The Cal-look Lounge
Welcome,
Guest
. Please
login
or
register
.
Did you miss your
activation email?
November 01, 2024, 00:27:30 am
1 Hour
1 Day
1 Week
1 Month
Forever
Login with username, password and session length
Thank you for your support!
Search:
Advanced search
351145
Posts in
28649
Topics by
6850
Members
Latest Member:
Bugstar70_new
The Cal-look Lounge
Cal-look/High Performance
Cal-look
your motor: how when and why?
« previous
next »
Pages:
1
[
2
]
Author
Topic: your motor: how when and why? (Read 27530 times)
autobarnhauler
Jr. Member
Posts: 92
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #30 on:
March 20, 2007, 21:41:22 pm »
my just finished 22.76cc. in a 66 bus, with a cogbox built gearbox. irs rear with home made 3rd gearbox mount, willwood discs.
build the engine myself arfter 2 years of collecting parts, it rocks!.why? cos i love fast old vws, thay are cool
and when i go camping i can sleep in it
Logged
GWB, founder member
.... there and back again, a rocket buses tail....
Jim Ratto
Hero Member
Posts: 7121
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #31 on:
July 20, 2015, 23:49:31 pm »
Wow this is an old post, but I felt it was probably time to dig it up and get more to contribute. Man since this was posted I think I've built 4 motors for my car, maybe more.
Logged
Fiatdude
Hero Member
Posts: 1823
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #32 on:
July 21, 2015, 07:30:33 am »
my current boat anchor -- --
Bought it off a sand drag guy in '08 -- It was installed in a mid-engine dune buggy which was in the top of a Quonset hut building in San Bernardino -- -- When we pulled the engine out of the buggy, the KEP Stage 2 clutch had a date stamped on it "1987"........
It has a ARPM case, Siamese Barrels, and the original angle port heads 48x38 -- a very early Pauter 90mm crank and it now has some JE 4.030" dish pistons and some cam that Mario at Pauter said I needed to be running -- size 2989 -- Oh, it's turbocharged too -- Wish it would get out of it's own way LOL
Logged
Fiat -- GONE
Ovalholio -- GONE
Ghia -- -- It's going
Get lost for an evening or two --
http://selvedgeyard.com/
Remember, as you travel the highway of life,
For every mile of road, there is 2 miles of ditch
modnrod
Hero Member
Posts: 795
Old School Volksies
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #33 on:
July 21, 2015, 14:42:42 pm »
My engine combo has changed about 3 or 4 times in as many months I rekn.
A little baby snappy 1600 is WAY better than still waiting for the 76 x 92 Oxyboxer I haven't even started on, or the ideal 78.4 crank x something that is just taking forever I think.
F@kkit, why not hey?
«
Last Edit: July 22, 2015, 00:20:43 am by modnrod
»
Logged
Zach Gomulka
Hero Member
Posts: 6991
Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #34 on:
July 22, 2015, 00:53:55 am »
I forgot about this topic!
The engine I built for my old GTV a few years ago got pretty out of hand
It started out in my head as a top end rebuild with slip in 88's, a little headwork, and original EMPI 1.4:1 rockers. The thought was "what would a guy on a budget in So Cal back in the 70's do?" I ended up opening the case and having DPR counterweight and 8 dowel the original crank, lighten the flywheel, I "ported" the case, SLR stock grind cam (and he refurbed my OG lifters), NOS EMPI cam gear, EMPI mag sump, Kennedy stage 1 aluminium PP, and an EMPI filter/pump (blueprinted). Then I got around to the top end "rebuild"... I bought another set of machine in 88's and had the bases turned down to fit in the stock case, I dropped the original heads off to Steve Tims to have them worked over (stock valve, ported, step removed, etc.) and matched to a pair of EMPI globe Solex 40 PII manifolds. Split shaft Solex carbs converted to solid shaft. EMPI 1.4 rockers. Compression landed at 8.6:1. Hooked it all up to a EMPI 4 bolt header and remade (improved) glasspack muffler.
F**k me that engine was expensive!
It did do everything I ever hoped it would though, idled smooth, revved quickly, sounded fantastic, ran very strong (and cool!) and returned great mileage.
Next engine will be a boring 2332 torque engine. Web 218, 5.325 rods, Tims stage 1 heads, 40 Dell's, 9ish:1, custom 1 1/2" exhaust. Not going over the top this time! Knock on wood!
Logged
Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
modnrod
Hero Member
Posts: 795
Old School Volksies
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #35 on:
July 22, 2015, 02:46:46 am »
That engine in a little Beetle will be like driving a 440 4-speed in a Dart.
