Unconventional breathers

[Chuck Fryer]

I've been giving breather boxes some thought. There are big bulky boxes with hoses running thru the engine compartment for this. What about two smaller boxes, one in each wheel well for each valve cover? Not as much hose to run and get in your way when the carbs go in and out. You could still vent the case with a smaller one or even factory style?

Then you get into the discussion of what is better, drain heads to sump and only vent the case, or vent valve covers as people have been doing for decades..........

[Fritter]

Mount the box on the back of the fan shroud, then it comes out with the engine, no hoses to disconnect.

[stealth67vw]

I have a Berg alt. stand breather with the 1-2 valve cover and fuel pump port vented with AN -8 hose. No messy hose routing and it all comes out with the engine without disconnecting anything. I've only only had it up to 6500 a few times so far but it hasn't puked up yet and no leaks anywhere.

[richie]

Chuck,

my concern about having them in the wheel well would be if they puke at all its likely to get on the tyres

cheers richie

[Chuck Fryer]

Chuck,

my concern about having them in the wheel well would be if they puke at all its likely to get on the tyres

cheers richie

So... 100mph+ & oily tires is not a good combo?

good point.

[Fasterbrit]

Very good point! 

[fredy66]

this is my

[TexasTom]

No pics, but I mount mine over the trans/bell housing. Lines easily disconnect when pulling and nothing unsightly in compartment.
Thinking of hoisting the whole thing and running an electric vacuum pump ... 
TxT

[bilboa2]

i decided on individual cannisters under each fender that are vented with k and n filters and internally baffled ,fabbed by doug berg. Engine case was also vented via 356/912 style breather/oil filller adapted by danny gabbard.. IF oil gets to tires, I'll steer in direction of skid... ... bill

[Chuck Fryer]

The fender well mounted boxes look good! I do like the idea of abouve the trans tho.........

[Cornpanzer]

Here is an unconventional breather.

[John Palmer]

#1---- Larger volume, we have a 1 quart now, but I will build a two quart tank next time.

#2---- Big displacement engines with "aftermarket cases" need more tank volume.

#3---- I would use larger hoses (-10 AN), and mount the tank as high as possible, like they run on nitro funny cars and TF dragsters.

#4---- I would run the return back into the sump next time and not into fuel pump blockoff as we do now.

#5---- I would not vent the 3-4 valve cover, which is full of oil.

#6---- Build some kind of oil spray deflectors for the push rod tubes on the 3-4 side.

#7---- Run the largest sump possible, that does not drag the track.   

[Jesse/DVK]

#8 with the larger sump lower your oil level, helped with me.

[John Palmer]

#8 with the larger sump lower your oil level, helped with me.

Agree, Just the "tip of the stick", no longer can use the "low" line on the stick.

[draven898]

#8 with the larger sump lower your oil level, helped with me.

Agree, Just the "tip of the stick", no longer can use the "low" line on the stick.

thats what she said ! sorry couldnt help it ! 

[Udo]

If you have the right size it fits behind the fanhousing on the firewall without taking any space for the incomming air 

Udo

[Fritter]

 

[Jon]

VW and most German kits I have seen is feeding the air filter with a hose from the oil/air separator. That way you get a depression in the breather.
Why don't more people do this?

[Fasterbrit]

VW and most German kits I have seen is feeding the air filter with a hose from the oil/air separator. That way you get a depression in the breather.
Why don't more people do this?

A fine mist of oil in your intake promotes detonation
Ok on production cars, but not a good idea on high compression and turbo motors. 
Regards, Keeno

[BeetleBug]

I would breath from where it is needed - the case. Fully utilize what is their already and look at a original engine for inspiration. If you believe you need more capacity then drill a hole in the engine case above cyl 1 and fit a AN10.

If you fill you`re breather you have a problem.

[Jon]

VW and most German kits I have seen is feeding the air filter with a hose from the oil/air separator. That way you get a depression in the breather.
Why don't more people do this?

A fine mist of oil in your intake promotes detonation
Ok on production cars, but not a good idea on high compression and turbo motors.  
Regards, Keeno

Thanks Matt, that is what I have been told in the past. But I was unsure as how valid that way of thought is these days, I mean, if the presence of this oil stained air promotes detonation it seems unwise to keep the K&N filters from the puke box inside the engine compartment. Yet most people do this.
If we believe this is a problem, it would be more so in a correctly sealed engine compartment (read stock) than in a race cars with no sealing I guess.
Therefor I like TexasTom's solution

[Udo]

Some of the big v8 use the tubes of the chassis for breather , somebody tried this on a racecar ?

Udo

[Jon]

Do anyone believe that K&N filters inside the engine compartment is a problem?

[Svwerker]

#1---- Larger volume, we have a 1 quart now, but I will build a two quart tank next time.

#2---- Big displacement engines with "aftermarket cases" need more tank volume.

#3---- I would use larger hoses (-10 AN), and mount the tank as high as possible, like they run on nitro funny cars and TF dragsters.

#4---- I would run the return back into the sump next time and not into fuel pump blockoff as we do now.

