martin
  Here in Sweden, they run high pressures type 8 bar on methanol with EFI
to atomize the fuel
/// Micke


Hi....

Yep the higher the better... at least I think so....
By doing some testing with the spray pattern of the injectors.... I checked out that at certain pressure the injector starts to atomize better...
@ 30 psi really bad just spitting droplets....
@ 40 psi much better
@ 45 psi nearly all fuel is atomize
@ 50 psi all fuel is atomized
@ 55 psi no further change...

That's why I kept the fuel pressure @ 50 psi

To built the ultimate unlimited NA T1 engine the key facts are
as much displacement as possible or better still makes more power...
as high RPM peak power as possible....
Heads that can deliver the CFM the engine is demanding according the first two facts...
A rigid backbone.... a case with crank and rod combo... that can bear that....
Maybe one of the most overlooked part is the valve train that has to be really stable and as straight as possible....

Maybe one of the best examples is Dan Jesel's Equal Eight Engine....

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/the-equal-8-inside-dan-jesels-new-clean-sheet-12000-rpm-v8/


www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdOH6flt6E8


Without a doubt Jesel products are the best available, and there is a reason why, it is not only the quality and the design...
More being in industry for over 40 years.... in a leading position....
I really like what they call "The Straight Column Valvetrain (SCVT)"
The idea behind that is keeping the pushrod angle as straight (less than 1°) as possible, not only because it kills power, more because it just makes it just impossible to run high valve lift and aggressive cam raps....

These pix will show how straight I was able to end up...

So let's start with the backbone... the bottom end...
The case is an autocraft and thx to Mike Seymour it was reinforced by modifying the mold before casting and not welding...
The idea behind that was to have enough material supporting the, bigger in diameter, .904 Jesel roller lifters...

The main studs were upgraded from 7/16 8740 CrMo to M12 tool steel, this was done to get a much higher clamping force to hold the case together on high horsepower and high RPM.
The upgrade was necessary because of the switch to 0W20 oil to keep the much tighter bearing clearance in spec....
Like the main bolts, so are the shuffle pins and the washers manufactured out of tool steel... check out the little collars to keep the aluminum from collapsing into the bore under the high load. The main bolts do have a yield strength of 1890N/mm2 and are finally torqued to 100Nm...

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Autocraft case ready for assembly



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Lifter bores .904 ready for the lifters check out the bolt for the dog bone


 
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Main studs.. black is autocraft silver are tool steel....



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Main and heads studs

The roller lifter are Jesel DLC coated dog bone style with a diameter of. 904".... as they are coated and the case is aluminum the clearance is kept to .02mm.
The dog bone is manufactured out of high strength beryllium bronce and is full floating ....

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Jesel .904 DLC roller lifter with dog bone and hardware


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lifter installer doing their job


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side few, check out the additional aluminum to support the lifters

thanks, this is really interesting to read. Great engineering!

As mentioned before keeping the pushrod as straight as possible was one of the design requirements....

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Giving the case a personal touch...

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Check out the straight pushrod design...

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....

The heart of the bottom end is the custom scat crank shaft...
Compared to the of the shelf part it has thicker webs, bigger radii smaller oil holes and 65mm main bearing diameter....
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Custom crank compared to the "of the shelf " on the right


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Bigger radii and smaller oil holes....

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Thicker webs...

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epic on all levels  8)

As mentioned before the plan has been to run this engine on 0W20 Valvoline Pro V oil...
to keep the bearing clearance in spec it is necessary to have a very precise line bore and bearings that give you the chance to set the clearance to the required value.
A deep groove was machined into the case saddles to keep the bearings supported 360° with oil.... in addition they have to bring enough oil to the oils squirters located in the top side of the saddle pointing to the piston.
The  bearing shells have multiple slots to support the inner groove to lubricate the main bearing and support 360° oil supply for the rod bearings. In the #4 bearing location a roller style bearing is used. As these do not need pressurized oil supply a restriction of 0,5mm has been installed in the oil hole.

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next (master)piece of the of the bottom end is the connecting rod.....
to make it possible to reach peak horsepower above 9000 RPM on 90mm stroke it was essential to use really light yet rigid connecting rod...
even more they have to be able to withstand a serious dose of nitrous....
so my choice has been billet titanium TiAl6V4.....
Using FEA (finite elements analysis) for the design resulting in a connecting rod that can support up to 800hp @ 9000RPM and is a....

431,6g light rod

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Billet TiAl6V4 plank

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I was flabbergasted when I saw your facebook post with the power figure. Thanks for sharing all the details!

Machining of the con rods....
just before everyone asks what that small bore in the rod bearing end is for....
it is just for the mounting in machining step two and EDM....