Very cool.
Logged
Catbox
Jr. Member
Posts: 90
Slave to internal combustion.
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #36 on:
July 28, 2015, 22:17:50 pm »
My first VW engine build is a 2332.
I found a smoking deal on a feller that was upgrading his sand rail to a twin turbo LS engine.
I bought $1,500 worth of parts from him and sold what I did not want for $1,200. (I kept the case, crank, rods, pistons, and Dell 45's...
)
I have been collecting parts and pieces for what seem to be years now.
It has even been close as an assembled short block.
But it was pulled apart and the case sold to my good buddy that blew a giant hole his race car engine.
It went this way as my bug was totaled by insurance and I can no longer get full coverage on it.
So I went and bought a fun '70 Squareback to put this into for daily driver fun.
It is....
Scat forged 84mm crank
Scat 5.5" H beam rods
Engle FK-8 cam
Mahle 94mm pistons
Revmaster 94mm long barrels
Steve Tim's Stage 2 heads
It will be assembled with between .040 and .050 deck height and 9.5:1 or so compression
I have a set of Dellorto 45's for it, I just need to pick up the CB manifold kit for it and have the intakes matched to the heads.
If I had it to do over again I would have gone with a 78mm or 82mm crank and kept everything else virtually the same.
I think it would have gone together a bit easier and produced plenty of power.
But then I would not get to tell people that it is a 2332, now would I?
«
Last Edit: July 28, 2015, 22:20:37 pm by catbox
»
Logged
pupjoint
Hero Member
Posts: 723
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #37 on:
July 29, 2015, 04:12:03 am »
current motor is a low mileage hand me down 2027 Scat long block. got it from a friend who was upgrading. he bought new from Scat and used for 8 months?
weird combo. 90.5 forged Mahles, Scat CAST Volkstroker3 78.8 crank, Scat Chromoly I Beams, New Mg case AS41, STD STD Metal Leve mains and rod bearings, Mahle cam bearings, C35 cam, straight cut gears, Scat lifters, 12lbs Chromoly flywheel, Scat 40x35.5, dual springs, heads UNported, 30mm Berg pump, Berg relief cover, System 1 filter, Setrab cooler, CR 10.1 Wasp 1 header and home made muffler. currently on EFI 45mm throttle bodies.
dynoyed at a pathetic 67whp, out of steam at 5k rpm, kinda expected.
motor is down now. will be doing the following
1. open motor and check case condition. perform minor Berg case conversion mods and possibly Hoover oiling mods.
2. replace crank and rods with Scat82 and 5.4 H beam rods
3. Main bearings will be steel backed KS treated by WPC treatment
4. rod , cam bearings and oil pump also WPC treated.
5. reuse the 90.5 Mahles, new Deves rings
6. JPM cam/lifters on CB straight cuts
7. Steve Tims Stage 2 heads 42x37.5 matched ported Bugpack straight manifolds
8. 10lbs flywheel by DPR
9. Berg Archiever pulley modified for crank trigger.
10. Berg pulley and flywheel nuts.
11. CR will be 10.1 and RON97 pump fuel
12. stock doghouse oil cooler, additional Setrab single oil cooler, controlled by Mocal thermostat sandwich and Setrab 180F fan switch.
hope the motor will turn out good. mainly street use in tropical weather.
Logged
Peter
Hero Member
Posts: 1301
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #38 on:
July 29, 2015, 11:18:07 am »
my motor:
started as:
1) 2276 cc, cb wedgeports, 86c, 9.4 CR, EFI: got tired of it, didnt drive well anymore: cam went flat
2) same block; new pistons,lowerd CR, FK 8, turbo, homemade headers, new EFI: cracked the cylinders from too much advance and the fact i didnt know what i was doing
3) got tired of the EFI and bought some IDA's
4) rebuilt the engine this winter again with MS230, FK89, higher CR again.
Now in the process of tuning this thing... I dont know shit about carbs so it takes some time to get it right. they say carbs are easy to adjust...I think it was simpler for me with some laptop next to me...
back to square one?