#5---- I would not vent the 3-4 valve cover, which is full of oil.

#6---- Build some kind of oil spray deflectors for the push rod tubes on the 3-4 side.

#7---- Run the largest sump possible, that does not drag the track.   

Just a thought:
If you do not need ventilation for 3-4 why is it needed in the 1-2? On turbomotors ok but on N/A?

[John Palmer]

#1---- Larger volume, we have a 1 quart now, but I will build a two quart tank next time.

#2---- Big displacement engines with "aftermarket cases" need more tank volume.

#3---- I would use larger hoses (-10 AN), and mount the tank as high as possible, like they run on nitro funny cars and TF dragsters.

#4---- I would run the return back into the sump next time and not into fuel pump blockoff as we do now.

#5---- I would not vent the 3-4 valve cover, which is full of oil.

#6---- Build some kind of oil spray deflectors for the push rod tubes on the 3-4 side.

#7---- Run the largest sump possible, that does not drag the track.   

Just a thought:
If you do not need ventilation for 3-4 why is it needed in the 1-2? On turbomotors ok but on N/A?

I think my #5 and #6 answer your questions. 

The #3 #4 side is "full of oil" at high RPM's.  Better to control the oil volume on that side with a oil deflector on the push rod tubes, and vent the crankcase in places that have mostly air/oil mist.  If anything the #3 #4 head should have a large drain hose installed directly back to the sump.

[65bug]

Mike Fritz.................LMAO.............that is pretty unconventional...................lol

[Svwerker]

#1---- Larger volume, we have a 1 quart now, but I will build a two quart tank next time.

#2---- Big displacement engines with "aftermarket cases" need more tank volume.

#3---- I would use larger hoses (-10 AN), and mount the tank as high as possible, like they run on nitro funny cars and TF dragsters.

#4---- I would run the return back into the sump next time and not into fuel pump blockoff as we do now.

#5---- I would not vent the 3-4 valve cover, which is full of oil.

#6---- Build some kind of oil spray deflectors for the push rod tubes on the 3-4 side.

#7---- Run the largest sump possible, that does not drag the track.   

Just a thought:
If you do not need ventilation for 3-4 why is it needed in the 1-2? On turbomotors ok but on N/A?

I think my #5 and #6 answer your questions. 

The #3 #4 side is "full of oil" at high RPM's.  Better to control the oil volume on that side with a oil deflector on the push rod tubes, and vent the crankcase in places that have mostly air/oil mist.  If anything the #3 #4 head should have a large drain hose installed directly back to the sump.

I know why you the 3-4 is full of iol but what is the problem you have to solv by the ventilation of 1-2? Do you need ventilation in 1-2 at all? Why is there a need of ventilation when you have 4 tubes that has bigger area that leeds into the sump?
I talked to JPM about this and he had only original in its +200 hp 1915, he had taken had time to fix something else, but it worked. What is it that makes pressure in the valve cover that must be vented? Is not the problem to be solved?

[Taylor]

#1---- Larger volume, we have a 1 quart now, but I will build a two quart tank next time.

#2---- Big displacement engines with "aftermarket cases" need more tank volume.

#3---- I would use larger hoses (-10 AN), and mount the tank as high as possible, like they run on nitro funny cars and TF dragsters.

#4---- I would run the return back into the sump next time and not into fuel pump blockoff as we do now.

#5---- I would not vent the 3-4 valve cover, which is full of oil.

#6---- Build some kind of oil spray deflectors for the push rod tubes on the 3-4 side.

#7---- Run the largest sump possible, that does not drag the track.   

Just a thought:
If you do not need ventilation for 3-4 why is it needed in the 1-2? On turbomotors ok but on N/A?

I think my #5 and #6 answer your questions. 

The #3 #4 side is "full of oil" at high RPM's.  Better to control the oil volume on that side with a oil deflector on the push rod tubes, and vent the crankcase in places that have mostly air/oil mist.  If anything the #3 #4 head should have a large drain hose installed directly back to the sump.

I know why you the 3-4 is full of iol but what is the problem you have to solv by the ventilation of 1-2? Do you need ventilation in 1-2 at all? Why is there a need of ventilation when you have 4 tubes that has bigger area that leeds into the sump?
I talked to JPM about this and he had only original in its +200 hp 1915, he had taken had time to fix something else, but it worked. What is it that makes pressure in the valve cover that must be vented? Is not the problem to be solved?

     When you build a bigger engine (bigger displacement) it also increases the amount of air inside the engine block.  When the engine is running the air is displaced between the 1-3 bank and the 2-4 bank creating pressure.  Also, when your displacement increases the amount of blow-by increases further adding to the problem.  A lot of people on here seem to think that blow-by automatically means that there is something wrong with the engine that can be rectified, but the volume of the blow-by is not directly proportional to the % of blow-by.  That make sense?   A 1600cc with 3% leak down, leaks less air past the rings than a 2275cc at the same %.   Anyways, the stock system wasn't built to ventilate that much air so a bigger breather is needed. The 1-2 valve cover is a good place to vent the engine along with the oil filler.