The Cal-look Lounge

Today I received my CB equalizer pulley today,and tried how it goes on the crank.

it is a foged crankshaft,chinese forging like others 300 dollar cranks out there

Withouth the woodrof key on the crankshaft,I tried how it goes on,and it only slides on the crank.Now is this good or bad ::)

It is supposed to be tight on the crank,and is supposed to be tapped on the crank right?

Please let me know what you guys think,and what is solution for curing this problem if there is any.I wouldn't want to change my crank again :o

that's a CB pulley? Wow... looks just like a Gen_ B_r_

the pulley must be a tight press on crank, or once running and warm, it will begin to wallow on nose of crank and take out ID of case.

sorry

so what should I do,buy another crank ???no solution to repair it

maybe add material to the pulley,and machine the id of the pulley down again? ::)

Could Loctite flange sealer be a solution?

Yes. I'm thinking Loctite 620 will work for you. I would use a very small amount, and see how that works. If you use too much, you might have yourself a 1 piece unit :D

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/620-EN.PDF (http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/620-EN.PDF)

Can you post a picture of how far it goes onto the crank? so we have a better idea of how bad it is,i have to heat the real  pulleys that they are a copy of to get them on properly,

cheers richie

Oh its the pulley not the crank that is the problem usually with those

That is a copy of a Gene Berg pulley.  The Berg pulleys are a very close tolerance fit to a stock VW crank.  Did you try it on a stock crank to see how it fit.  The pulley ID could be oversize or the crank could be slightly undersize.  See how it fits on a stock VW crank.

Yes I have tried to fit it to my old 69mm german crank,and it needs to be tapped to go on,doesen't want to go on easy

Guys here are some pictures

one more

the nose of crank can be knurled by a machine shop

A bugpack 88 had to be knurled (by Berg's) at timing gear area back about 15 years.

i had to look up a word "knurled" in a dictionary  :P

but what is done in the "knurling" process? :)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling

"Knurling may also be used as a repair method: because a rolled-in knurled surface has raised-up areas surrounding the depressed areas, these raised areas can make up for wear on the part. In the days when labor was cheap and parts expensive, this repair method was feasible on pistons of internal combustion engines, where the skirt of a worn piston was expanded back to the nominal size using a knurling process. As auto parts have become less expensive, knurling has become less prevalent than it once was, and is specifically recommended against by performance engine builders."

Thanks Mr. Jim for the explanation

So,If I get it knurled,It would be possible to get the pulley off only few times,before the knurling shatters,gets thinner

will try loctite first

Ah those chinese cranks... ??? :-\

I have another Idea

a friend of mine used to get his crankshaft hard chrom plated,when his rod bearings burned the crank

It is an industrial chroming method,for crankshafts,to repair the journals,so it might as well repair the pulley snout on the crank.

I have the same pulley and have used it for two years,mine slides on quite easy too.Ive had no problems and the engine has been completely stripped twice for upgrades,as long as you put a little thread lock on the bolt it should be fine,
just to note once slid on mine has no freeplay side to side cheers ben

no,I don't have any side play

good to know

thanks

Zvonimir, use a really large and quality beleville washer under the bolt, I removed mine from an industrial engine.

Thanks Jan,

Will get one from VW Parts or elswhere.

I see that the stock one looks kind'a small

Thanks for the info.

VW used BIG washers in their industrial engines with dual pulleys (for second generator etc) to take an additional weight and loat of this dual pulley syystem I believe. It is like 60 mm dia.

IMO, you don't have a problem.
I take sandpaper to all my pulleys so they slip on and off by hand without tools.  Just make sure the bolt is tight.
Although, I don't use those heavy boat anchor pulleys.

Cal look,
i had exactly the same problem:
bought a scat pulley and this was tight...

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,1374.30.html

at the time, i didnt want to take the risk..

cheers, Peter

I do the same, but I wouldn´t do that on the boat anchor style pulleys because of the added weight and strain in the key....

before this one I had a scat pulley,and it also went withouth tools on the crank.

I will find a way withouth spending too much money to fix this problem

Thanks guys,