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Author Topic: Horn grills getting filled  (Read 6561 times)
danny gabbard
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gabfab


« on: February 11, 2010, 17:02:07 pm »

 There are many ways to do this, But this is how I do It. First picture of hole, 2nd open hole to even shape, Then take flat peice for patch, that I slightly hammered some shape into. Then lay behind hole and scribe. After, cut to scribe line and file to fit, I like them to be tight. then tack
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A poor craftsman, Blame's it on poor tools.  GAB-FAB shop # 775 246-3069
danny gabbard
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gabfab


« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2010, 17:09:41 pm »

Now that its tacked, I weld. I am useing a tig torch and .027 rod at about 45 amps. After welding I take cut off wheel on die grinder and lightly grind weld and ONLY the weld on both sides. Now I slightly hammer, To stretch and get some shape back into the area. Once done I regrind with a flat grinder till weld is flat. Now time to hammer and dolly till metal finished and can be filed flat. I hope this helps anybody getting started.
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A poor craftsman, Blame's it on poor tools.  GAB-FAB shop # 775 246-3069
danny gabbard
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gabfab


« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2010, 17:11:41 pm »

O-YA 4-5 coats of DTM primer and block with 80 grit and Its ready for paint prep.
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Dave Rosique
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nobodyouno


« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2010, 17:17:43 pm »


Nice work Danny!

So... you got something against Bondo Cheesy Cheesy

~DR
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danny gabbard
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gabfab


« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2010, 17:23:38 pm »

Thanks dave, I hate wearing partical mask.
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A poor craftsman, Blame's it on poor tools.  GAB-FAB shop # 775 246-3069
DKK - Lisa
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« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2010, 19:08:27 pm »

You're an artist Danny!  You sure set the bar up high. 
(oh shoot, I just said bar and high to a DEEK... )
« Last Edit: February 11, 2010, 19:10:39 pm by DKK Lisa » Logged
Speed-Randy
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« Reply #6 on: February 11, 2010, 20:09:37 pm »

Well I guess that will work if that's the best you can do
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Matt Tobias
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« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2010, 02:39:54 am »

Well I guess that will work if that's the best you can do

 Cheesy

Excellent work!
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Dan Mazur
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« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2010, 03:00:12 am »

good is good,
good enough, isn't
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DKKBRIAN
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« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2010, 03:57:13 am »

HEY.. AT LEAST HE'S WORKING.. Grin
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Rennsurfer
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« Reply #10 on: February 12, 2010, 05:28:25 am »

Dang it... when I clicked on this thread, I was expecting to read about Cal Look bbq grills getting filled with food. You need to change the title to grilles.

Grills are for cooking. Grilles are those openings commonly found on automobiles.

 Grin

All of that garbage outta the way... excellent work as always, Dan. Looks GREAT.
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danny gabbard
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gabfab


« Reply #11 on: February 12, 2010, 17:28:25 pm »

Sorry Mark, I spent more time in auto shop than I did in english-grammer. Here is a few more pictures. Shot of the other fender and the back side. A couple of my 67 with a couple coats of primer
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A poor craftsman, Blame's it on poor tools.  GAB-FAB shop # 775 246-3069
Speed-Randy
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« Reply #12 on: February 12, 2010, 17:48:17 pm »


Nice work Danny!

So... you got something against Bondo Cheesy Cheesy

~DR
You know how vampires react to garlic, same reaction with Danny and plastic filler
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streetvw
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« Reply #13 on: February 12, 2010, 18:04:25 pm »

Sorry Mark, I spent more time in auto shop than I did in english-grammer. Here is a few more pictures. Shot of the other fender and the back side. A couple of my 67 with a couple coats of primer

Danny that is so cool that you can work metal like that, wish I had the tallents to do that kind of stuff!!! Shocked
« Last Edit: February 12, 2010, 18:06:02 pm by streetvw » Logged
61SNRF
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Der Selten Kafers Charter Member


« Reply #14 on: February 13, 2010, 03:56:15 am »

There are many ways to do this, But this is how I do It. First picture of hole, 2nd open hole to even shape, Then take flat peice for patch, that I slightly hammered some shape into. Then lay behind hole and scribe. After, cut to scribe line and file to fit, I like them to be tight. then tack
Cool tips Danny, it makes a lot of sense to cut out the openings first to eliminate those quirky notchs. How did you cut the holes so smoothly and keep it flat?
I suppose the TIG was used to keep the heat and warpage to a minimum, but any tips for the average MIG user?
Next, it would be nice if you could post a similar thread on filling those useless pea-shooter outlets I see on so many "Cal-Looks". Do you cut those out first too to even the shape and panel?
Thanks for the help, Bruce
 
