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| | |-+  Installing or resetting the torsion bars.
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Author Topic: Installing or resetting the torsion bars.  (Read 4515 times)
Harry/FDK
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« on: November 30, 2008, 17:38:20 pm »

Is there any other way then: install as close as possible, then bang, damage, and (over) torque
the damn things into final position ?

Thankx !!!
« Last Edit: November 30, 2008, 17:49:03 pm by FDK/Hurry » Logged

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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2008, 20:55:31 pm »

Thanks for replies (NOT). I got the job done, the usual way.

I went from 21 mm (Mex) to 24 mm Torsion bars. The wheels are now tucked in badly by 6cm in the bottom.
What do you guys suggest ? One outher spline ?

Thanks.
Harry
« Last Edit: December 01, 2008, 22:17:15 pm by FDK/Hurry » Logged

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Sander/DVK
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WWW
« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2008, 21:41:58 pm »

I think 2 inner spline. That must something about 6-7cm.
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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
donder
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« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2008, 21:55:02 pm »

hey hurry, how exactly did you get it done?
I have to install some springplates one of these days and would like to know the exact way of mounting them so that they are in the original spot.

thx in advance

Philip
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Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2008, 21:57:42 pm »

First of all .. Buy "Bodengruppe- Therapie". Then Read, Read, Read...
Let me know after if you need help.
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nicolas
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« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2008, 23:21:01 pm »

how about not using the red stuff?

i never seemed to have had problems with the original (OG for cornpanzer) rubbers.
i did however use a modified original jack to lift the plates over the ridge. i'll try to post some pics off that. nothing special really.
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WhiteTrash
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« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2008, 23:42:43 pm »


"The wheels are now tucked in badly by 6cm in the bottom.
What do you guys suggest ? One outher spline ?"

"how exactly did you get it done?
I have to inThe stall some springplates one of these days and would like to know the exact way of mounting them so that they are in the original spot."

[/quote]

Get yourself a magnetic anglefinder and a Haynes or other VW manual with the correct suspension settings. They tell you how to work out the degrees and splines the spring plates should be for the correct ride height. 1 spline on one side of the bars is 8 degrees 30, 1 on the other 9 degrees i think.
That way you get the exact angle on both sides and no guesstimation necessary.
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Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2008, 12:31:38 pm »

Thanks WT. I just bought the right tool to lift the springplates.
My problem is that i went from 21 mm to 24 mm torsion bars. So it will be trial and error
to find the right height.

Thanx again.
Harry
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richie
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« Reply #8 on: December 02, 2008, 13:45:48 pm »

if you set them with zero preload,so that they just slide on by hand and rest on the stop it will be very close,thats were I have mine set at,and I use inner and outer splines for the adjustment

cheers richie,uk
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BeetleBug
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« Reply #9 on: December 02, 2008, 13:48:11 pm »

if you set them with zero preload,so that they just slide on by hand and rest on the stop it will be very close,thats were I have mine set at,and I use inner and outer splines for the adjustment

cheers richie,uk

Same here but I`m using 28mm sway aways. Zero preload, just barely slides over the stop. BUT, I do think it is still a little on the high side and will adjust it so that it is around 1/4" above the stop.

Best rgs
BB, Norway
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richie
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« Reply #10 on: December 02, 2008, 16:44:22 pm »

if you set them with zero preload,so that they just slide on by hand and rest on the stop it will be very close,thats were I have mine set at,and I use inner and outer splines for the adjustment

cheers richie,uk

Same here but I`m using 28mm sway aways. Zero preload, just barely slides over the stop. BUT, I do think it is still a little on the high side and will adjust it so that it is around 1/4" above the stop.

Best rgs
BB, Norway

If you bolt a lot of extra junk on there like turbo,wastegate,chargecooler etc it will sit fine Cheesy

cheers richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #11 on: December 02, 2008, 16:49:37 pm »

THANKS Guys. I have a light car (Mex), with almost no interiour. Also, as you can see in the pic,
these are the short (stiffer) bars. So i will try the zero preload method.
Cheers, Harry
« Last Edit: December 02, 2008, 17:16:25 pm by FDK/Hurry » Logged

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Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #12 on: December 02, 2008, 21:15:52 pm »

2 Outher teeth too low (Almost Hoodride). Tomorrow i go back to one tooth on the outside.
These Mex bugs have the inner tube-housing either welded sloppy or a little bit offset
compared to German floorpans. Anyway if the result is not satisfying i have to do it
the X-ray way... Inner and Outher. (at least i have the car sitting straight).
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Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #13 on: December 02, 2008, 22:38:38 pm »

I know i should have put this topic in: In Da Werks Section. But i was counting on the Racers input.
At least i got something usefull from WT, BB and Richie.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2008, 21:21:21 pm by FDK/Hurry » Logged

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Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #14 on: December 03, 2008, 21:20:54 pm »

Job Done. Thanks again BB and Richie. I learned a lot ! (BTW. With about 10mm Pre-Load)
« Last Edit: December 04, 2008, 18:33:45 pm by FDK/Hurry » Logged

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