wedgemating and balancing in the uk

[Rocket Ron]

hi guys

anyone know where I could get a crank and flywheel wedgemated in the uk , it would be great if they did balancing as well

thanks in advance

Regards Ron

[Lids]

Don't think there are any, Jick looked into this a few years ago, but it might be worth trying Taylor Machines Services.

Jim @ Stateside does balancing to zero, better than needed

[Fasterbrit]

I am sure Taylor would be up for just about anything so give him a buzz re wedge mating. Jmr is awesome for balancing to beyond F1 spec.

[Martin Greaves]

Ron i will call you later about it i have someone who can do it.

[Rocket Ron]

cheers guys, that gives me a few options 

[flatfire]

Its a morse taper. I have a DPR crank and flywheel and have just put it together. On the flywheel it tells you what shims to install to get the desired end float.
I used the info and set my end float it was spot on.

A good machine shop should be able to do it but setting up probably would be a pain.

[Jon]

Yes it's a morse taper...  with a BIG difference, it has a end stop. Normally when you fit some to a morse you push it as far as it would go that ensures that it sits with the maximum clamping force.. there is no end stop to the taper. On the crank you want the morse to grip the crank at the precise moment when the crank bottoms out in the flywheel, so you have good friction there as well. Get the dimensions on one or the other surface a fraction wrong, and one of two areas of friction stops doing anything. This job is best left to magicians.

[Jee Ent.]

I have done it  It took a lot of time and measuring. But it's very doable if you have the right tools.

I use a 3degree taper. The taper starts locking 3mm before it meets the flywheel. It needs about 200Nm to get to bottom.

Tried several options when welding the flywheel. Tig and "stick"welds with "special" Esab-additives  made to much heat, and warped it. So I ended up with the good old Mig/mag with low heat and preheated flywheel. The key is to weld very precise, and with continuous speed.

It has been on/off 10 times already. Only minor distortions on the taper. Nice clean surface all the way around.

Try it.. It's fun. But make sure to have some flywheels in spare 

[flatfire]

Yes it's a morse taper...  with a BIG difference, it has a end stop. Normally when you fit some to a morse you push it as far as it would go that ensures that it sits with the maximum clamping force.. there is no end stop to the taper. On the crank you want the morse to grip the crank at the precise moment when the crank bottoms out in the flywheel, so you have good friction there as well. Get the dimensions on one or the other surface a fraction wrong, and one of two areas of friction stops doing anything. This job is best left to magicians.

I totallly  agree get the magicians to do it. I was impressed with the combination of the taper and the exact calculation of the shims.

There is an other method called weld mate. An interference fit between flywheel and crank.