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 81 
 on: August 26, 2025, 16:04:43 pm 
Started by dive!dive! - Last post by andrewlandon67
I'll be another vote for the red Koni Special-Ds, nothing has made a bigger difference than when I went with those. Another good change is some meatier front tires, when I went up to 175/65r15 my car almost completely changed, it's not bouncy or jarring, it's just smooth over everything.

 82 
 on: August 26, 2025, 14:37:57 pm 
Started by dive!dive! - Last post by Felix/DFL
Hey Steve,
I would  definetly change the HD roll bar to an original one so that one wheel can move easier.
Those HD one's are way to stiff...
Check that the axle moves free and is not too stiff itself.

Red konis are superb front shocks, those work brillant,

Another big point is too much tire preasure front & back.
At my notch I am running max. 1.6 & 1.9bar, with a bug you could even go lower.
Best Greetings, Felix


 83 
 on: August 26, 2025, 12:45:30 pm 
Started by dive!dive! - Last post by karl h
the best ride i ever had was my old 67 with narrowed beam, dropped spindles and red konis all around. my 63 now rides good too with bilsteins in the rear, but a little stiffer.
i have short bidlsteins valved for a lowered front and will try them soon. its kind of a trade off between ride quality and how fast you want to go through corners IMHO

 84 
 on: August 26, 2025, 09:53:54 am 
Started by dive!dive! - Last post by dive!dive!
Hi All
Been away from this hobby for a while. Had my '71 T1 for close to 40 years now but its not seen much attention the last few years. Now retired and have time for it. Fully rebuilt some time back, its immaculate and garaged, I wont bore you with all the details but the engine is a stout 1776 built on an Autolinea Al case, fuel injected through 38mm ITBs and does about 130hp on the dyno. I'm not really happy (and never have been) with the ride quality. At A road speeds (50-60mph) its pretty well behaved but slower speeds on less than good surfaces it feels 'bouncy' to me, especially on the front. Suspension set up is as follows - Front has a 2" narrowed beam with adjusters, dropped spindles, heavy duty anti roll bar. Rear (swing axle) has 24mm torsion bars, adjustable spring plates. The car is lowered, but far far from extreme. Tyres are 155 15 on the front and 195/65 15 on the rear. I've been running it with standard shocks and just changed to the GAZ adjustable ones. I have these set on the softest setting front and seven clicks harder on the rear. Seems better but its not as good as I would like.
Thoughts on improving this would be much appreciated.
Steve

 85 
 on: August 24, 2025, 09:30:08 am 
Started by benssp - Last post by richie
I was talking to Eric Ballard last week and asked him about his lightweight car he ran in the late 80s.
He said he removed all the double skinning from the inside, such that you couldn't tell from outside that the car had been gutted.

In his gearbox, he lightened many of the parts.  He core drilled the mainshaft (but not past 2nd gear)  He said he removed over 1.1 kg from the ring gear alone.  The gears were narrowed and drilled.  I think he said the axles were drilled too.

The end result was that he had a drag car that weighed under 450kg without driver.  And that included a roll cage and wheelie bars.  And all steel body panels.


Hi Bruce

I now own this car, and it may have been that light but its definitely not all steel Wink

cheers Richie

 86 
 on: August 20, 2025, 08:52:49 am 
Started by dames - Last post by dames
Now sold Grin

 87 
 on: August 18, 2025, 06:45:03 am 
Started by Leif Nyström - Last post by Leif Nyström
94mm Pauter Super Pro crankshaft, 351 mains std journal. 2.100" rod journal, fresh .010" grind on rod journal.
Isotropic superfinishing REM polish.
1800 euro

 88 
 on: August 17, 2025, 19:48:40 pm 
Started by tpb_karl - Last post by tpb_karl
So back in the garage after a week on vacation. Of course, I managed to do a little shopping at Custom & Speedparts in Hyllinge! Always a pleasure to visit that store!
An 8-dowel 69mm crankshaft ala CB-performance. Perfect for the upcoming "mouse-motor" 36mm, big washer chromoly gland nut, Schadek 26mm oil pump plugged for full-flow, and a few other bits and pieces.


Some pictures from the store:




Back home, the first thing on the list was to check the new piston rings, file the ones that needed it, and lap the piston against its respective sealing surface in the heads.



Once that was done, all pistons were mounted in the cylinders, ready to drop into the case.



During the week, I read "How to rebuild your aircooled VW engine", where it mentioned that exhaust valves commonly drop a valve head from the stem when worn. Since new valves were so cheap, I replaced all the exhaust valves.


With that done, it was just a matter of putting together a longblock.



I can't recommend the black valve cover bails. They were almost a centimeter too short for the valve cover. So I had to use the shabby originals. I’ve used chrome bails before and they’ve worked just fine.



Both sides done and a new oil cooler in place.


New gasket in the oil filler cap…



It’s starting to look more and more like an engine!


But here I ran into trouble…



Some aluminum hose from a local hardware store solved it.




Once on the ground, the endplay was set to about 0.14 mm (same shims as before), and a new rear main seal was installed.



New clutch disc since the old one was completely worn out. The engine was filled with oil and was now ready to be mounted in the car!



But before that, both heater cables were replaced since they had been cut… (One end of the cable is slightly longer than the other. That one goes on the car’s left side.)



Some other preparations before the engine goes in. New seals in the engine bay.


Fuel hose with aluminum filter holder.


A REALLY serious repair of one of the heater boxes with chemical metal… Budget version, deluxe...
With that, it was time to drop in the engine!


It went in so easily! Very easy when you’re two people and use a motorcycle jack. After that, wires, fuel hoses, and heater connections were hooked up.



I also finally got to install the stainless steel tailpipes. Mmm shiny…


To start the engine, we need fuel. So the fuel tank came out and got scrubbed underneath. Also blew out the worst of the dirt.



Quickly cleaned up under the trunk and installed the tank with a new rubber hose underneath. Also a new gas cap and a new gasket under the fuel sender.



The next step is power to run the starter motor so I can test start the car. The battery terminal looked like it had seen better days, to say the least…


With new cables and terminals to the battery, it was just a matter of turning the key. I removed all fuses except those for the coil and starter motor since the fenders aren’t mounted and the wires are hanging loose.



Unfortunately, no start! Even though the battery measured 6V, the voltage drop was too great to turn the starter. The battery is junk and a new one is ordered… (Yes, I WILL convert to 12V..)
A local club member came by with a spare starter motor which sounded much better than the old unit… So that went in! He also helped me do a rough wheel alignment on the front end.


Oh, how close I was to taking a test drive today! But next weekend I’ll probably be able to take a proper test drive, and then it’s getting close to inspection if everything goes as planned.

 89 
 on: August 14, 2025, 20:23:31 pm 
Started by tpb_karl - Last post by tpb_karl
Enjoyed watching your videos! Was it more work making them or more work repairing your Beetle?
Nice job... thank you!

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoy them!
The editing sure make the hours go by like crazy  Cheesy
But it is nothing compared to the hours spent in the garage  Grin

 90 
 on: August 13, 2025, 20:33:25 pm 
Started by Jussifin - Last post by Jussifin
Found🤩🤩

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