The Cal-look Lounge

Hi everyone,

so first let me short introduce myself. That personal aspect comes to short in my view in the unpersonal webworld...
My name is Felix and I come from germany and am a member of the DFL vw club
www.dflvwclub.com
I am 31 years old married and have a 19 months old daughter and work in the developing department for oil & vaccum pumps at VW till 2008. As english is not my native language please forbear me with some spelling and lettering.

First I will LOOK back:
I got my 67 notch in 1999 (man is it really sooooo long ago) and restored it for about 3 years. The first mod was resto-cal with stock 54PS and then with 45PS as the 54PS seized. No I was not that fat the notch was soo low.
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/62623.jpg)

Than a good friend and now club mate Tobi borrowed me KS cal look bible. I read it 2times in a row with a dictonary at the side as my english wasn`t that good way back. The 1776cc came in 2003 were I attended at the first DAS Drag day. A meeting that really set directions in my interests within the VWscene.

(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/122191.jpg)
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/122189.jpg)
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/159929.jpg)

The fuch`s came in 2004. That year I even got a proud member of the DFL club at the DFL May cruise madness. After that there came some other projects but I never stoped modifing the notch or interest in the LOOK.
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/127703.jpg)
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/156527.jpg)

There were some minor changes and some things to fix. A broken gearbox at DDD (I think 3 or 4) were I didn`t arrive at the c.tree as I seized my diff at the FIRST burn out  ::)
The study for about 4 1/2 years even took the time and money away.

The IDA`s and some other mod`s came in 2009 which got me a best of 15.0sec at the 1/4mile with 35,5x32mm Valves...I think the first outing was about 17,9 sec (same engine with milder ports, 40 IDF, and other cam/rockers and milder CR)
The 1776 dropped a valve at the end of 2009 whitch was a bit sad as I couldn`t attend DDD that year.
(http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9169.0;attach=30488;image)
(http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9169.0;attach=30491;image)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U54QggnnyG0

More infos: http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,9169.0.html (http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,9169.0.html)

But back to the main theme: 2.2 liter!

I started to collect parts for that one till 2004. The first part was a 78.8mm Scat crank I bought from Tobi. At that time I was a fresh student and the money for that crank should have gone into a new washing machine as my parents gave it to me for that. But there was a washing center around the block so the decission was clear as water to me. Not so to my parents... But hey, we all have to prioritize  ;)

In the next time I will fill this topic with pic`s and infos about the building. What happend and what will. First only the base and a stroker should have a good base. A new mexican FI case mainly filled behind 3rd cylinder. More to come...

Best greetings,
Felix

Nice car 8)
Not enough T3`s around!
Cheers,
Kev

Hello , good luck ! Hope the Bielstein dampers work fine on your car ;-)
Just started to collect parts for a new engine for my car... So maybe it will be ready until the end of the season this year.
Greets from Dortmund , Carsten

Great 213th post, Felix! ;)

Damn, I nearly forgot the look of your notch with chromies.

Good times!

Tobi

cool post felix, thanks!!
you've got a great looking notchback and i love the way you detail your engines, very clean.

:)

Hi Folks,

thank`s for the kind comments.
@Tobi: Yes good times back then
@Carsten: Those Billstein work perfect much better than the konis as they have pre pressure like all gas shocks. Very good for back setup.

(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/160667.jpg)

So here are the engine details:

2187cc flat tin:
CR=10,7, Deckhight:1,2mm (1mm Copperring/ 0,2 deckhight without), Mexican FI case, Scat 78,8mm Volksracer crank, CB 5,4 rods, 94mm Mahle barrels& pistons (for 82mm crank), 044 CNC round port heads 42x37,5 with Manley valves CB double springs and CroMo retainers, Shrick lash caps,Thorsten Pieper lifters, Gene berg CrMo Puschrods, CB 1,4 rockers, 26mm Shadek oilpump, origi. flywheel lightened, Kennedy stage I, daikin disk, short manifolds with switched flanges, 48 IDA, 009 pointless (maybe a 010 which needs some love), welded and balanced fan, Racetrim deep sump, modified typ-3 linkage.

First step the combustion chambers.
They come very rought out of the package. First I removed material at the outer valvespots. Increased the valve to "wall" distance. Blue marks are for reference and were to stop as the fischer book teaches. That even worked good at my 1776.
Next step was smoothing with some dummy valves that were cut back at the edges. Than a decent polish. The next step is bringing them to exact volume and polish decent again.

that is excellent work felix!! did you use a dremel? how did you get the chambers polished that nicely?

looks very good felix!
nice dedication to the building of the engine!

i just wonder if the highly polishing combustion chamber is good for the burning and combustion of the fuel mixture.
something inside me tells me that some roughness in chamber is good for the combustion, perhaps in a way that it helps the mixing of the mixture.

one more question of inquiry, how do you exactly measure the cc in the chamber? i tried to do it myself with a plat transparent plastic plate that is placed on the site where the cylinder matches the head, drill a hole into the plastic plate and fill it with tinted liquid(ink diluted in water). i fill it with a syringe to measure the cc that is injected into the chamber. but in some way i can't determine when the chamber is completely filled..

does anyone have any helpful comments?

(http://www.toolmax.nl/imgsize.php?h=120&img=images/2615050232.jpg)

And then to a more fine grit, and after that with the cloth one. and a bit of polish adhesive

Forget the dremel and use a good air ''dremel''

Hi Felix

Great Projekt. Hope we see us at DDD or Bitbug? for a new race.

Dirk

hi felix - do u leave this chamfer around the chamber as it is?
I'll probably remove mine as it is still in the heads and leds to a fine slit when the cylinders are fitted.

but looking sweet.

cheers max (germany)

@Dirk: Yes Bitbug with DFL402 will happen looking forward to see you there! Details to DFL 402 in near future.
@ Max Heads are now cut deeper and will be fine tuned further.

I used Dremel with various tools and a handdriver for most of the work.


Is that really so? Interesting...
To me the turbulences happen in the gassers, the ports, when the gasses pass the valves and when the quench effect of the piston happens.
A smooth surface (no need for a mirrow polish) minimizes the surface, and to me that`s a good idea cause over the surface you loose heat of the combustion-cycle and you want to let the heat in there for the burning process. But I maybe wrong...

One exact method of cc`ing your heads correctly is with a "Bürette" fine scale. I got mine (used) very cheap at e-bay and made a support for it. Before I used an injection with a 0,5ml scale but I had to charge twice. Not very accurate...I use a visible plate with only one hole, grease at the contact faces and water with a dip of soap (to break surface tension). When a bubble in some area occures yust slowly fill more water in and it will go to 95% away. I need to cc and match the heads in the next days cause they were cut deeper. I will post some detail phots then.

