Single HD valve spring recommendation

[Brandon Sinclair]

Any recommendations for single HD valve springs for some stock ported heads?  I have run Berg in the past, but was wondering what the other options are.

Thanks

[Jim Ratto]

the few times I've used a single HD, I've used Bugpacks. I hope you are building something really mild in the cam dept and a slow revving motor (note I am not talking how high rpm, but how fast the motor will climb the tach).

[dyno don]

single springs will work great for you depending on several things/i have personally run engle cams from 100/110/120..all with xlnt results..BUT..they were run in conjunction with single port heads/ported,etc...1600 cc thru 1835...first a good set of springs is in order/berg/bugpack/cb,etc...i recommend using a lightweight retainer as well to keep the weight down in relationship to keepng valve float from occurring...you will want to use a decent set of valve shims and with the 120 down i have used .030 exhaust/.060 intake...a good valve job will enhance the heads by keeping the valves seated correctly...and recommend smith brothers brand(oregon) or other quality brand aluminum pushrod to limit deflection and weight. your engine depending on what you have assembled should be a rev up wonder that will spin comfortably to 5500 rpm. they will work as well with dual port heads dependiing on your h/p output/suggest no more than 110/120 h/p. my personal best in my notchback in "1978" with my 1600 s/p engine in street trim/belt/radials was 15:01 @87/88mph and achieved 40+mpg with kadron carbs so this shows proof that there is merit here.(old school) hope this helps you and if needing more info feel free to e mail me. good luck..!! dyno don

[Udo]

I have run Berg single springs up to W125 and 7000 rpm with light lifters (58 gramm) and titanium retainers ...

Udo

[dyno don]

udo...hope you can still save me a set of those >>very "bitchin' lifters...for that special engine...in that special ride...one of these days..!!  i use to regularily tach out beyond the designated 5500 rpm by the way....and the engine looked xlnt. upon inspection after thrashing out 60k m/with a stock vw crank..!! and all looked so good i just buttoned it back up and kept driving until i sold the car a year later. its amazing how many people out there complain about this and that but the fact of the matter is when one does the homework there is definitely much less to worry about...period.!!  peace out/dyno         note: as for your original question brandon... just follow the basics with the above mentioned vendors and use a good shim pack with your stock heads and all will be fine...sorry to rant.. good luck..!!

[Brandon Sinclair]

Thanks for the information guys.

Dyno Don, one question for you, why did you use different shims for the intake and exhaust (ie .030" exhaust/.060" intake).

Also what lighweight retainers would you recommend for HD singles-currently using the Berg chromoly ones that came with the springs.

Thanks

[Udo]

Hi Don

I am shure on that ONE day for your SPECIAL engine i will have a set for you ....

Udo

[dyno don]

THANKS UDO..!! i may just suprise many someday soon..!!   brandon...on the intakes use .020/exhaust.010....this will suffice for a single spring with a stock cam or engle 100 or simular grind...the reason for shims is to stiffen the spring somewhat and to prevent the springs from imbedding(galling) themselves into the aluminum of the heads...this spring setup and shim recommendation has been used by myself for years with no adverse problems to the valvetrain and or heads.  and like udo suggests..a good set of light lifters will do wonders to prevent valve float and allow a quicker responding engine. call bergs and tell them what you have and they will accomodate your needs. i like others can sometimes "assume" certain things when read/sorry if i got too far out on this topic. hope this will help you in your quest.

[Felix/DFL]

Dyno Don, one question for you, why did you use different shims for the intake and exhaust (ie .030" exhaust/.060" intake).
Thanks

The differnt shims are caused because the intake valve is heavier than the exhaust so it needs more springforce.

but watch out if you are using 9mm exhaust valve steams then the weight is near equal. I bended a valve with an W125, single valvesprings shimed, 1,25 rockers,CroMo pushrods and empi lifters. I will never use W125 with singles and 1,25 rockers again. Up to W120 everything was fine...

[dyno don]

felix>>>bummer..!!   single springs were NEVER designed for that application/ over extending the range of the spring with 1:25 increasing the lift to .500 ...homework..!!  keeping the valvetrain LIGHT and compatible does wonders but one must understand the relationship that all parts play into the final assembly for the total outcome..!!  and study what works..this puts me in dismay knowing how many people go throught this learning curve/having to experience hard luck. the real reason for the increase in shim on the intake is the fact that the intake valve does most of the critical work and is under the most stress put on the valve by the lift requirements.

[Felix/DFL]

Hi Dyno Don,
yes it was my fault and I learned it the hard way. But sometimes you have to try...
I even think that a very light v.train with W125&1.1 rockers as Udo said is possible.
Greetings from D

[dyno don]

now thats the spirit..!!   we all had to learn at some time or another my brother. with a single spring the harmonics are overwhelming at such loads especially with a larger valve. ive  seen it all/been there /done that/...and to this day i still see things that are bending the envelope in terms of trying to make inadequate parts work in an effort to save money,time or both. good luck on your next project..!!

[morkrieger]

Little experiment will be my FK7 with 1.3 Pauter rockers, 51 Gr. lifters and dual tapered aircraft aluminium pushrods needing to survive a snappy 9.2:1 CR on a 6200 rpm limit using 'Remmele' Single springs bouncing 40x35.5's up and down.

Ill let you guys know 

(PS awesome forum guys keep up the good work!)