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Author Topic: Parts Score  (Read 4891 times)
bugnut68
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« on: October 26, 2008, 09:07:46 am »

Okie, dokie.  So after passing on an Ebay stroker short block deal some time back (cast stroker crank, Engle FK-89 (used, yet), etc) I managed to find a bottom end deal in the form of a 1776cc AS41 case, counterweighted 8-dowelled 69mm crank, Engle 110 cam, chromeoly (from what I'm told) 12 lb flywheel.  At this point it appears the crank is standard on its journals, the mains are standard in the crank side but .060" on the (line bored) case.  I realize this case is getting up there at this point, but, in the name of all practicality, what is the limit?  And, if there's not much left to go for in the way of life, would this be a nice sweep the floor type of basis?

My '70 already has a rock solid 1776 combo, but I picked up these parts for $75 total, so I figured I can easily get my money back if I want to piece them out.  Oh yeah, also a set of stock VW rods in there.  The crank looks great, as does the flywheel, apparently the engine suffered a broken stock rocker shaft clip; case is also full flowed.
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2008, 22:14:34 pm »

Looks like a good deal to me! My old 1600 was .060" over, but I wouldn't go that far again.
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Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
Fastbrit
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« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2008, 23:17:07 pm »

Storming deal. Don't worry about the 0.060 line bore. In a street-driven car with a relatively mild motor, it'll last for as long as you need it. Even if you end up throwing away the case in a year or two, it's still a good deal.
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Der Kleiner Panzers VW Club    
12.56sec street-driven Cal Looker in 1995
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bugnut68
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« Reply #3 on: October 27, 2008, 16:39:49 pm »

I wasn't planning on building a super high mileage engine with this case, maybe a sweep the floor deal or something I can abuse in learning how to get faster on the track ;-)  No buyers remorse thus far. Grin
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2008, 16:47:52 pm »

watch the fit of the #1 main bearing (thrust). Depending on how far thrust was cut, you may need 2mm thrust bearings for that case. Even if it was cut 1mm, you may want to use 2mm bearing and trim in with a lathe to get a very tight crush.
Look into a good high volume pump too, i.e. Melling or 30mm....
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bugnut68
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« Reply #5 on: October 28, 2008, 03:24:28 am »

Good advice, Jim, I appreciate it.  Havne't even cleaned it up yet, so we'll see.  I know it's machined for full flow already, which is a nice touch.  I need to figure out what kind of crank I've got...as in brand, that is.
« Last Edit: October 28, 2008, 03:29:44 am by bugnut68 » Logged
bugnut68
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« Reply #6 on: October 29, 2008, 18:29:16 pm »

Crank is stamped with "LEPE" or something to that effect... any idea of the brand, possibly?  It's eight dowelled and cross-drilled, but aside from that I have no clue as to its origins.
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #7 on: October 29, 2008, 18:51:30 pm »

I think that is a Brazilian aftermarket, cast crank.
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benssp
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« Reply #8 on: October 29, 2008, 19:11:15 pm »

I think that is a Brazilian aftermarket, cast crank.

Correct, finest Brazillian casting Cheesy
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bugnut68
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« Reply #9 on: October 29, 2008, 19:31:35 pm »

How do these cranks hold up in the not highly abused category of engines?  I'm considering going the stroker route, but was also thinking of putting together a mild backup engine that wouldn't be flogged so much.
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #10 on: October 29, 2008, 19:43:43 pm »

How do these cranks hold up in the not highly abused category of engines?  I'm considering going the stroker route, but was also thinking of putting together a mild backup engine that wouldn't be flogged so much.

I have a fellow salesman that has taken back about a dozen broken ones, used in a low load industrial application.

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bugnut68
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« Reply #11 on: October 30, 2008, 02:02:44 am »

How do these cranks hold up in the not highly abused category of engines?  I'm considering going the stroker route, but was also thinking of putting together a mild backup engine that wouldn't be flogged so much.

