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Author Topic: Cheap and free improvements, or taking time to do the un-fun stuff.  (Read 8610 times)
javabug
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WHAT'S UP WID DA BOOM BOOM???


« on: October 20, 2010, 16:11:33 pm »

For the next few years at least, I’m going to focus on fixing and improving my ’67 mainly doing jobs that cost little or no money.  After a quick search, I didn’t turn up any threads on the subject, so why not start a discussion?  There are lots of clever folks here that probably have very good insight on the subject, and I know there are some members with very nice driving/detailed cars.

So, let’s talk about what you’ve done, or are planning on doing to your  car that involves mostly just time and patience.

My plans for the foreseeable future include:
  • Bodyworking my distorted overrider holes
  • Cut/tweak fitment of dual muffs
  • Clean and detail job — jack up car and clean inner fenders, rockers, suspension and brakes
  • Go through electrical, clean up ground connections, fix horn and dome light
  • Tidy up interior — detail dash, mount gauges, clean and lube lock and window mechanisms
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Mike H.

Sven was right.
Dave Rosique
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nobodyouno


« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2010, 16:27:04 pm »

Good idea Mike..

I'll start with a little trick that may help some:
58-65 T1 Accelerator pedal repair (non roller pedal)
Weld the backside of the washers located on the Z bar that connects the pedal to the cable.
This mod really helps eliminate side play and firm up the pedal.
 
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jick
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« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2010, 17:06:50 pm »

Good idea Mike..

I'll start with a little trick that may help some:
58-65 T1 Accelerator pedal repair (non roller pedal)
Weld the backside of the washers located on the Z bar that connects the pedal to the cable.
This mod really helps eliminate side play and firm up the pedal.
 

interesting....somebody back in the past has done this to my'59
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Dave Rosique
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nobodyouno


« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2010, 17:42:33 pm »

Good idea Mike..

I'll start with a little trick that may help some:
58-65 T1 Accelerator pedal repair (non roller pedal)
Weld the backside of the washers located on the Z bar that connects the pedal to the cable.
This mod really helps eliminate side play and firm up the pedal.
 

interesting....somebody back in the past has done this to my'59

Maybe I worked on it!  Cheesy
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javabug
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WHAT'S UP WID DA BOOM BOOM???


« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2010, 19:49:42 pm »

Great start, Dave!

Threads like this can help motivation.  Bring it on!
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Mike H.

Sven was right.
Jim Ratto
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« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2010, 20:38:03 pm »

I have a list of crap I have done over last year, I'm only going to share the cheap/free ones, and there will be more to come of the cheap, as Bug money is directly inverse to number of kids you have. One increases as the other decreases.

kafercup turned over a nice set of used rear Konis and I finally got 'em on last year and I have to say, aside from a bigger cc motor, these are the best thing a guy can do to his car to make it feel "faster"

I did my own alignment around same time and got rid of KYB GR2's up front. Used the chalkline and jackstands method on the align and went to stock Boge front shocks with stock snubbers (that I shortened)

replaced "Z" shaped threaded rods from Berg linkage to carbs with real L/R thread rods and ball joints.

Had my bud Holleran weld gussets on bottom of my IDA manifolds


next up is fixing wipers so they work like new, mounting '67 reverse light lens/frame in front kick panel carpeting (just ahead of shifter) for extra courtesy light, and sourcing a working rear 1970 or so defrost rear glass and the crap to make it work.

Just got rid of my 145 and went to Smart tires (175/55) though I wouldn't classify that as cheap.
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Mike Maize
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« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2010, 02:21:09 am »

OK this is right up my alley! Hauer knows I obsess with everything working "right". Here are a couple I do to every car I build because I have found they help with that "new" feeling.
1. Completely disassemble pedal assembly and lube/rebuild .......should cost free to cheap.
2. Disassemble shifting assembly and re-bush carrier in tunnel. Polish rod...always a favorite Wink New coupler, with factory cage, lube and reassemble. Should cost cheapish..
3. Remove then disassemble, clean, and lube turn signal switch. Take your time and have a beer on this one Grin Free if you don't break it.
4. Service the bearing (bushing in early cars) in the steering column. Pain in rear...BUT.....cheap. Gives the steering a more buttery feel.
5. Adjust the brake pedal push-rod to the Bently Manual spec. Adjust the brakes.......freeeeee

I understand some of these may be no brainers to some, but I have driven some very "nice" cars without any of it done and they just don't feel "right".

Hey Jim, I thought you were going to try the 185/60/15's?Huh
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javabug
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WHAT'S UP WID DA BOOM BOOM???


« Reply #7 on: October 21, 2010, 03:05:47 am »

3. Remove then disassemble, clean, and lube turn signal switch. Take your time and have a beer on this one Grin Free if you don't break it.

OH yeah...I'm reminded of this one every time I drive.  Add to list...
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Mike H.

Sven was right.
Bryan Nunes
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« Reply #8 on: October 21, 2010, 04:47:01 am »

On my 65 I fixed the pedas about two or three times, got pissed and took the whole thing out and put a set of 67 pedals in no more gas pedal problems. But nothing bets replacing the shift rod bushing and shift coupler, than if feels like butter.
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youngnstudly
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« Reply #9 on: October 21, 2010, 05:51:10 am »

I'll share the one that I have been hiding from for quite a while...Finishing the undercoating under the fender wells Roll Eyes (I've already done the hard part of scraping and undercoating the parcel tray underneath while the trans was out, but I never finished the fender wells). I also have to replace the bumper bracket grommets and most of the "small" rubber seals and grommets on the body so the car doesn't sqeak and chafe everytime I hit a bump. Running board grommets come to mind here too! I'd also like to install the glovebox door rubber stops so the door will open when I hit the button.

