super flos

[hector]

has anyone used super flos on the street and what experiences have u had with them .hector

[cal-look 56]

I have been running them on the streets for about 10yrs and so far so good.  They do run Hot tho.

[Jim Ratto]

I ran them on two motors in the early 1990's. One was fast the other was a dud. The fast one ran really hot.

fast one: 2276, 5.600 Bugpack rods, 8.8:1, 46 x 38, .100"+ longer, Chevy springs, SF 1's, D-ported exhausts, Berg 311 (K10), Eaton lifters, Scat 1.4's (watch ratio on Superflows, it's way over what rocker mfr says it will be!), 48IDA, 40mm vents, locked Vertex 36 deg, 1-3/4" 4-Tuned, Flowmaster muff.  Try to drive it on highway in summer heat, 240F in no time, with big Mesa cooler and Doghouse.

dud: same as above except 2054cc (94 x74), same heads, same carbs, same header, Bosch 009, Engle FK87, 9.5:1. Didn't realize pushrods would rub stock tubes until it was too late and motor was in car. This was third motor I ever built. Got frustrated and bought the stuff to build the one above.

I remember how pissed I was when I found out what a job it was to get SF valve covers off in my car. This was before I got the Berg v/cover conversion.

The SE heads run just as hot BTW.

[Mike Maize]

 Jim I am in the middle of trying to figure out the valve cover thing in my 67. Any insight would help. Looks like I will have to remove the top studs and run allen head bolts instead. I want to run it before winter.

[John Rayburn]

Pick up the Berg conversion if they're still doing them.

[danny gabbard]

What makes them over heat? Lack of fin's on the heads? Or getting Fresh air to them properly? I dont know and just wondering!

[Jim Ratto]

Jim I am in the middle of trying to figure out the valve cover thing in my 67. Any insight would help. Looks like I will have to remove the top studs and run allen head bolts instead. I want to run it before winter.

 

Hi Mike,
I have to remember back... we're going on 18 years ago
I remember Mark P @ BH telling me it would be a bitch. he suggested trimming a lip away under engine compartment weatherstrip-groove (on body). Unfortunately I did that and it helped 0%. 
I took the studs out and went to allen screws. Still, couldn't get to rear top screws, the body of car was still in the way, esp on RH side (motor offset). I drilled a small hole to get a hexwrench in, but still, I was working blind. All this came about after breaking cam in and was going to reset valves. I was stopped in my tracks.
I was really happy when the Berg ad appeared in Hot VW's for the cover conversion. I actually ran that setup with finned alum valvecovers, back then I was still worried about looking cool, and my car lived over a sheet of cardboard to catch the drips.  . Plus with motor in car, it was going to be too difficult to drill the ends of the heads for the 6mm car screws to hold VW bails.

Danny, yeah I think it is due to fin design and the big intake runners that take up so much surface area, but do nothing to aid cooling. I think needing to cut up stock tin, and having to remove the upside down 'V' in there does something (bad) too. The SE heads I ran after I got rid of my SF's didn't run any cooler though, and I ran factory cyl covers, w/ the 'V' so who knows.

I like the intake manifold design of the SF's.

[Mike Maize]

Thanks Jim I already trimmed the lip as was recommended to you, it WAS needed because this engine is big 86 stroke. I am going to do the allen head thing until we can get the Berg conversion. We are going to be putting this mill into a 50 split so I want to have it figured out before painting the car its going into. We are going to run it on E85 to help keep it cool. I am hoping to rip off a couple passes in the 11's before it gets too cold. This summer was a let down with the 2276 in my 67 ..so I need to get juiced a little to get it straightened out over the winter. I am on the verge of a MAJOR burn out and I am not talking tires

[Jim Ratto]

Thanks Jim I already trimmed the lip as was recommended to you, it WAS needed because this engine is big 86 stroke. I am going to do the allen head thing until we can get the Berg conversion. We are going to be putting this mill into a 50 split so I want to have it figured out before painting the car its going into. We are going to run it on E85 to help keep it cool. I am hoping to rip off a couple passes in the 11's before it gets too cold. This summer was a let down with the 2276 in my 67 ..so I need to get juiced a little to get it straightened out over the winter. I am on the verge of a MAJOR burn out and I am not talking tires

Sorry to hear you're at Burnout's doorstep. I've been there. 
Wow an 86 stroke in a split body!

Have fun

[Mike Maize]

I have been to burnout land before I had too many irons in the fire this year On the split I am probably going to remove the sealing shelves and make different cylinder tins to reach the walls. It is going to be a really wild ride......

[Neil Davies]

I have been to burnout land before I had too many irons in the fire this year On the split I am probably going to remove the sealing shelves and make different cylinder tins to reach the walls. It is going to be a really wild ride......

Mike, check out the Hooky's panels - he can make the engine bay shelves in whatever size you want! www.hookyspanelshop.com IIRC!

[Mike Maize]

Thanks Neil will check when we install this beast inot the split window. For now its in my 67 and lamost ready to run. I did the hex wrench holes to get the valve covers on, but we'll be looking for the Berg conversions too.  Hector with the width of the 86 stroke rod combo cutting the gasket mount lip in the engine bay was a must. I will let you know if they run cool enough on E85.

[hector]

hes since decided to sell them so i'll put an ad up soon