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after machining step two.... the pre machined rods will go to the EDM machine...
where the big end will be splitted into two parts....

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The EDM result.....

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Machining step 3.... bringing the pin & rod bearing bore to size.....


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This is all top notch stuff and I can't thank you enough for sharing.
Even working with some industry legends the shear amount of parts redeveloped for this engine is amazing.
Keep up the good work and enjoy the thrill of the result.

Finished connecting rod....
Bolt together with ultra low profile spline drive 3/8" SPS bolts.... torqued with 78Nm to keep the rod bearing bore as round as possible....
Check out the tricky oiling grooves that act like an oil pump when the rods are spinning at high RPM to keep the thrust sides from galling.....


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Next part of the rotating assembly is the piston....
The supplier is CP piston they did an X box forging with an extra .125" thick top and an additional. 125" for the dome...
To get the pistons light yet rigid.... there has been done extensive pocket milling inside the piston...


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A no dome low compression version with CR 12.4:1 and a domed version with a  CR of 14.6:1 has been  done....

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Check out the radius on the intake valve pocket... which is very essential for the most critical time of flow.... the overlap....

Later on in the development a version with deeper valve pockets for .900+ lift was done
Check out the tulip style valve pocket to avoid any dead area under the valve.....


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Hello Mexx, I am subscriber of Race Engine Technology since the first issue.
Why? Just because of details like the ones you are sharing here. Extra fun is when you start appearing in their magazines, like Johannes with his Mouse motors and NHRA winning Brian Hyerstays dragster/engine. Aircooled VW´s appearing as top technology.
So, thanks for these post and congratulations to an awesome car and engine!!!

Thx Fredrik....

I dry to mention all the details, that I think they might be interesting for all other folks.... but for sure there will be more than enough questions to be asked.....
So everybody should feel free to ask.... whatever is in his interest....
And I promise to keep on posting details.....

MeXX

Hey MeXX , thanks for sharing all those details with us ! Amazing to see how much effort you are putting in !
Every time I see this car in real life there are more small and big details changed and improved . It is just a stunning car .
I still remember when you showed me and “the next generation” your new door locks on your car , that was the point I realized this is a complete new level of perfection !
Keep up the great work and posts !
Greets Sam and Yannis ;)

Piston close up....
Piston pins were PPP Titanium DLC coated.... put they suffered from to much wear...
so they were replaced by conventional tool steel which were sleeved with titanium to enhance the rigidness...
which is especially necessary to keep them round and prevent the pin bearings from seizing up under high loads...

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DLC coated titanium wrist pins with clearly visible wear...

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More reliable DLC tool steel pins with titanium liner...

THX... MeXX

btw.... next Generation of Racer.... Yannis???

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I've tried to comment here the last hour, but kept drooling over my keyboard..

It's really nice to see you opening up your enige build to the world! Love it  ;D

Next part are the cylinders....
The thinking behind that setup has been to have one piece aluminum housings with ductile lines.....
to get a rigid piece that holds the liners as round as possible to minimize blowby and to ensure an easy change of the liners if they are abused....

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Yes... it is a 7 stud pattern.....

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www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kj5GzmMqtU

I can not see it fully, but I suspect and it looks like you are doing what my machinist does to my cylinders when he machines them.
He does not do it in conventional lathe chuck and end support.

He has a custom made insert expander chuck that centers in the final bore, to get the top and bottom machining in 100% final alignment and with the inner bore.
Makes so much sense but not so many that takes the effort.

Dear Fredrik....

Yep... the way to go.... we machine the outside of the liner.... then they go into a special fixture... like a pipe that holds the liner on the outside... and clamped down by a ring to machine the inside...
so we can guarantee that the cylindricity and the constant wall thickness and therefore the coaxiality.... being in spec on all liners.....

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Are the sleeves pressed into the fins or the fins shrunk onto the sleeves?
I'm think to make the stud work under the exhaust port the fins and sleeves would have to function as a single unit.
Fantastic engineering, I am really enjoying reading your detailed engine developments.

The liners are cool down to -20°C and the aluminum housings are heated to approximately 120°C.... as the interference is only 0.06 mm it is quite easy to put the liners in and just let them shrink in by cooling down....
The 7th stud got neccessary because of the use of nitrous.... the location is not only the hottest  and therefore the section with most heat expansion.... it is the area with the lowest clamping force due the big distance between two head studs.... and therefore it is prone to torch the head in this area...

Thanks so much for posting this! I am not an engineer but this is the stuff I dream of doing if I had enough time and equipment........great to see someone really taking things to another level.

