|
65bug
|
 |
« on: June 16, 2011, 00:31:44 am » |
|
Hi guys, Well, I busted out my Gene Berg traction bar and read the instructions. Seems pretty darn easy. However, I know there has to be some tips and advice out there to make a super cool install! I do have a few questions though: 1. The traction bad sits on that little square just below the oil pump? Not the two little nubs in between it and the sump? Wow! Kinda small area. 2. Did both of your mounting bolt holes come out through the bottom of the engine bay? Looks like one is marginal and could end up in the engine bay?? I don't want that! Thanks!  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
stealth67vw
|
|
« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2011, 01:05:58 am » |
|
I bought a Bugpack traction bar at a swap meet and used the hardware for my Berg traction bar so I didn't have to drill any holes.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
John Bates
JB Machining Services
1967 street bug 2020lbs w/driver
12.34 @ 108 mph 1/4
7.76 @ 89mph 1/8
|
|
|
|
glenn
|
|
« Reply #2 on: June 16, 2011, 01:43:51 am » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Zach Gomulka
|
|
« Reply #3 on: June 16, 2011, 02:27:10 am » |
|
I didn't lilke the idea of drilling up the body for those ugly brackets, so I took the advice of someone here on the Lounge and used the factory hole in the body right by the valve cover and shortened the rods to match. Plug and play. Easy!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
|
|
|
|
65bug
|
|
« Reply #4 on: June 16, 2011, 02:31:04 am » |
|
Thanks Glenn! Those are perfect pics! Looks pretty straight forward! I am hoping for less wheel hopping/burn outs and more straight forward harder acceleration Thank you Zach, you have a picture of yours? Not sure where you are referring too. I will venture out to the garage and have a look.............. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
glenn
|
|
« Reply #5 on: June 16, 2011, 02:43:40 am » |
|
Zach,
My care is a 74 and has the energy absorbing bumper mounts so I can't use the bumper bracket bolts.
65bug,
I have zero wheel hop with the Berg bar and mid mount.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Zach Gomulka
|
|
« Reply #6 on: June 16, 2011, 07:34:50 am » |
|
See that small hole in the body directly under the bracket? Bin the bracket, and put the bent part of the threaded rod directly in that hole. Then all you have to do is figure out how much you need to shorten the rod, and install. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
|
|
|
|
BeetleBug
|
|
« Reply #7 on: June 16, 2011, 07:48:55 am » |
|
See that small hole in the body directly under the bracket? Bin the bracket, and put the bent part of the threaded rod directly in that hole. Then all you have to do is figure out how much you need to shorten the rod, and install.
That`s right Zach, no nee to drill extra holes in you car. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
10.41 - 100ci - 1641ccm - 400hp
|
|
|
|
javabug
|
|
« Reply #8 on: June 16, 2011, 11:34:29 am » |
|
Same method here. I had to tap another .75" or so of threads on mine in addition to shortening the rod.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Mike H.
Sven was right.
|
|
|
|
BeetleBug
|
|
« Reply #9 on: June 16, 2011, 11:38:40 am » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
10.41 - 100ci - 1641ccm - 400hp
|
|
|
|
Nico86
|
|
« Reply #10 on: June 16, 2011, 12:30:25 pm » |
|
Interesting link, must be easy to do something with the bumper brackets. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Zach Gomulka
|
|
« Reply #11 on: June 16, 2011, 14:27:33 pm » |
|
Same method here. I had to tap another .75" or so of threads on mine in addition to shortening the rod.
I cut just the bend off, and put another bend in the rod. Worked perfect. The threads are rolled, so I felt this was the best way. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
|
|
|
|
Jesse/DVK
|
|
« Reply #12 on: June 16, 2011, 15:06:54 pm » |
|
Do you guys think the hole/bumper brackets will be strong enough when you have a removable rear valence? I also use a A1 lowdown header which should complicate thing further :p.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Der Vollgas Kreuzers
|
|
|
|
65bug
|
|
« Reply #13 on: June 16, 2011, 15:32:29 pm » |
|
Thanks everyone! I have a project this morning! |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Matty c
|
|
« Reply #14 on: June 16, 2011, 15:33:30 pm » |
|
Do you guys think the hole/bumper brackets will be strong enough when you have a removable rear valence? I also use a A1 lowdown header which should complicate thing further :p.
If you run a brace between both rear bumper hangers it will be just fine. I also have a lowdown & my berg traction bar clears it no problem. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
67heaven
|
|
|
|
Zach Gomulka
|
|
« Reply #15 on: June 16, 2011, 16:02:18 pm » |
|
Do you guys think the hole/bumper brackets will be strong enough when you have a removable rear valence? I also use a A1 lowdown header which should complicate thing further :p.
AssHull's '67 has a removable rear apron and I did the traction bar this way, no problems. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
|
|
|
|
javabug
|
|
« Reply #16 on: June 16, 2011, 17:48:29 pm » |
|
Same method here. I had to tap another .75" or so of threads on mine in addition to shortening the rod.
I cut just the bend off, and put another bend in the rod. Worked perfect. The threads are rolled, so I felt this was the best way. I thought about approaching it that way, but wasn't sure I could get a "nice" bend in it again. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Mike H.
Sven was right.
|
|
|
|
Zach Gomulka
|
|
« Reply #17 on: June 16, 2011, 19:03:58 pm » |
|
Same method here. I had to tap another .75" or so of threads on mine in addition to shortening the rod.
