Rear suspension upgrades

[Rocket Ron]

I currently have traction bar, gearbox mid mount, type 2 snubers and spax shocks all round. Everything else is stock

has anyone some advice on upgrades to improve my drag starts, the car seems to bog down real deep so I was thinking an upgrade on torsion bars may be an idea

Any suggestions would be welcomed

Regards Ron

[leec]

Hi Ron,

Are the shocks adjustable? My Konis are on hardest setting.

What's the gap like between the bus snubber and the bump stop on the chassis?
I don't run uprated torsion bars but your car is heavier I guess?

Lee

[BeetleBug]

Hi Ron,

I managed to get my 60ft down to 1.56 with stock suspension, bus snubbers and MH dot tires. Yes, it compressed the rear a lot so I mounted double adjustable Koni's and it helped. The problem with the bus snubbers is the bounce you get when they unload and this can cause traction problems. You want smooth movement and the car forward while the rear want to go down then bounce up. On my new car I have 28mm SAW torsions, urethan rubber both sides, Koni's, mid mount and this is a new world. Combined with a well working clutch my 60ft dropped to 1.42 which is my best ever. It is all a balance between clutch, suspension, HP and traction.

Best rgs
BB

I currently have traction bar, gearbox mid mount, type 2 snubers and spax shocks all round. Everything else is stock

has anyone some advice on upgrades to improve my drag starts, the car seems to bog down real deep so I was thinking an upgrade on torsion bars may be an idea

Any suggestions would be welcomed

Regards Ron

[richie]

2 step and the right clutch set up,it can be that simple

cheers richie

[BeetleBug]

2 step and the right clutch set up,it can be that simple

cheers richie

Agree. On the picture below you see my car leaving the lights with approx 1 bar of boost and the parts mentioned above. I tried leaving the line with a lot more boost and on a strip with better traction and it bottomed out completely dragging the oil sump.

BB

[Rocket Ron]

thanks for the replys

how does the two step work, sorry don't know much about it

[richie]

Its a 2nd rev limiter,you set it below you main rpm limiter,I have mine on a switch off the handbrake,same in Jo's car,so you stage with one bulb on,make sure you are in 1st gear,pull up the handbrake enough to hold the car still and then using the clutch pull the car forward slightly to lite the 2nd yellow bulb,you can then put your throttle to the floor and the 2step limiter will hold it at that rpm until you release the handbrake.you can hear a car on the 2 step,sounds almost like it is missing[which it is as the limiter is cutting spark on random cylinders to hold the rpm down,sometimes fuel as well,on a turbo car sometimes you take some timing out while on the 2 step, this helps build boost as well which helps launch better & prevent the car bogging,

cheers richie

[Rocket Ron]

What clutch would you recommend ?

[richie]

Normal N/A,a stage 2 and a super daikin works really well to low 11s depending onwieght of car,lots of success using that in a variety of cars
After that it gets expensive and complicated,every application needs something slightly different

cheers richie

[andy198712]

Two step, AKA launch control yh?

[Lids]

some ignition modules have two step built in, like this: http://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/6861M/10002/-1

[dragvw2180]

 Is your engine a N/A or has it got a power adder ?   Probably everyone on here will have a differant opinion of what is needed or not, here is what I have on mine. I have a full roll cage , supports the chassis from the beam back to the engine mount. If you are going to go faster than stock it will make your car safer and more tunable chassis wise. I have a turbo car so I upgraded my torsion bars to 30mm , installed adjustable torsion plates and secured them with aluminum torsion covers with bronze bushings which did away with the rubber grommets. Under acceleration my axles will not toe out or in enough to notice making the car more predictable. I removed the snubbers and control my suspension travel with my QA1 double adjustable shocks, set at 11 compression and 14 rebound. I have a RLR REV6 clutch setup which takes the shock out my launch and allows the suspension to do its job. My travel at the shocks is about 2.5 inches leaving at 5600 on the 2 step under boost. Is all this needed, depends on how fast or hard you are leaving the line. I would try to buy your parts and think about your future performance goals while buying them. With this setup I did 1.35 60 fts ( 6.45 1/8th }  last race and did NOT do a burnout all day. Is this the best setup, no I am sure it isn't but it is working for me. Richie and others can chime in here and I am sure they have better setups than me,  hope this helps,   Mike McCarthy