One thing that is even spot on is how much the spark extends into the cumbustion chamber. When mounted without spacer they extent way too much even a small area of the thread extenses. I will use a cooper spacer between spark/head.
I have seen a watercooled turbo engine that burned away sparks for breakfast that exented to much. The middle electrode yust melted away. After some set`s we used sparks (same heat range) that were flush= Problem solved.

I opened up the cooling chanels in the heads and added some holes for more air flow around exhaust area. The fin`s are even smothed.

more pix

Opened at the top closed at the botom by a selfmade alu deflector.

Mostly of the head work was done last year.It is really intersting how much work/time goes into the heads. And I only did the basics. So here in short the work on the heads.

Bare CNC round ports:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4443447631_5f5f4b6d7a.jpg)

finished:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4444186822_45d9c5b750_o.jpg)

I have ssen many self made heads that weren`t cutted at the tops. You want to get the valve visible.Always work in the direction towards the valve.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4444187014_d8c5de4a82_o.jpg)

matching manifolds (later more to the mainfolds):
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4443447541_3b4a7e9fa4.jpg)

exhaust ports open slightly towards the header (1 5/8) opened/radiused after seat and smothed port to seat. That smoothing even happened at the inletport and is essential... Exhaust valve guide will be cut to the lenght of inlet in the next days.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4443447693_735a370db0.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4443447289_594f2013b2.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4438332943_31f7b22d79.jpg)

Stuff I am using (+Dremel but the cheap air drill is much more efficent):
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2684/4443416163_78386f39ff_o.jpg)

I always wanted a oil return line at the 3/4cyl. head (as many know there is a amount of oil forced up in the head cause of the clockwise rotation of the engine/cranktrain)
What better moment then do it now. NPT to AN. A Z-bended alu line will connect the head to the case.
 
Stand-drillmachine gives good support for cutting straight. Rotated/cutted in with a wrench
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4438342993_2d9c6f4e87.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4438343347_3dc35b235a.jpg)
shorted & drilled at the inside
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4438343431_15a15c1e3e.jpg)

pushrodseat was extended to WBX seat (by wittkuhn-tuning) to use the CSP/Jaycee pushrodtubes 100% leak free (they use WBX seal at the head)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4444186556_4796d9e56f.jpg)
 

Hi Felix,

nice to see you 're building a new powerplant for your nice ride. Your work looks spot on.
I still remember the first time I saw your car. Just had to take a picture...

(http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/ss101/DevinckeWim/meetingspa200411.jpg)

(http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/ss101/DevinckeWim/meetingspa200410.jpg).

Greetz
Wim

Nice work Felix! Your heads look great! Is there a DFL 402 this year? We should have a beer or two.. or more..  :P

read his signature jesse ;)
5 and 6 june, a very unfortunate date for me.

and yes, show us more felix! some awesome work it is you do by yourself!

Thank`s guys!

@wim: Cool haven`t seen that pic for a decade. The satin gloss difference really makes it. Thank ya for posting! That was at Spa 2004. The weekend before we were at DDD2 and stayed the week between in belgium and had some nice days with some trips in B.

@Jesse: DFL402 for sure.Two or more? more! ;)

Manifolds:
As the typ-3 engine compartment hasn`t got that much room at the sides I needed to switch the flanges at IDA short manifolds. I didn`want to widen the opening.
An other option would have been to buy Becker or GB switch manifolds. But I wanted to have some old one`s and found a pair really cheap at the samba. So the direction was given. It`s the same molding as racetrim/DDS but without the name.

DDS style  ;D
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4030/4449117570_236eedc5f7.jpg)

First raw then fine sanded the contact faces to the head/gasser on a glass plate for good flatness
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4448339349_8748f2e78e.jpg)

here you see the flange positon problem@my 1776:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2779/4449152934_c3ba3aa3d3.jpg)

much moore room ( at the end I only had to cut a bit of the outer lip)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2804/4448376195_432911a171.jpg)

I got a drawing about where the holes of the flanges are from JHU:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4448345183_99f7abc68d.jpg)

Then I made a plate with both flange positions (4holes each barrel) and a fixing device to find the angle and positon after cuting and for a good welding support.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2687/4439112132_5b33f6f086_o.jpg)

cut cut cut...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4439115264_07b5070a35.jpg)

Welded (not done by me) in the fixture. After the pic I sandblasted them to get the rough finish back
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2801/4448341143_3a19bc9387.jpg)

I even cutted many material at the inside of the manifold. You can`t yust match the flange area to head you need to matcj the complete lenght. A good thing when using short one`s.
I straighted the ports and worked the bend a bit out. Next time I will pre weld before I do this cause I got to the outside on 3 spots. And then the welding is much more difficult then before cause the material around is to thin...

next stop: case

Great write up Felix. Looks fantastic work on the heads....

Thank ya Kaeferboy! Hope they even perfom fantastic  ;D
On it goes with the case (AS 21-FI).The work was done at the beginning of this year.

Debbured and clearanced for 78.8 crank. As it is the first cleared out case for more stroke I had to look where to remove and how muche neede to go. So checking, cutting,checking,cutting... eats up much time.
Deburring was a major work as those mexican/bras. cases have much burr on them. I also removed the Studs on the other casehalve and loctided them in again. The "window" between the cylinders was extended a bit and smoothed.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4439109058_6f3bf44b5e_o.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4439118356_cb1d247003.jpg)

Extended oil channels at the middle cam bearing (on both halves) for more oilflow to the opposite lifters
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4438339375_ffa3abb86e.jpg)

Opened up a bit
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2740/4438331885_d50fdd39f7.jpg)

As those Engle cam`s come razor sharp out of the box I champfered the edges a bit.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2803/4439108874_accbe0a2c0_o.jpg)

Now the first test-assembling of parts could happen to see what needs to be modified how things go together and so on..

Adjusting cam-endplay to 0,05mm.Before I fine grinded the faces on my well loved glassplate it was way to stiff with the double cam bearings (tang remove on one half)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4438331969_c7fa8b94d0_o.jpg)

Thorsten Pieper lifters "made in germany"  8)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2712/4439118730_fdb7f11008.jpg)

Moddified the bearings as berg suggested (I even have seen this mod at factory made BMW boxer engines)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2804/4438336117_5864c11e09_o.jpg)

One word to the main bearings. Use Kolbenschmidt (left) if you could get as the have the 360° oiling and not just point oiling as the mahles (right)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4439115392_b7aa28f7a3.jpg)

First get together
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4439119180_bae6c1f211.jpg)

I am using Magnum straight cuts and CB 5.4 rods

Hi Felix,
very nice work......that is what we like and want to see ;)

I hope we see us in Hannover....!?
Nice lifter..... ;) ;)

Greetings Thorsten

mmm as always great work and always looking for the best details and general care of parts.

