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Author Topic: modifying tinware for competition eliminator heads...  (Read 4586 times)
jick
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« on: January 08, 2008, 21:41:51 pm »

just wondered if anyone here had any direct experience of modifying the cylinder head tins (scat) to fit around the manifold area, it's kinda obvious where needs to be trimmed, but i'm hesitant to just remove metal.....i dont want to negate the shrouds cooling effect.

any first hand experience anyone?
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Neil Davies
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« Reply #1 on: January 09, 2008, 10:20:41 am »

If you've got to cut the tin about, then make sure it's still close to the manifolds - you should try to keep the factory gaps wherever possible. You obviously don't want gaping holes in it, so cut a bit, trial fit it, then a bit more - you shouldn't have any problems with that! It's all fairly self explanitory. Bigger problem that I can see is that most merged headers have the J-tubes closer to the centre of the engine than standard heat exchangers, presumably to avoid head radiating into the heads. I've previously just trimmed the lower tins away, but on my next motor I'm considering making a deflector shield to direct the airflow more like the standard tins.
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Peter
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« Reply #2 on: January 10, 2008, 00:02:29 am »

what do you do with the air deflectors in the tin,
do you cut them away as well?
with big beef manifolds, its not easy to keep em ...
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besserwisser
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« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2008, 00:42:19 am »

When I use the scattrack manifolds on CB wedge or roundport i start with a single port tinware. You cut it so that you can remove the intake witout removing the tinware. Basicly I cut it between the upper point of the hole for the sparkplug. Then I mount a piece of metall inside the shroud that keeps the air from blowing out around the intake manifold. Itīs like the one you find on original 1600 tinware but much bigger and it directs the air onto the exhaust port. Itīs important to fit the piece snug to the first coolingfin of the head so that the air doesnīt go down between the fin and the intake. My race motor with superflow heads have tinware from a 1500 motor that had to be massaged a bit to fit around the coolingfins.
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benssp
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« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2008, 12:03:59 pm »

Hi Jick, send a PM to gold65turbo , Paul Bate, or Richie,UK they all run tin with Comp Eliminators Grin
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ugly duckling
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« Reply #5 on: January 12, 2008, 08:02:21 am »

hello. i just used old slg port tin. a little different than CE heads. but similare consept.  UD.
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Roman
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« Reply #6 on: January 12, 2008, 19:40:26 pm »

Is it a 4" bore engine? It looks like you have welded at the #2 cylinder. HUUUGE ports!
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jick
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« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2008, 20:43:32 pm »

thanks men,

great photo's Jeff, many thanks.......it really helps to actually see what you've done.   Smiley
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2008, 21:40:25 pm »

wish I had pics of the old Super Flow motor in my car.
I took VW dual port tins and cut intake area out with a cut-off wheel, leaving the part of tin that meets the rubber engine compartment seal, and leaving the air splitter above the intake runners. Wasn't that bad, kind of a trial and error thing. Everything fit nice once I was done. I ran a Scat 36hp shroud on top. No matter what I tried though, that motor ran hot.
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jick
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« Reply #9 on: January 19, 2008, 14:57:11 pm »

thanks Jim,

i have a scat shroud and selection of various tins,

i'll have a play around and see what happens....
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Jon
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« Reply #10 on: January 19, 2008, 22:04:28 pm »

I used to have Super Flows on my 2176 in the past. I used stock dual port tins that i trimmed down around manifolds. I did not use a oil cooler in the fan house, so i could use a stock 36 housing, with a little trickery i got a 1600 fan in there.
It had 10.5 CR but it never ran hot, and that was without stand-off's or anything like that. But I did one thing that I think help and that was to wrap the exhaust in exhaust bandage. The idea was to get the heat out with exhaust.
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