Hydraulic clutch management

[Tufty65]

I'm putting together some parts for hydraulic clutch management by use of a bondio line lock and a flow control valve etc,
The valve I have is rated up to 250 bar which is massive for a clutch so I was just wondering if it will work at relatively low pedal pressures?
What valves do people use or will this one be suitable?
Thanks
Simon.

[oilyT]

Interested in this to as about to put together a shopping list.      Have heard that a line lock solenoid dosen't  flow well enough for  clutch management is this true?.  

[BeetleBug]

Hi guys,

I have used quite a lot of time to get my clutch management system to work and this is what I have learned over the years;

1) Match master and slave. Very important.
2) Use a quality master and make sure you buy spare seals and rebuild kits for it

There you have the basics that will save you time and money in the long run.

Then how to delay the clutch return:

Most needle valves that work/fits are made for more pressure than we create with our systems. Result; you have a tiny window (like 1mm or so) of adjustment between too much clutch and a slipping clutch. I tried 3 needle valves until I found one that worked and it only worked after I have tweaked other parts of my system. And yes, I also found that the solenoid created too much restriction. I changed it to a cheap JEGS solenoid that I opened up quite a bit and the problem was solved. Now I had a system with a adjustable return but when I applied too much restriction with the needle valve it killed the seals in the master. So what I did was to shorten the clutch release arm quite a bit and that was what made my system work. I`m using a KEP 4 but the pedal is still nice and soft. With the system as described above I have one whole turn on the needle valve from no delay to a locked clutch arm.

Below is basically how my system looks like today. This is with the solenoid I used before I replaced it with the one from JEGS. This solenoid did not manage to seal after I had opened it up. I have mounted it so that the wheel of the needle valve is placed just in front of my gearshifter. The solenoid is triggered by a switch mounted at the base of the shifter so that it is only trigged when I`m in first gear:



Best rgs
BB

[BeetleBug]

And it looks like this inside my car, see the yellow. And NO, I`m NOT the guy wearing Crocs!



Best rgs
BB

[bedjo78]

Hi BB

What size is the master cylinder ? I used 5/8" master and slave from CNC but with JG clutch. It is too heavy on pedal.

[BeetleBug]

Hi BB

What size is the master cylinder ? I used 5/8" master and slave from CNC but with JG clutch. It is too heavy on pedal.

Mine is also 5/8" It is strange that you a heavy pedal with a 5/8" master since it usually should creates a soft, long throw pedal compared to a 3/4". Again, matching with the slave is important. And you will get a heavy pedal if you have a restriction somewhere like a tiny hole in a linelock.

Best rgs
BB

[bedjo78]

I will check restriction on line lock you mentioned.  Thanks

[Tufty65]

Hi guys,

I have used quite a lot of time to get my clutch management system to work and this is what I have learned over the years;

1) Match master and slave. Very important.
2) Use a quality master and make sure you buy spare seals and rebuild kits for it

There you have the basics that will save you time and money in the long run.

Then how to delay the clutch return:

Most needle valves that work/fits are made for more pressure than we create with our systems. Result; you have a tiny window (like 1mm or so) of adjustment between too much clutch and a slipping clutch. I tried 3 needle valves until I found one that worked and it only worked after I have tweaked other parts of my system. And yes, I also found that the solenoid created too much restriction. I changed it to a cheap JEGS solenoid that I opened up quite a bit and the problem was solved. Now I had a system with a adjustable return but when I applied too much restriction with the needle valve it killed the seals in the master. So what I did was to shorten the clutch release arm quite a bit and that was what made my system work. I`m using a KEP 4 but the pedal is still nice and soft. With the system as described above I have one whole turn on the needle valve from no delay to a locked clutch arm.

Below is basically how my system looks like today. This is with the solenoid I used before I replaced it with the one from JEGS. This solenoid did not manage to seal after I had opened it up. I have mounted it so that the wheel of the needle valve is placed just in front of my gearshifter. The solenoid is triggered by a switch mounted at the base of the shifter so that it is only trigged when I`m in first gear:



Best rgs
BB

Looks like I've just wasted a few quid then as that old line lock looks like a biondo line lock which was recommend to me for hydraulic clutch management which is what I've got, plus I guess my valve is useless too as its a high pressure one? Where did your valve come from ?
Going to be trial and error on this one I think !

[broen messiaen]

hello,
I'm also busy making the clutch management on my car for the moment.

what do you guys use to tell the line lock to close?
just a normal button that you push when you want to use it? or a microswitch that is being activated by the gear selector?
any pics of that would be helpfull.

thanks!

[Tufty65]

hello,
I'm also busy making the clutch management on my car for the moment.

what do you guys use to tell the line lock to close?
just a normal button that you push when you want to use it? or a microswitch that is being activated by the gear selector?
any pics of that would be helpfull.

thanks!

As I'm using mine for first gear I will have a micro switch on the 1st gear shift rod (vertigate).
I already have too many other buttons to press!