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Author Topic: Fastest i can go  (Read 6643 times)
Peter
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« on: August 25, 2009, 19:17:44 pm »

Hi guys,
I was wondering....
what would be the goal ET for a stock bodied beetle with 2276, web 86 c , wedgeports , and stock gears?
This year at EBI I ran a best of 14.3, but with a lot of wheelhop, and it felt slow Smiley
I know its difficult to say, but what do you think is possible ( only using 3 gears )?
BTW, what should the AFR be at full load?

thanks! Peter
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2009, 20:01:37 pm »

I'd say high 12's is about maxed out, good luck getting there Wink
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Peter
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« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2009, 11:23:38 am »

WOW thats fast,
I would allready be happy with low 13s Smiley
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type3guy
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« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2009, 02:32:10 am »

i would install a traction bar to stop the frame horns from moving. it will make a big differance. if you can weld i can tell you how to make the bar cheap that you can preload. What carbs are you running?
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Peter
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« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2009, 08:36:52 am »

Please do tell me Smiley
Jelle and me were allready thinking about making one of those...( its the bar  like CSP sells right ?)
I am running 48 mm throttle bodies right now, but I am thinking of installing venturies in them to
enhance midrange power...

cheers, Peter
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Bewitched666
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Bewitched


« Reply #5 on: August 27, 2009, 11:40:32 am »

Gauge your tires,it would help at the launch too Grin
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richie
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« Reply #6 on: August 27, 2009, 12:19:15 pm »

Peter,
the track at EBI proberly doesnt give a true reflection of performance,it is quite tricky to get traction,with some practice and more seat time you should easily see mid 13s with your set up,definately need to cure that wheel hop though or you trans will not last long,then you can get the power down properly and see your times improve more Smiley

cheers richie,uk
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Jason Foster
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« Reply #7 on: August 27, 2009, 15:47:55 pm »

I'd agree with Zach.   13.00 should be not hard at all, on radials a little hard but on slicks high 12's.
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Peter
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« Reply #8 on: August 27, 2009, 18:07:28 pm »

Thanks guys!
now i have a target Smiley
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type3guy
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« Reply #9 on: August 28, 2009, 07:01:19 am »

take off your shock bolt nuts. Cut a peice of 3/16 and drill a hole to fit shock bolt. Reinstall nut. Cut a peice of 1 and 1/2" tubing  cut the distance between the shock towers with proper angles at towers. weld the shock nuts to the plates and then weld the tube to the plates at the shock towers. Now cut some 1/4" plate and drill hole to fit the frame bolt through with about 3" of material above frame horn. this peice will get bent at an angle after you make the bars from the tube down to the frame horn. cut and weld a peice of 1/4" plate like a triangle and this will get welded to the cross tube. you will need some right and left theaded clevis pins or heim joints. you will also need some 1/2 tubing to make the tubes from cross bar to frame horn. it will be easier to get the weld in bungs for the clevis pins to weld into the 1/2" tubing. After all welded up bend the the frame horn peices and bolt in the bars and set preload and lock down. To see a pic or buy their bar go to http://eyeball-engineering.net/TorqueBar.html . All together this will cost about $80 to $90 and half day or so of work and no more wheel hop.
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Peter
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« Reply #10 on: August 28, 2009, 16:53:24 pm »

Thanks Man!
Seems not too difficult to make...
Just got to find the clevis parts somewhere around here...
this looks like a good alternative:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/an665.php

do you have to set preload by pulling or pushing towards the framehorns?

cheers, Peter
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sam P
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« Reply #11 on: August 28, 2009, 21:43:23 pm »

Hey Peter, what was your top speed and 60foot time on that 14.3 run? And at what RPM did you shift?

I made this simple traction bar for my car.
I run it together with a mid gearbox mount plus a traction bar under the back of the engine. No wheelhop whatsoever, just spins the tires and goes.

But maybe it's too low-tech for you.  Grin
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Peter
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« Reply #12 on: August 28, 2009, 22:39:36 pm »

Hey Sam,
that looks really good!
off course i would make it in titanium detailed with gold plated nuts  Grin
it would fit my german look real nice, wouldn't it? Smiley
I cant find my timeslips anywhere, but the 60ft times were not that good,
thats something i remember Smiley
i shifted at about 7500, i think the engine didnt perform 100% either, throttles opening only 70% and full load higher rpm mixture was too lean,
it seems to pull harder now from lets say 4000 since i changed those things,
so maybe in bitburg a bit faster Smiley

see you, Peter
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LGK
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« Reply #13 on: August 28, 2009, 23:23:54 pm »

Hey Sam,
that looks really good!
off course i would make it in titanium detailed with gold plated nuts  Grin
it would fit my german look real nice, wouldn't it? Smiley
I cant find my timeslips anywhere, but the 60ft times were not that good,
thats something i remember Smiley
i shifted at about 7500, i think the engine didnt perform 100% either, throttles opening only 70% and full load higher rpm mixture was too lean,
it seems to pull harder now from lets say 4000 since i changed those things,
so maybe in bitburg a bit faster Smiley

see you, Peter



Peter,

You NEED DYNO-TIME buddy Grin Grin Grin
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Peter
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« Reply #14 on: September 21, 2009, 19:35:34 pm »

Hey Guys,
came back from DDD with a 13.8
Me happy Smiley
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richie
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« Reply #15 on: September 22, 2009, 00:02:49 am »

Well done Smiley

all your hard work is now paying off Smiley

cheers richie,uk
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Peter
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« Reply #16 on: September 22, 2009, 09:15:20 am »

Thanks Richie Grin
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jamiep_jamiep
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« Reply #17 on: October 01, 2009, 09:08:57 am »

Into the 13's! Nice one Peter, there's only one way those time slips will head  Wink
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Peter
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« Reply #18 on: October 02, 2009, 18:11:53 pm »

Thanks man! Smiley
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