The Cal-look Lounge

The original fuel line in AssHull's pan was shot, so it needs replacing. I'd like to replace it with some stainless steel braided line, but I don't know what size to get, where to get it, what I need to adapt it to the stock tank, AN fittings... Pretty much everything. Motor isn't anything wild, just a 1915, and the plan is to run a CB rotary fuel pump (Carter). We appreiciate your help! :)

the size line you use is really dictated by if the line thru the pan will be a "pressure" line or a "suction" line. If you mount the pump up front and send the fuel back to motor, AN-5 or 5/16" is more than large enough.

Zach,

Get in touch with HotRodVW from this forum or the CLF. (Same name) He does this stuff for a living and can get you good prices as well.

--louis

Thanks guys. Pump will be mounted up front. Is AN-5 large enough to allow for future engine upgrades?

according to AG Bell, 5/16 wil support 300hp naturally aspirated when used as a pressure line. You need to take into consideration what that pump flows too at a pressure suitable to whatever carbs your running. And what his needle valves will flow.

According to CB's website:

An internal pressure regulator supplies a constant 3 1/2 lbs. of uninterrupted fuel pressure at up to 30 gallons per hour.

They also advertise a 5 1/2lb version. We haven't bought the pump yet, so it isn't set in stone. I would like to use an electric pump that is quiet, and gets the job done. So if there are any other options out there, I'm all ears.

Carbs for now will be 40IDF's, but an upgrade to IDA's is inevitable ;)

Assuming your friend's motor has a VE% of around 75-80% at 6000 rpm, it will ingest about 675lb or air per hour and about 8 gallons of fuel per hour. Even at a VE% of 90%, the motor will use about 9 gallons per hour. Assuming you are running gasoline,

so a 3 1/2lbs pump and a stock fuel line will work as well? ;)

3.5psi is right for Weber needle valves, but I do not know they gph you're needing or what that pump puts out. And, I could not get the stock fuel line to feed my 2054cc IDA motor at high load situations. The motor would run the float bowls dry, even with size 300 needles. Obviously a supply somewhere up stream. I was running Facet pump with 7mm VW hose and stock pipe in pan and stock outlet out of tank. On the freeway, if I ran my foot down hard, I'd get about a mile, and the motor would fall on its face. Kill motor, pull over, look down stacks of carbs and crank linkage.... nothing coming from nozzles.
After a long talk with Jerry and John @ Hoses Unlimited, I went to AN-6 Parker push-lock hose and fittings throughout, along with Holley blue pump and red regulator and Earl's 90-degree AN-6 x 12mm into Webers. I also drilled the inlet passages of carbs (above needle) larger. This finally worked.

Sheep's 1914 IDA motor wouldn't run hard with stock line either. We ran AN-6 thru tunnel and Mallory pump, Holley regulator on his car too.

One thing you might want to think about too: a drag (only) car with a 160hp engine is going to use fuel system differently than a 160hp street car. You might make it thru the quarter mile with what's in the float bowls, but on a long incline, if you put your foot in it, you may not. So think about what you're using the car for. I think a lot of the old drag cars that "made it" on the stock line in the pan worked because they were light for one thing and they were done in 11-12 sec. If they tried climibing the Grapevine here in So Cal with the throttle down, that stock line probably would have starved the bowls. Meltdown.

I think the stock line can supply roughly 150hp. It is only 5mm. All the pressure in the world doesn't create volume. 
More later.

alright, i see.

well, i'm gonna have another peek at my steering box and see about that fuel line. will let you know ;)

pay attention to how you FEED the pump... the suction side.

is it normal for the fuel line to run like mine? red circle?
what's the "inlet" that i made green for? that looks more logical for the fuel line to run through.

i'm sorry for hijacking the thread but what would be the best way to run an AN-6 line?

p.s. the line exists to the right of my gearbox.

I haven't seen that before... You're right, it should go into the frame head where you have the green circle, and exit out it left side frame horn.

I suppose we are going to get some AN-5, and run it the way the factory intended- save for the electric fuel pump and such ;)

yup, my car has some messy things of a "restoration" of 15 years ago. the fuel line actually runs underneath the carpeting somewhere. i noticed it when i put that in a few years ago. but i didn't have a clue a fuel line could be that thin.

what i just don't get is how to run it through the tunnel, say i get 10 feet of AN-6 how do i get it to the other end and not get tangled up with the throttle and clutch cable and such... let alone exit it through a tiny peek hole  ???