Hey Mr. Pieper!
Nice to see you here! I will be in Hannover but sadly the notch will be to 90% not be ready till the May cruise madness at the 30th.

On with the case:
I puled the plugs (the only one I let in the case was the notched plug at the bearing next to the pulley) to get ALL chips out. Otherwise I can`t image how you could be secure the all the derbish is out...
I made myself a puller using some scrap like a worn out oval mastercyl. and some stuff. Drilled in the plug made a fitting thread and pulled the plug. Worked out very nice.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2788/4439115144_4677bc4217.jpg)

Pluged even the oil cooler as I am not using it and want it leak proof:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4438343875_ee73a9fdbb.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2741/4439121446_dc4b2ea480.jpg)

Another big advantage of the top plugs is that you could pre fill the gallerys with oil before the first start! No nervous looking at the oil light...

I will use the CSP AN Adapter to get oil in the case (I used a little bit wider O-Ring not the shown/mounted one). The small hole at the regulater piston (to cooler) is even closed to secure that there happens no leckage.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2804/4439115488_9f85c8abf0.jpg)

I flated the Nut faces to get a good contact surface with the cutter extension I made me. I will use a slightly bigger washer and the 15mm wrench nuts normaly for the cylinder heads. This will get a good contact faceand loosening secure.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4439121322_e7060695a9.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4438343553_8a508574b5.jpg)

One word to the oil pressure regulator you want to use the orig. otherwise you have nearly a 0,1mm wider gap which causes leackage...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4439114452_97a23ee9fd.jpg) (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2723/4438336859_9e8f5930fc_o.jpg)

Back to the oil regulator: Even the screw in plugs for regulation will effect the oil pressure. The Bugpack one on the right will give you a lower pressure level. Both left are original VW
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4438336759_b5f2e9598d.jpg)

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2731/4438336639_51908b578d.jpg)

That could be compensated with a repro regulator spring (left) or better a shimed original:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4439114562_39bc846035.jpg)

Good things to play around later to find a good pil pressure level. I want to set it at about 4-4,5bar/100°C Öltemperatur.

back to the big boys...
I notched the rods a bit. Next time I would not do it in the middle I have seen that pauter etc. does it outermiddle later. But it should work ok so. I checked the weight of all rods and they were very accurate so I didn`t touch them.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2560/4458325066_9caa110118.jpg)

The flywhell has lost some weight due to at trip to Wittkuhn tuning. But don`t worry it looks lighter than it is as he didn`t remove material behind the cluth which is good for a cool cluth. The openings even help to get the heat out. Very nice work.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4439119950_7eb91ac298.jpg)

Finding the real OT:
I did it with a dial indicator. Point it straiht on the 1st cylinder then turn the engine clockwise. There comes a spot were the indicator stays on a number for a little moment while you could turn the engine then it falls again. Try to set that flat point to zero. Rotate the engine clockwise again and stop if the needle is 0,1mm before zero and make a point/line at your flywheel. Rotate again and as the needle comes back even make a point/line 0,1mm after OT. Sketch a line between the both lines and you got the exact OT. I made me a simple holder with an needle to get the points right.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2736/4458325164_6edea56624.jpg)

Then came the cylinders. I seted the cylinders to one level and checked it with a straightedge. I had to correct on both sides. The taller cylinders were carefully grinded down to one level at the well loved glass plate ;) I find that step important to secure that the head could seal 100% against the cylinder.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4500418651_57c8c79251_o.jpg)

Then the deck height were corrected to one level with a depht dialgauge which I got cheap at e-bay. The lower deck heights were corrected to the heigher one`s by grinding down the pistons on you know on what  ;) I removed the piston rings and taped the pistons that they sit straight in the cylinder otherwise you ruin your cylinders and rings with all the cheking grinding cheking...The highest difference was at about 0,12mm. Now deck height is 0,26-0,25mm on all as I will use 1mm cooper rings.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4500418575_02a67e061a_o.jpg)

After that time consuming job the pistons were brought to one weight level
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4501053478_4d8f475a6c_o.jpg)

Wow felix. U really put some knowledge into this build.

cheers max

Thank ya Max! Und echt lässige Bedalatschen  ;D
Here we go again...
Here is a problem I had before with the 3rd Cylinder. It didn`t seal against the case.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4013/4439112704_7d360a1acb.jpg)
Those spots were even "dremeled" a bit back to give the studs a bit more clearance.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4439112520_16a2b2d32e.jpg)


The cylinders were cut back at the outer diameter and 1,4mm in the height to get a near a 1,2mm deck height.
That way I got a very narrow engine as I wanted. It`s as wide as my 1776...
Now that was a cool moment.First long block test:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2579/4438335279_7ac89a2932.jpg)

Checked the cam lift before:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2747/4438342877_1a1e580397.jpg)
dummy valve springs to make things easier:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4438342489_4f89e37747.jpg)
Setting valve geometry:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2792/4438342723_0bca320137_o.jpg)
Cheking lift at the valve:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4438342627_2d1c5f5ecb.jpg)
I came up with a 1.46 ratio with the CB rockers (044 heads)

I went thru this procedre 2 times.First with the FK87 and then with the FK10.
The FK87 gave to less coil bind distance (1,4mm) That was even a major point I went with the FK10 which gave me about 2mm distance.
I could have changed the valve springs/valves and maybe the retainer and so on but I wanted to go with the stuff I had on the bench. And I think the FK10 will match the engine concept very nice.

I cut back the seperator sheet tin behind the oil cooler as I am not using one.
And even closed the window at the 3rd cyl. Weldings aren`t really showable as I was a way to lazy to remove all the paint around the window. Anyhow it will not be visible and smothed with filler.On some points I need to cut corners  ;)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/4439114070_b31fa98c3d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4032/4438336471_ea9d2a1a16.jpg)

As I like the orig. look I went with an dummy oil cooler:

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4439113108_635bae8bf0.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4439113240_3462d6ca61.jpg)
Oilholes under the cooler are closed with NPT plugs...