I have a fellow salesman that has taken back about a dozen broken ones, used in a low load industrial application.



After how much use? Hours/miles/etc?
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #12 on: October 30, 2008, 16:34:07 pm »

does it matter? How many stock forged VW cranks are STILL making cars go?
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bugnut68
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« Reply #13 on: October 30, 2008, 16:39:36 pm »

does it matter? How many stock forged VW cranks are STILL making cars go?

Whoa, easy, hoss, I'm just asking questions.  Hell, I haven't taken the junk out of the trunk of my car yet.  Part of the reason I ask is because the latter Mexican Bugs were equipped with cast cranks.  By no means am I implying I'm a cheap skate, I'm just curious as to what kind of lifespan I can expect from this unit.  I certainly don't have a cherry car that I was expecting to build a 12-second engine with, I was just looking for some additional info.
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #14 on: October 30, 2008, 17:19:35 pm »

Looks you're a magnet for cast cranks!
I personally wouldn't trust it. Grandma could probably get away with it, but the way I drive warrants a forged crank Wink
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Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
Jim Ratto
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« Reply #15 on: October 30, 2008, 18:23:13 pm »

I wasn't planning on building a super high mileage engine with this case, maybe a sweep the floor deal or something I can abuse in learning how to get faster on the track ;-)  No buyers remorse thus far. Grin

This was why I posted what I did. The usage that these cast cranks broke in were a constant load, low rpm situation. I wouldn't want somebody to suffer the same fate, man... especially drag racing. We have had to warranty all of these cranks for this guy. Most of them became 3 piece cranks, destroying the cases too.
To me, if this type of crank can't hold up to this application, they're not going to live in a high(er) rpm, shock-load situation, i.e. drag racing. Since it is already a short-lived case, why not just find a stock German core 69mm crank, even if it is .020/.020, get it 8-pinned and go have fun. If we were talking some ancillary item, hung on the outside of the motor, then I'd feel differently.

 Smiley
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bugnut68
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« Reply #16 on: October 30, 2008, 18:32:27 pm »

I wasn't planning on building a super high mileage engine with this case, maybe a sweep the floor deal or something I can abuse in learning how to get faster on the track ;-)  No buyers remorse thus far. Grin

This was why I posted what I did. The usage that these cast cranks broke in were a constant load, low rpm situation. I wouldn't want somebody to suffer the same fate, man... especially drag racing. We have had to warranty all of these cranks for this guy. Most of them became 3 piece cranks, destroying the cases too.
To me, if this type of crank can't hold up to this application, they're not going to live in a high(er) rpm, shock-load situation, i.e. drag racing. Since it is already a short-lived case, why not just find a stock German core 69mm crank, even if it is .020/.020, get it 8-pinned and go have fun. If we were talking some ancillary item, hung on the outside of the motor, then I'd feel differently.

 Smiley

I dig... and I've learned yet again that there's no such thing as a free lunch Grin  I knew that before, but somehow I have to keep learning it over and over again. Lol.
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #17 on: October 30, 2008, 18:52:29 pm »

Just hate to see someone want to go do something, only to have it short circuit, then have them lose interest, get mad, burnt out. Been there. Sucks.
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bugnut68
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« Reply #18 on: October 30, 2008, 19:28:36 pm »

Just hate to see someone want to go do something, only to have it short circuit, then have them lose interest, get mad, burnt out. Been there. Sucks.


I'm constantly on the verge of having to retire temporarily from the VW scene purely for lack of funds.  I realistically can't afford to do all the things I'd like to whole hog, and this purchase was in no stretch a way to compromise.  I figured initially it might be an easy way to pick up a few bucks parting it out.  I may do that still, just to recoup my funds. 

With this new knowlege of the crank's status, what's the best way to determine if the flywheel is indeed chromeoly?  The guy told me it was a chromo flywheel, so I've got at least one decent part out of the lot if that's the case...
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