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| | |-+  what sort of a modification for a standerd hand brake to use to pre loading
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Author Topic: what sort of a modification for a standerd hand brake to use to pre loading  (Read 4627 times)
devil child
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« on: November 20, 2010, 22:19:21 pm »

was wondering what sort of a modification can do to the standered hand brake system to pre load the gear box b4 launching, and still be able to use as a hand brake when parked the car,
any thing to make it strong, or etc etc,
if there's any pic's would be really helpful,
many thanx
gee
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Dougy Dee
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Posts: 154


« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2010, 01:26:15 am »

Push the handbrake button in and drill through the steel grip and button.
Get a large head nail, I used an aluminum trim nail, and place it thru the hole. (Make sure the hole is large enough for the nail.)
You hold the handbrake on to preload the trans. When you let go it'll release and you're 'good to go'.
Pull the nail and it's back to a normal handbrake. If it was any simpler VW would have designed it...
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AutoManics
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« Reply #2 on: November 24, 2010, 19:59:35 pm »

You would be better off drilling the handle/button and using an 'R' clip, easily removable to use the handbrake normally when not on the track and won't shake loose on a run.
« Last Edit: November 24, 2010, 20:01:21 pm by AutoManics » Logged

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Fastbrit
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Keep smiling...


« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2010, 20:39:06 pm »


1 = pin to hold in button goes here: push button in, insert pit-pin…
2 = extension to bring handle nearer to hand (arrow also points to wear you can store the pin when not using it as a staging brake.
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Der Kleiner Panzers VW Club    
12.56sec street-driven Cal Looker in 1995
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Black Sheep
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less is more


« Reply #4 on: November 24, 2010, 21:33:25 pm »

Duck tape  Wink Roll Eyes
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Stick with what you know works .
13.03 @ 98mph
Pas
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Posts: 562



« Reply #5 on: November 25, 2010, 01:15:52 am »

Another way of pining the button in, I drilled a hole at the base of the cable clamps (you can just about see it), this holds back the toothed arm that engages with the ratchet. This way your hand or glove can't snag on the pin.
« Last Edit: November 25, 2010, 01:22:56 am by Pas » Logged

You stay classy, Cal-look Lounge.
Christofe
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« Reply #6 on: November 25, 2010, 21:43:23 pm »

Another way of pining the button in, I drilled a hole at the base of the cable clamps (you can just about see it), this holds back the toothed arm that engages with the ratchet. This way your hand or glove can't snag on the pin.

I'm using that system for two years now ! works great and really cheap

Christofe
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vwxtc4free
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« Reply #7 on: November 26, 2010, 05:04:35 am »

I took the spring out and got a "drift button" off ebay . .... When you want to use the brake..... Just pull out the button while pulling up.....

The button has a ridge to grip it......Had to file original button down to slip new one on....also I have since modified it for a micro switch in

the button....line-lock along w/fuel pump works when 3-way dash switch is all the way up....center is off...all the way down is 2 step w/fuel

 pump.... Next is to put a small spring under lever just to insure it goes down quickly. [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
« Last Edit: November 26, 2010, 05:09:17 am by vwxtc4free » Logged

Eric Justus
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« Reply #8 on: November 28, 2010, 03:36:43 am »


1 = pin to hold in button goes here: push button in, insert pit-pin…
2 = extension to bring handle nearer to hand (arrow also points to wear you can store the pin when not using it as a staging brake.

Thats pretty slick Cool
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Eric Justus
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Zündfunke
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« Reply #9 on: December 20, 2010, 22:32:52 pm »

I did my bit today.
Concept is the same as shown above by Keith.
Total costs for an old hand brake: 1,-€  Grin

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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BURN OUT Syndrom
Black Sheep
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« Reply #10 on: December 20, 2010, 23:03:53 pm »

sweet  Cool
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Stick with what you know works .
13.03 @ 98mph
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