I'll try to clean up and polish the original paint as best i can. The fenders and repairs will be painted with no patina.
I'm going to make some spray-out cards to see how the color matches soon.
See ya there! 

great progress again!
What are your plans regarding paint?
Are you going to add  some patina to the new fenders and repaired sections to match the rest of the car?
Looking forward to see the car at the Airmighty show...

thanks Richie

Sometimes you have to go backwards to go forwards, this weekend was one of those occasions. The lovely guys at CSP have made up a set of disc brakes for me, in the required Chevy pattern, special thanks for them for doing this, and particularly Gunter for all his help. Friday 16th May, i finished work and headed to the workshop, the plan was to dummy fit the hubs to the pre-stripped front end slip on the wheels lower to ground, bask in the gloriousness of a job well done and then fit the rest of the kit. Unfortunately things didn't go according to plan. The hubs fitted perfectly, the wheels fitted the hubs perfectly, unfortunately when i lowered the car down it was clear that the wheels were too beaucoup for the arches. We're talking by about an 1inch per side, but it's something we need to address.

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So after a quick chat with Jay it looked like the beam is original width so a 2" narrowing should do the job. That meant an oppurtunity for some learning so Daniel and i removed the beam and stripped it ready for Jay and Mike to work their magic.

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Work continues! I assembled the second spindle and mounted them on the car.








Here you can clearly see how much drop you get from drop spindles.




With that, the front end is pretty much done! Except for a rough wheel alignment… But I’ll handle that later when the car is back on the ground.
Next step is to start working on the rear suspension.
And it was muddy as hell back there!




Drained the gearbox and started tearing down the brakes on both sides.






I cut the brake lines since all of them are going to be replaced.






And to remove the gearbox, it's easiest to remove the engine first.
The oil in it was insanely thick! There was half a centimeter of sludge in the oil strainer and the sump plate...






Cleaned the strainer and cover as best I could and put them back on once the engine was relatively empty..




The engine came out without major issues. Super handy with a removable center plate for this procedure!






The starter motor has definitely seen better days...
I haven’t tested if it works yet though!




The gearbox also came out without issues.




It was so incredibly filthy that I took it out and scraped off nearly a centimeter thick layer of gunk with a screwdriver, brushed it with a wire brush, then degreased and rinsed it off...






Opened the drain plug afterward to let out any water that might have gotten in. But all that came out was a splash of black oil.

I’ve also been working on the license plate bracket. The rear 3D-printed bushings that sit under the spare wheel well have been beefed up and printed in TPU, which is a soft rubber-like material that allows for some flex.





I printed my own license plate brackets that eliminate the need for the bends in the sheet metal, so I pressed itflat in the vice. (It is after all just a test version)




The new brackets are very slim and held the plate surprisingly well for a first version.






And yep. The frunk can open without hitting the license plate 
Though I still need to work on the front mounting point.
Alternatively, I might just use a thumb screw from inside the spare wheel well.

Other than that, I’ve gotten the driver seat’s backrest back from the upholsterer.
The seam had come apart as they all do, but now it’s repaired.





As the car sits now, it doesn’t seem likely that it’ll be on the road for Swedish Aircooled Weekend at the beginning of July.
Instead, I’m aiming to have it ready for the Airmighty show in September.
The car is supposed to take me all the way to and from Holland.
That’ll be exciting!

That’s all for now..

Thank you , It looks like I’ll be siphoning some out via the dip stick tube . Although I’ve never run it down a drag strip, I do drive it quite hard .

A significant factor in these engines is the oil level, too low and you risk running it dry on a pull, but too high and you risk having the crank spinning through the oil, wasting effort and sloshing excessive oil into the 3/4 head. Too high of oil can also start leaks through the rear main seal and other parts of the engine, either through unnecessary immersion or artificially raised crankcase pressure. With any more oil than a stock crankcase, even with a relatively small deep-sump and full flow system, the most you ever want to show is about halfway between the marks on a stock dipstick. Hope that helps!

I always go by the rule of just enough oil to wet the bottom of the dipstick on any engine with a deep sump.

Hi, I’m just wondering what is your fill level in the engine?
I have a deep sump and full flow to an oil cooler set up, just under the luggage area . If I fill the engine to the top line on the dip stick ,when the engine is running or just after, my fill level is just over half way . If I fill it back to the top mark , this then goes above the full line on the stick as it drains back into the engine .
I normally do this as the more oil to cool the engine is better?  What do you all think or do ?
Thank you Paul

This was removed from a 67 beetle. This is a Rear Seat with excellent springs. It is in great usable condition. Just needs to be reupholstered. This is correct for 65 to 67 but will fit up to 71.

I am asking only $125 Local pickup I can also ship please ask for shipping quote

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