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Rennsurfer
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« Reply #15 on: February 13, 2010, 05:08:31 am »

Sorry Mark, I spent more time in auto shop than I did in english-grammer. Here is a few more pictures. Shot of the other fender and the back side. A couple of my 67 with a couple coats of primer

Don't sweat it... just messin' w/ya, dude. REALLY cool pictures, Danny. The lighting shows off your work rather nicely.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2010, 23:09:43 pm by DKK_Fred » Logged

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John Rayburn
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Der Kleiner Panzers


« Reply #16 on: February 13, 2010, 05:37:53 am »

Sorry Mark, I spent more time in auto shop than I did in english-grammer. Here is a few more pictures. Shot of the other fender and the back side. A couple of my 67 with a couple coats of primer

Don't sweat it... just messin' w/ya, dude. REALLY cool pictures, Danny. The lighting shows of your work rather nicely.
                                                              Check your spelling, Chicky-Baby!
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60deep
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« Reply #17 on: February 13, 2010, 19:35:30 pm »

There are many ways to do this, But this is how I do It. First picture of hole, 2nd open hole to even shape, Then take flat peice for patch, that I slightly hammered some shape into. Then lay behind hole and scribe. After, cut to scribe line and file to fit, I like them to be tight. then tack
« Last Edit: February 13, 2010, 19:49:52 pm by 60deep » Logged
60deep
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« Reply #18 on: February 13, 2010, 19:56:17 pm »

What the hell is this...metal-molesting 101? Don't make me come up to Bunny Ranch Fab and show you how to do it Danny! Why don't you use some of that talent on that bad ass 60' Ghia that is in your shop!!! BY THE WAY- nice work!  Grin Grin Grin
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DKKBRIAN
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« Reply #19 on: February 13, 2010, 20:04:32 pm »

 Grin
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plasticblack
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WWW
« Reply #20 on: February 13, 2010, 22:51:59 pm »

I just keep coming back to this thread, take another look and another and another...... Cheesy
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danny gabbard
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gabfab


« Reply #21 on: February 14, 2010, 19:42:32 pm »

There are many ways to do this, But this is how I do It. First picture of hole, 2nd open hole to even shape, Then take flat peice for patch, that I slightly hammered some shape into. Then lay behind hole and scribe. After, cut to scribe line and file to fit, I like them to be tight. then tack
Cool tips Danny, it makes a lot of sense to cut out the openings first to eliminate those quirky notchs. How did you cut the holes so smoothly and keep it flat?
I suppose the TIG was used to keep the heat and warpage to a minimum, but any tips for the average MIG user?
Next, it would be nice if you could post a similar thread on filling those useless pea-shooter outlets I see on so many "Cal-Looks". Do you cut those out first too to even the shape and panel?
Thanks for the help, Bruce
 
Hi, and some where in hot vws mag, I did a artical on filling the pee shooter holes on the rear apron. On cutting the horn grille hole , I used a carbid cutter in a die grinder and finished with a med half round file. As far as welding sheetmetal with a mig. Use the smallest wire you can get, Turn the heat up and try to make seperate puddles. Or make a puddle then let off trigger, Then while its still red hot do another. In stead of pulling trigger and holding wide open the entire weld. And practice . before you start on your project. Playing with amps and wire speed helps. and if you are haveing problems blowing holes , You can back up the weld with copper sheet. This is why I like tig welding, Less trouble.
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j-f
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« Reply #22 on: February 14, 2010, 19:58:51 pm »

Thanks for sharing your knowledges Danny  Wink

It's very helpful.

I use 0.8mm wire for my mig. I will try some 0.6 as you advice.
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danny gabbard
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gabfab


« Reply #23 on: February 14, 2010, 20:15:30 pm »

One other thing, before you start hammering. Grind the welds till ther the same thickness as the fender. I start with cut off wheel on die grinder and just shave the weld down. And ONLY the weld. After weld build up is gone on both sides, Then lightly hammer the weld to get some shape back in panel. Then I take a new 36 grit dish on 90 degree angle grinder and finish grinding weld, Stop grinding when weld disappears. Then take a file and lightly file till you can see all your high and lows and hammer till its straight. Grinders dont staighten panels so be ez on the grinding
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A poor craftsman, Blame's it on poor tools.  GAB-FAB shop # 775 246-3069
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