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Author Topic: Who´s racing with fan belt off?  (Read 9027 times)
181
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« on: June 09, 2011, 14:39:04 pm »

I´d like to hear techniques, tips and stories about running the 1/4 mile with fan belt removed. I´m looking for a quick way for few extra ponnies:-) My plan is to use wing nut on the generator and reinstall the fan belt at the end of track. Is there such a thing as stretchy fan belt for quick removal and temporary use? I´ve heard about using a piece of nylon hoses instead of fan belt to keep the fan moving..

How much did you gain on dyno or strip with no fan belt?
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BeetleBug
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Snabba grabben...


« Reply #1 on: June 09, 2011, 17:09:43 pm »

You gain 10 - 15hp.

Take it off before the start and install it before you start on the return back to the depot. Simple.

Perhaps not so smart to do 1/8 mile burnouts and play tactics for several minutes at the lights with 5000 rpms on the engine but I`m sure you get my point.
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10.41 - 100ci - 1641ccm - 400hp
Chris bugster
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« Reply #2 on: June 09, 2011, 20:48:30 pm »

We ran a 1914cc 1966 Beetle last Saturday at the local 1/8 mile drag meet without a belt. The problem was that you had to come back round and do another pass staight away in order to qualify. The engine oil got to almost 110 degress c by the time the car got back to the pits after the two passes. The outside temp was about 30. The valve clearance opened up a bit, but after a reset all was ok. Don't think we'll try this again if the rules stay the same regarding qualifying. We came last in a small field and one second behind the winner- modified 6000cc Merc SL.
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11.2@124mph
JS
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« Reply #3 on: June 09, 2011, 21:23:43 pm »

Use a proper fan belt and keep a 21mm in the glove box if you have one. Install before return lane.
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Jason Foster
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« Reply #4 on: June 10, 2011, 01:08:42 am »

I take mine off in the lanes and put it back on after the run.
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Bruce
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« Reply #5 on: June 10, 2011, 05:15:38 am »

  My plan is to use wing nut on the generator
That won't work.  You won't be able to tighten the nut enough, and the vibrations during the run will make the wing nut fall off with the pulley half and all the other bits.
Just keep a wrench in the car.  Take it off in the staging lanes.  Put it back on at the top end of the track. Driving back will cool the engine back down.
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BeetleBug
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Snabba grabben...


« Reply #6 on: June 10, 2011, 09:23:07 am »

After thinking a little I remembered this video:

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/BQhfcdQf1QA" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/BQhfcdQf1QA</a>

Do one hell of a burn out then go out of the car, do the video tricks, back in the car, stage, race and put it back on.  Wink
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Chris bugster
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« Reply #7 on: June 11, 2011, 00:33:57 am »

I like that video. I like it a lot Grin
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Bruce
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« Reply #8 on: June 11, 2011, 04:50:44 am »

Do one hell of a burn out then go out of the car, do the video tricks, back in the car, stage, race and put it back on. 
If you did that in front of any track official, you'd be kicked out immediately.
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Jesus
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« Reply #9 on: June 11, 2011, 09:43:20 am »

Try using one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EMERGENCY-Fan-Drive-BELT-Car-Boat-Truck-Plant-UNIVERSAL_W0QQitemZ370513251234QQcmdZViewItem#vi-desc



Get to the end of the track,

fit this temporary belt,

drive back at low RPM and it should hold and add a bit of cooling,

then simply pull it back off again.

Have seen a few people use them before!
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Jesus
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« Reply #10 on: June 11, 2011, 09:45:22 am »

Do one hell of a burn out then go out of the car, do the video tricks, back in the car, stage, race and put it back on.
If you did that in front of any track official, you'd be kicked out immediately.

I have a feeling he was taking the piss Wink

anyone stupid enough to stick a screwdriver in a spinning belt deserves a broken finger or two!
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neil68
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« Reply #11 on: June 12, 2011, 00:43:40 am »

I´d like to hear techniques, tips and stories about running the 1/4 mile with fan belt removed

For 1/4-mile racing, I pull off my fan belt in the staging lanes, when I get near the front of the line.

Then after the race (at my home track) I go to the end of the track and on the return road I simply pull over and put on an old fan belt without removing the pulley (just turn the pulley and the belt slips on with a half-turn).  Yes, it wears the belt out eventually, but I can race all season before I start to wreck a belt via this quick installation.

At one track, I'm not permitted to do this, so I just hot lap and haven't seen any issues.  I do put the belt on in the staging lanes, so that I can cool the engine as we inch forward in the lanes.
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Neil
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Neil Davies
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« Reply #12 on: June 13, 2011, 14:40:28 pm »

For 1/4-mile racing, I pull off my fan belt in the staging lanes, when I get near the front of the line.

Then after the race (at my home track) I go to the end of the track and on the return road I simply pull over and put on an old fan belt without removing the pulley (just turn the pulley and the belt slips on with a half-turn).  Yes, it wears the belt out eventually, but I can race all season before I start to wreck a belt via this quick installation.

At one track, I'm not permitted to do this, so I just hot lap and haven't seen any issues.  I do put the belt on in the staging lanes, so that I can cool the engine as we inch forward in the lanes.


How about wiring the generator in reverse, to use it as a motor to power the fan around? I think I first heard about the Bergs doing that on Sonic Muffin way back when.
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TexasTom
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« Reply #13 on: June 13, 2011, 19:40:12 pm »

I think this has been discussed before.
I have a switch that grounds the field of my generator and turns it into a motor ... spins about 750(?)rpm, just enough to clear the dead air out of the sheet metal. I take the belt off before and replace after the run too, but the extra air makes a big difference. I have also left it off for the day when I have a power source to recharge the battery between rounds ... works great!

On an extra note, the larger guage the wire to the field post, the faster the generator will spin when grounded ...
Another vote for generators Wink
TxT
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Work, work, WORK!

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Brandon Sinclair
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« Reply #14 on: June 14, 2011, 04:13:27 am »

This is available too...
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ESM0067&cartid=
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Black Sheep
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less is more


« Reply #15 on: June 14, 2011, 08:15:16 am »

If your gonna try this make sure you have a battery in top notch condition with a maximum charge in it .
I tried this a Shakey last year , my own battery wasn't up to it  Roll Eyes
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/V7pbdcaYqr0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/V7pbdcaYqr0</a>
When the RPM's got up past 6 grand I suffered a misfire due to lack of amps , and ran a whole second slower than my previous run .
You can here this when I change gear , still on the plus side i still whipped the Ricer  Grin
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Stick with what you know works .
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TexasTom
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« Reply #16 on: June 14, 2011, 14:30:26 pm »

Yep, that can be a problem!

Three words ... Mag Knee Toe  Wink
LMAO
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danny gabbard
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gabfab


« Reply #17 on: June 20, 2011, 15:44:02 pm »

A old timer I looked up to , Don oper.  Used a A/C clutch off a GM car and adapted it for his upper pully, To me that was pretty cleaver!
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