Same here, just playing with a lath and mill at the moment, and with no machining history, very hard to do right.
But I have fun with it and to less of time.

keep the pictures comming

Pushrods are supplied by Manton....
The dimension is 9/16 .120 wall....
They are machined down to a a barrel shape with a wall thickness of .100
After having unusual high wear due harmonics on the intake valve the wall thickness was increased to .112 to enhance rigidity and increase the natural frequencies....

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Barrel shape after machining.... and the finished pushrods


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9/16 .100" wall


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9/16 .120" wall

THANKS AGAIN!!!  I know we are many who adore this handicraft and the fact that you share so nicely.
Really makes my day as updates keep coming.

Pushrods are interesting.
How Pro Stock/Pro Mod/TF etc. over the years increased size and rigidity and kept on gaining better harmony albeit the large increase in weight.

I bought CF pushrods in mid 80´s and tested them on a friends 2332 with FK89.
We never got it to work. The zero expansion of the PR spooked us.
We even tried quarter of a turn tight at startup and that should not have been good at all, still it fired up (theoretically with some valves open) BUT soon very much play stopped us.

In latest RET magazine AWA is again promising the release of both conrods and now CF PR.
Have anyone over the years they have been advertising, seen or heard of any engine running their parts?
So, how do they solve the zero expansion or it is not an issue (less) on watercooled and rigid engines?

Conrods: Your rods are really similar to latest Koenigsegg Jesko conrods made by AutoVerdi. Very cool! Now their rods are not titanium.

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Is it primarely the extra weight that stops the harmonics or the barel shape?

I had to find a picture....
I was "slightly wrong" on my statement of the Koenigsegg Auto Verdi rod.
Some similarities but very different.
Might be off topic to your engine but most of us like this kind of "Engine Porn", so I hope you are OK with it?

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Dear Fredrik....

you are more than welcome... I really appreciate the comparison with Koenigsegg.... you are right looks like Koenigsegg copied my rods..... ;D....

MeXX

Yep... I checked out the parts from AWA @ PRI 2018..... but the do have only  one dimension of pushrods .500.... very light... only 59g but not suitable fid my application....

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First of all.... the more pushrod the better.. don't be concerned about the weight of the pushrods.... but the dimensions are more tricky....
The common thinking is that you can get a rigid pushrods by increasing the diameter and decreasing the wall thickness....
So far so good....
But the reality is more like a teeter toter....
Bigger diameter more rigid 🙂 but heavier ☹ and lower natural frequencies 🤮
Less wall thickness less weight 🙂 but less rigid ☹ and lower natural frequencies 🤮

So the best solution is a small big diameter with small big wall thickness.....🙄

Keeping in mind that the higher the rocker ratio get the more you are running in trouble... its just a multiplier of lift and troubles... especially everything that exceeds 1.8

The next part I wanna point out is the oiling system....
As the big boys... the V8 Pro Stock I'm using dry sump on 0W oil...
The pump of my choice is  Dailey Engineering 5 stage pump...
The pressure section is a 1.200" wide spur gear
The 4 scavage sections are are 1.250" wide two lobe rotor style.. like a tiny roots blower....
The advantage of this style is to have low drag and the create quite good crank case vacuum.....
Each cylinder head is scavaged by one stage... and a kind of mini sump is scavaged by two stages....
Turned out to be quite a challenge to find the right place for the pump and do nice and clean plumbing for all 7 lines....


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So the best solution is a small big diameter with small big wall thickness.....🙄

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Ha ha ha! Very helpful!  

I meant nothing else than that Thomas Johansson, a local nice guy here that did all the simulations and design of that rod, was inspired and then he copied yours.
Now more engine porn off topic from your thread.
Check him out, this guy..... He made his own W9 engine. Plus more fun stuff. (Thanks Martin Carlsson for introducing me)

https://horsepowersports.com/w9-nine-cylinder-e85-engine-project/?fbclid=IwAR3E0Zl-pa0g--g3ApH6E3ixrl0uqwux_sH4ixl8uFDTzuf22Mu9cubQmMQ

http://atomracing.se/?fbclid=IwAR24xECP8SCtwhBDruPVBgMdrRrOo8Qpr3k1h3I4h9E4zfcLgc9gGnKoXSg

http://atora.se/

Some pix of the internal of the Dalley 5 stage pump....

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More pix....

Check out the super tricky two piece titanium clamp for the #16 90° Wiggins fitting... if the torx bolts are not tighten it is able to sniffle to make it point to the right point... After tightening the bolts it is tight to avoid unnecessary movements....



