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Author Topic: crank worth fixing or no?  (Read 2530 times)
bugnut68
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« on: August 26, 2011, 19:11:15 pm »

The 1600 I tore down the other night looked pretty good on the inside aside from a crank with wobbled out dowel pin holes... was just checking to see if this crank was worth saving or not?  Not sure if the holes could be drilled oversize for maybe 11/32 dowel pins or if it wouldn't be worth doing.  I hate throwing parts away if they can be saved, but if it's not worthwhile I'll just chuck it.
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Donny B.
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« Reply #1 on: August 26, 2011, 20:19:06 pm »

You can always get the end of the crank ground flat again then just have it 8 doweled.  If it's for a stock 1600 you can just use the new 4 dowel pin holes and you're set.  No need for welding or anything else.  It's really a pretty simple fix.  Just 4 new holes.  If you decide to do that then make sure that none of the new holes is the offset hole on the 8 dowel jig.
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Don Bulitta
Wolfsburg Registry
bugnut68
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« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2011, 21:45:06 pm »

You can always get the end of the crank ground flat again then just have it 8 doweled.  If it's for a stock 1600 you can just use the new 4 dowel pin holes and you're set.  No need for welding or anything else.  It's really a pretty simple fix.  Just 4 new holes.  If you decide to do that then make sure that none of the new holes is the offset hole on the 8 dowel jig.

Sweet, that's good to hear... I figured maybe I would have it re-drilled for the stock four dowel pins since it's just going back into a stocker.  Just didn't want to chuck a good standard-journal crank for no reason! Grin
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stealth67vw
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« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2011, 00:02:31 am »

I had that happen on a motor once and the local VW mechanic at the time (Marvin Freitas @ Hawaiian Country V-Dubs) redowelled the crank without tearing the motor apart.
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John Bates
JB Machining Services
1967 street bug 2020lbs w/driver
12.34 @ 108 mph 1/4
7.76 @ 89mph 1/8
bugnut68
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« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2011, 00:11:38 am »

Yeah, I tore this one apart as I was going to see if the case would be suitable for use for my 2017, but it was a no go when I found that the crank bearing saddles had been align bored out to .060", just like my 2017's current case.  This 1600 wasn't marked in any way shape or form for thrust or align bore specs, so I had to rip her apart to find out for myself.  The good news is I can transfer the bearings over from the 2017, as they're the same spec.  Everything else inside this thing looked real good, aside from the orange RTV used to seal the oil pump area.  After a good thorough cleaning it should be able to be reassembled with ease.  This engine doesn't look to have been together all that long, really, from the looks of things.
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