Looking if everything fits good:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4438336011_bf5bbbf6a7.jpg)
And modifing the deflector tin. For the base I went with a singleport deflector tin.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4438335875_35854a0d7e.jpg)

All the other tin was even mounted and cheked.
Then tear down and painting ithe case BLACK.I really like natural mag cases in an upright engine but not in an flat engine...
I painted it thin with VHT engine enamel which needed to be burned in for 1/2 hour at 100°C in an oven. Luckily the case fited in my oven.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4438344313_8a4b6a1da3.jpg)

The cylinder were painted with high temperature paint and the paint was burned in the oven in 3 steps. After the last step at 280°C the cylinders went blue inside???
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2788/4438344451_7608a5b74d.jpg)

My knowled is that a blue effect happens at 400°C+ and then the metall gets a bit harder.
I have no exlenation for this colour change and how it will effect sealing of the piston rings. Maybe some of you have?
Cheers!

awesome work felix! this is one great thread. :)
i love matt black engine cases, where did you get the paint?

Hi Diederick,

cool that you like the work done.
You can get that stuff at e-bay or at mike`s & franklins (US-parts)
http://cgi.ebay.de/VHT-SP130-Motorlack-hitzefest-288-schwarz-28-00-1l_W0QQitemZ320513398717QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r?hash=item4aa01657bd
On the 1776 I painted the case with a headerpaint. But the paint chipped away badly after some time. The VHT paint looks way better espacilly after burned in at the oven. Hope it will last long...

Anyone got some input about the blue cylinders ???

Have fun,
Felix

dummy test fit.
It is as wide as my 1776 engine  8)
Next step is test fitting & modifing the SS 1 5/8 header with a big flange
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]

Nice project Felix, i like it very much that you spend alot of time on all those details! did you also spend some time on ''boattailing'' the case on the inside? (making the passage between cilinders bigger)? I've build some engines with the new vw cases, and they are very rough on casting finish, i've also spotted that sealing problem on some cilinders base, helicoils not deep enough etc.

The blue colour maybe the residue of the honing process?? i have no clue.. That VHT stuff looks great, it's on a powder base i think?

Also a good tip for head/cilinder sealing is to use valve paste and put some in the head edge and twist the barrel in the cilinder head, this gives better sealing surface.

Good job and keep the pictures roll''n

Grt and see you @ DFL402

Isn´t the cylinders seated right on the bottom heating element in the oven?  This part gets hotter than the 280 degrees you set the oven at, and the cylinders suck all the heat. If I were to ever put the cylinders in the oven, then I would put them in the middle, because the heat is better controlled here. Maybe they did get to hot?  :-\

Ahhhh..okay now u owned me!

wow felix, this thing is going together really fast. I'd love to be as far as u with my build. But it'll take some time. Maybe DDD 2010. Studying sucks - no time/no money.

Hi Rasser,
thank`s for your thoughts and you should be right with the bottom of the oven. Next time in the middle...I hope piston ring break in will not last much longer than normal as the cylinder wall will be harder now.


Thank ya mate.
I even thouht about this problem.When closed completly an amount of air will rest up there taht`s for sure. That will effect the pressure readings at the orig. terminal but will be bad for the engine? I don`t know...
But I will look if I could tap the oil cooler itself and drill a small passage hole in the case to let a small amount of oil flow.

Sadly I haven`t got much time in the last weeks to do many things on the engine/car. Just small things.
Some mounting Hardware:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/4590290014_f316361be4.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4589669803_20d59282fb.jpg)

Modified the header to a big flange and needed to shorten the merged section to get it fit.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/4589670157_b5be1ee6da.jpg)

The other Glaspack will make the set up symetric in the next days:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4589670061_7ebca35097_o.jpg)

:-)
This kind of exhaust may be...somehow...a little loud !?
Would be interesting to hear !
Greets , Carsten

Hey Carsten now I have two of them  ;D
Should be 1/2 loud as one,or?  ;)

finished the Dual glaspack with adjustable mounts that go to header clamps. The adjustment and exact fittig was very time robbing and I first went with a straight setup to the end panel which looked very bad. So I cut it in pieces again and went with an angled fittig.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3375/4636401592_45046ff417.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4635837155_11d3c8ae94.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4636401716_63c6972e20.jpg)

I now came with an other solution to stay with the orig. cooler look and have some oilflow in that section.
Freed for 1/4 to AN-6 Adapter
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4636401834_ebd88c9671.jpg)

The tube got some little grooves athough I filled it with sand and taped it before bending. Not good looking but raw...I will block the first adapter and drill it to 2-4mm to reduce the oil flow tru that section.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3351/4635795835_1ecfd23dbc.jpg)

Cooler spaced
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4636401960_246b1b90f7.jpg)

Stock looking as I wanted it. Other main advantage is that I must not modify the 3/4 enginetin:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4636402092_75beb7ab6e.jpg)

A Kerscher discbarke isn`t a bad idea to compensate the 2,2l power that hepefully will be in action soon...The header paint will rub off quick.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3329/4636402256_877f147b57.jpg)

Nice job, that type 3 is great !

Looks good ! Where do you get the mufflers/Glaspacks from ? Which diameter do they have ?
Greets , Carsten

Great idea on that exhaust!!  :o  Thinking outside the box!

Thank`s guys!
The glaspacks are from CSP an 2" outer diameter

enough flow trough that curved pipe? if you'd filled it with a copper wire it won't flatten when bending.

Nice mod's! keep up the pace and pictures!

Nice going Felix! Will it be ready for DFL 402? Would like to race you  ;D

Hey Jesse,

sadly the notch will not be ready for DFL402/Bitbug...I am a bit pissed about that point, cause last year I could make many passes and tests at DFL402/Bitbug absolutley not comparable with Dragday. To less time at the moment to wrench...

Case is still not mounted finally. I wanted to do the exhaust first (case without interna) and then complete the engine clean.
All pan`s need to be glasblasted & painted, oil cooler clamp and air duct ist still not made and 100 other little things ;)
Hope to complete the engine in 1-2 months.

@Jesse: Race at Dragday  8)

@ Typ1/DVK:
A cooper wire is a good trick I will try that out on the next engine ;)

I WANT to reduce the oil flow at that spot. There is now bearing that needs oil after the cooler. A massive oil flow at that point could even be a problem...I will reduce the bore at the first AN Adapter to a 2-3mm bore. Only the air should get out of that section...

(http://www.csp-shop.de/images/technic/oelsystem_3.jpg)

Greetings,
Felix

felix, why not drop in the 1776?
see you at DFL 402 :)

I don`t want to step back man... Another thing is that the 1776 doesn`t exist anymore.

There is only the short block left. Heads & cylinders are sold and I have bought a 94mm cylinder kit   ;)
Crank (78 or 82mm) and heads next year.