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Very impressive packaging of the pump and mini sump, also interesting you scavenge both heads.
I see in some places you use nylon braided hose and some places stainless braid. I'm wondering why not all nylon braid for the lower weight?
Also, was there a particular reason for the Wiggins clamps on some hoses?
thank you for your patience in answering our questions.

Yep... last first.... the pix are some years old.... now all hoses are nylon brside.... according the Wiggins..  I ❤ Wiggins claps.... but the joints do suffer from wear... I checked out that long hoses (like on the pump) that have the ability to move... will move.... sometimes very wild... I was able to see thar on the dyno...
So.... hoses are either very short to get both side Wiggins.... or mounted... or have one side traditional # fitting...
As my pushrods do have very low angle (less than 1.5°) the scavage of the head has the advantage that the oil doesn't need to "rinse down" the pushrod tube... tending to flood the valve cover...
The mini sump is just a pick up point for the oil....

Machining of a custom tool steel shaft....


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Found one of the latest pix...

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The pump is mounted on a billet bracket which holds the cam home sensor too...

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My understatement,  WOW!

AND SOME!!
All that for an oil tank!!

Mexx, how many litres do you run in the tank and how many might be in the whole system with hoses and filter etc?
Do you have a breather on the engine or just use the one from the top of the tank?
it's a great tank design with the long path to de-airate the oil and a 'sump' on the bottom.

Hi... the tank is quite big... although it doesn't look so.... the thinking behind it was to have a high volume tank in the bottom and a smaller (6") tube to form a high speed hydra cyclone... (yep the effect that dyson uses for their vacuum cleaners...) to get rid of the aeration in the oil... which is definitely quite extensive due the use of the lobe design savage stages.... which is high volume oil and air resulting in high crank case vacuum...
the tank has a capacity of 12liters  and is filled up to 10 liters....
In the bottom there are lots of braces to hold back the oil sludge....
As there is high crank case vacuum there is lots of air pumped into the tank which is routed into the frame rails and from there into the exhaust collector....

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Mex,
(not that I could) Teach you how to suck eggs but I assume you've seen this??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noO16P5vSwQ

Is it perhaps that you cant fit any more length onto the end of the oilpump assembly??

Cheers
Marc

Hi Marc....

yep... I have seen that video, before.... on my old setup with big diameter/low height oil tank and I had a little aeration in the oil... nothing really bad or that concerned me... but on the new setup I tried to do it better... and U know what.... the small diameter/tall oil tank works much better.... see the pix of my old setup....


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Man, access to such milling machines would be so cool.
I love all those pictures, good engineering.

Even your old tank is a work of art!
Jeez  :D

The next part I will cover is the head.... probably the real master piece... but for sure the most research and development...
Being very proud to get help from one of the gear heads in head development from scratch... Darin Morgan how helped me to get my quite well performing heads to the next level.....

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,22692.60.html

To achieve maximum power it was necessary to have high valve lift of over .900" @  over 9000 RPM
To achieve that the following changes were done.

☆ valve rotation in addition to the canted valves
☆ longer valves for more valve lift and better flow
☆ Straight Column Valvetrain (SCVT) features pushrods with less than 1.5* of angularity

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I like the project and the consequent light weight approach of the car! It's very impressive how much hours you spent for the whole project and to see the outcome! Thanks for sharing all the details, it's always interesting to see the progress on the project!

These are basically pix from the version 2.3 which ended up with a vane on the short side radius.....
Just to avoid common misunderstanding these vanes are no devices that increase flow numbers or make the airspeed numbers more even....
They are just the solution for the problem.... if you have fuel fall-out on the shortside radius....
They help to give,  the fuel that is trailing down the shortside radius the chance to be picked up by the air that is accelerate very locally by the vane...


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Hi,

If it’s not secret, I’d like to ask that, how much is the cylinder pressure when you spin the engine by starter?

Just for comparison this are the pix from the new version V3.... how they started life....

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This engine build and the technology you are putting into it is phenomenal! Like many others I am blown away!

A couple of questions from a real novice; but with the injectors so high is there not an high risk of fire outside of the cylinder? Also is machining what you do for a living?

Regards,
Rob.

Dear Rob...

No & No....

If there is a back fire it will exit the manifolds anyway doesn't matter where the fuel injectors are located.... as long as the engine keeps on running its not a big problem as the injected fuel mixed with the air will not keep on burning... as soon as the engine stops running there is no fuel anymore.... In my opinion it is more dangerous to have fuel filters that soak up the fuel spit back through reversion.... and might keep on burning......

The V3.0 was basically the prototype based on the development of the V2.X series.... which was improved  spep by step together with one of the most experienced induction system designer... Darin Morgan....