Logged
Jeff68
Sr. Member
Posts: 394
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #39 on:
July 29, 2015, 14:56:32 pm »
Great topic.....This engine is in my 68 Bug that I've had since 1993 (Has it been that long?) Started out with a mostly stock 1600 with Berg mildly stock valve heads, 009 distributor, 1 3/8 extractor, stock 34 Pict carburetor. Current engine built in 2010 is a 2110. I tried to replicate the engine that Gary Berg had in his '67 12 second street car. It took me 7 years to collect the parts for this engine, buying Berg parts off the samba, ebay and where ever I could find them! Most All parts are Berg: 8 doweled Swedish 82 mm crank with flywheel, Berg /Carrillo Porsche length rods, stage one Kennedy pressure plate - solid center disk, equalizer pulley, Berg special 90.5 piston and cylinder set with clearanced pistons and total seal second ring, clearanced, full flowed, bored VW mag case, Berg K10 cam, stock berg modified lifters - straight cut gears, chrome moly push rods, Berg ported 42 X 37.5 870 style CB 044 heads, dual springs, Berg 1.45:1 rockers, 8.5:1 CR, full flowed 26mm oil pump, jaycee filter, ACE prepped 48 IDA's, Berg tall manifolds, stock fuel pump, Berg IDA linkage, Berg 1 5/8 933s Header with Phat Boy muffler (if anyone has a Berg merged dual quiet pack for sale PLEASE let me know LMAO), Stinger S4 ignition, VW type 181 shroud.... Even with the compression set lower that most people say I should have it, it runs strong in traffic, but pulls hard from 2000 rpm to 7600 rpm. I don't consider it a slug at all. Stock geared transmission and I'm not certain the R&P or gear ratios....
I wanted to be able to drive my car anywhere and eventually drag race it. I've street driven it for 2 years this way, highway trips (200 miles) never any issues or overheating. Great street engine, lots of fun and feels pretty fast to me. I don't know how fast or slow it is as I've never taken it to the drag strip, just some stop light races here and there (stupid!). I really want to update the engine with mods to carburetors (profiled shafts etc) Bigger velocity stacks, more head work, raise compression, maybe go to 94mm pistons, update transmission to optimize gear ratios, and drag race it. I'd love to try the JPM heads and raptor cam, and a step header then see what it makes for power. I think I'm at the point with it that I wouldn't mind making it more race than street now. My wife wants to get a bus now and I've collected some parts (mostly Berg again) to build a really nice 1776 for the bus. Just need $$$ and time now! Don't have either at the moment
Logged
DWL_Puavo
Full Member
Posts: 104
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #40 on:
July 30, 2015, 14:27:13 pm »
My first -68 beetle:
1) 1300 sp stock (stripped for parts)
2) 1687 dp single progressive (stripped for parts)
3) 2074, dual dells, 041 heads, W110, CR 8,5:1, then stripped for parts, this finally wasn't that good a combo.
This developement took a few years - almost every summer it had to be more powerful. Some minor tweaking in between.
Race engine first for -69 beetle, then to our race car, and in between has been userd for T2 bus, -62 bug.
1) 2272 mahle pistons, CB race crank, CB race rods, W120, CR 8,2:1, 041 heads from the former engine. This has been rebuilt a few times:
2) 2272 dual 40 dells, , W120, CR 8,5:1, ported 044 heads
3) 2272 dual 45 dells, 044, W120, upped CR 9:1, MSD ignition
4) Rebuilt with W130, CR 10:1, MSD, bigger exhaust etc.
5) Fully rebuilt again after broken exhaust valve: full head repair, wiseco pistons, Webcam 86c, CR ~10:1, CB ultralight lifters, dual 45 dells etc etc.
6) Fully rebuilt again after cracked case, now for turbo use: CB alu case, TCS-10, CR 8:1 etc. Currently been driven with different carbs, turbo and EFI in making for three years now...
T2 bay engines:
1) 1641 dp dual dells with w100. Very good 78hp street engine. This is currently not in use even if it's missing only a few parts.
2) 1955 dp dual dells with w100 (bay doppelkabiner). This is also a very good, very streetable and reliable engine.
Puavo / DWL
Logged
max, Der Bahnstormerz
Newbie
Posts: 49
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #41 on:
August 01, 2015, 01:17:46 am »
Going to build a fresh motor for the '65 next year;
Still a 2332cc
84 x 94
5.500 rods
46 x 40 comp eliminators, ported by myself
EFI and some other goodies.
CR approx - what ever it works out to be with a tight deck. IgnitIon and cam will be dependant on this.
Anyway the aim, as always, is a streetable motor. Not after any numbers with this one.
Logged
TexasTom
Hero Member
Posts: 1518
12.58@106, 7.89@89 Texas Motorplex 10/18/09
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #42 on:
August 24, 2015, 03:51:29 am »
Cool topic!
I sold the original engine from my '67 to build my first stroker simply because I found a 'good deal' for a cast 82 crank and a set of original Porsche rods, this was back in 1991.
