2017 build

[stealth67vw]

Smug pollution?  "Good for youuuuuu! Thaaaaanks!"   A little South Park reference for John Boy there...lol.

Thanks guys, will stick with the 38s on this combo.

I knew you'd catch that.

[bugnut68]

Smug pollution?  "Good for youuuuuu! Thaaaaanks!"   A little South Park reference for John Boy there...lol.

Thanks guys, will stick with the 38s on this combo.

I knew you'd catch that.

But of course!

[bugnut68]

Carburetor linkage is another purchase I will soon need to make.  Any preferences on crossbar set ups, aside from Berg linkage?  I'm not sure how well it would fit my Scat doghouse shroud and don't really want to modify it.  I was thinking about a hexbar set up since I will likely relocate my coil using a case mount (ahead of the distributor) unless someone suggests a better location/placement.  Originally I though of going with the Scat push-pull linkage, but the coil location prohibits this.

Just wondering what everyone's preferences are?

[stealth67vw]

I like CB for cross bar linkage. It's cheap and easy to set up.

[bugnut68]

I like CB for cross bar linkage. It's cheap and easy to set up.

That's kind of what I was leaning towards... I once had Tayco/Bugpack cross bar (the round tube style) for a pair of 34 ICTs on my first Bug, and it was a nightmare keeping them synched.  I think that was the only item I ever had from Bugpack that I wasn't very happy with, but that was back around '93 or '94.

[bugnut68]

Whilst waiting for my next parts/tool arrival in the mail, got a quick question on assembling a deep sump.  The stud that also fastens the oil pick up to the case bottom is my concern, given the tight quarters/difficult access.  Do you bolt the sump to one half of the case while its still split so you can tighten the nut down on the oil pickup, and then install the other case half?  This seems to make the most sense to me, but have never installed a sump before, so thought I'd pick a few brains out there whilst my project is temporarily on hiatus.

[bugnut68]

Bump.

[DKK Ted]

What sump? Brand.

[bugnut68]

What sump? Brand.

It's a Scat 1.5 Qt.

[javabug]

I will likely relocate my coil using a case mount

Tip:  I did a case mount coil.  If you want to save a few $$$, go buy some angle aluminum.  Bring it home, look at the pic of said mount, drill, drill, hacksaw, and you just made your own.

I was so proud of myself.   

[bugnut68]

What sump? Brand.

It's a Scat 1.5 Qt.

Update, I just gave it some additional thought, and realize now that a longer stud is all that's needed... simple enough solution.  Forgot that I'm using metric allenheads to hold the sump on for five of the six mounting points, but the fastening point for the oil pick up tube will remain a stud.

Javabug, I would consider that, but by the time I travel someplace that has what I need (if you saw where I currently lived, you'd understand! lol) I probably could have bought the ready-made one and had it shipped here... I think Wolfgang International in Redding, Calif., has the case mount part, and they have some other things I need, as well.

[javabug]

No prob.  I just figured any hardware store should have it. 

[j-dub]

For what it is worth I prefer the CSP center pull linkage to the CB Hex Bar system any day. It has less slop and less parts to wear out and require adjustment over time.  However it would require you to find another mounting point for your coil.

[bugnut68]

For what it is worth I prefer the CSP center pull linkage to the CB Hex Bar system any day. It has less slop and less parts to wear out and require adjustment over time.  However it would require you to find another mounting point for your coil.

I think my buddy Zach had that linkage on his Fastback and had good things to say about it as well... right now I'm not dead set on anything, as until the flywheel tool shows up from Aircooled.net, I can't do squat on my engine.  Unless I split the case and tap the flywheel off with a rubber mallet, I gotta be patient. Lol.

One thing for sure, this car is by no means a primary driver, so odds are it would take quite a while for me to wear any parts out, such as carb linkage.  I admit I do like the 'clean' look of the CSP linkage.

[bugnut68]

Thinking a bit ahead, I'm attempting to decide muffler options... I prefer Dynomaxes over Magnaflows, but noticed Thunderbird makes a nice merged single QP (www.thunderbirdexhaust.com).  Am considering going that route for the traditional cal-look, but am wondering how much difference I can expect in power if I were to go dual QPs rather than single?  Sadly, Thunderbird does not offer a dual set up at this time.  Bugpack has a nice one, but, as I mentioned in another thread, do not feature the bell/flared tips that I like so much.  Any thoughts?