Have you painted your case already?

In the last days I finished the heads for the second time... ::)

I had to cut the heads a bit deeper for the wanted compression of 10.5. So I needed to extend & smooth the outer section to cylinder wall again.
Firts time the heads were cut I was a bit to discret with the depth so the heads came out with a 9.5 compression. My fault...

Marked with cylinder
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2786/4443415677_39e0ce9459.jpg)

raw stadium
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4444186734_647f0f63d6.jpg)

After a bit smoothing I brung all combustion chambers to the exact volume. At one head both chambers were very close. The other head differed about 1ml. I removed material behind the sparkplug. That bbrings the spark a bit more to the middle of the bowl.

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2696/4444187220_0cd0c8ee72.jpg)

3 Holes made the process easier.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4443416463_46550434ac.jpg)

A burette is such a nice working tool. The injection method I even worked with before is way to inexact. Try to get 3 exact same readings with the injection and you will see what I mean.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4444187328_de074d0012.jpg)

finished
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4649352961_b6cb0c91fb.jpg)

After that I cut back the exhaust guides as they extend way to much into the port. I didn`t want to cut them back complete to make the life a bit easier for the guides...

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4649971412_bb0e56ba3a.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4008/4649353149_efed0ab3cf.jpg)

back on the track...

The long block is now finished.  ;D

Sadly I couldn`t make too many pics as my camera is dead. So I had to borrow me one.

I extended the orig. pick up tube and slided/hammered a bigger pipe over the existing and welded them together for safety. The end is made a bit smaller on a lathe to fit into the oil screen which I extended a bit.
I taped the pipe into the case with sealant to make a 100% leak proof connection.

Much much much time was spent to get ALL parts really clean. It`s interesting how dirty even new parts are. The total seal rings were one of those canidates.

Case is sealed with Loctide 574, cylinders and washers with Dirko HT.I got some big SW15 head nuts plated for the case assembly gives a good contrast to the black.
The head nuts are of course even plated and the big washers.

Next step (and one step further to drive  ;) ) is the complete engine tin which needs to be painted.

hey, looks really good. but quick question. what paint did you use on the case? that looks good.

Stupid Question... aren't the case nuts on backwards? Shouldn't the red seal go towards the case against the washers?

Well that's one of the Berg trick's..

Hmmm. never saw that one before

Thank ya man.
I have used VHT engine enamel burned in in an oven.

@DKK Rick: As Gäschen said it`s an old berg trick. I think the idea behind is that the plastic seal will give an incorrect torque AND the nut may get a bit looser after some heating and cooling cycles.

Superb attention to detail :)

I like the black engine case.

so do I  ;D

when is the next update felix? get to work ;)

long time no update as I was on holiday and had some other things to do.But in the next days some things will happen.
I got the complete engine tin back from the powder coating which will be mounted soon.

Since the last update I have only made some small things as completing the valve train and shiming the CB rockers for correct side play.
Sadly I had to drill the mounting holes in my race trim valve covers bigger to get them mounted. Before I could only mount one screw each side.
So belive me when pre mounting your engine mount every part... The better mod would had been to gring away material at the heads...

So this time some words about the gearbox that were build at the beginning of this year. As I have sended a gearbox with my 1776 to heaven I didn´t want to cut corners and do it after the engine is completed and have gone thru and orig gearbox.

The gearbox is made out of an early typ-3 4,125 box and an late IRS 72- one cover box.
My goal was to get the best out of orig. VW parts.

The specs are
R&P: 4,125
1st: 3,78 (late shaft)
2nd: 2,06
3rd: 1,32 (the shortest vw availabale) (raw teeth/syncs welded)
4th: 0,89 (raw teeth/syncs welded)
and last but not least an NOS ZF LSD

It`s an compromise between fast accelarating 1-3 and an overdrive 4th for easy autobahn cruising. An orig. 0,93 4th would have made the gap 3-4 smaller but I wanted an 4th for traveling in excaptable speeds over the autobahn.

With mixing up the parts late/72- you could get the best out of an orig. box. The late 72 1&2nd shaft for hard starts and the late 3&4 raw teeth gears for more strenght.
But the sync/gearholders of the 3&4th gear need to me modified to fit on the late shafts, or the shaft could be moded. I n my case the gears were moded.

Mailny of the work was done by a club mates brother (D. Göhner) which did an superb job and has all the knowled and the needed special tools for measuring and adjusting everything.

Some other work was done in the south of D by a man called M. Dietrich which made some cool mod`s.
The base:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4044/4589710745_38cfe5bb6e.jpg)

Many bearings were made new even the big ones in the side covers and of course the often overlocked mainshaft bearing at front. The orig. R&P bearing cover plate was exchanged against an Cromo housing.
Aditional oil channels were made:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4590337334_3d9de216df.jpg)

laser welded synch and aditional oiling:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4590331428_1e351d5080.jpg)

LSD setup:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4590336478_9cfd1ce7a8.jpg)
The R&P are both glas pearl blasted for an better oil film. There are some extra holes in the LSD housing for additional oiling. A big thank ya to Bruce for huge info support about the LSD theme!

some words about the front cover:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4649971198_8477a9f274.jpg)

The shift forks are now teflon bushed and the box shifts like a dream at stand. The main bearing is now secured by an key so that the outer ring could not turn in the cover.
A neat trick of mister Dietrich is the cover plate he lasers to get the shafts supported well axial.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3327/4589711211_0c421c8c44_o.jpg)

done:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4041/4590337540_7cd850f41b.jpg)
I pre polished the fins to get it detailed but as it was painted I left it so cause it will fit the engine case better. Very good that I spended some... hours of grinding and pre polishing the fins  ::)

The sharp intersection at the ends of the driveshafts were grinded smooth and polished to prevent breaking. I will see if that will hold but I wanted to try that before buying china parts... Oversize "halfmoon stones" the ones with the groves are beeing used in the diff.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4590337418_1be67ab552.jpg)

Fabulous work as usual, Felix! Too bad that I won´t be able to see your new engine debute on the sticky Bitburg track at DDDay. :(

Looking at the mods at your gearbox I´m really thinking about asking Dirk to redo my gearbox once again to get the bushed shift forks and the keyed main bearing (both of which are problem areas in my gearbox).

When rebuilding my engine over the winter months I am sure to take care of some of the many small modifications you did to your engine as well. Thanks a lot for writing about all that in detail and taking the associated pictures - it´s a great help! :)

Tobi

Awesome work again Felix!

ThanKs for all tose kind comments!