Access panels in the tunnel will help- if you dont already have them to stiffen up the clutch tube,  I would recommend it. I think I will run the line back to front, until I get to the forward most access panel, then just grab it and stuff it up through the hole in the frame head(?). I made these simple aluminium panels for AssHull's car today...

i see what you mean, but mine isn't quite body-off ;)

It can still be done ;)

Those tie-rods are going to receive a fresh coat, right?

You might want to consider AN-6 or -8 for feed side of pump

So why don't I make it all AN-6 then? Or does the feed side have to be larger than the outlet side?

Don't need it. It's pretty warm inside the shop.

yes the feed side should be larger.

I ran all 3/8" line from the pump to tank.  I always do overkill......don't ask me why LOL.  If anything, I make sure the suppyl side of the pump is sufficient. You don't want to starve the pump and burn it up, but I honestly think that matching the supply to your pump inlet is fine. 

This pump uses 1/8" npt ports.  I drilled them out to flow a bit better, since they adapt to #6 male AN. 
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/Hotrodvw/IMG_1827.jpg)

I ran 3/8" braided and 3/8" hard line from here to the carbs. 

zach, it doesn't look like the CB rotary accepts AN fittings, does it?

they're push fit

just got rid of my faulty fuel line. and i found the other one underneath the rubber in the green circle, cut off of course.

zach, you said it should exit in the left side frame horn? i'm trying to locate it. also, should i run a 3/8" hose all the way? isn't that quite thick? i mean i need to run it all the way and don't want it to get stuck somewhere...

cheers!

It doesn't... I still need to know what I need to mate the two together...


Yep, right out the top of the frame horn. I haven't tried running the hose yet, but it looks like the line should make it all the way through. Just make sure it is clear of the shift rod as that is the only moving part inside the tunnel.

Zach......post a pic of the pump, I may be able to have a solution for ya.

(http://www.vwparts.net/mm5/graphics/00000001/3193.jpg)

what is it eric? i'd be interested too ;)

It's not the pump I was thinking of.  I was thinking of an EFI pump.  If you're stuck w/ AN fittings, you an use an AN x barb adapter ad a 2" length of hose.......then run your AN stuff.  I can mock up something here at work, and give you a visual if needed.

I just re did my entire system. Used factory BMW 8mm hose from pump to Malpassi regulator and ABA Swedish fuel injection clamps (for Mercedes/BMW CIS inject). My feed to pump is AN-6 parker fittings

looks pretty cool pal!
still hooked up to the holley blue?

Jim, i mailed a message to your business address.
Happy Holidays.
Harry

I'm not stuck with anything yet (except now the pump has been bought), just want to put together something that works. I'll defintely be going through you for this job, so let me know what you come up with.

Here are a couple of items that might prove useful. 
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/Hotrodvw/1222081336-00.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/Hotrodvw/1222081335-01.jpg)

A short piece of hose, and AN from there on out. 

Red pump.

Now that just sounds fancy ;)

On a slightly related topic, is there anything out there that flows like a Holley blue/red pump, but isn't so god damned noisy?? I hate those things...

After a lot of research I decided to use a Mallory pump, filter & reg. I have heard that they are very quite.

pump:
http://tinyurl.com/8rw3l5


--louis

Yeah a Holley pump that is shock mounted. Try Mercedes part number 1039980111. I barely hear mine.

just a thought, but where could i order that part and any idea who it costs?

any Mercedes parts house or dealer. It's a common item (supports air cleaner housing on M103 engines in W124 cars)
can't be very expensive....

I used this...
http://www.holley.com/12-125.asp

The only time I hear my Holley fuel pump is when I flick the "on" switch. I kinda like that...If I can't hear that brrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, something's wrong. I made my own dampers for it. After the car starts, who cares? Just do what you want.

MSD makes shock mounts like those. Both in 14" stud size and 10/32.

"Back in the day" I mounted my twin Holleys (70 Challenger) on a chunk of muffler hanger rubber. The kind that looks like tire plys. Mounted them so they didn't touch the body in any way. No noise that could be heard over the engine.