[DKK Ted]

Call Tiger at A1, maybe he can build an old setup. Ya never know till ya ask. 

Ted

[bugnut68]

Call Tiger at A1, maybe he can build an old setup. Ya never know till ya ask. 

Ted

I may talk to him, he's a hell of a nice guy... I'm a little ahead of myself at this point, hell, I don't even have the longblock done yet...lol.  Just thinking about what the end result will be.  Single mufflers tend to not rattle loose, in my experience, but I love a nice, throaty purr like what dual QPs offer.  Plenty of time ahead, yet...keeping all ideas on the table ;-)

[bugnut68]

I read on another site a fellow's troubles using German lifters (his were used German lifters reground by SLR) and an Engle 125 cam.  Given that his engine combo is identical to what I'm building, I'm a little nervous, as I'm using German Wizeman lifters with my 125 cam.  I didn't have any issues using German lifters with my Engle 100 cam in my 1776, but am a little concerned about this combination.  I've sort of lost track of the latest trends as to cam and lifter compatibility?  Hoping somebody can offer me a word or two of advice before I do final assembly.

[Jim Ratto]

Bugpack or CB

[bugnut68]

Bugpack or CB

Cool, will look into both those... thanks!

[bugnut68]

Well, the good news is I'm just about ready to fire this beast... new starter and battery are in place and it turns over with the plugs out and rockers off.  Oil light turns off within a few revolutions, indicating oil pressure is building as it should.

[Hotrodvw]

Get this POS fired off already........      Less writing, more wrenching!

[bugnut68]

I finally had the time to do it today!  

Broke the cam in successfully, though fought carburetor issues for quite some time... had fuel backwashing onto the butterflies after cranking it over.  Went over the carbs and at last check it was only the number one and three cylinders' barrels doing it.  Engine snapped and sneezed through the stacks and muffler initially but ran fine for the 20-minute break-in period... after shutting the engine down, I could hear a burbling sound... and saw the fuel pouring into the barrel on the number one and three cylinders.  All the other ones were okay, though.  Not sure what to make of it.

[DKK Ted]

Check the needle and seat.

[Hotrodvw]

Yup, or the famous Dellorto drip!

[bugnut68]

Yup, or the famous Dellorto drip!

Looks like the carbs are going to have to go to ACE/Art Thraen, which I probably should have done to begin with.  Everything else seems to be fine, but my problem doesn't appear to be float related.  It's my understanding that an overfilling float would lead to leakage through the nozzle near the auxiliary venturi in the top of the carb.  My issue is with fuel leaking from the side of the carb near the main venturi.

[bugnut68]

I should have sent them there to begin with rather than mess around with them myself.  In fairness, the seller only told me they needed to be rebuilt, didn't mention anything about any internal problems; I took that to mean clean 'em up and put in new gaskets and seals.  Won't be a cheap fix, I've come to learn, but at least they'll be done right.

At least I know the engine runs and I made it through cam break-in... lol.  The suspense would be killing me by now.

[youngnstudly]

I will likely relocate my coil using a case mount

Tip:  I did a case mount coil.  If you want to save a few $$$, go buy some angle aluminum.  Bring it home, look at the pic of said mount, drill, drill, hacksaw, and you just made your own.

I was so proud of myself.   

I did the very same thing and it was more rewarding than waiting for a store bought cheap (junk) bracket to show up in the mail.
-Andy

Here is the rough cut and drilled mount with helicoils installed:


Here is the polished and installed version-don't mind the messy wiring as I was just wiring up the fuel pump relay and alternator when the pic was taken:


Wait until you get to this point Bugnut....engine installed and damn near ready to run...That was a good day until I figured out that the hockey stick in the nose cone was bent and the trans was stuck in gear after screwing around with the shifter adjustment for 20 minutes... I had to pull the engine and trans completely out after installing both, plus stripping all the undercoating off and recoating everything and resetting the suspension in the rear. Shown here is the CB hexbar linkage as well.  If you get really bored waiting for your carbs to get back you can make a firewall like I did that matches your door panels...polished of course.