rear wheel cylinder question

[axam48ida]

has anyone used the type three rear wheel cylinders on 63 backing plates to get more rear braking?
going to the type three would keep the correct position of the brake shoes to the wheel cyl. and allow for the larger
piston diam.
you cannot use the early oval wheel cyl with the larger pistion bore due to it's designed for the narrower brake shoes

Any thoughts on this?

[Felix/DFL]

I only know it how it works on a 68 backing plate don`t know the differnce to before.
When you install a typ-3 wheel cyl. in an bug plate the air relief valve sits UNDER the supply line. So the air doesn`t come out.
One way is to remove the backing plate or wheel cylinder seperate and press the air out in upside-down position.

And I needed to notch the 40mm brake shoes a bit where the lay on the backing plate...

It seems that here are typ-3 weeks?! 

[nicolas]

i don't know if this works, but why not go for type3 bakes alltogether?
you will have more 'pedal' or squish, but not more brakes as the liners and drums will still be smaller.

[Neil Davies]

How about front wheel cylinders from a later beetle? They should keep the shoes lined up.

[Diederick/DVK]

aircooled.net sell super duper stopper rear wheel cylinders for us guys with larger diameter rear wheels. but essentially neil's suggestion is similar. wouldn't surprise me if ACN repackages front wheel cylinders 

[Torben Alstrup]

What car ? How much more stopping power is needed?

For "normal" beetles with 68- on drums  and discs at the front, I use Porsche 924 (19 mm) which are bolt on apart from you need to chamfer the edge of the body to fit the backing plate. OR rear cylinders from 58-64 (19,5mm) But then you have to make an intermediate plate of about 2,5 mm. to align it to the shoe.
If you REALLY need more stopping pressure at the rear, you can take a 22mm cylinder from the ront of a 68- on with drum brakes. I often use those on buggies with big heavy rear tyres and skinny fronts
T