Rubber mounts like Jim pictured would be way cleaner.

if you wanna stay with vw parts , you can use the mounts that they used to mount the beetle oil cooler to the front of the mark 1 gti ;)

We rubber mounted a Holley in my friends car years ago, the thing was still irritatingly loud as hell. Course it didn't have much of an interior to speak of.

that horrible irritating grinding noise is just a part of the starting proceedure .... if you dont hear it you misssed out the "start pump" part ;)

handy for trouble shooting too !!!

eg: if you can hear the pump , look to see you remembered to take the carb covers off  ;D

Kinda like launching a space shuttle or something. Stack covers off, check. Fuel pump on(wrrrr..), check. Ignition on, check. Fire, hold throttle at 2000rpm while engine warms. Good to go! Not the average street car. ;D I love it.

The only time I can barely hear my Holley red pump is when I am idling at a stop light. Otherwise all I hear is engine tunes!

i'm still trying to figure out what to do about the fuel system.

surely i can get a holley pump, a regulator and all of that. but i've got a lot of things left on the car so i wanna find a more economical way of dealing with the situation. so, i'm thinking of running an 8mm fitting on the tank with some 8mm hose to a CB rotary pump, then a fuel filter with 6.4mm (1/4") braided hose through the tunnel. and for the engine bay i'll use banjo fittings or get some fittings to feed the IDAs from the top fitting cos of possible clearance issues with the 181 fanhouse.

should that be any good?

Pushing hose through the tunnel isn't easy.  Also hose does not last forever.  I recommend you put an 8mm hard line in the tunnel.  It is not difficult, even with the body on.

Here is a nice Fitting for the stock VW Tank made by Marty Skaggs  comes in AN-6 or AN-8 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=711411

and then clamp braided hose to it?

Sorry to jump on your post Zach but there is something I wonder about fuel pump and I thought it would fit here.
Is the "built in" filter on a Facet pump(http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/facet-silver-fuel-pump-533-fst1-571-p.asp (http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/facet-silver-fuel-pump-533-fst1-571-p.asp)) enought or does it need an "extern" fuel filter like another pump?

I have a similar pump and it also came with a small filter.  I use the supplied filter between the tank and pump in conjunction w/ the screen in the tank.  I also run a larger better quality filter after the pump, before it hits the engine bay. 

I just put a piece of -6 Teflon hose through the tunnel of a "63. The teflon will not get eaten up by race gas, or new gas with the ethanol. It is also claimed to have a higher flow rate then the neoprene.

Chassis looks nice dave. Is that one of the new bus 5 speeds?

Nice set up Dave......930cv's??  Yes, the teflon hose does flow better............Teflon has "Slick'em"!!  I don't think that's a Dupont registered term.  ;D  You can run sulfuric acid through teflon.....gasohol is no big deal. 

There are plenty of ways to connect braided hose to a steel line.  Adaptors with compression fittings will do it.

That's a 4 speed.

Compression fittings?? With all of the better options out there, and compression fittings come up?

as far as mechanical joints go , some compression types are good .

They all have their place...but scare me to death in a gasoline application.  I'd consider them w/ diesel on a tractor though in the right locations.

i've used them on refineries etc. and had much nastier stuff going through than petrol ;)

i'm not talking about the copper pipe type compression fittings that you have under your sink though :D

Correct......when it comes to gas in a vehicle, I'm peticular about my fittings.  You're talking about Swagel-lok type comp. fittings.  Nice stuff, but I'll still take a flared fittings for fuels.  Just my preference.

Finally ended up running my fuel line through the tunnel. Took About 2 hours or so. I have some pics and will post them here shortly. I ended up using aluminum hard line through the tunnel and using some hose clamps to hold the fuel line against the e-brake tubes in the tunnel. Ended up working out extremely well. The .035 wall alm. tubing is very strong and rated to 25 psi. Seeing as a holley blue fuel pump puts out a max psi of 14, I figured the aluminum would be plenty.

Here are some pics of how the install ended up. I ended up using bulkhead fittings through the tunnel as well as a way to secure the line to the tunnel.