Update:
I sandblasted the small 0,3ltr. boxes and painted them with wrinkle paint to get oit look a bit better.
The boxes will mount at the rear of the engine compartment. If someone has to nice ratrimboxes or old claude buggies one`s please feel free to contact me.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4880056600_434c40c000_z.jpg)

I screwed in 3/8 NPT thread and blocke two of the holes with plugs and replaced the very restrictive "foam" with steel-wool

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4879450439_870df85328_z.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/4880058476_3175eeb65e_z.jpg)

Some detail shoots:

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4880056874_656d21baa9_z.jpg)

Tewo 45° angle gives good room along the fan housing:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4879449077_5a801a7f59_z.jpg)

Late oil cheking tube with drain back pipe to the orig. breather box:

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4880057138_d7fe3b3e71_z.jpg)

009 dizzy with ignitor made old with wrinkle paint:

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4880057290_bf0da4260e_z.jpg)

Mounted some of the coated tin and the fan. You got to bet sure that the fan is tighted propperly. I mounted my with 200Nm and loctide tight

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4879449815_5162c721e4_z.jpg)

For tightening the flywheel with 400Nm (Cromo screw) I buyed myself a 100-500Nm torque wrench. Before I always mounted the Screw with an long pipe and calculated the torque / distance where to go on the pipe with my body weight. As I am as many others ;) are a tool nerd I had to have one to do it wright. Wasn`t that expensive as I thougth.e-bay has so good & cheap ones.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4880058034_58bb45ac08_z.jpg)

One problem I came across was that an orig. VW O-Ring came between the crank/flywheel. I had a bad feeling when i mounted the flywheel even before as the ring wasn`t so tight at the outside of the flwheelgroove so I remove it again. And it was good that I did. The champfer at the crank is very small so the ring can get between.

After that issue I mounted an new ring from CSP which sat tighter at the outside, and it worked out.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4880057580_4525aaf5b9_z.jpg)

Marked the fan with the timing marks correctly even marked 32° to ckek full advance of the dizzy and 7,5° for 2nd 3rd and 4th cylinder to check if the ignitor module (magnet locations on the inner ring) works like it should be.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4879449941_462d495031_z.jpg)

The room to be filled. I mounted the mallory coil at the side. I really like the look of those ones!

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4879450925_d72f822bba_z.jpg)

And here we go:

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4880059056_2893c3fdf8_z.jpg)

racetrim covers and sump:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4879451413_afa1c97863_z.jpg)

My workbench now really looks empty without the engine hanging in front of it. But I will get used to it  ;)
Many small things to be done. More later...

looking good!  :o

Felix,

a question.  did you have long or short axles when you drove the car around on chromies?  4.5 in the front, 5.5 in the rear?  tire size on the rear wheels?

thx, would be some usefull info for me.

Dem

Hello very nice work !!

Question: do you have any pictures wehre i can see the fan? is your fan welded and did you balance it as acomplete kit with the crank?
I am buiding at the moment a type3 1776 for my seeblau 1965 notch

greetings from switzerland

Thank`s guys.

@Dem: Long axles with 5.5 ET 25 all around and edge flanged fenders  ::) Front 195/45R15 rear 195/50R15. The old resto days many went thru before seeing the light...  ;D
With some higher ET 40+ wheels you will not have big problems...

@Achim: Nice. What heads will you run?
The fan is welded and everything balanced. IF I remember correctly it was balanced alone and with the crank.

Work was done by Wittkuhn Tuning/Essen
http://www.wittkuhn-tuning.de/ (http://www.wittkuhn-tuning.de/)

The 1776 I had before didn`t had a welded and balanced fan which even worked for the revs that were possible.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4885307685_5b9e2d1666_z.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4885910306_1e15075a12_z.jpg)

Thanks Felix for the pics and tipps

I will run Mini "D" Port Head's from http://www.brothersvwmachineshop.com/heads.htm (http://www.brothersvwmachineshop.com/heads.htm) with 42/37,5 Valves and a Pauter 304°Cam with Scat lifters and 44 Weber IDF .
I use a AS original case and original crank.....
Do you think it is not necessary to weld the fan (because of the lower fan rpm in type3) ?

have a nice day achim

thx Felix for clearing up the my wheels questions.

IT RUNS  ;D

what more could be said? See you at Dragday!

maybe some small things to show...

I didn`t want to go with the cheapish empi oil cooler so I bought a racimex style plate type cooler. Much more effective in comparsion to the tube style empi one.
Made an alu-airbox for the oil cooler to grab some air thru. The cooler fits in the spot very tight I may spended more time in thinking and measuring than building the box...Works very nice. So far I never got over 85-95°C. One thing to look at is when the engine is hot driven over the autobhan and a traffic jam appears.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4151/4974742616_8105d08fbb_z.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/4974743120_c48aa8795f_z.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/4974743252_ae56568c5f_z.jpg)

A thing I did notshow.Drain back line from the head 3/4th cylinder into the case. Soo nice you can adjust valves without flodding the header at the 3/4th and should even help to get the oil back were it belongs when reving high.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4111/4974716470_3a3e6c15d2_z.jpg)

double nut solution for mounting the racetrimcovers. I had a problem with one long 13mm nut before at the 1776cc. So the big 15mm nut for holding the rockers and the tiny one for mountig the valvecovers.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/4974128105_23dcf311a9_z.jpg)

That`s how it looks now:
Linkage is self made pull tye style one using an original typ-3 linkage shortened and an lever I got from an other linkage which runs in an alu bushing.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4086/4974742878_7180315de5_z.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4091/4974811170_3869c8ae77_z.jpg)

Cam is "broken in" and the first 200km are done. The first drives I made in the Harz. A small bedrock. Low revs and high load to get the piston rings set.
Drives very smooth even at the low rpms. After the first 500km the rev limiter will be removed and I will see what potential the engine got, and of course what time on the 1/4 at DDD.

One problem is exactly the same I got even with the 1776cc. At middle revs and constant gaspedal position the car runs way too rich. I will install a pressure regulator and check the float hight maybe the carbs are overflodding.

So some small things to do on the car like installing the hurst line lock, swaping to late black/white instruments and so on.

As said: See you at Dragday!  ;D

@Achim: I think the fan is more stressed when the engine is ideling fast as the fan could not slip as on an upright engine and gets the vibrations direct from the crank. I would do it. Hey why not invest in an 78 crank? Your heads will love a bit more cc.

Hello Felix
Nice to hear. See you at DDD. If you arrive on Friday,the beer is cold.

Great Car with a great engine. I wish you a lot of fun.

Dirk

good to hear felix!
congrats!!

Perfect!
Can´t wait to see it runing at DDD.

