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Author Topic: Trouble timing my 010  (Read 4565 times)
Sam K
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« on: August 10, 2011, 02:38:57 am »

I picked up a really nice 010 with a pertronix at the Denver Bug-In last week but I'm having some trouble setting it up properly. I put it in my engine and eyeballed the timing to around 7 degrees btdc to start with, but it wouldn't fire, I had to crank it pretty far counter clockwise to get it running. I started over and made sure that the rotor pointed to the hash mark on the distributor body and it was definitely at TDC. When I hooked up the timing light and when set I full advance, the distributor was turned so far that the little "nubby" thing cast into the bottom of the distributor (below the Bosch tag) was hitting the nut on the distributor clamp and I couldn't tighten it. I had to move all the plug wires one position counter clockwise and reset the timing. It works fine and I can now tighten the clamp, but the Bosch tag is turned pretty far clockwise and the number wire one isn't on the proper spot, which sort of bothers me. I know that the distributor drive is in properly because I've had a 009 and an MSD in this engine and they both lined up fine. I'm lost. Does anybody have any ideas?
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glenn
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« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2011, 02:57:04 am »

Are you sure it's installed correctly? The BOSCH name tag should be facing the rear if it was installed correctly.

It doesn't matter that you moved the location of #1 since all the lobes are 90* apart. You could use a 40hp clamp that moves the bolt to a different location.

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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Restored Bosch Cast Iron Distributors

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Sam K
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« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2011, 03:14:51 am »

I'll double check it after work tomorow.
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Sam K
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« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2011, 03:55:59 am »

I finally had time to fiddle around with the bug today. I rechecked everything and had the same results. The first picture shows the plug wires in the proper location with the timing set at 10 degrees at idle and 32 total. The distributor body hits the bolt on the clamp so I can't tighten it. In the 2nd picture, I moved the wires 1 counter-clockwise and reset the timing to the same specs. As long as you guys think there's nothing wrong, I'll continue to run it until I can find a distributor clamp from a 40 horse or a type 4.
 
« Last Edit: August 14, 2011, 03:59:55 am by redwagon » Logged
John Rayburn
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« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2011, 04:09:56 am »

Put points back in it.
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I also park at Nick's.
Taylor
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« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2011, 11:19:55 am »

Why does it need 32* ? If you set it at 28* can you tighten the clamp?
also I think the distributor has a built in retard for cylinder 3 to keep the heat down due to air being pre heated through the oil cooler.  Either turn the timing down or get a new clamp.
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Taylor
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« Reply #6 on: August 14, 2011, 11:24:21 am »

Here's an idea, turn the clamp over, replace the stud in the block with a longer one and add some washers to make up the gap from the bend in the clamp??? Maybe?
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Taylor
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« Reply #7 on: August 14, 2011, 11:26:36 am »

....also it looks like your drive is indexed one tooth anti clockwise.
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John Rayburn
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« Reply #8 on: August 14, 2011, 16:11:11 pm »

Put the points back in it.
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I also park at Nick's.
Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #9 on: August 14, 2011, 17:27:04 pm »

....also it looks like your drive is indexed one tooth anti clockwise.

That's my thought.
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Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
Rick Meredith
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« Reply #10 on: August 15, 2011, 18:29:19 pm »

also I think the distributor has a built in retard for cylinder 3 to keep the heat down due to air being pre heated through the oil cooler.

Yes it does
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67 Beetle - The Deuce Roadster of Cal Look
glenn
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« Reply #11 on: August 15, 2011, 19:50:34 pm »

also I think the distributor has a built in retard for cylinder 3 to keep the heat down due to air being pre heated through the oil cooler.

Yes it does
Not it doesn't.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/LP-jkptQu6w" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/LP-jkptQu6w</a>
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Restored Bosch Cast Iron Distributors

www.DasVolks.com
Long Island's Aircooled Club
Rick Meredith
DKK
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We can't force ya to have fun


« Reply #12 on: August 15, 2011, 19:52:36 pm »

also I think the distributor has a built in retard for cylinder 3 to keep the heat down due to air being pre heated through the oil cooler.

Yes it does
Not it doesn't.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/LP-jkptQu6w" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/LP-jkptQu6w</a>

Really? Well I guess I just learned something!  Wink
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67 Beetle - The Deuce Roadster of Cal Look
danny gabbard
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« Reply #13 on: August 15, 2011, 20:32:04 pm »

Rick it might be the 050 your thinking of ?
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glenn
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« Reply #14 on: August 15, 2011, 20:40:18 pm »

Some 009s have the #3 retard and dual vacuum distributors from the early 70s in the USA had the #3 retard.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Restored Bosch Cast Iron Distributors

www.DasVolks.com
Long Island's Aircooled Club
Rick Meredith
DKK
Hero Member
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Posts: 5312


We can't force ya to have fun


« Reply #15 on: August 15, 2011, 21:22:17 pm »

Rick it might be the 050 your thinking of ?

I thought that the 050 didn't have that retard so that was a reason not to run it.
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67 Beetle - The Deuce Roadster of Cal Look
glenn
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« Reply #16 on: August 15, 2011, 21:45:18 pm »

The 050 is for Type 4 engines and has too much advance for a Type 1 engine (unless you Semi Hemi the heads) .
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Restored Bosch Cast Iron Distributors

www.DasVolks.com
Long Island's Aircooled Club
Taylor
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« Reply #17 on: August 15, 2011, 22:32:11 pm »

Learn something everyday.        Grin
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