(http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o4/bsilva84/Brians%20DRKC%2067%20Bug/67bug015.jpg)

(http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o4/bsilva84/Brians%20DRKC%2067%20Bug/67bug022.jpg)

(http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o4/bsilva84/Brians%20DRKC%2067%20Bug/67bug025.jpg)
I had the fuel line exit in front of the torsion bar housing and I am going to run braided line from the fitting over the torsion housing to another bulkhead fitting on the firewall.

You'd be comfortable with a compression fitting to withstand hundreds of psi of diesel, but you're scared of 5psi of gasoline????  You sure do have a lot of unfounded paranoia.

Yep........call me stupid. gas is a bit more volitile too.   ::)  You guys can do as you like, I'll avoid them.  I see them every week through work.  I don't like them, we as a shop don't like them.  The ones we see for diesel applications are coming from the OEM, which is why they come to see us.............because they're leaking and/or failing.  It's not worth the risk to me to have gas leaking in my VW.  They tend to burn pretty well.

 ;D  ;D  ;D

Any reason to worry about AL hardline fatigue?

In this application I don't have any worry or doubt. I have secured the line solidly through the tunnel and with the bulkhead fittings at each end, the line is very solid. The only place I would have doubts is in the engine compartment area if your were only using hard line throughout the firewall and to the carbs. I would be a little worried with the vibration creating fatigue. Then again, I would be worried using steel line for that application as well. Only experience will tell. From all the research I have done, dragsters (non fuel injected), airplanes and so on use aluminum hardline for fuel and oil applications (excluding methanol and alcohol of course).  Anyone else have any experience using al hardline?

You only see the microscopic amount that fail.  People don't come to you with success stories.  If they were as unreliable as you think, the companies that manufacture the fittings would go broke.
In my former co, we used compression fittings to seal HYDROGEN gas.  Hydrogen is much more dangerous than gasoline, and we had no problems sealing 300 psi of hydrogen.  Also, hydrogen is the most difficult product to seal since it is the smallest molecule in existance.

Aluminum will work fine, but not my personal first choice. 

Like I said, it's my preference.  I do see the microscopic amount that fail, I assume there are many more out there.  Their un-reliability is only one of their issues.  IMO, comp. fittings are a quick fix, since only two wrenches are required.  OEM's will always use them.  less time on the assy line means more production.  Asfor me and my car.....I won't use them.

Of the hundreds and hundreds of them I've installed, I only had one that wouldn't seal.  Replacement fixed it.  Once they are installed and sealed, there are no reliability issues.

I'm not gonna get in a pissing match about it, it's not worth the time.  I will say this:  The failures are from work hardening or cracking right behind the ferrule.  It's not a sealing issue. 

In order for work hardening to occur, there must be continuous movement.  Since everyone here knows to strap the line down so it doesn't move, that form of failure won't occur.
If you are seeing stress cracks due to work hardening, the failure has nothing to do with the ferrule.  It is the hard line vibrating that's doing it.  Fix the real problem.

I agree to a point.  The ferrule's biting action into the wall of the tubing creates a cut, greatly increasing the risk for cracking at that area.  Regardles......I'm not gonna use 'em  Beaten to death......

hey, how's it going? Are you sure your new engine is going to require larger than the stock fuel pipe in the pan? Sarge runs a healthy 2016cc with 48's and good sized vents and jets, and his car is still stock as far as fuel system goes.
Remember too, if you are "pushing" fuel through the stock pipe (+ psi), instead of "pulling" it through (- psi) with stock pump at engine, you are not going to have a vapor lock issue... fuel will flash (boil) at a much higher temp if it is under a higher psi.

Maybe just run a small electric pump and stock line? Why go through all the trouble of re engineering everything if your motor doesn't demand beyond what the stock line will supply?

do you know the gph requirement of your engine? Needle valve size?

Hey Jim!  My set up is overkill for anything I'll ever put in it.  It's an elec. pusher pump. 

Just leave it as VW made it then.... save your time for driving it or swilling a beer.

Hi , what size and pitch is the fuel tank outlet thread? and did they change in size over the years ? mines a 54
thanks for any help.

jay

I did it all two yrs ago......3/8" front to back. 

@hotrodvw wat do you prefer for methanol?

Michael

For hose?  Parker 836 push lock hose, or Teflon/ss braided hose.

Yes but also the main feedline.I suppose it is better to run a hardline front to back instead of all hose?

