The Cal-look Lounge

I know that Udo's lifters are the best.

But just wanted to ask you guys,which lifters do you run with your Engle camshafts?

How are CB lightweights holding up,we saw one set broken,did Scat become any better or is it still the same?

Any reccomendations?

I heard from the local part shop that Bugpack lifters coming from the same factory as the Engle cams, so Bugpack lifters are ok  :)

I have used CB superlights, Scat with and without holes and LN lifters with FK8, FK46, FK89 and FK98 cams - no problems.

My question is - do we actually know that there is such a thing as bad lifters out there? One example, a race engine was taken apart recently after a long race season with many races. It used K800 springs and Brazilian cheap lifters - they where all perfect! Why? I believe it is due to fact that he had the spring pressure under control.

Best rgs
BB

Race engines mean nothing to lifters.  Over a race weekend, your lifters may see a couple of thousand engine revolutions.  When I drive to LA, my engine turns several million revolutions.  Street driven engines are much harder on cams and lifters.

I believe wrong (read little) spring pressure is what is killing the lifters - not the use.

Beetle bug, are you refering to incorrect spring pressure for certain applications (street, race, etc.) or too much/little spring pressure in general?

Both, incorrect spring pressure is still incorrect no matter use and application. Agree?

Springs are a part of it - but i am running not too much spring and had a set of Scat lifters ruin my 1914 on the last trip to baja - Scats are a POS - next engine will get Bug Pack lifters only w/ a engle cam.

Yes, I agree. Running stonger springs with a hotter cam on the street is probably when longevity becomes an issue ???  What did your friend do to keep spring pressure "under control." Springs only get weaker with use.

In the 90's, after having 2 experiences with lifter issues (though both were in motors that had "Chevy" springs and longer valves, 180lb @ seat...) I went back to VW duals, and set them up @ 150-160 @ seat and 300 over the nose, and called Engle to ask them "which lifters do you want me to run?" and they replied "Tayco Bugpacks", which I ran on my FK10, broke in with single HD, switched to my usual dual VW's, good old Kendall GT1 green, put over 17000 miles on cam and lifters and when I tore motor down, no pits. In fact this cam and lifter setup went in the 1966 Bug McNulty and I threw together for Sacramento.
Some of the guys in our old VW club ran Tayco/Bugpacks with their Engles too (one was a used 125 from my motor) and they lived as well. I have Tayco/Bugpac in my 2165 against Engle and I think so far so good, oil keeps clean, no crap on magnet, and last time I dialed valve lift, all was good. Only tearing motor down to cam will tell for sure though.

Has anyone used the complete package from Crane Cams? All you need in a neat cardboard box, cam lifters springs and lube, and a detailed instruction on spring pressure heads and other engine specs that suit the cam?

Are they? Shit, I have them in my new engine.

Good oil is mentioned, of course it is important using a good oil in every engine but if your lifters is not able to follow your cam it`s over and out - no matter which oil you use.

Best rgs
BB






  

I have used Webcam with SLR treated Scat Lube-A-Lobes from Aircooled.net in my last engine. Lifterheads looked perfect after teardown.

Its interesting to me that you mention "not too much spring"

where as I think most people are running not enough spring??

No problems with my Scat lifters,maybe I am just lucky ;)

cheers richie,uk 

May be you are right Richie , but if you have more spring pressure the lifter gets more stressed , that's for shure. I am testing with K-800 without breakin the last weeks and it seems to work , like the old wizemann lifters . I have some on my customers engines that are 10 years old or more . I don't believe in any other lifter since ALL engines i get from customer have pitted lifters .
You can be lucky  :)

Udo

just changed oil in my 2165 today and pulled sump plate to check magnet. 8,000 miles and still free of debris,

I think intial setup and fire-up have a lot to do with cam and lifter life, and that is one reason I say don't build the short block and then lay on the pistons/cyl, heads, then check geometry, check rockers, etc....  do all that stuff before final assembly. I set adjusting screws up first, then bolt rockers on after cranking for oil press (no rockers, no plugs). Once the pressure light's been out for 1+ minute of cranking, then bolt up pushrods and rockers. Otherwise you'll wipe the lube off and dry start the poor things,

I think oil content has a lot to do with what happens too, but that's already been discussed around here.

Lifters hmmmm

I think it is a problem, after 20.000 km with oil the mineral way, new liftes from GB 15years old, and a FK8 Cam, the liftes was gone! The cam here was OKAY!

But what now! my opion is that the old one from the 70` is the best. But i haven´t tested it yet.

Best Regards
Haldex201