Good luck!

Looks very nice :-) Even better would b alittle sound from a video... Will try to manage it to come to DDD and see it live .
Had the same "problem" with 2 different sets of IDA`s on three different engines , too. But for me it never was a problem , hit the pedal sometimes and the problem was solved ;-) . I think it is a general problem of the IDA carbs , maybe they are not made for "cruising" !?!? More for pedal to the metal...

Great job with the oil cooler box !

Hey guys thank ya all for the kind coments!
It`s really nice to sit behind the wheel after a year. Feeled like a decade...

@Dirk: I will be there at friday and will follow your invite. Thank`s! Really looking forward to DDD#8!
At the moment I am watching an DDD#1 footage. Boy what has the event grown. The first on was little but very special with so nice cars.
Really odd to see my ride with the cromies and back down at the vid. To me it looks like an complete other car.

@Carsten: Yeah more a full throttle gasser. But I think there must be a solution. It`s just air,fuel and holes...
Maybe other emulsion tubes will make a difference or a bigger air correction to get more air thru. I will try some combos and report.
I even do the pedal limbo to get around the problem, or more pedal to the metal...

Felix, amazing job !!!
Have fun with it and see you on the track !!!

FELIX,

WOW!! I could stare at your craftsmanship ALL day long. It looks amazing. You make me want to sell both of my Mustangs to build an aircooled VW again. Keep up the good work.

Mike

p.s. im a noob here and this is my first post.

Congrats on the trophy!

Your engine is very clean; it will be a source of inspiration for mine.

felix, you've done an awesome job. the notch looks great. thanks for answering my endless line of questioning  ;)
13.9 is not bad!!! on the 3rd run?
good job :)

good job and really Congrats for DDD trophy !!!

congrats

13.9, Trophy and 1000km trough germany at one weekend with the car :D

respect.

Dirk

congrats with a great build and a nice trophy.
I was wondering with the fan balanced like you did, what are the maximum save revs for your engine.
Thinking of building a race type three engine and I'm not sure about the cooling.
thanks

Congratulations on the trophy Felix!!  ;D 8) Well deserved.

Love the work you did. Been watching with great interest.

congratulation for DDD  8)
your car is very cool !!

a question :
the fuchs is 6x15 and 5,5x15 ?

congratulations!!!

very cool pick of the DAS-guys. well deserved and it was great to see the car run that good.

take care.

Hi everyone,

been a bit busy in the last days...

Thank you very much for all the compliments here and I got at the DDD8. Mann I was blasted away  :o
It`s very interesting how many people read and browse thru the lounge!

DDD8 was such a perfect weekend! What a good meeting.
Especially for me personaly as I drove into the 13`s (13,92 sec at the 4 th run/1st run was terrible) the notch did 1000 km`s with only 1 problem and of course the trophy I dreamed of many nights ;)

Thank ya DAS for chosing me!

That was the problem that occured on the way to DD8.One muffler broke away although it was supported at the end:
(http://www.aircultblog.de/photos/100919_DasDragDay8/IMG_2619.JPG)

And it happend 10min before all shops close. Lukyly I found a Volvo shop which welded the muffler on for me. As you can see the welding was done by a good of metal  ::) He even didn`t want to remove the muffler for final welding at the back...But I removed the muffler and he welded as good as he could.
Very interesting is that I took about 1- 1 1/2 hours to make both mufflers in the accurate angle and distance. And he just welded it on...
BUT it worked even the way back after DDD8 so I will not blaspheme more.

I hope to make the notch run mid 13`s which will be possible hoply. I didn`t start that hard to go easy on the trans and the engine didn`t rev that high. And a pair of slicks are wating to turn again...

More updates will come!
All I could say so far is: Happiness is a hot VW    ;D

Best greetings and have fun,
Felix


Sorry I don`t know the max. revs it could make. Till yet I reved up to 7400 1/min.What cc you are heading for?


Thank`s mike,
that post went down like hot oil! Have fun here!
Greetz.

We'll be building a 1835 turbo. 7400 rpm will be plenty. because off the turbo it wont have to make too many revs.

Hi Felix,nice feature from your "notch" in the new "vw-speed magazine".
Congrats.  ;)

Thank ya! Of course even a BIG thank`s to VW Speed!
I really like the feature. Check it out at a gas station near you.

Greetings!

Dam, I really need to adjust my door over the wintertime ;)
Some other mod`s will even take place. Stay tuned...

Very nice picture of an even better car. Congrats Felix.

Hi Felix. Thanks for sharing.

Hi Felix,

could you explain, what advantages these modifications have ?
Your cam-gears look modificated too !?

Thanks,
Nick

Hi Nick,
the tangs are there to get more oil flow thru the bearings and mainly to oil the bearings axial.
That reduces the axial wear from bearing to crank and cam.
The cam bearings even have those tangs.
Tangs are on both side of the double thrust cam bearings and on one side of the main bearing (axial load side).
As said you can even see that trick on the nice feature of gary bergs car and on BMW motorcyle engines. I always like to compare and look at the BMW engines for details.

Greetings,
Felix

Okay, thanks ! :) I'll try this on my next engine !

Congrats on the very nice feature in Ultra VW Felix!

Hi Felix

Question: I am still planing my 1776 Type3 motor! is there any reason why you used a 26mm Oil pump and not a 30mm ? is there maybe not enough place? I will use a schleicher 324°Cam and i think this cam will fit only with a 30mm oil pump after 71" ! Maybe you could give me some Advice? Should i rather use a Pauter Cam and the small Pump or do you think it will fit with a 30mm one?

thanks for your advice--- achim from switzerland---

???  ??? ??? huh what, tell me more!
What I know is that there may be a feauture in Ultra to the end of the year (Pic`s by Stephan S.)


Hey Achim,
I selected the 26mm pump as it deliveres enought oil-flow in my point of view (bluprinted of course, and they ALL need to be blueprinted if not somebody before done that...) Why deliver more oil that is than blown away at the regulator, and that oil is created by using Watts...
Keep in mind that the axial play is the main factor for created oil flow. It`s even a goog idea to seal the pump to the case. Before closing the case install the pump and seal the inletport to the case / outlet if you are not going full flow which I wouldn`t recomend. Berg sealing for the poor man...
Disadvantage: If you ever pull the pump! There goes your sealing... Then make yourself a O-Ring grove on a lathe and seal via o-Ring.

The only benifit of a blueprinted 30mm is that you get a bit more oil flow (due to that oil pressure) at hot idle. But then you may have a problem with too much leakage, , bad oil cooler, to much delta pressure on the way pump to xxx to case, worn out bearings or other problems...

