Well..it's been dynoed

[JS]

I modified stock tins for my friends engine with JPM´s heads.

[bang]

here is my 2779 oxy boxer with jp ms230 heads.. you have to modify stock tin..

[JIMP]

O.K. so now we have a target and some job to do, thanks for the inputs

Friendly

Dimitrios

[JIMP]

Hello

as time passes by and no-one seems to want to get an engine, and my personal car is way far from being ready, I decided that I can see no more the engine standing on the self and put it on a 1302 car that I prepared for my shop. So point is, as it remained from the last post, the cooling system. I decided to go on the easy and efficient way of std vw shroud. I made some pics from the first cuttings and I'm amazed, everything fits like stock! so the questions to come for you experts on cooling systems

-is it O.k to go with this std shroud or it is better to go with a 30HP version? is it more efficient or not?
-If I retain the std I'll have to block off the doghouse somehow, is it better to close it as a box at the doghouse area or is it better to try to block it in the shroud before it start to create the cavity for the doghouse?
-Do I have to use also the internal  flaps of the termostat? They will have no function but do they add something to the distribution of air or they should be discarded completely?
-Do I have to go with std bottom cylinder tins? Now the engine has on them the t3 tins, can I keep them or replace them with the originals?
-I will be using an uprated fan from a t4 2lit -the aluminum one- should I keep the big "venturi" in the entry of the air or I should discard it?

Hope to hear from you some opinions to get the thing going, thanks for looking

Friendly

Dimitrios

[JS]

Dimitrios, it´s great the engine will finally be driven! 

My friends engine is not as powerful as yours, maybe 15hp less. It uses an aftermarket 30hp fan housing and all other tinware is modified stock. No flaps or thermostat.
It seems to be working fine with no heat issues. But remember, this is in Norway - NOT Greece...

[neil68]

Hello Dimitrios,

I have been running a 2332 cc with JPM MS230 heads for two years now.  I use an OEM German doghouse FI cooling system complete with directional flaps (with the venturi ring) from a late-70's Beetle and have been very happy with this combo.

My JPM heads have been flycut (by K-Roc) to produce 50cc chambers and Mahle pistons have been notched (by Rimco).  I run zero deck height plus 1.0 mm copper head gaskets for clearance. This creates 10.7:1 CR, as the valve pockets are ~3 cc.

Currently I have been using a high lift JPM camshaft.  Cam has 274 degrees (at 1.27 mm) and 10.8 mm lift at the lobe.  With 1.4 Scat rockers the valve lift measures out to 15.2 mm (rockers actually measure out to 1.41).  Also, have IDA's, 1.75" header, etc and 91 octane CLC (670 m. elevation), and 94 octane when I'm at sea level racing.

I use OEM German top cylinder tins, but trimmed them for the CB manifolds and MSD spark plugs leads.  I also use the two small stock rear tin pieces on the sides of the cylinders, in other words ALL OEM German Type 1 tin.  This Beetle is used for street driving (but is not a long distance driver due to the close-ratio gearbox), and I also drag race almost every Friday night and it consistently runs low 13's and even a few 12.9's and one 12.8 ET.  It is a stock weight Beetle, so with me driving, total weight is 920 kg.   As of yet, I do not have any external oil coolers, but then living in Canada, we only get two or three months of warm weather.

Here's some photographs:

[ibg]

I would try to use the flaps as they direct the air to the correct parts of the heads and barrels after the vanes in the shroud have done their work.