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Author Topic: Rear type 3 drum brakes (4x130)  (Read 11146 times)
Diederick/DVK
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« on: December 28, 2006, 13:29:15 pm »

hola,

my rear drums are getting a little crusty, and hence need replacement.
so i figured, why not see if anyone has a set of type 3 drums lying around.

i am looking for the 4x130 pattern.

thanks,
Diederick
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Diederick
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« Reply #1 on: December 28, 2006, 17:12:08 pm »

If your car still has the original '67 axles you will need to machine .550" off of the snout of a T3 drum so they fit your short splines correctly. Also, you need the T3 backing plates as well.
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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #2 on: December 28, 2006, 17:37:11 pm »

If your car still has the original '67 axles you will need to machine .550" off of the snout of a T3 drum so they fit your short splines correctly. Also, you need the T3 backing plates as well.

zach, you mean to fit the 36mm axle nut?
and yeah need the backing plates as well  Roll Eyes

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Diederick
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« Reply #3 on: December 28, 2006, 21:31:00 pm »

Also, if I remember correctly, type III 4x130 drums are 2 piece. There's a hub that bolts to the axle and then the drum bolts to the hub.
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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2006, 22:12:21 pm »

i take it you mean this:


have many done this already? or is the increase in braking power not that significant?
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Diederick
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #5 on: December 29, 2006, 02:50:16 am »

It is a very worthwhile upgrade.
Your '67 has short splined axles, T3's have long splines. If you dont shave .550" off the snout the axle nut wont go down far enough to put the cotter pin in.
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Jordy/DVK
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« Reply #6 on: December 31, 2006, 15:03:34 pm »


 Does my October '67 (model 68) have the same short rear axle?
 
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« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2006, 16:28:36 pm »

I do this on every car I own.  With discs, this makes for a really good stopping car.
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2006, 18:41:38 pm »


 Does my October '67 (model 68) have the same short rear axle?
 

'68s Beetles had long axles with long splines, same as swingaxle type 3's.
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thehanz DVK
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« Reply #9 on: January 09, 2007, 20:14:25 pm »

i take it you mean this:


have many done this already? or is the increase in braking power not that significant?


within a week or three i have a full set available if you still want them, at this time funtioning om my
notch just send a pm
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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #10 on: March 28, 2007, 09:08:35 am »

alright, i've got em now.

i was just looking at em and now i wonder, does anyone know if and how much track width they will add to my rear?
i'm actually already at my max, so i'm hoping they don't...

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Diederick
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« Reply #11 on: March 28, 2007, 14:53:31 pm »

They will add some, but Im not exactly sure how much. I know you dont want to hear this, but you should probably switch to short axles.
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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #12 on: March 28, 2007, 16:58:17 pm »

Yeah, i was just looking and the drum is quite a fair bit wider and thicker...

But i'll have to pull the gearbox for that right?
And if so, i'll probably install those enforced sideplates as well. Or whatever they're called...

Any idea of the costs  Roll Eyes

p.s. i do have to say the pic i added does show a bit of an oversize image of the rear wheels - i just liked the good/year letters  Grin , but generally they don't tuck in at all. the wheels are as wide as the fenders if not a few mm wider.  Roll Eyes
« Last Edit: March 28, 2007, 22:59:19 pm by 67-indeed/DVK » Logged

Diederick
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« Reply #13 on: March 28, 2007, 18:34:05 pm »

And what do you need to modify when you want to put 5x205 type 3 drums on a 66 Bug with short axles?
Does it work well with stock master cylinder?
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« Reply #14 on: March 29, 2007, 05:23:35 am »

And what do you need to modify when you want to put 5x205 type 3 drums on a 66 Bug with short axles?
Does it work well with stock master cylinder?

Same. The snout of the drum needs to be machined down .550"to accept the cotter pin. They will work great with the stock master.
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mychatype3
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« Reply #15 on: April 25, 2007, 15:56:15 pm »

I have them "no problem" Grin
Greetz Mycha Jesaijes

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« Reply #16 on: April 25, 2007, 21:57:43 pm »

And what do you need to modify when you want to put 5x205 type 3 drums on a 66 Bug with short axles?
Does it work well with stock master cylinder?

Same. The snout of the drum needs to be machined down .550"to accept the cotter pin. They will work great with the stock master.

Is the backing plate for type 3   4x130 & 5x205 the same ?
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« Reply #17 on: April 25, 2007, 22:51:29 pm »

Thay are Different but will  Work The Main Difference is the 4 lug have Brake adjusting holes in the Back of the backing plate The 5 lug you adjust threw the front of the Drum  you can use 4 or 5 lug drums with late 4 lug backing plates but if you have 5 lug backing plates you can only use them with 5 lug drums inless you want to Drill Adjusting holes in the backing plate
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« Reply #18 on: April 26, 2007, 16:53:27 pm »

Thay are Different but will  Work The Main Difference is the 4 lug have Brake adjusting holes in the Back of the backing plate The 5 lug you adjust threw the front of the Drum  you can use 4 or 5 lug drums with late 4 lug backing plates but if you have 5 lug backing plates you can only use them with 5 lug drums inless you want to Drill Adjusting holes in the backing plate

Great news!  thanks

I have 4lug backing plates...  now all i have to do is order 5x205 T3 drums, and then have them machined 0,550" down.
Then I´m ready to bolt em on my short axles - right ?
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« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2007, 23:28:11 pm »

Yep Thats It!
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« Reply #20 on: April 27, 2007, 21:02:34 pm »

I  roughly measured a T3 drum vs a small T1 drum.....  track increase - app. 14mm pr. side

Is this right ?

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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #21 on: April 28, 2007, 12:11:24 pm »

ouch, i was guessing it to be 1.5 cm too...
this is too much for me  Undecided

how much shorter are short axles?
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Diederick
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« Reply #22 on: April 28, 2007, 17:18:55 pm »

ouch, i was guessing it to be 1.5 cm too...
this is too much for me  Undecided

how much shorter are short axles?

About 1 1/8" on each side... 28.6mm
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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #23 on: April 28, 2007, 20:53:05 pm »

wow, so i will still end up narrower than right now...

if only it weren't such a hell of a job to switch those axles  Embarrassed
and of course i'd want to upgrade some parts of the 'box then as well...
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Diederick
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« Reply #24 on: April 28, 2007, 23:35:37 pm »

Once the gearbox is out, it really isnt that hard. I was intimidated by the job until I actually tried it. Just make sure the axles go back on the side they came off of, and you have the freeplay set up right (adjust by stacking gaskets under the side covers).
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« Reply #25 on: April 29, 2007, 14:18:45 pm »

the sooner the box breaks the sooner i will have to get out...
such a hassle  Tongue

well the car is at the painter now anyhow, i have no wheels to roll on  Cool
just an engine to dress up  Smiley
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nicolas
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« Reply #26 on: April 29, 2007, 14:33:23 pm »

maybe i can shime in on this one also...

just found out that the squareback has slightly bigger pistons for the brakes as a fast or notchback. so i would always opt for that one. and for the mastercylinder, the one i have on my european 67 model was a 19 mm single circuit one and works fine with disks up front and drums at the back. i think the rearcylinders are not quite the problem as they are quite small and don't use a lot more oil, disks might use a little more in my opinion. but any dualmastercylinder will do. i have not a lot of pedaltravelif i gat all the air out of the system.

as for the with they are a bit wider, but i won't be more than 10mm. as the drums are bigger, but not a lot wider than those of a beetle. otherwise short axles and as said before machining them. there was an article in vwtrends about it (not sure which one) but one of the last years.

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