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| | |-+  Bugpack Flanged Flywheel versus stock OEM starter motor ???
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Author Topic: Bugpack Flanged Flywheel versus stock OEM starter motor ???  (Read 3781 times)
Shane Noone
Sr. Member
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Posts: 267


« on: July 15, 2011, 21:06:27 pm »

Hi guys not sure wether to ask this question on cal look or pure racing so will do both.If anyone has done this and can help, I need an urgent answer / solution please.

I have a flanged crank / flywheel combo on my 2332 T1 and firstly had clearance issues in the Rhino T1 box ( needed some case clearancing ) and now after just 20 road miles the starter motor has been killed so we are wondering if you need a special / different model starter when running this flywheel setup in a T1 box Huh

We already had a near miss when using the flange flywheel discovering you need to install a spigot bearing into it to support the gearbox inout shaft.
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Tekken
Sr. Member
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Posts: 307


www.proturbovw.com


« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2011, 21:08:16 pm »

Hi Shane.
I run a Mendeola trans, but also got a problem with my starter.Had a flanged Scat crank/flywheel on the previous engine,no probems.Now a Bugpack flanged crank/flywheel,seems like the flywheel is bigger in diameter.Had to raise the starter just a little,did'nt engage properly.

-Stian
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Shane Noone
Sr. Member
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Posts: 267


« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2011, 20:25:27 pm »

Hi Tekken and thanks for that info and feedback.This indeed a curious situation.How did you raise the starter ? By standing it further away on the bellhousing studs by washers / nuts etc ? Or did it need to move the other way....I am guessing an alignment issue between flywheel ring gear and starter gear ?

Thanks Shane.
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Shane Noone
Sr. Member
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Posts: 267


« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2011, 20:43:29 pm »

Tekken not sure what happened to the text in my reply to you ? Weird.
What I was asking is did you have to space the starter further back on the mounting stud on the bellhousing ( towards the front of the car ) or machine starter face or bellhousing face to let it the starter gear sit further in as am guessing there was an alignment issue between flywheel ring gear and starter gear Huh
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Tekken
Sr. Member
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Posts: 307


www.proturbovw.com


« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2011, 04:29:22 am »

Hi.
Yes,it was alignment between flywheel ring gear and starter gear that was the problem in my case.The starter gear hit the side of the flywheel ring gear, made the starter gear spin against the side of the flywheel and made a bad sound.It's like the flywheel ring gear has a bigger diameter than normal..I machined the step on the starter face that center it in the bellhousig to a smaller diameter, so I could move the starter gear position like 1 mm or so.
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Shane Noone
Sr. Member
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Posts: 267


« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2011, 22:26:59 pm »

Hi Tekken.Ok maybe your issue was a little different to mine ? Are you saying the gear on your starter never engaged with the flywheel to turn the engine over ?

My starter must be engaging with the flywheel to some extent as it cranks the engine over so it can fire and run.However we are not sure wether the starter gear is able to retract and clear the flywheel once this has happened or wether it is being dragged around by the flywheel until the starter grenades.

When fitting the motor the clutch cover fouled in the bellhousing against the area of material that supports the release bearing cross shaft opposite the starter.We ground some material away until theer was clearance to crank the motor by hand cleanly.This may mean the flywheel is sitting more deeply into the gearbox than usual and hence the starter motor problems with alignment of teeth issues ?
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StrokerMcDell
Full Member
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Posts: 123


« Reply #6 on: July 22, 2011, 09:59:34 am »

You need to establish how far in your starter gear is going.
Try taking it out and putting some tippex on the gear then reinstall and try spinning it up.

What make of clutch cover are you using?

Regds
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Shane Noone
Sr. Member
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Posts: 267


« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2011, 16:57:00 pm »

Thanks Stroker,good tip,will do.Clutch is KEP stage2.
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