I cut just the bend off, and put another bend in the rod. Worked perfect. The threads are rolled, so I felt this was the best way. I thought about approaching it that way, but wasn't sure I could get a "nice" bend in it again. We took it to a steel place with a heavy duty brake. Only cost a couple bucks. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
|
|
|
|
Jesse/DVK
|
|
« Reply #18 on: June 16, 2011, 21:38:01 pm » |
|
Thanks Zach and 67 heaven!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Der Vollgas Kreuzers
|
|
|
|
neil68
|
|
« Reply #19 on: June 17, 2011, 02:56:05 am » |
|
The Berg bracket is set up to use the "strength" of the thicker bumper sheet metal, for extra bracket support. That small bottom hole "might" be fine, but it wouldn't be as strong, and could be an issue, if you are launching fiercely...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Zach Gomulka
|
|
« Reply #20 on: June 17, 2011, 03:01:34 am » |
|
The Berg bracket is set up to use the "strength" of the thicker bumper sheet metal, for extra bracket support. That small bottom hole "might" be fine, but it wouldn't be as strong, and could be an issue, if you are launching fiercely...
It's two thick where that hole is. The Berg bracket only goes to a single thickness of metal (granted it's distributing it over a larger area, but still). I can't imagine that hole ripping out in even the most brutal of street cars. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
|
|
|
|
neil68
|
|
« Reply #21 on: June 17, 2011, 03:50:33 am » |
|
The Berg bracket is set up to use the "strength" of the thicker bumper sheet metal, for extra bracket support. That small bottom hole "might" be fine, but it wouldn't be as strong, and could be an issue, if you are launching fiercely...
It's two thick where that hole is. The Berg bracket only goes to a single thickness of metal (granted it's distributing it over a larger area, but still). I can't imagine that hole ripping out in even the most brutal of street cars. What I meant was the Berg bracket "sits on top of the bumper ledge", so that the pressure from the launch is taken by the thick ledge that juts out horizontally. I've seen plenty of Beetles with rust in the area where that factory hole is already drilled...so I'm just saying that drivers should use caution when relying on it. If your Beetle is totally sound in the area of the factory hole, then you might be okay... |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Lee.C
|
|
« Reply #22 on: June 18, 2011, 21:42:39 pm » |
|
Any Tips: Yeah DON'T use it!!!!! Its a load of crap! For a start how on earth can you call a piece of standard 1" steel box section with 2 holes drilled in it a "Traction Bar"  its the worst solution to a problem I have ever seen! you are completely relying on the BODY sheet metal to absorb all the forces - Its a RUBBISH piece of engineering! |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
You either "Get It" or you don't......
|
|
|
|
Zach Gomulka
|
|
« Reply #23 on: June 18, 2011, 21:51:47 pm » |
|
Ok, I agree calling it a "traction bar" might be a stretch (in the V8 sense of the word), but it is a simple solution to the hop problem and it does work!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
|
|
|
|
Lee.C
|
|
« Reply #24 on: June 18, 2011, 22:05:50 pm » |
|
ok it might "work" for a while - Until the sheet metal starts tearing! I have just never liked the idea of these dude - you know me I like to speak my mind hehehehehe  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
You either "Get It" or you don't......
|
|
|
|
John Rayburn
|
|
« Reply #25 on: June 18, 2011, 22:26:16 pm » |
|
Using that small hole used to be REAL common. If you sat near the track at OCIR at the old Bug Ins, you risked getting clocked in the head from traction bars flying off the cars. It happened a lot with that set up.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
I also park at Nick's.
|
|
|
|
javabug
|
|
« Reply #26 on: June 19, 2011, 01:25:46 am » |
|
Getting clocked in the head with a traction bar is old school cal-look!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Mike H.
Sven was right.
|
|
|
|
Donny B.
|
|
« Reply #27 on: June 19, 2011, 01:52:23 am » |
|
ok it might "work" for a while - Until the sheet metal starts tearing! Wink Obviously you don't know what you are talking about. I have used mine for 17 years now and no problem. You have to look at what it is doing. If it was pulling sideways then there might be a problem, but it is pulling down and the strength is there to support it. I followed the Berg instructions which are very good and it works. Talk to an engineer and perhaps you will understand it is the way the stress is applied that allows it to work over and over. ...so there... |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Don Bulitta
Wolfsburg Registry
|
|
|
|
Zach Gomulka
|
|
« Reply #28 on: June 19, 2011, 04:10:13 am » |
|
Getting clocked in the head with a traction bar is old school cal-look!
Haha yeah!! Bend it a bit past 90°, it's not going anywhere |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
|
|
|
|
65bug
|
|
« Reply #29 on: June 19, 2011, 05:22:51 am » |
|
Hey guys, Well, I scratched my head and tried all sorts of configurations for my mounting tabs. EVEN PUTTING THE TABS WHERE THE DIRECTIONS STATE TO, MY HANGERS ARE WAY TO LONG. They need to be cut down. I am thinking I am going to use the single hole already in my body, then cut the hangers down and extend the threads wayyy up the rod. Next, the pad that sits under the motor.......................I dont know. It's such a small area. If you go with the longest part of the flat area, then the whole bar is off center. If you use the very end of the flat spot, it's really small. I am still looking at different ways to mount. Seems to be the Bugpack Kafer bar set up is MUCH nicer and certainly more solid of a unit... I am a engineer by trade, so I will figure out something I like. IF NOT, I will sell it and buy the Kafer bar instead...............  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
The Cal-look Lounge
Author