Thanks for answering,

Michael

I prefer hardline, if that's not an good option, I'd go w/ the ss braided/teflon lined hose as a second option.  It's great stuff, and will last a very long time if it's not abused.

Don't know the thread size, but the tube changed in 75 for FI cars from 5mm to 8mm.

Don't go confusing people with common sense Jim.  Everyone knows that a stock 5mm fuel line (19mm^2) is not enough to feed a pair of 2mm needle valves (3.1mm^2).

Jay, I believe it's 20mmx1.0, but don't quote me on that. 

Well, I'm not trying to piss the guy's fire out (or anybody else's), but I hate to see guys wringing their hands in angst over parts and work they may not HAVE to do. A situation that I've been in too many times, and I see that runs rampant in this hobby. Just because a stock part isn't "shiny" or made of billet unobtanium doesn't mean its not up to the task.
Again, I think a pretty healthy 2 liter street application can be fed adequately by the stock line IF a pusher pump is used. 150-160hp is probably where the line should be drawn. But again, remember, how the car is used matters probably MORE than cc.
My friend Kyle ran a 2016cc for over 150,000 real street miles (only removing motor for clutch) on the stock fuel pipe. While it was not a drag motor, it was what I would consider a practical, reliable daily driver (90.5x78, cam like Engle 120, 7.8:1, d-ported heads, 44IDF Webers). No way that engine would have gone over 150K had it been leaned out due to fuel delivery issues.
Look at other production cars with similar cc and intake arrangement... roughly 500cc per cyl, one throttle per cylinder... I don't think these cars are running a 1/2" fuel pipe to the fuel rail @ carbs.

cool thanks ,and thanks bruce .

Jim, I agree, and never took it in a wrong way from you.  I always do overkill.........dunno why.  I had the materials, and the know how......so I did it.   :D

 ;D

I have an old friend that was the same way. He'd look in a catalog and scan for the "biggest" and always order whatever it was. I think he'd plumb a Holley Blue and -8 in to feed a 40HP.

And there's absolutley nothing wrong with that.   :D

CB sell thes adapters for stock tank to -6 or -8

http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1709

(http://cbperformance.com/catalogimages/3288.jpg)

yeah, but....   he'd do that with everything... cams, cranks, carbs...etc. Sometimes that doesn't work.
And when others didn't follow suit (me) he'd get opinionated and butt hurt.
I'd always hear about how "that's not gonna work"

oh really?

HE HE......yeah, we VW'ers tend to get butt hurt easily. 

Here is a nice Fitting for the stock VW Tank made by Marty Skaggs  comes in AN-6 or AN-8 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=711411

OMG...Dead Horse............

OMG! OMG! OMG!   ::)

Sometimes......redundancy happens. 

does hard line isolate the smell of fuel or not?

i've got all rubber hoses with -6 AN/JIC parker fittings from the fuel tank to the engine bay and a hardline running through the tunnel but after a month of being on the road my car STINKS of fuel, it is unbearable!
this was one of the 2 reasons i couldn't attend DFL 402, it's a recipe for instant headache.

with the electronic fuel pump i now always run the engine until the mixture runs lean because of hitting the fuel pump switch, so there shouldn't be any fuel in the carbs. i've got an electronic fuel sender (are there caps available?) but the fuel comes from underneath the rear seat not the trunk...

i'm thinking of running 4 meters of S/S teflon line through the tunnel instead of the hardline, there's always the possibility that the hardline has cracked or was never in perfect condition...

does anyone have any experience with S/S teflon fuel hose? i'm assuming i need the trick blue/red anodised fittings instead of parker fittings? though i have no idea how to assemble these...

please let me know, i'd like to be back on the road... ;)

Very interesting! I would say that a rubber hose should NOT smell anything unless you got a leak. I struggled with the same thing last season and ended up replacing my steel braided (and expensive) fuel hose and took it for granted that I must have punctured it.

that's what i'm thinking with the hard line. perhaps it cracked when i shoved it into the tunnel?
only thing i can think of...

any experience with Torque UK by the way?

