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| | |-+  Checking cylinders for round - how?
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Author Topic: Checking cylinders for round - how?  (Read 7391 times)
jamiep_jamiep
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« on: December 09, 2010, 00:13:22 am »

Any what tools are needed?

Thanks!
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DKK Ted
DKK
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« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2010, 01:57:52 am »

A dial bore gage, you check the cylinder going around for roundness and up and down the cylinder for straightness. To me, that is the only correct way to do it. Can use an inside mic. but is a hassle and not as accurate.

Ted
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bugnut68
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« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2010, 02:08:26 am »

A dial bore gage, you check the cylinder going around for roundness and up and down the cylinder for straightness. To me, that is the only correct way to do it. Can use an inside mic. but is a hassle and not as accurate.

Ted

x2!

Dial-bore gauge was a handy tool I purchased some time back.  Was able to verify a used set of 90.5 "B" cylinders I bought were good to go with a good hone job.  Can't go wrong investing in tools. Grin
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DKK Ted
DKK
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« Reply #3 on: December 09, 2010, 02:38:48 am »

Thank you Ryan, This is 30+years as being a Machinist.  Grin  Cool

Ted
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bugnut68
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« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2010, 03:09:01 am »

Thank you Ryan, This is 30+years as being a Machinist.  Grin  Cool

Ted

There's no substitute for the proper tool! Grin  I just scored a Mitutoyo (spelling??) depth mic, though missing a couple anvils, for $10 at an estate sale recently... I was pretty stoked, to say the least!
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DKK Ted
DKK
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« Reply #5 on: December 09, 2010, 03:35:26 am »

Ryan, thats a good deal, but ya need to make sure it's accurate. The anvils are adjustable, if there is a small machine shop near you, you might want to see if they can calibrate/check'em out. Just my 2cents.

Ted
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DKK Ted
DKK
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« Reply #6 on: December 09, 2010, 03:37:27 am »

The 0-1" anvil you can do on something very flat, but the other anvils need to be checked.

Ted
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bugnut68
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« Reply #7 on: December 09, 2010, 03:42:19 am »

Good to know, will check it out!  Worst case scenario I'm only out 10 bucks...lol.  I"ve got a brand new depth mic I bought earlier this summer, too, so I'm not completely without one that's in spec.
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DKK Ted
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« Reply #8 on: December 09, 2010, 04:09:14 am »

The old set will be just as good as your new set after calibration, good to have a back up. I love tools....it's neat to go in your toolbox and get what ya need to do the job right.  Grin

Ted
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jamiep_jamiep
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« Reply #9 on: December 09, 2010, 08:40:50 am »

Thanks for the info guys!
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BeetleBug
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Snabba grabben...


« Reply #10 on: December 09, 2010, 09:09:50 am »

Question;

How do you know that they are round after you have torqued the head?

From the low reading on your compression tool?
Poor results on the leak down test?
Rings not sealing?
The blue smoke out your exhaust?
Low HP readings?
Low ET?

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/goNVh8Dsspc" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/goNVh8Dsspc</a>
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #11 on: December 14, 2010, 21:07:07 pm »

Thanks for sharing BB ! Another lesson learned. Now, i just purchased a set of 94 Wiseco pistons w/ Mahle cylinders. I'm searching high and low on the net but only find different figures, opinions etc. on side clearance.
Right now i'm waiting on reply from Pat Downs. But what would be youre or anybody here on the Lounge's opinion.
Thanks,
Harry
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Paul Bate
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« Reply #12 on: December 14, 2010, 21:28:10 pm »

Hello FDK/Hurry,

I've used the same set up for 5+ years on the road and with a little shot of NOS and you need to have 5 1/2 to 6 thou piston to barrell clearence. The ring gaps also need to be bigger than stated by Wiseco as we are aircooled! I usually take the next highest ring gap to the state of tune on the instructions.

I hope this helps

Kind regards

Paul
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #13 on: December 14, 2010, 22:26:47 pm »

Thanks Paul !
PM to you.

Best Regards,
Harry
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #14 on: December 14, 2010, 22:51:24 pm »

So i will go 0.15 mm (tight) on side clearence. 0.12 mm top-ring and 0.14 mm 2nd ring.
« Last Edit: December 15, 2010, 18:42:59 pm by FDK/Hurry » Logged

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