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Author Topic: Lowering Kits for Type 2 bus  (Read 2605 times)
Devils speedshop
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Posts: 203



« on: June 15, 2010, 08:38:35 am »

Hey Im selling out T2 lowering kit for a very good price.

NOW 87 Euro for a kpl. set normal price 117 euro


http://teamangoraracing.dk/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=49

Christian
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Team Angora Racing
Phone: +45 21291280
AngoraRacing@gmail.com
Christian Ulberg
Denmark
kev d
Hero Member
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Posts: 1163



« Reply #1 on: June 20, 2010, 23:39:54 pm »

Hi Christian,

Dumb sounding question but how do these work?
Do you need to go into the lower tube behind the pitman arm bracket?
I've only lowered a couple of t2's & done it by cutting & turning the tube centers, looking for an easier way on my new bus!
Cheers,
Kev
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body , but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy shit ... what a ride"
Devils speedshop
Full Member
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Posts: 203



« Reply #2 on: June 21, 2010, 08:40:12 am »

Yes you have to drill teh 3 points out that hold the center part so it can turn, then you weld the teeth on to the beam and you can ajust the hight.

Christian
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Team Angora Racing
Phone: +45 21291280
AngoraRacing@gmail.com
Christian Ulberg
Denmark
kev d
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1163



« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2010, 09:04:28 am »

So do you only fit an ajuster into the top tube?
How much drop does it give?
Cheers,
Kev
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body , but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy shit ... what a ride"
Devils speedshop
Full Member
***
Posts: 203



« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2010, 09:36:34 am »

You just put the bolt that comes with the kit into the org. hole on the center part and then you turn the center part.

Its you ball joint that says stop, so like 220-250 mm

Christian
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Team Angora Racing
Phone: +45 21291280
AngoraRacing@gmail.com
Christian Ulberg
Denmark
paul_f
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 59



« Reply #5 on: June 21, 2010, 11:55:23 am »

I'd put an adjuster in each tube otherwise the springs are acting against each other and you can get some strange effects.

I drill out the 3 dimples in the top tube and just the one in the lower tube (that is accessible without removing the steering pin housing). 
Then use an old jack handle slid into the beam to hammer the centre of the lower tube along - this pushes out the dimples that you can't get to.
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