Diederick.......
   If you'll read up the page some more, I am a fan of the SS/Teflon hose.  It DOES NOT use the aluminum AN fittings though.  You'll need to use the proper fittings for the hose, and where ever you purchase it, they should have the fittings as well.  As always, you'll need to secure it properly to avoid chafing.  Eric

the website mentions special -6 teflon fittings:
(http://i.ebayimg.com/05/!BRUP5o!B2k~$(KGrHgoH-DsEjlLl)w!eBJ9Z45O6hw~~_12.JPG)

you mean secure a grommet or so in the left fork where the hoses exits?

i'm hoping this will solve my problems. i checked an there's quite a fuel fume coming out of the tunnel where i opened the inspection plate...

when i installed my aluminum fuel pipe i didn't manage to use the original location into the tunnel (under the fuel tank) because of the angle.
but i figure i could do so when installing the s/s hose. although it might not be easy. does anyone have some advice?

IMO, starting at the rear it'll be very hard to run the hose through the original front hole in the tunnel.
starting at the front it will be difficult having it exit in the left fork through the hole...

just wondering, any advice?

sjees, still busy with that f*king  fuel line? get it done  ;D f*king drive  :o ;)

(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/420358.jpg)
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/420356.jpg)
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/420357.jpg)
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/420355.jpg)

I installed a 3/8" Aluminium hard-line with AN8 Fittings. I use AN8 (-8) braided fuel line to connect the tank to the filter to the Holley red pump and then from the hard line to the carburetor.
To prevent fatigue breaking I installed several clamps along the line. Not visible on the pictures I installed a protective cover in the front portion of the line to protect it from flying rocks etc. I did not try to install the line inside the tunnel. I want to be able to see leaks and to have easy access to threaded couplings. Car manufacturers run their fuel lines also outside the chassis underneath the car.

I wouldn't bother installing a larger Fuel line if the engine has less than 160 HP. I would keep it simple and install a very quiet rotary Pierburg or Carter (CB Performance) Pump. They flow far enough fuel. Pressure is not the concern unless you are running EFI. It is just volume that matters.

In my case, my engine is a 1915cc with a T3 Turbo and a Holley. It is pushing around 210 HP depending on boost pressure. On boost it requires a lot of fuel to keep the A/F ratio in a rich and cool range. Fuel starvation would generate a piston melt down… The original fuel line is used as a boost sensing line to my boost controller and gauge.

Running a hose on the full length of the car other than a Teflon lined hose is not recommended. Too much drag in a hose. Same applies for front oil coolers. Keep the hose amount small and use hard lines where possible.

My 2 cents

Cheers
Dom

thanks for the great advice

Use a fish tape, like that which is used in commercial electric wiring, or a stiff wire.  Feed it thru to the exit you're using, tape the hose to it, and pull it back thru.  That fitting looks like similar to what I use, but I cannot say for sure w/o having it in my hand.  Here's mine:

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/Hotrodvw/IMG_1809.jpg)

6years later quote  ;D

Who runs a AN8 fitting on a stock tank? I've tried, but no way to fit a 90degree fitting between fitting and  the  framehead. Need to space the tank up, but not that keen to do that. Bought a 90degree angle fitting (no bend) but that was also no bueno.

An8 both ways by the way, and an6 from regulator to the carbs.

Empty your tank.  Tap the outlet of the stock bung on the tank for 1/4"npt.  Install a -8AN x 1/4" Male npt 90 deg. adapter and be done.  Much shorter than what you were thinking....and it will clear. 

Good advice!

Will try that  :)

Yes, and a -10 and even -12, just welded a -8 onto tank where stock outlet is, with a -8 90 it is tight but never had to prop the tank up at all

cheers Richie

This is a aluminium fitting on the stock "neck", so it quite deep.

The ones I have used like that are made with an angle built in so the fitting clears

Have you got a link?

Not that keen on welding a 48 year old tank  :o

http://www.anprofittings.com/

5 rows down on right, VW tank fittings :)

That'll probably work! Straight fitting from CB does not  >:(

What doesn't work about the CB fitting?
Lee

When the AN8 CB fitting is fitted to the stock outlet on my 67 tank, the 90 degree AN8 fitting (mounted on the CB fitting) hits the framehead, before the tank sits completely down. That means I need a 90degree fitting that is "shorter" or spacers to space the tank upwards.

AN6 is no problem, but I want AN8 to the big fuel filter I have fitted.


Erlend

Weird, my cb fitting, an8 works with a 90 degree fitting in my oval

Lee

Maybe the fuel tank in a 67 is deeper?