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Author Topic: Eastwood's Lead Free Body Solder  (Read 2397 times)
louisb
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« on: June 23, 2008, 19:36:18 pm »

Anyone use this before. I just ordered on of the basic kits and plan to check it out. Looking for any tips or comments on it. Never played with metal body solder, read lead, before. Should be interesting to work with.

--louis
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2008, 21:58:30 pm »

Bought the same kit some years ago, and it worked for me.
Harry
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Shubee2 (DSK)
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« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2008, 00:32:51 am »

I bought a Box of New Old Stock 50/50 LEAD on E Bay The Real Deal cant get it anymore  going to use it on my 58 Ragtop Grin
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louisb
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« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2008, 00:52:23 am »

I thought about using real lead, but I figure I am crazy enough as it is without adding lead poisoning to the mix. Plus you are supposed to be able to powdercoat the Lead free solder. Plan to try it on my Type 181 fan shroud.

--louis
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Louis Brooks

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Neil Davies
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« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2008, 09:20:20 am »

This is the kit I've been playing with. Got a cheap aluminium frying pan to melt the tallow in (simply because it was a flat metal dish with a handle!), my blow torch and a couple of extra body files and paddles. The paddle I'm looking forward to using is a stanless steel one a friend made - he's used a couple of them for a few years and prefers it to the wooden ones. If the files are too "grippy", rub them acros your bench vice to take the edge off the teeth. My favourites were given too me by another friend and are several years old. Got a flat one with a regular type handle and a curved one with the holes to fit it into one of the adjustable frames.

Biggest tip - watch the solder! when it starts to go shiny, its hot enough!
Tip number two, get some of that Cold Front stuff - it really works! Wink
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louisb
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« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2008, 14:38:14 pm »

Thanks for the input Neil. It looks like it will be interesting to work with lead. (Or fake lead in this case)

--louis
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Louis Brooks

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danny gabbard
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« Reply #6 on: June 25, 2008, 03:54:08 am »

clean the fricken tinning compound and then clean the tinning compound !!!!! metal prep then baken soda and water then start leading, from the bottom , up , heat rise's, use rosebud for heating and heat as large of a area as posible. and don't have your room mate's bug next to you when paddleing the lead, HIGH bill LOL. use bee's wax on paddle's or tranny fluid. wood paddle's work just fine, WEAR partical mask when shapeing with grinder, before filling with vixon file, leave it sharp. keep everything clean after each step. acid's in tinning compound can come back to fricken HAUNT you!!!!!!! O by the way leading SUCKS !!!!!!!!!
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