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Author Topic: 42 DCNFs  (Read 21513 times)
nicolas
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« Reply #60 on: September 02, 2009, 15:56:24 pm »

alright!

it's good to see that nice topics still can derail (if that is a word) so nicely  Grin

42's are the way to go. i have bought mine from Zach and it is just a very nice carb; the car runs better then with the 40 IDF's and responds so much better. i do have 34 vents and i might consider 32's.
my combo is 1776 with webcam 219/118 CR is about 8.5, heads are reworked stock with 40x35 valves.

now get completely offtopic as Louis has chosen DCNFs  Tongue
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louisb
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« Reply #61 on: September 02, 2009, 16:01:34 pm »

Well, change is always in the air. It looks like the engine may end up being a 1914 instead of a 1776.

--louis
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Louis Brooks

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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #62 on: September 02, 2009, 16:03:13 pm »

I heard Sheep named his pet ferret DCNF
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Donny B.
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« Reply #63 on: September 02, 2009, 16:08:33 pm »

Louis, the 42s will still work fine on a 1914.  I've been running them on my 2007.  They are probably the smoothest running carbs you can use.  The Berg modified ones are the best.  I believe they open the idle circuit and you need to pin down the enrichment valves (piston) with set screws to keep them from flooding.  The latter is a simple procedure but is necessary.
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Don Bulitta
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John Rayburn
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« Reply #64 on: September 02, 2009, 22:17:51 pm »

Where's Ray?
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Lee.C
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« Reply #65 on: September 02, 2009, 23:10:34 pm »

Louis, the 42s will still work fine on a 1914.  I've been running them on my 2007.  They are probably the smoothest running carbs you can use.  The Berg modified ones are the best.  I believe they open the idle circuit and you need to pin down the enrichment valves (piston) with set screws to keep them from flooding.  The latter is a simple procedure but is necessary.

Maybe you could point out the mods on this diagram for us - please Wink Smiley
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Donny B.
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« Reply #66 on: September 03, 2009, 02:51:22 am »

Part 64 is the enrichment piston.  There is a spring above it and a swedged in retainer.  Take out the retainer and spring then tap the hole for a set screw.  Loctite the set screw and run it in to secure the piston against the seat.  There are two in each carb.  I just found a tap that would fit and purchased the same size allen set screws.  I am not sure about opening up the idle circuit, but expect it is similar to drilling a third hole in an IDA.
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Don Bulitta
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Dave Rosique
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« Reply #67 on: September 03, 2009, 04:10:02 am »

Where's Ray?


Cell phone.
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Lee.C
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« Reply #68 on: September 03, 2009, 04:46:18 am »

Part 64 is the enrichment piston.  There is a spring above it and a swedged in retainer.  Take out the retainer and spring then tap the hole for a set screw.  Loctite the set screw and run it in to secure the piston against the seat.  There are two in each carb.  I just found a tap that would fit and purchased the same size allen set screws.  I am not sure about opening up the idle circuit, but expect it is similar to drilling a third hole in an IDA.

Cool cheers dude - I am sure this will help ALOT of people  Smiley
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71CALRIPPER
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« Reply #69 on: September 03, 2009, 08:40:27 am »

Drove my new 67 back from the POD 2 weeks ago with a WPS  built 1776 with a 120 cam and a nice set of 42DCNF Berg specials which i would say was my best drive ever in a beetle, perfect rev range and nice pick up. Dont know how much was due to the carbs but i was very inpressed.





Rob
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Paul Knight
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« Reply #70 on: September 03, 2009, 21:55:25 pm »

Part 64 is the enrichment piston.  There is a spring above it and a swedged in retainer.  Take out the retainer and spring then tap the hole for a set screw.  Loctite the set screw and run it in to secure the piston against the seat.  There are two in each carb.  I just found a tap that would fit and purchased the same size allen set screws.  I am not sure about opening up the idle circuit, but expect it is similar to drilling a third hole in an IDA.
ah, that's good to know, and makes sense - thanks!
I've used 40dcnfs on a couple of type 3 motors in stock format (ok, one set had the vents opened to 36, but only because i couldn't find any 42s or short idf fanimoulds at the time!), and i've got to say, they worked just fine. but then, neither car was particularly hot at cornering, so that's probably why they worked ok!

monkiboy, i have one spare set of 40s and a sweet set of 42s i've bee saving for my notch. if you sort some set screws before i do, let me know. Likewise, if I ever get round to building my type 3 motor (!), I'll give this a try and let you know how i get on Wink
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jhicken
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« Reply #71 on: September 03, 2009, 22:17:14 pm »

I'll chime in with another thumbs up for 42's. In my '67 I had a 1776, polished and ported big valved heads, 110 and a set of 42's. It ran really well, I could even get gas mileage in the high 30's with a light foot on the long hiway trips. A real nice set-up.

-jeffrey
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Lee.C
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« Reply #72 on: September 03, 2009, 23:57:55 pm »

Hmmm this is all very interesting  Smiley but just how much better are DCNF's than DCN's  Huh The only real problem you have with DCN's as far as I can see is that the main jeets are in the bottom of the float bowl and not easy to access  Roll Eyes m ine are totally bone stock ie NO mods,

I have only run my DCN's for approx 400 miles now due to pushrod issues BUT I will say they are VERY VERY good, NO hesitations, VERY easy to tune and they sound AWESOME  Grin

Anyone else used/using DCN's just out interest Huh Smiley
« Last Edit: September 04, 2009, 00:00:11 am by monkiboy » Logged

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Lee.C
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« Reply #73 on: September 04, 2009, 02:07:03 am »

Also can someone point out the MAIN JETS on this DCNF diagram please  Huh Smiley
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Dougy Dee
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« Reply #74 on: September 04, 2009, 02:26:42 am »

24. Anyone selling Type1 manifolds for DCNF?
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