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Step by step.... port modifications did not only improve the CFM numbers... even more important was to see more and more even airspeed distribution across the CSA.... using a pitot tube....


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Using a wet flow bench is quite interesting.... but not very useful without experienced people how can interpret the results.... After according port modifications including removing the bespoke vane step by step theflow increased....from the low lift (3.8CFM) to high lift (27.7CFM) region....
To get the best over all performance.... we tried to get the best off the seat and low lift flow and than rework the bowl and increase the CSA slightly to get the high lift flow without sacrificing the low lift numbers.....
Check out the second pix to see the benefit for all the countless hours of labor on the bench....
To be honest I'm very proud to work together with one of the gear heads in head design...
And reaching this for me unbelievable numbers... giving me the opportunity to built an unlimited NA engine....


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OK, I have a comment again: THANKS!!!

As soon as the head development was finished.... it was up to design the manifolds with the throttle bodies....
The tuned manifold length was set to 300mm (form the valve seat to the lip of the velocity stack) with the possibility to be shortened up to 25mm to be able to tune it on the dyno for best over all performance...
as the port is 90mm and the stack was set to 80mm (80mm -25mm =65mm (shortest possible stack)) the manifold including the throttle body ended up with a length of 130mm...
which is quite short.... so the decision was done to angle the throttle plates about 12° (see 2nd pix) to get a nice radius and therefore a nice flowpath with airspeed acceleration from the lip of the stack to the valve seat...
without having the necessity of going from left to right side radius....

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The first two pix show nicely the radius of the whole induction system that tightens up towards the valve seat
The downside of the angled throttle plates is the angle between the center line of the shafts....
The levelers are designed to compensate the twisting tue engagement... the nice side effect is the the twisting acts like the return spring... see pix 3 and 4....

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epic work on all levels  :o  8) keep at it

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MeXX,  I was at EBI in 2019 and was privileged to see in person and talk with you as you explained in detail just some of the ultra special one offs of this most advanced vehicle.
The two things that I have focused on is, 1. the butterfly throttle returns shown here and 2. the fact that you have not taken out and have support for the valve seats.  I think this is overlooked in today's off the shelf performance heads, IMO.
I look forward to more of your postings.
Art A.

Hey Art....
 great to hear from you... and thx for your words of honor.... I really appreciate that....
I didn't really get your 2. point.... about the valve seats.... ?.

MeXX

Here come some pix of the super tricky throttle stops made out of billet TiA6V4.....

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The machining to fit the throttle stops was done by hand by some quite tricky self made tooling....

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My valve guide point, is the after market guys cut away so much of the head material that supports the intake valve guide, subject to failure.
Art A.

Dear Art...

absolutely...

It us not only having enough support for the valve guide... it is the combination of quite long valves (5.480") to get a gentle radius....in quite long valve guides (2.650") for a precise support.... and a rigid support in the head....
This is one of the backbone of a stable valve train....

MeXX

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This is so nice engine!!

How about my previous question?

Sorry bout that....

I was using a Motormeter pressure tester for decades.... but the measurements highly depends on the battery and the starter.... doing testing you can clearly checkout a drop of measurement from test to test..... which makes it quite hard to get a accurate feedback.... but anyway.... better than nothing.... what I did....  I tested cylinder 1 2 3 4... waiting a little bit giving the battery and the starter the chance to recover.... then cylinder 4 3 2 1.....
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But my new engine excited the measurable value of 12bar... and the diesel version is able to measure up to 40bar.... would be quite inaccurate.... so I changed to aviation style leak down tester....

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Hope this answers your question.. at least partly.....

MeXX

Thanks Mexx.

I have the same Motormeter tester. And its a bit tricky to use. So I have it and just normal pressure gauge to read while someother person starting the engine. And leak tester also.

Ofcourse pressure will be different depending on battery and starter.

Thanks for your answer!

Good work - I wish I had a little of that time ...  see you  :)

 :o 8)

Found a really nice pix of the "flow path" of the intake port with the manifold as it was designed....
still with the vane on the short side radius... which was removed later on in the R&D...
check out the rigid support of the valve guide Art Alvarez was talking about....
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Flow path?
Come on MeXX those things are more like DRAINS than ports!!
In 'English' we have an expression about it 'not touching the sides'  ;D :D ;)

looks like size does matter....

Outstanding development and commitment MeXX.

Thx MeXX

As mentioned before the engine started with the fuel injectors very low squirting directly on the upper side of the intake valve...
With the longest possible velocity stack possible.... being shorted step by step on the first dyno session to find the best combo...
Starting with a total length if the whole induction system of 300mm for a calculated RPM of 8500...

