The Cal-look Lounge

Just looked at latest jug of oil, yep what I already poured in.... >:(  tree-hugger SM oil for low emissions diesels.
According to some research I did last night the Zn is down to under 11% in this new oil
The old stuff was up around 16%

Good SL rated oil is getting harder to find. Castrol has GTX 15W40 which is rated @ 13% Zn and is SL
allegedly, Mobil 1 15W50 full synth is "supposed to be @ 13%" but there was none on the shelf @ Auto Zone this morning... I think it's SM rated anyway  :(

Time to send samples into Blackstone labs I guess.....  or stay up @ night and worry ::)

Was doing the same homework overhere last night..... WORSE.

what did you find?

You guys sure worry a lot. ;) ;D

No more Zinc at all.

Been running my Amsoil 20/50 Racing for almost 30 years now with 1300ppm of zinc. No problems, yet.

Check out the Redline additive - Engine oil break in additive - full of ZDDP - made for flat tappet cam engines - cant fine a part # - check - www.redlineoil.com - use this in every air cooled that i work on  :)

Checked that as well, going to order lots of it from Jegs. European Spec Oils contain no zink anynore. I use to order Kendall GT1 thru a supplier overhere, and even that contains almost no Zn anymore. :-[

Dont forget Brad Penn oil also - old green Kendal - Joe Gibb racing oil too

after hours of reading oil analysis reports, and hunting store shelves, I found M1 5W 40 Delvac, SL rated. About 1500ppm Zn and around 1400ppm Phosphorous. I wanted an oil I can get at any corner AZ or Kragen, as I'm changing every 6-8 weeks, unless I drive in really hot conditions, then more often.
This new motor is first one that I have had in my car that runs cooler if I drive it faster. Around town it hovers @ 180F (90-95F ambient), get on the freeway and drops down below that as indicated by VDO gauge. Weird. Either that scoop I made is really working well and smotheing the Setrab in somewhat cool air, or the doghouse is really working and getting more air from higher rpm of fan on freeway (but as rpms go up, doesn't the rear bypass compress, allowing less oil to dog house?) Bruce Tweddle where are you?

I understand Chevron Delo is another good choice. So the good old Castrol 20/50 is no longer the way to go I guess?

Castrol 20/50 GTX is an SM rated oil, designed to save catalysts. Castrol has omitted the Zn and P levels on their website. Some reports I have looked at show levels as low as 750ppm of Zn....

Delo 400 (SL, CI-4) is good as far as Zn and P goes. The CJ4/SM stuff shows same levels, curiously, on Chevron's site.

Valvoline racing oil is listed at .13 and .12 on zinc and phosphorus. Both versions seem to be at the levels everyone seems to want. The ZR1 variety is on the shelf everywhere. The Not Street Legal variety is special order. I get it from Napa

latest independent testing showed VR1 20W50 at under 950ppm, and it's an SM rated oil designed to save our catalytic converters.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=819165#Post819165

So much for published product info. Can't trust anybody anymore

No Kidding Mike,  :(
And if you check Valvoline's webiste they have this sort of "inner circle" TSB type letter that appears it is supposed to be addressed to Valvoline employees/sales reps, yet to me it sure looks like sales propaganda aimed at you and me, the hobbyists.
If the oil is working in your motor Mike, then cool.... but man, I have seen the wrong oil wreak havoc on VW cams and lifters.... so yeah SARGE,  ;D.... I worry too much.... not like I sleep much these days anyway.

Watch out for the Dello also - parts store down from me has both types - got the wrong stuff last time - they now are selling the EC (energy conserving) - I use it in my PU :o

Actually Jim, I don't use the off the shelf ZR1 Valvoline unless I need it really bad and can't wait. I keep the "Real Valvoline Racing Oil" in stock as well as Brad Penn. I've been using the Brad Penn this last season and I have to say I pretty happy with it. My bearings were almost perfect after 50+ runs. Of course for an oil to "oil" it needs to get there, and I've done quite a bit of work with my oiling system in the last year. I haven't had a lifter problem ever with the race motors regardless of which oil I use, and I'm not particularly nice to 'em on break in either. I run the motor at 2000 rpm for a few minutes, then set timing and idle, and take it out and race it. I don't do any voodoo dance, I don't remove inner valve springs(k-800s) and I don't use any secret sauce. Maybe I've just been lucky.

In Cindy's daily driver, I've been using Valvoline synthetic blend. But those are stock valve springs in a lightly loaded motor.

I read Valvoline's "Propaganda Sheet" aimed at consumers stating that (to summarize) "It ain't the oil causing your lifter problems"

                                       I've never worried about it.

                                                      I've just switched to Amsoil's newer 15/50 racing oil which has 1575ppm of zinc and 1424 ppm of phosphorous. No problems before, but I'm sure this will be even better for my little cam and lifters.

where does a guy in Simi Valley get it?

I can have it on your door in 2-3 days notice.