The Cal-look Lounge

Hi guys,

I'm wondering which sealants and loctites I need to have to build my engine? I thought of loctite 290 for all threads? Torco assambly lube to lube bearings etc, and Curril K2 for sealing the case halves and pistons and heads.

Did I forget anything?

Thanks!

loctite 573 ?

i'll show you what i have this sunday.
i just need a bit of PTFE loctite and then i've got all i need.

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_nKjezkastzY/Sa7qG7Z-TsI/AAAAAAAAAzM/mjSmJ0YgzaE/s720/DSC00508.JPG)

not in pic:
+ Loctite 290 green formula (very strong threadlocker)
+ Hylomar Aerograde sealant

that looks like a lot of different tubes.
where do you use all those for ???

it's the white tube i still need.

use this on case halves, oil pump gaskets, cylinder bases, deep sump to case...

i got that one  :)
but if one should use that case halves, what's the curil k2 for?

so, no paper gaskets in the spots like oil pump and deep sump-to-case?

you can use either. I've had dry motors using either or. The Curil is less expensive, and easier to clean off at a later date.

so, curil at case halves applied with a brush? and the rest with 574?

hi...what kind of sealant can i use tu seal fuel pump bakelite?  over the apper gasket.... ???

Hylomar Aerograde (blue)

thank u! i hope it exist in Italy (i'll search!)...maybe here i can find easily a loctite product...

Hi .

574 Loctite is very good .
Hylomar for sealing fuel manifold gasket
RTV 106 or 159 between exaust pipe and heads or on turbo .(never use with fuel) .

http://cgi.ebay.com/Silicon-rubber-adhesive-sealant-GE-RTV-106-%5Bred-color%5D_W0QQitemZ200311247908QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090217?IMSfp=TL090217113003r5160

.

i used the 579 as well and i am very happy with the result. clean and dry. like Jim said, maybe a little hard to remove afterwards, but seals perfect on flat surfaces. i glue my gaskets on the valvecovers with this as well and i haven't had problems.

Don't forget a can of Gasgacinch.  I like this for valve cover gaskets as it makes doing them the next time around much easier. 

I just found out this morning that Permatex bought out Loctite and their products, and dropped the Loctite name. So if you're looking for the Loctite barand, you wont find it!

Permatex bought out Loctite back in 1999. It would be foolish if they just now dropped the Loctite name.

No kidding? Well, it's true. The parts store I was at this morning had a whole wall of Loctite products, but there was no Loctite name, just Permatex. Packages still look the same.

This is what I have in my tool box, which one is best to close halves cases? I have use the loctite aviation with good result but maybe one is better than the others?

if any of you guys get wurth products from germany then theyre grey sealer which is called wurth grey is very good for most applications.

also Wuerth has a nice blue non hardening engine sealant. When I inspected the tube I found that it is made by Hylomar for them (or under licence):-)

thats interesting.wurth sell some great products so the hylomar must be pretty darn good.

Hylomar Universal Blue was originally developed in the 1960's by Rolls-Royce Plc to help seal against synthetic lubricants that were used in early jet engines. This original Hylomar product was commonly known as either PL32 L, M or H (Light, Medium or Heavy grade). Some users were also familiar with the older Rolls-Royce internal part number of SQ32. However, per various changes in the Rolls-Royce requirements, the PL32 designation was removed in the mid 1990's and the product was renamed to "Universal Blue". The PL32 designation is now associated with the newer "Aerograde PL32M" or "Aerograde Ultra PL32A" formulations.

there is a good article about engine sealing in the hot VWs special "all about performance engines 2". perhaps Speedwell can scan it in ?

Never again Hylomar. I use Gascacinch, Permatex Aviation sealant (case halves) or grey Curil, and red Curill for top and bottom of cylinders. All these are easy to remove with thinner. PS, the Loctite brand stays as is overhere in Europe.

I used the 574 loctite and it works great.

Hylomar may have been a good choice back in the day.

Make your life easy use Dirko S  . Its the best  :)

I agree that Hylomar is very hard to clean off the parts. It is no hardening so messy. But it seals perfectly even if you use a light smear of it. I had a 40 horse engine rebuilt in mid 80s and sealed with Hylomar, went ofer 100 000 miles without a single drop. So I´m a firm believer.

Also jake Raby considers hylomar as the best sealing product for his engines so it can´t be that bad.

You use sealant between the head and cylinder?

About a zillion Saturns are sealed with this stuff. Seals well and removes without too much effort. Handles gaps up to .015 in.  Loctite 518
works equally....but sets up faster on aluminum and brass, if that's an issue. Personally I used 515 almost daily for 10 yrs. and can't fault
the product. Although after looking at the data from Loctite the 515 is better suited to trannys, and 574 for engine cases. At any rate we
don't have to use aviation permatex 3d (?) anymore. Which we referred to as "dog shit in a tube" some 40 years ago  :D

For Gods sake, never build your motor with this stuff!   >:( >:(

"build the motor first and then cover it in that sh1t!"  ;D

In all seriousness, I've used Sikaflex (often used for fixing in windows!) for sealing pushrod tubes, especially the wide mouth ones where the seal is stretched over the wide end. Just a very thin smear is all that is needed. As opposed to the bodywork on many of the cars I've owned where previous owners have used bath sealant around welds... :o

I use the black weatherstrip glue to glue gaskets into stock valve covers... works killer!

I use the Permatex Aviation Sealer for that. I've had the same gaskets and covers on 3 motors in the past 14 years and they still don't leak.

Agreed!  Unless you're the flat rate mech @ the VW dealer trying to get that stuff off.
Personally I've used it on cheapo cast valve covers when I didn't want a come/back.

While we're on the subject of valve cover gskts, I'll risk being redundant and pass along
this tip from the old guys to the young guys..... If you're forced to use dry/shrunken v/c
gskts. Slip them over the 'outside' of the valve cover while you're doing your service work.
After an hour or so install as usual, works just as well on the 356/912.  ;)