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Still with the long trumpets... the induction system was on the wet flow bench to optimize the location of the upcoming  stand off injectors....
The right angle sould ensure to keep the fuel as long as possible in the air to optimize atomization.... for sure all on over 400 CFM...
WOT a sound...

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After the first dyno session the final length of the induction system was set to 275mm...
At that length the power maxed out at 9150 RPM
BTW... to give the trumpets a nice shape a new form and new carbon fiber trumpets were done to replace the just shorted long version....

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All the hardware for the stand off and fuel rail was machined out of titanium and welded together.....
Great care was taken to keep the location and angle of the injector so that the fuel  doesn't touch the throttle plate and downstream the manifold without touching the walls....

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The center of the fuel rail, where the fuel enters, is the location of a fuel damper.... which limits the pressure fluctuations....

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beautiful work. I had a couple of questions:
Are there standard diaphragms and springs to make the dampers from, or are they adapted from something else?
Are the Ti legs braised on or welded on? looks a bit like gas welding?
well more than a couple.....
Would there be any advantage to a slide or roller body throttle rather than butterflies? there would be a weight and complexity trade off.  I'm thinking of the issues in trying to spray past the butterfly.
thank you for the fantastic pictures and descriptions.

Hi Ian....

Hope everything is going well down under.....
I really appreciate questions, as it is hard to point out everything and I would miss a lot details ....

Diaphragm is aftermarket holley style Carburetor Diaphragm PART# 135-10.... just cut on the outside.... spring is just according weight to keep the diaphragm in the middle at fuel pressure of 50 psi....

Legs are Tig welded in just high Amps without filler rod.... that why it looks like gas welding....

According the throttle style, it is a trade off anyway.... but there are a few additional considerations I wanna share...
For sure slider and barrel shape do have a flow advantage without a doubt....
but I run open trumpets and stand off injectors so on part throttle the slider or barrels will be wet all the time.... tending that dust will stick on it.... and there is a very high risk that they get stuck... much easier with rotary throttle plates, where you can use sealed roller bearings.... very reliable, and of the shelf....
As the diameter is 65mm the slider and barrels would get quite big and bulky... and therefore additional weight...
Keeping in mind the manifolds will be very short (120mm) fitting a quit big barrel with a diameter of 100mm or even more would be quite tricky....

So the decision was done to keep the traditional throttle plate design....
As the centerlines of the butterflies are not in line the leveler design was a little bit more tricky to overcome the misalignment...
To reduce the flow restriction of the butterfly which is located in the center of the flowpath, this section was designed like a bowl to cope the missing CSA...
a really nice side effect of that design is to get a real good throttle response just for the first few % of opening, as the change in CSA is more progressive....

morgen

thanks Mexx
good food for though in your answers.
We are very lucky in OZ, no cases of community transmission, a fair bit of motor racing is going on and life is pretty normal..... we just can't travel  :(

Man I really love those stand off injectors, gives me that good feeling like formule one engines back in the days.
Your engine is out of this world.. Respect..

The Peter Shattock small engine has the stand off injectors and the rotary throttle plates, which I also like.

Extensive wet flow bench time pays off when looking on the pistons after dyno time...
It is very clearly noticeable that the combustion chamber and the squish area work and the are no dead spots where carbon built up takes place...

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Just WOW

Combustion chamber look even better....
I know most people might think that those chambers are looking' quite unorthodox...
But... that's the design we ended up... after development has been finished up... keeping in mind that there is a valve rotation and it was basically designed for nitrous use so we had to slow down the flame travel... to avoid detonation on high CR for high efficiency....

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The valves used are Xceldyne,  coated titanium..... intake is 7mm hollow stem....
Exhaust is 7mm full stem...
Check out the weight ...

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I'm not shure but it looks like you're running wedge shaped squish area on your heads due to power adder ?
Less knock sensitivity and wider tuning window...

Pekka

Yep.....
Squish area is wedged down by 5°.... very helpful detail... especially on nitrous....
3° for NA,  5° to 7° on nitrous.... 7° to 12° on high boost applications....
Check out the pix... on the outside there is a 6mm wide ring that is not wedged blended with a radius into the 5° area...

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MeXX

just WOW!  insane craftmanship, hats off to you sir!

Two nice shots oh the intake port and the installed piston with the valve diving into valve notch....

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MeXX

During production the recess for the intake valve seat is machined first and the seat is pressed in.....

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The recess for the exhaust valve seat is machined afterwards and interferes the intake....
the installed exhaust seat is interlocking the intake....

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more pix from the production....

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and the finished camber and ports....

