The Cal-look Lounge

Hi Guys.
I have an AEM water injection kit on my blow through turbo .
I'm using Twin 40 Dells. I had 1 injector just after the turbo blowing through the carbs, this was contaminating the carb float bowl and passage ways/jets with water and corrosion was starting to affect the carb so had to stop using it.
So  I'm going to fit 1 nozzle to each manifold port.
So on a 1.9 what size nozzles would be right for me. Also which brand of nozzle is it.
Thanks   

If 1.9 single nozzle was correct, gauge the hole size unless it is in millimeters. Calculate area, divide by four and calculate back to new nozzle diameter, you should be close. Some fine tuning may be needed due to orifice's hydraulic diameter being slightly smaller than actual diameter. You can also set up a flow test, do 1.9 single first and then with four nozzles using the same pressure. That's how we used to do it when setting up nitrous Fuel systems.

Thanks for that WPH.

Here's why I need to get my water injection working again.
My motor will ping under boost at 26 degree.
If I retard it JUST 2 degrees it After fires out the exhaust. BIZARRE.
So I'm going to have to the water/meth working to stop the ping.

I'm HOPING Richie will have the answer.

Hi Garrick

Are you just injecting water or methanol/water mix ?

Just wonderin if it would make a difference to the corrosion/deposit being left behind.

Thanks
Darren

Lets start with some basics :)

How much boost is that 26degrees timing at?
What AFR?
What compression and what cam?


cheers Richie

Hi guys.
Richie.  Boost is 1 bar.
Afr is 12.
Comp is 7.5.1
Cam is Web 86A (type 4).
With the timing at a locked 26, It doesn't struggle to turn over, even when fully warmed up.
The water/meth I used is -30 degree washer fluid.

Ok what heat range plugs? 

I think 12.x AFR is a little lean, no intercooler right?

cheers Richie

Yes no intercooler.
Plugs are ? I need to check, I don't think there hot, I do have some NGK BP?ES non projected ones. (cold ones) I will put them back in. Do you think the tip could be glowing.

I am just trying to get an overall idea of whats happening, the issue when you take 2 degrees out worries me the most, really don't understand that at all

cheers Richie

leaking exhaust valve???

gr henri

Leak down test time I think

I don't understand it either. Thing is its always done it since It I 1st built it, I've taken it out to try and find out why a couple of times. I put dual springs on the inlets thinking it was that. I left the exhaust valve springs singles as my thinking is the firing of the plug keeps the exhaust valve on the seat. Maybe I'm wrong. I always lapped the valves in and used  Blue Dye on the seats. I checked for any bent valves prior to fitting. I had It  right recently. I could plant the throttle with out any drama, next time I drove it, it was back to AFTER FIRING. Its not Backfiring  into the hats as they are clean with no brown burnt fuel colouring like you would expect from a backfire up the carb. The vacuum side of the butterflies are clean too, They would be brown burnt coloured before the hats wouldn't they.

I'm so p****d off with it.

I'll do a leak down next.

I really don't think singles springs are enough, you have exhaust back pressure trying to open ex valves and even duals might not be enough for 1bar depending on back pressure, I would be pretty sure its floating valves and it bouncing off seat might be cause of exhaust noise you hear.
Depending on rest of valve train singles probably aren't enough for 86a N/A even, even more so with boost

With what info you have given so far I think its lean as well, do you see any change in AFR with and without the water/meth injection?

When I had the water/meth going through the carbs the AFR did go richer than the 12, The AEM instructions do say to jet it 1 point leaner than you need at WOT, The meth richens it up that extra point.
Its got to be the springs hasn't it. :(
I do have to take the motor out some time soon as the clutch needs uprating.
Looks like I'm into more head work as well.

I will give an update when I get the 4 port meth working.

Regards Garrick.


P.S I'm going to get 4 x   DO1 nozzles there 85cc each. from my calculations they are big enough for a 1.9cc motor at 1 bar without drowning it.

Guys.
 So i've bought the direct port nozzle kit off devils own and plan on fitting them to my manifolds at weekend.
Question is do I position the nozzles as close to the valve as possible. 

I have never used it, so this is only my theory ;)   But I would be fitting it as far away from valve as possible to get maximum time for it to work to lower temperature in intake

cheers Richie

Ok. I will put them just below the throttle plates.

Regards Garrick

Ok . I have the nozzles fitted.
Had to adjust the spray start Psi on the AEM dial box.
I have it working good. No pinging at the low boost setting.
I'm fairly pleased with it so far, need to put more TEST miles on it.

One weird thing it does is after a drive, I put it back in the garage, I have it just sat idling for a while, then it starts  popping out the exhaust slightly, like its lean, I look at the fuel gauge and may be coincidence but it seams to  do it when the fuel needle is near the reserve mark. Gauge is the original 67 one.

P.s. The look on peoples face when you over take in a scruffy looking patina bug is priceless.  ;D

good work on getting it all done and back together 8)



I think though popping out of exhaust is rich, and popping back through intake is lean, that's my experience anyway. Popping in exhaust is usually unburnt fuel in hot exhaust

cheers Richie

Yeah that makes sence. I'll test it again tomorrow , when it starts to pop at idle the AFR gauge should give me a clue.
Cheers Garrick