Valve Springs?

[andy198712]

What would you all use and what installed height ect for this engine.

2180, daily driven ish. in the UK

CB044  40x35 valves

engle FK8 cam

bugpack forged 1.4's


i'm guessing dual springs but which ones? or the honey comb ones?

All the best

Andy

[andy198712]

forgot to add, i wont be racing it. wont see more then 6-6.5k ever and even that rarely (he says)

[TexasTom]

Is the valve stem height not already set?
What are the rest of the valvetrain components ... lifters, pushrods, retainers, etc.? It all adds up! LOL

TxT

[henk]

i have a set springs for sale.
i never used them they where in the heads that i bought but had to change them with cb vw650

henk!!!

[andy198712]

Is the valve stem height not already set?
What are the rest of the valvetrain components ... lifters, pushrods, retainers, etc.? It all adds up! LOL

TxT

I thought spring height was when you shim the springs? I may be way off lol
Cb Bigfoot lifters, yet to buy pushrods but will be hd Alu, and the retainers are the cb ones, chromoly I think they are, again cb single groove collets,
Hoover mods and will probably drill a small hole in the pushrods to act as oil squirters.

Dry sump, crank Fired ignition, EFI.......

Hope that helps

[richie]

The cam seems a little big for that rpm,with it I would be shifting about 6800/7000rpm,you may need to machine the valve guide and boss down a little but will only know that when you roll it over to find lift at the valve,unless you go with some exotic spring combo then a vw dual will work,the CB VW650 seems to be working well,and they seem to last better than alot of cheaper VW duals,and if you are going the lighter route with ally pushrods then spend a little more on the retainers and get the Ti version.
I will keep my opinion on 92s and bigfoot lifters to myself though

cheers richie

[andy198712]

The cam seems a little big for that rpm,with it I would be shifting about 6800/7000rpm,you may need to machine the valve guide and boss down a little but will only know that when you roll it over to find lift at the valve,unless you go with some exotic spring combo then a vw dual will work,the CB VW650 seems to be working well,and they seem to last better than alot of cheaper VW duals,and if you are going the lighter route with ally pushrods then spend a little more on the retainers and get the Ti version.
I will keep my opinion on 92s and bigfoot lifters to myself though

cheers richie

Thanks richie,
If budget allows near the end of the build I may switch to tool steel lifters, I just got the big foots cheap tbh. And the only down side seems to be a little extra weight that will be voided by the Alu push rods.
I want to use Alu purely for the reduced noise, not so much for weight saving.

Do you think it's worth getting Ti parts on a daily?

I already have the dual springs that came on the cb heads, they have 1000 miles on them and when I live them up they are different heights..... So I'm guessing there junk?

With the rpm range. I guess I always like to have a little extra to call on now and again when the mood takes me, much like the power delivery on my ZX9R nice power and great for riding, and always has that massive reserve of power should I be in the mood

I'll get a picture of my current springs and you can see what I mean.

Thanks

Andy

[TexasTom]

If the valves aren't lining up in their heights ... That's a problem! Something wrong with the valve job or a seat (big surprise!).

ANYTHING you can affors to use that will lighten the valvetrain without sacrificing reliability is a good thing.

TxT

[Neil Davies]

I will keep my opinion on 92s and bigfoot lifters to myself though

cheers richie

I wondered about the 92's myself! Andy, why the 92mm pistons? If you've had no machining work yet then you may as well go for 94's, but if the work has been done then put in 90.5's - they're the same size holes in the case and head IIRC. That'll give you 2110cc, but the thicker wall barrels will be better for a regularly driven street car. 2110 might be better suited for the valve sizes too, although rpm will really be the limiting factor.

[andy198712]

If the valves aren't lining up in their heights ... That's a problem! Something wrong with the valve job or a seat (big surprise!).

ANYTHING you can affors to use that will lighten the valvetrain without sacrificing reliability is a good thing.

TxT

Duely noted about the weight saving, am I right in thinking it will raise the rev limit before valve float ?

I wasn't very clear, when the springs are removed from the head, lined up on the table, I can see they are slightly different heights.  If that makes sense?

Thanks

[andy198712]

I will keep my opinion on 92s and bigfoot lifters to myself though

cheers richie

I wondered about the 92's myself! Andy, why the 92mm pistons? If you've had no machining work yet then you may as well go for 94's, but if the work has been done then put in 90.5's - they're the same size holes in the case and head IIRC. That'll give you 2110cc, but the thicker wall barrels will be better for a regularly driven street car. 2110 might be better suited for the valve sizes too, although rpm will really be the limiting factor.

Hello,
The heads and cases are 90.5 so wanted to stay at that.
I do actually have some used 90.5's but I really need to check them out, missing the odd fin too.
I gt the Mahles 92's new cheap, and thought the forged 92's would e better then the 90.5 which I'm guessing are cast? (any way to check?)

How long would the 92's last do you think?

I know they used to be the hot setup but.....

Can you explain the RPM bit? I guessed I'd rev it to those numbers just as I guessed that where it would sign off and for engine longevity ?

I'm totally open to opinions and ideas, I'm very much on a learning curve

Thank you very much for the input, it's very helpful!!

[andy198712]

well, i think i'm going to sell my 92's  in favour of the 90.5s....