Hi guys!
Here is my new 1904cc, tried to give it a 70's vibe, for sure missing 48ida but fun enough to drive with a big smile with those 40dells

And the fourth episode is finally finished.
https://youtu.be/37rcueZyJJ8?si=hrW9RZfOnYhlbSza

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video...
https://youtu.be/RSwYBIIOiEc?feature=shared

Lucky I film almost everything. I was able to go back and watch myself install the oil pump. Caught red-handed! Here you can see me putting the thick gasket between the pump and the cover.


The oil pump puller deformed before it managed to budge the pump from the block. I also measured the axial play on the gears in the new and old oil pumps with feeler gauges. The new pump was between 0.05 and 0.1 mm, while the old pump that was already in the engine was less than 0.05 mm. So I kept the old pump and mounted the cover without a gasket. Only Curil T2. The pump was packed with grease to help during startup.



I also Designed and 3D-printed a tool to find and mark TDC and 30 degrees on my pulley using the original marks at 7.5 and 10 degrees.



I then changed the bushing in the distributor to the one that gives 20 degrees advance. Then I set the ignition so I have about 28 degrees at roughly 3000 rpm, which landed at about 8 degrees at idle.
The carburetor was also cleaned and fitted with a larger jet of 127.5 since I assumed it was originally jetted for old gasoline without all the 10% ethanol we have here.. I also switched to 20w-50 oil and checked the valve clearances.


After this it was startup time! The oil pressure light went out on the second turn of the key with just the starter motor. The car fired up and I took another trip to the gas station. I removed the T-bars in case they would complain about them at inspection for some reason..



I drove the car back to the city to my apartment. So far no problems! I also swapped to the large license plate in the front that I’m supposed to have in according to the registration papers.. Because the next morning it was time for inspection!


The inspection went fine except for two unnecessary faults. The low beam was aimed too high and CO was too high… I had 7.0 and the limit is 4.5.
I went to the garage during the weekend, swapped to a 120 jet, adjusted the headlights lower, and gave the car a well-deserved wash.



The re-inspection on Monday went really well! The headlights were aimed low enough and I measured 0.1 in CO! I’ll probably switch to a slightly larger jet.. like 122.5 or 125.
So now the car is fully street legal and completely ready to use and enjoy! Now it’s officially a rolling project!!
I had also scheduled a wheel alignment the same day. I swapped back to the small front license plate and reinstalled the T-bars.




I still have some small fixes to do, but mainly I’ll be putting miles on the car to discover any potential issues before the trip to the Netherlands on September 18th!

DDS power pulley wanted preferably from Europe but willing to concider elsewhere if the price is good.

Cheers
Jokke

@andrewlandon67 : Thanks!
@steve67 : I have found the original sway bar. I will see if it fits, if not, 10mins work for me to narrow it.
@Felix/DFL : Tyres....noted!
@lawrence : Yes I tried a few settings as they are so easy to adjust. Started +3 on the front, not too bad, tried +7, undriveable!, now on 0 but think the sway bar is affecting things. Rears are on +7 , tried +5 but felt it too soft.

Good suggestions all. Thanks!

Plan of action is to 1)change from sway bar 2)optimise shock settings 3) change tyres (they need it anyway) 4) re optimise shocks 5)Try the Koni reds

most of the engine gasket sets have too thick gaskets for the oil pump cover. That might be a reason for the low pressure at hot idle conditions as well as the poor pressure build up, 20W50 will off course also help.
As last option you could think about using a 26 mm pump instead of a 21 mm pump as interim solution until the new engine is finished. They are availbale for 6 mm studs at CSP and others.

Interior came out really nice, the license plate bracket is great. I definitely need something similar for my 67

Thanks guys!

I finished up my front license plate bracket and mounted it, removable with just a single thumbscrew. Doesn’t look too bad!



I also designed and ordered a rear bracket using the same 3D-printed mounts. This one went on the engine lid with a rubber sheet to protect the paint.




I've started sketching up a press tool to make “US-style frames” that fit these modern Swedish plates. That’ll be a future project though…
Next step was to scrub the interior and get the car fully assembled.



Didn’t take many before/after pics, but I think the sun visors give a good idea of how filthy it was.



The headliner also came out nice.



Seats and door panels got a proper wash too.








After that I could finally start laying in all the carpets and interior pieces.






The car finally earned its TPB-member sticker too. Slightly smaller than the regular version and mounted inside the glass. These will be the only two stickers going on the car.
Next day was the first proper drive—to the gas station for a fill-up, about 10 km each way.



The trip there went smooth. Once there a couple of issues popped up: the gearbox is spewing oil out over the front mount, and I need to raise the front end since I’ve already rubbed down to bare metal in the fenders…


On the way back to the garage the car started running really rough. Oil pressure light also came on at idle.
Managed to limp back to the garage, to figure out what went wrong and what to do next.

Had to cancel the inspection I had booked for the next day.

After checking the gearbox and linkage more closely, I’m pretty sure the oil is coming from the vent/overflow at the top of the nose cone. It sprayed oil on the Bowden tube, but the bakelite plugs and shift linkage are dry.




Before inspection, the horn also had to be replaced since the old one was dead. The new one is way sportier and lighter than stock!


As for the engine not holding oil pressure when warm at idle, I’ve got one last shot. Since it’s been struggling to build pressure from the start, the issue is probably the pump. Either I used too thick of a gasket between the pump and cover, or the pump is just worn. I also ran too thin of an oil, 10w-40. I had 2.5 liters lying around and wanted to use it up, so I figured I could burn it during break-in…

Plan now is to swap in a new pump, mount it with a thin gasket (or just sealant), and run 20w-50 oil. On top of that I need to bleed the brakes and grind down the ridge on the rear drums. If all goes well, inspection might happen Friday or Monday.

Have you tried adjusting the settings, especially on the front shocks? Seems like the softest front setting would cause the bouncing described. It would also be best to increase the tire pressures a bit, front and rear. Too little air will add bounce and wobble to the ride.

Some good recommendations thus far. In the distant past, changes that improved the ride of my car were: tire pressure adjustment (20psi front, 30psi rear) and factory oil shocks in replacement of much to stiff silver, lowered KYBs.

Even if there are no cracks visible 20yrs old tires are rock hard and will drive like that!
You better invest in some new contact points to the street. Pirelli's for example are superb tires and keep soft for a very long time.