Andy
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There may be rocks, there may be chips, but one things for sure...I drive this bitch!
Jim Ratto
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« Reply #10 on: October 22, 2010, 18:02:34 pm »

Hi Mr. Maize...
I looked at the 185/60 and 175/65 but I think they would have scuffed fenders on full lock on the canyon road I drive to work (the old 145's would just buzz under there), and I'm not a beam narrowing guy, unless disc brakes force my hand (CSP's may be in the near future, my guy tells me they only stuff wheels out 6mm per side). Besides aren't the 80's coming back? Grin
I need to do my shift coupler, but man I have avoided it fo so long. Last one I did was 1990 and it was a real joy.

Jim
« Last Edit: October 22, 2010, 21:52:55 pm by Atom Heart Mother » Logged
Mike Maize
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« Reply #11 on: October 23, 2010, 00:08:27 am »

Ha Jim! Grin Do that shift coupler....you will thank me.....
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Rick Meredith
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We can't force ya to have fun


« Reply #12 on: October 23, 2010, 00:22:01 am »


Besides aren't the 80's coming back? Grin


They will when I get my '67 running!  Wink
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67 Beetle - The Deuce Roadster of Cal Look
Rennsurfer
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« Reply #13 on: October 23, 2010, 01:01:18 am »

On my 65 I fixed the pedals about two or three times, got pissed and took the whole thing out and put a set of 67 pedals in no more gas pedal problems.

Thus proving, once again, that '67 VW technology is your friend.

 Grin
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"You can only scramble an egg so many ways."
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #14 on: October 25, 2010, 18:46:27 pm »

Mikes: you two got to me. Roll Eyes R&R'd my shift bushing (what I meant above, not "coupler"). Had a few spare hours Saturday and just got in there and did it. Not much left of the original. Now I remember why I have been putting off this job for 20 years. It does shift much nicer now though.
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j-f
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« Reply #15 on: October 25, 2010, 18:52:01 pm »

Tightening the steering box... 
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Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #16 on: October 25, 2010, 18:57:02 pm »

Just got rid of my 145 and went to Smart tires (175/55) though I wouldn't classify that as cheap. Quote from A.H.M.


I have a pair of those... Doesn't that size leave an awful gap fenderwise ? (They will get me around corners though...)
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Done ? Not Yet.
Jim Ratto
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« Reply #17 on: October 25, 2010, 19:56:38 pm »

Just got rid of my 145 and went to Smart tires (175/55) though I wouldn't classify that as cheap. Quote from A.H.M.


I have a pair of those... Doesn't that size leave an awful gap fenderwise ? (They will get me around corners though...)
Hi Harry, no I don't think they leave the fender-opening gaping. They are about 1.5" shorter in overall diameter than the 145 I took off. I did push the car, with some vigor, through my route to and from work last week and I have to say there was a night and day difference in turn-in feel and steering response. I could enter 2nd gear corners with brakes on much later and get off them earlier as well and apply power harder and earlier. Big time improvement. If I was worried about the look of things more than how they worked, I guess they would take some getting used to. I need to reset my camber now for some reason, which means resetting toe too. After I get it dialed in further we'll see how it does. Carlos has been bugging me to go up another CA33 run.  Cool
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Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #18 on: October 25, 2010, 20:27:42 pm »

One pic, thousand words. I'll bet those Smarts will look good on my 6" Cookies.
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Done ? Not Yet.
lawrence
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« Reply #19 on: October 26, 2010, 06:46:59 am »

Good call on the tire swap, Jim. Im sure it will give you a new appreciation for the car. I love the 185/65 on my car and will probably never go back to the drag look.
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"Happiness is a Hot VW!"
javabug
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Posts: 2103


WHAT'S UP WID DA BOOM BOOM???


« Reply #20 on: August 10, 2011, 17:02:51 pm »

Bringing this back from the dead! Anybody "improve" their car lately?

So far this season for me:
  • Cut/tweak fitment of dual muffs
  • Clean/lube turn signal switch (altho technically I did break it too)
  • Pedal cluster is cleaned and lubed with manicured clutch hook, ready to go back in car
  • Installed factory alternator pulley I had saved
  • Bent up a scoop to ram air into the external oil cooler under the car
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Mike H.

Sven was right.
Mike Maize
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« Reply #21 on: August 10, 2011, 19:41:06 pm »

Installed an old finned Oberg  and "high-tech" staging brake on my 67 Wink
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javabug
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WHAT'S UP WID DA BOOM BOOM???


« Reply #22 on: August 10, 2011, 20:59:54 pm »

Show everybody the staging brake! Its your best work ever.
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Mike H.

Sven was right.
JezWest
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« Reply #23 on: August 12, 2011, 18:45:05 pm »

Sanding the brass horn ring contact on the steering wheel to stop the annoying scraping noise when steering.

Adjusting the oil cooler tin to get a proper seal.

Installing head temp sender & gauge.

Replacing the head stud I snapped whilst retorqueing the head studs (oops!).
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It was nothing to do with me...
javabug
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WHAT'S UP WID DA BOOM BOOM???


« Reply #24 on: August 14, 2011, 02:02:19 am »

Replacing the head stud I snapped whilst retorqueing the head studs (oops!).

Take it easy ya brute!    Shocked
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Mike H.

Sven was right.
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