The Cal-look Lounge

Wondering what the requirements were for a cage in a 10 sec street legal bug were?
Can you build it yourself as long as you use the correct tube? ???
Cheers,
Kev

10 sec eh  ??? what you up to Kev  ;)

See 'project 55' in `da works`... ;)
Been having a good poke about it & decided its rustier than the titanic :o
Lots of `glass & single skinning the way ahead methinks.. either going to race it or baja it :o
10secs...might as well plan ahead ;)

u can build it yourself
you just have to ask yourself do u trust your life to your welding skills

Here is a tlf: for a guy in Sweden who makes Roll cages for a living.

I have bought one and i think it is very good. 3800dkr.

tlf: 0046702921708

www.svetsosmide.se

The webside is not working at the moment.

Regards Thomas Kiel

Been welding @22 years so yes I do.
Cheers,
Kev

Thanks Thomas 8)

Kev have a word with Frank A.K.A. White Trash before you do anything  ;)

Will do matey, is he on the lounge?

he's on here from time to time, try Boom Boom he'll have his number  ;)

Ken Blomer   Automanics

Or if you want I will send you an MSA handbook if you PM your address. Also I'm only down the road and you can come and have a look at a 10 second tagged cage done by Jon Rathone.

Cheers Pete 8)

Kev,
if you buy the tubing from a recognised source[chassis or cage builders] then you shouldnt have any issues with tubing size or quality,as you know from the underdog,you can buy pre bent cages that you finish fit & weld yourself,its cheaper to buy a cage kit from the states but there rules are different to ours and you need to be more carefull what you are getting.

You will need a minimum 6 point cage with door bar,with harness/seat support bar,ideally the rear down bars would be tied to the frame forks and depending on method of horsepower,2 more bars tied to the rear torsion housing,the floor plates need to be welded and minimum 6inch square but can be shaped to follow the contours or body or pan


cheers richie

Thanks for the advice ritchie, much appreciated 8)

Cheers,
Kev

Looking at the build up (cut apart!) pics of Project 55, I think I'd add a few more bars to brace the cage to the spine, make the body just something to keep the rain off...

As you've removed the original front bulkhead you'll need a dash bar, but this can be smaller diameter than the other tubes, same as the shoulder bar - 1" springs to mind, but don't quote me on that!

I'd add some sill bars in (think they are necessary for an 8.50 tag?) and then take the bars further forwards still - Matt Keene has done this all the way to the beam, which allowed him to remove the front of the heater channels forwards of the door posts. If you take bars higher up from just under the dash to the beam as well, in theory you could remove the frame head too! I'd also take some smaller bars from the sill bars to the spine, to use as seat mounts.

At the back it all depends on what you want to do - I'd brace the B-post hoop back to the ends of the torsion bars, and tie a Kafer cup type brace into the shock towers and frame horns as far back as you can, and have the two rear bars of the cage going back onto that.

Hi Neil thanks for the advice 8)

The plan now is for something pretty much as you`ve suggested, I took a lot of pics of matts car at the volksworld show & will probably rip off his ideas ;D

The only thing I need to decide on is if it will be built onto the pan with the body welded / bolted to tabs on the cage, or build the cage into the shell mounted off the heater channels.I`d like to build everything into the `pan & drop the body on last but I thought there was a bit of a grey area about this with scrutineering??

Anyway, I`ll be floating about on the caspian sea for the next 3-4 weeks & have plenty of time to think about it!

Cheers,
Kev

Kev there should be no issues with either way at scrutineering. As long as your cage and tie in points are the correct spec. Pro mod cars for example are a chassis with a body dropped on! And the other way is legal as that's how ours is being built by Chris Isaacs!

Steve