I called up Pauter and purchased a clearanced and full-flowed case ... it was used to begin with, but didn't have the funds for new!
The heads were ordered from Fumio Fukaya, non-welded 40X35.5 ported heads matched to an Engle 125.
I also found a deal on some good used Berg 42DCNFs ... they used to list various items for sale on the back page of the price-list flier and I saw them there, purchased thru Gene himself. Also got most of the valvetrain parts needed from them.
The header was an old 4-Tuned unit I bought from my brother and all the rest was pretty much scrounged from our used parts at the shop or from swap meets.
It came together pretty well for my first stroker. I think the compression was in the 8:1 range.
I had already started racing the car both at the strip and at local auto-crosses. Now THAT was FUN! Everybody got a kick out of seeing the car burning around the couse lighting up the tires ...
A couple years later I saw a listing in the Overland Parts flier and picked up the Okrasa 82 forged crank from them. Naturally a rebuild ensued. I sent the heads back to Fumio for more work, but kept the same valves.
I also took the opportunity to change the cam to an FK-87! Compression was set to a reasonable 8.7:1. I was really proud to have that Okrasa spinning in there!
The following year I was really itching for more power. The car was running consistently in the 13.3 range and so now I wanted 12s.
I used my brother's 48IDAs that had been dormant for a while and sent the heads back again to Fumio for MORE work. This was the push needed ... 12.97 against a gold GTO.
A couple more years and I purchased my current '69 from my brother in 1993. The car that started it all for us! He was the 2nd owner since '71.
So with this car came the engine he had built to go to the drags with ... I wanted to go faster at the track so I swapped engines between the cars and now the 2110 was in Warp and his 2007 in the '67 for racing only.
After an unfortunate incident in the rain while on DOT tires that included three flat spins and concluded with an abrupt and quick conversation with some armco on the highway, Warp was back in the shop for a complete teardown! This was late in 1994.
Body repairs and new paint were just the beginning ... the rebuild also included a Berg 5 speed built by Dave Folts and a complete teardown on the engine. I upgraded the rods to Carrillos (Porsche length), changed the case for new which I machined completely myself,
swapped to 94mm cylinders, changed the cam to A Web 86c, and sent the heads back to Fumio once again for more work ... welding was required to add strength back into the castings for the larger cylinders and more port work, valves remained the same at 42X37.
The last mods I made to the engine were for the Unlimited Street meet here a few years ago. Once I decided to attend I pulled the engine and flycut the heads to get the compression up! Raised it to 10.55 with a 49cc chamber. Ran my current best time at that event at 12.59.
As for the present, the engine is in pieces. The engine began to seemingly breathe oil last year so I finally pulled it. I have a replacement build in the wings awaiting final mods and completion. It will be all new and the 2276 is being refreshed for backup duty ... with all this history I can't bring myself to retire it.
Sorry for the long read ...
TxT
«
Last Edit: August 26, 2015, 21:21:33 pm by TexasTom
»
Logged
Work, work, WORK!
Modesty accepted here ...
Karlos99
Newbie
Posts: 49
Re: your motor: how when and why?
«
Reply #43 on:
August 24, 2015, 23:15:35 pm »
2110 90.5x82
CB performance Chevy journal crank
Stock weight flywheel & Berg heavy pulley
DRD h-beam 5.4 rods
Engle Fk8 with scat 1.4 rockets
Straight cut cam gears
Chromoly pushrods
10:1 compression
DRD L5's with 40x35.5 valves, hand ported
Weber 44 IDF's on match ported CSP manifolds
Merged 1 5/8 header & mondo muffler
Full flow with hp 1 filter and external cooler with scoop
Fully balanced to '0' and blue printed
Bosch 009 with petronix and MSD blaster 2 coil
165hp & buckets of torque, don't remember figure and revs to 7000rpm
Built by Hector Howe
Coupled to a Rancho box in an early bay results in a lot of fun
Was a fun trip to Ninove in Belguim lol
«
Last Edit: August 24, 2015, 23:17:22 pm by Karlos99
»
Logged
Pages:
1
[
2
]
« previous
next »
Jump to:
Please select a destination:
-----------------------------
Cal-look/High Performance
-----------------------------
=> Cal-look
=> Pure racing
=> Technical stuff
=> Top Racers lists
=> In Da Werks
-----------------------------
The Cal-look classifieds
-----------------------------
=> For sale!
=> Wanted
-----------------------------
Happenings
-----------------------------
=> Happenings
=> Scandinavian Cal-look Classic (the event)
-----------------------------
Tyre kicking
-----------------------------
=> Off Topic
Loading...