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Amazingg

To see that kind of detail and to read and see the depth of what you do, I have only to compare to RET (Race Engine Technology).
I have seen your articles and a couple of updates in that magazine and it is very nice. Now, this is clearly much more than a magazine article.
Appreciate it so much!
Wish more racers would "Dare to Share!".

Special care was taken setting up the valve seat angles.... as this is a super critical area....
The valve spring install height was set up by the according height of the spring locators made out of Beryllium bronce...
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Love this!
I've noticed that the rocker stands are setup two ways, is that because there is a left and right head? Or are you testing 2 different setups?

That's just to get the pushrod set up as straight as possible..
OEM left and right side rockers have the same offset... and both side pushrods are angled....
To correct the left side is quite easy... no offset no angle....
Right side would need double offset to get straight pushrods... or like I prefer rotated rockers....

Left side... the easy one..

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Right side... the rotated one....

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Some pix of the engine assembly....

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More pix...


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Mexx,
The more pictures you show the more amazed I am!!!

Questions:
Looks like 6x heads. Is a pair for sale??  ;D :D ;)
Wrist/Gudgeon pin. Is it made of two materials or some kind of sleeve??

Cheers
Marc

Dear Marc....

Yep the wrist pins are DLC coated .150 thick tool steel... because of the high RPM and nitrous use they are sleeves with titanium....
Don't get me wrong ... the tool steel won't break but the will flex and get out of round a d wear out the pin bearing and the pistons....
I was running thick wall DLC coated titanium wrist pins.... but when the coating wears.... catastrophic failures can occur....

Dear Marc

yep... these heads are for sale too... and yep I have sold a bunch already....

For everybody who is really interested in owning such heads keep the following things in mind....

These heads are for all out racing only... (nope they can not be used for street)
These heads flow 408 CFM@ 1.000 lift  (V2.3)  and 430 CFM @ 1.000 lift (V3) so they can only show their full potential on a engine that demands that amount of flow.
These heads can support up to 420hp (V2.3) and 450hp (V3.0) NA, but that does not mean they will produce that amount of power if the engine does not demand that amount of air.
So if someone wanna built an unlimited NA engine....
big enough in displacement and high RPM and the valve train rigid and stabile enough for a cam with a lift high enough.....

I can guarantee these heads will not be the bottle neck in your setup....

yours... sincerely

MeXX

Btw.: just forgot....
They are not expensive... just reasonable priced for the technology envolved ....

MeXX,
Thanks for that and those numbers, especially the lift, are amazing.
Not that Im in a position to buy but anyone complaining about the cost would simply need to see your build thread to understand the incredible amount of RnD and material machining that has gone into them!!

Marc

Jep...

to max out the displacement is quite easy compared with..
to max out the RPM and the valve lift and keep the valve train stabile...
probably  the most tricky part....

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I love looking at the heads, the pushrod/rocker/valve angles are ingenious. the improvement in the angles everything travels through is amazing.
Do you thread the rocker bolts directly into the aluminium or are there thread inserts, helicoils?
Or are the rockers on studs?

Dear Ian...

Thx for your for your appreciation of my doing....
All individual rocker axels are just bolted down by two M8 12.9 Allen drive bolts.....
The threats go directly in the aluminum of the head without any kind of insert....
But the trick is that these threats are quite long like 25mm (> 6 x d)....
The nice side effect is that you just can torque them down with a cordless drill even if you have to preload the valve springs by doing that....

MeXX

Because of the quite high valve lift of over .900" the height of the rocker stands is .060" or 1.5mm lower than traditional, which is based on the halve lift theories.....



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Some pix of the exhaust and the fabrication...

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due the high temperature it is turning blue...

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Fabrication of the inconel header...

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The jigs are as beautifully made as the exhaust  ;D

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Later on bungs for 4 individual WBOs were installed....
Material was the same as the tubing.... Inconel 625.... quite hard to machining.... but super durable... and heat resistant.....

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Hi Folks..... or is Volks better....

Sorry for the long abstinence.....

but I was out for racing or better test n tune.....

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outside....
www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtR664x1YEg

inside....
www.youtube.com/watch?v=piTQAhBssUM

Cool vids especially the one inside the car.
Maybe I missed this, but how do you change the gears in your gearbox. I see the gearstick moving, which looks funny/strange  :D

Exactly Eddie.
Id guess thats pneumatic actuation (compressed gas of some kind) but is it triggered by the ECU?

Also I didnt see a 'trans' brake/line lock so how did you keep the car still and/or preload the gearbox??

