2276cc - my first stroker-build..

[Carl-Erik]

OK so here's the deal. I've always wanted a great mean machine for my '63 (You know all that talk about setting your priorities right - buying an engine more expensive then your car is exactly that!  ) Said and done! Now there's parts all over my garage and the fun of putting it all together is underway. I've rebuilt several stock engines and had a couple of kadron'd 1600/1641’s in the past, so this should be a step in the right direction. And I did my homework, reading up on tons of forum-posts before filling up my shopping-cart.

What I've decided to go for is the 2276.

82mm chevy-journal'd crank
CB 5.5 H-beam rods..
Mahle 94mm P/C
FK8 – straight cut gears - lightweight CB lifters - crommoly pushrods - 1.4 rockers
Heads are CB’s CNC wedgeports with 42x37 valves
IDA 48’s
Stock weight flywheel
CR is about 9.1:1 with the stock 64cc chambers – I will leave it at that first time around to see how it feels…

Still on the to-do list: send out crank/flywheel for balancing..

I guess that’s the main components anyway.. Just this week I did the first trial-assembly of the shortblock, and measured what shims would be needed to set the deck-height. It will probably end up at .050”, I hope that will work out with the valves?

I haven’t touched the heads except cleaning them up making sure there are no cast-shafings left on the cooling-fins and such.

And how will this thing perform? All assembled well how much HP could it in theory end up with? Or is something in my specs totally messed up?

Any input would be greatly appreciated! // Carl-Erik in Stockholm..

[Carl-Erik]

111 views and no one has anything to say.. Come on people, I thought this is what you are all about?! 

[TexasTom]

Can't really say what kind of power you may find ...

Depending on your desired outcome, and assuming it's maximum power that's still streetable considering you're running IDAs and such, I'd aim a little higher on the compression ... say 9.7:1, approx. 58-59cc chambers.
Don't really know why you'd want to tear it all down and redo it ... set it up the first time and run it!
Though, for those heads, it may be better to aim even higher on your cam choice and go FK10 with 9.9:1 and 57cc chambers (all assuming 0 deck and .040 copper head shim!).

I run the same size engine, but with shorter (porsche length) rods and even bigger cam (86C) with 48s ... goes mid 12s.
Make sure you have a good transaxle behind it it you're going to use (and abuse) the power!

Good luck!
TxT

[neil68]

My previous 84 x 94 (2332 cc), FK8, 44 x 37 CB oval ports (with K-Roc work), IDA's, straight cut gears, 1.4 rockers, chromoly pushrods, lightened flywheel, 9.6:1 CR, 91 octane pump gas, made 169.2 HP (at the wheels) and 165.9 ft-lb torque...here's a video of one of the tests.  I then swapped to a Web 86C and numbers went up to 180.4 HP/170 torque, but we didn't have enough time to jet as much as I'd like:

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/9UqSJdRngJI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/9UqSJdRngJI</a>

[Peter]

your engine is quite a common engine nowadays,
like the other guys said, a bit more compression and maybe another cam;
but the FK8 is said be be a good all round cam...
for the valves, you ll have to see and measure when you mock up, every engine is different.
Cheers, Peter

[Carl-Erik]

Ah.. there we go, thanks for the input you guys.

I've thought alot about what to aim for. And I would like to start of with a quite mild version but with loads of 'grunt', I assume this will get me there.. Not really planning on dragracing any time soon, but it would be great to have something when standing by them red lights! I know people running 12:1 CR using the E85 fuel available in Sweden.. but then again that would make it a completely different engine.

I heard of people using clay on the cylinder to check valve-clearance, sounds like the best way to test it?

Transmission is stock, and I have a few spares. When they're all gone to the scrap-heap I'll buy something that holds up better..

[TexasTom]

I'd be very surprised if you have valve clearance issues, but it's always good to check. Clay is spread on the piston top, then roll the engine over one full cycle (2 revolutions), pull the head off and cut the clay to measure the cross section to get your clearances, intake and exhaust. Remember at this point you will have already established rocker arm geometry and pushrod length.
There are other ways to get the clearance, but the tools are more costly.

As for the trans, the more aggressive you drive, the more parts you will need.
A friend runs a 76X94 motor on the street with 44IDFs and stock trans ... no problems YET!

Good luck & Take care,
Tom