The 30mm Pump will fit with the typ-3 setup only if you modify the front housing. I needed to modify (made a hole which was seled after installing front housing) for my 1776 as I used a CB 26mm full flow pump with outlet/inlet. My 26mm needed only a bit shorter studs on the left half and a small radius at the housing. I am using the CSP full flow cover without panic valve.
__________
Some news about my 67:
Gearbox is out as it made some noises in thrust drive after DDD8. Maybe the bearing in the side plate has moved a bit/made room, due to that more play at the R&P = noise.
Other things to do: linelock, Porsche 944 main brake cylinder, black headliner, new and bigger glaspack or dual pack exhaust (still thinking) and some other small things.
I am missing the summer.Have fun!
[attachment=1]

Disadvantage: If you ever pull the pump! There goes your sealing... Then make yourself a O-Ring grove on a lathe and seal via o-Ring.

Felix, and then... I had issues with o-ringed pumps, the o-ring crumbles up after re-installing the pump in a torqued case. Your thoughts ?

Check the February 2011 issue :)

Here in Bit Burg at DDD#2 2004

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1226/1260572215_e1f25bb5d2_b.jpg)
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1348/1260569615_9b9be2941d_b.jpg)

amazing, that notch is still looking sharp and shiny 6 years later!!

Hmmh, a berg pump or home grown? Often the o-rings are selected to big. Remember that the ring grows up under temp and oil influence.
Did you try loosing the case nuts at the pump location?

@Carlito: Nice pic I haven`t seen for some years. It is very presentable for the normal madnees. Car=shining / Owner=uncared due to all the time went into the car...
After DDD2 we had a nice holiday week in belgium and the went to the Spa meeting. Lot of fun.

(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/169393.jpg)

As said car is now in hovercraft-mod. Waiting for the gearbox and other small & big things to come.
[attachment=1]

Hhmmm, where have I seen something like that before... ???

Ahh, I remember... ;) :D

(http://www.krunker.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/02/landspeeder-thumb.jpg)

May the force be with you... :)

Hmmh, a berg pump or home grown? Often the o-rings are selected to big. Remember that the ring grows up under temp and oil influence.
Did you try loosing the case nuts at the pump location? Quote/Unquote.

Berg Pump, i even tried a super tight Viton ring, but it crumbles up as well. (of course with loosening the nuts/bolts around the pump area).

Any chance you have a pic of the white sedan with the gold Empi's behind the Notch?

Hi,

the pearlwhite car belongs to Olaf Ennen from DFL. On the pic it´s still running on reproduction five spokes but it´s now rolling on genuine EMPI fives. For more pics have at look at:  http://www.dflvwclub.de/cars.php?id=7&fileid=0

Tobi

Here the direct link to the the specs:
http://www.dflvwclub.de/cars.php?lang=en&id=7
14,5 sec with 1776, stock gearbox, and non trailer car ;D That`s the idea of Cal look to me, loving that 65...

here in action 2006:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OmYhK1BuGU

@Ole: He he, land-speed(st)er action.
@Harry: Hmmh that`s crude. Never heared of those probs. Waht did you did then? Istalled an non ringed pump and everything was ok?

Hey Felix, i went non-ringed. I just "prep" the case with a LITTLE permatex on the inside of the pump bore in the case, slide in the pump, the Permatex rolls up a little, torque it up and wait for 24 hours. Never had any problems doing this on several engines. Works for me.

Did you loose the oil-control plunger at the pulley side ?

hi Felix, any updates on this build?   :)

Hey pupjoint,

yeah man soooooo long no posting. Things have been a bit busy in the past time and I had not that much time für the www...

That has happened:
First I had to fix the family 65 T1 ambulance to get some good money for it. The reason? Later...
It had a big dent in the front and some play in the front steering. That and some other small things ate up time.

It sold really quick for some nice money.

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7237/7145953431_97005a9c7e_z.jpg)

So back to the 67.
As I had the gearbox out I thought hey let`s do some other things that always anoyed me over the last now 10 years of past restauration.
So off with the shell  ;D There were some small things that didn`t affect the quality or look, but I knew that those things were there so I wanted to fix it. In betwen of the process I of course thoght what idiot are you thet you disassemble a good runner for penuts. But that`s the way things go...
So shell of the pan and everything look good. I fixed the peanut things and conserved everything. New rubber and down it goes. Man I wish all that happened in the time I am now writing this words...

(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6064/6093541387_20a0171461_z.jpg)

(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6204/6094079020_3b7c96041f_z.jpg)

Another point I always didn`t like was the white headliner with the white pillar coverings. That always stood out of the black/chrome/red thing. But in no good way in my view. So out with the orig. headliner and a complete black in. The installing wasn`t that comfortable as with the orig. but with some patience, heat and sometimes ugly words it now sits nice. Just have to do the sunvisiors. Some time...

(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6063/6094079892_4bcc1fa6d2_z.jpg)

Another route I went 10-11 years before was to make many parts in the interieur in silver to match the early instruments. That silver even didn`t match in my view. Soooo paint it balck ! (or powder) The instruments are converted to late blck one`s with a trip speedo. The pedals are now drilled for look and weight and pink noooo black powedered! The steering colum is black gloss painted and the monster tachometer was replaced with a more decent Autometer street-tach. The 52mm VDO instruments got reworked an moved under the glove box with a cyl. head instrument. I will ad a pic later on.
A Hurst line lock is now even installed but didn`t use it till yet. But DDD10 will come ;)

(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6204/6094078790_4a913f9e0e_z.jpg)

So since the 28th may it runs strong again. 30th we had our annual DFL may cruise madness in Hannover.
I even switched the F7 emulsion tubes at the IDA`s against F2 (without changing anything else) and it made a hugh difference to the good side. Read these suggestion some times here in the lounge and it was such a good advice!

The main reason for the pressed free time and the bus selling was definetly the bought of our own house. That old lady needed some love before we could settle over from our renting apartment. The house retoration is on a good way, but belive me it will never be "done" ;)
One of he best thing is the garage. A mian buying argument... Working at the cars at our own home was always a long time dream that now will become true.

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8153/6999961846_14c07bf43e_z.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7046/7145928315_8115e3b84d_z.jpg)

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5118/7145929385_cb9c43dc50_z.jpg)

Best greetings everyone!

the interior changes sound good! ;) how's the engine and gearbox holding up? :)

Hi Felix,
looks like you made some nice changes and good progress.
The house looks very nice, hope you have a spare room to accommodate some friends when they are in town.

Greetz
wim

bump again  :)