Oh and forgot to say awesome run. SUper smooth. Looked like you were going to the supermarket!  ;)

Cheers
Marc

Hi Volks...

yep the gearbox... is a topic at its own.... hope I'll find the time to start a new thread...
it is a Porsche G50 converted to Seamless... (Liberty style)
the shifter is a homemade vertical gate for going to the staring line and driving back after the run....
for the run it is air shifted... by compressed air from a carbon fiber tank 0.2 liter

so you put it into first gear...
will work with line lock in the future...
as long the line lock is aktivated plus a time of 0.4s the solenoid for the first gear stays engaged to keep the gear from popping out...
as soon as the car starts to gain speed, with the rear wheel RPM, the engine RPM ratio and the gear ration, the gear can be calculated...
1. gear detected and shift RPM reached (9200) solenoid for the equal gears is engaged moving the leveler backwards and engaging the 2nd gear in addition to the first...
no preload no ignition cut no retard.... just seamless....
as soon as the 2ng gear is engaged the 1st is disengaged...
2. gear detected and shift RPM reached (9200) solenoid for the unequal gears is engaged moving the leveler forwards and engaging the 3rd gear in addition to the 2nd...
as soon as the 3rd gear is engaged the 2nd is disengaged...
3. gear detected and shift RPM reached (9200) solenoid for the equal gears is engaged moving the leveler backwards and engaging the 4th gear in addition to the 3rd...
as soon as the 4th gear is engaged the 3rd is disengaged...
4. gear detected and shift RPM reached (9200) solenoid for the unequal gears is engaged moving the leveler forwards and engaging the 5th gear in addition to the 4th...
as soon as the 5th gear is engaged the 4th is disengaged...

sounding weired....
yep it is super tricky and took a while to get it working...

www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBU-9QF_pnM

soon more

MeXX

Just AMAZING... :o :o :o

The G50 never seems to have had the best reputation as a smooth box and you've changed it to a proper seamless shifter!!
That was a MASSIVE gamechanger in MotoGP and took huge chunks out of circuit records when Honda first introduced it.

My only question might be what happens to the shift sequence if you get wheelspin? Wont that cause the revs to spike and also perhaps to lose 'loading' on the gears and upset the mechanism?

Cheers
Marc

Dear Mark.....

yep this was one of my biggest concerns..... but even on burn out in 2nd gear when I hit the rev limiter for a punch of seconds the gear doesn't pop out.....
so it looks like it is enough load.... only if you lift the throttle if pops out but you can still pedal the car....

MeXX

check out the Data from a burn out....

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and a run... 8.90s

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MeXX

Damn, and again very impressive..
I like all that technical stuff, so thank you for sharing...
Cool that this is in a vw car.

Hmm,
Blue is rear wheel speed. Faster for the burn out and slight difference between front until the run gets going.
Yellow is front wheel speed. Slight difference at the beging of the run and a nice jump as the front wheels land back on the ground after the initial wheelie.
I think you can also tell the difference in rolling diameter over the course of the run as the yellow overtakes the blue just before you shut the throttle

Im guessing that you average the wheel speed and the box shifts dependent on preset speed settings
Nice work

Mexx, are you on the two step at 9k?

burn out Rev limiter 8800
Rev limiter 9200

MeXX

Hi Volks....

As the high RPM is causing significantly more wear I have been tearing down my engine to have a look at the stressed parts....

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Looks like clutch disc is worn down....

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Only appr. 1mm friction material thickness left.... time to say good bye....

Disassembling of the engine...

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Everything looking fine so far...

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Some wear on the intake seat....

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Hi Mexx

gearbox is very cool 8)

How many passes on that clutch? and the engine since last check/build?


cheers Richie

Hi Richie....

Yep I ♥️ my gearbox too.... but still some details to do....

The engine had appr. 30 runs on it all NA.... but because of the high RPM (red light 9300) I pay a lot attention to the engine internals.... to get more experience about the wear that will take place....

The clutch had about 50 runs on it.... but most with launch RPM 9000.... and no hard launches.... so most of the time the clutch is slipping 1.5s... and I tried burnout in third gear... which did not work.... and as it turned out only the clutch burnd out...🤔....

MeXX.

Valve seats get fresh cut.....

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Cylinder surface
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No wear just minor glazing....

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Fresh hone....

Main bearing look nice and there is no reason to change them....

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that Autocraft case is a solid chunk of metal, do you have any additional thickness added or is this the 'normal' case?
nice to see the bare bones.

Dear Ian...

yep there were some modifications and reinforcements we did in a small production run... unfortunately it did not work in the first run and so they had to be melted down again....

here are some pix from the fresh molded and rough machined cases.....

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so long

MeXX

MeXX, many thanks for those case photos.