broken head stud!!

[beetletom]

was taking the heat exchangers and exhaust off my 1300 today, and one of the studs snapped off!! (at the back)

is there any way of drilling it out and re tapping, without taking the head off?
as only bought the engine to chuck in to get my car back on the road!

[SlingShot]

The engine will have to be out of the car. You can try a bolt extractor. If that doesn't work you may have to drill the old stud out and tap it for a larger "step stud"

[Lids]

there is a gadget that you might be able to use, you drill a hole in the stud and use a funny helix screw thing to drive in and twist the stud out.

Also it can be burnt out using spark erosion

[Lee.C]

Why on earth did you take them off  They were fine and ready to use 

[beetletom]

because over time steel nuts on steel studs rust!
was going to change the gaskets and nuts for the copper ones bugpack sell...

[danny gabbard]

I made a drill jig for doing this, What i mean by drill jig is I made a 1.0 thick exaust flange out of steel , So drill bit doe's not eat up jig if made out of alum. You bolt it on to your head and use the spare hole to drill thru. Grind the bolt flat and center punch broken stud and start by useing a center drill or a very small and short drill bit, So it doe's not flex and walk on ya. Hopefully that helps

[Lee.C]

because over time steel nuts on steel studs rust!
was going to change the gaskets and nuts for the copper ones bugpack sell...

There is no point in changing something just for the sake of changing it - this is a perfect case in point - There was NOTING wrong but now there is 

[beetletom]

instead of moaning, fancy giving a hand?  i would rather change the bits now while the engine is out of the car.

for the money i paid you, i was expecting all the bolts not to be rusted solid...
but i know ive got a good running engine, as ive trusted your word, all i wanted is to change the exhaust!!

[Black Sheep]

Grind whats left of the old stiud flush with the case , depending on your skill you may want to use a file rater than a linishing disc .
Once you have a nice flat surface arm yourself with a centre punch an " automatic one is best here " and indent the centre of the remaining stud '
With a steady hand and a sharp 3mm ish bit pilot your first hole a perfect right angles to the head through the stud , some cutting compound or copper slip will help here " slow and constant pressure "
Increase this up till 6.5 mm hopefully you wont of skidded off to one side into the head , with an 8mm tap re-tap the hole .
You can now re-place your stud , I personally would flaten the thread a bit towards the top of the thead to bind it into the hole a little and use a bit of green loctight .
Simples 

[Lee.C]

instead of moaning, fancy giving a hand?  i would rather change the bits now while the engine is out of the car.

for the money i paid you, i was expecting all the bolts not to be rusted solid...
but i know ive got a good running engine, as ive trusted your word, all i wanted is to change the exhaust!!

Firstly - YOU broke the stud not me - it wouldn't have broke if I was doing it!

Anyway my point was there was NO need to change ANYTHING, that motor WAS ready to bolt in and RUN (with new plugs/oil/checkover of course)

Oh well its not mine anymore