matt schlicht
Newbie
Posts: 5
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« on: August 01, 2011, 00:26:51 am » |
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I have a 2 liter that has 1.5 inch exhaust. I have been fighting loose nuts for years! I am sick of it! I run the 8mm nut that takes a 11mm wrench. Help! What do you do to prevent this?
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Donny B.
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« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2011, 00:38:41 am » |
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Hi Matt, I use the same hardware, but I use an thick washer from a head stud set and grind edge of it it to clear the header. Then I tighten it very tight and have been know to use loctite. They don't come loose. The washer distributes the load, doesn't distort and helps with keeping it tight.
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Don Bulitta Wolfsburg Registry
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TexasTom
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« Reply #2 on: August 01, 2011, 01:07:58 am » |
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I acknowledge your frustration. Donny has a good idea and it's effective. If there's room on the stud, try putting an original (though new) wavy washer in between ... made the difference for me. Good luck with it! TxT
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Work, work, WORK!
Modesty accepted here ...
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matt schlicht
Newbie
Posts: 5
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« Reply #3 on: August 01, 2011, 02:54:20 am » |
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Thanks for the help guys! What loctite are you using? I figured it was to hot of an application for loctite.
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Donny B.
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« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2011, 04:03:37 am » |
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I use blue loctite. Red is pretty final...
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Don Bulitta Wolfsburg Registry
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Nico86
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« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2011, 12:05:56 pm » |
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I've had the same problem with the header/to muffler triangle flange, I use this now :
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deano
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« Reply #6 on: August 01, 2011, 16:40:28 pm » |
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I would think that part of the problem is that the exhaust gaskets are compressing with heat and age. Also, thin flanges could be an issue as well. I know some don't even use a proper gasket at all, and just use a hi-heat sealant..
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Hot VWs Magazine Window Washer Anglia Obsolete Guru '67 Heaven
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neil68
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« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2011, 20:40:45 pm » |
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A few years ago, I switched to the copper flange gaskets and the Bugpack 8/11 mm nuts and have had no issues since then. The brass 8/11 mm nuts that I used to use, just weren't very strong, when torqued the threads would get damaged. The Bugpack tall 8/11 mm nuts are silver in colour and take a lot of torque. I also put anti-seize on the threads. I've had my latest engine apart several times to change camshafts (experimenting) and the exhaust nuts are always tight now: http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C12%2D2512%2D20
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JS
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« Reply #8 on: August 01, 2011, 21:01:42 pm » |
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neil68´s solution also worked well for me.
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Signature.
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Mike Maize
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« Reply #9 on: August 02, 2011, 00:51:38 am » |
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Same as Neil for me as well, both cars.I actually forgot how often they used to get loose until I read this!
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Donny B.
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« Reply #10 on: August 02, 2011, 03:11:30 am » |
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I also forgot to mention that I use Vanagon exhaust gaskets. They are a combination of metal and fiber and seem to work well for exhausts up to 5/8 in.
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Don Bulitta Wolfsburg Registry
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Dave Galassi
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« Reply #11 on: August 02, 2011, 06:06:34 am » |
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Donny, I found that to be the ticket on the gaskets as well. The quality of the Vanagon gaskets is reallly good.
I've also used (what I recall are) Rabbit copper exhaust manifold nuts (with the pinched tops to hold on the the stud) on my truck and recently found some cool ones to use that are originally on a 2004 BMW 7 series engine I took apart. They are similar to the Bugpack nuts but have what I think is a wider flange at the base.
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kingsburgphil
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« Reply #12 on: August 02, 2011, 06:30:13 am » |
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I think you'll find most any new car with 8mm ex studs uses a metallic self locking nut. These nuts like their non-metallic self locking (nyloc) counterparts lose their effectiveness with reuse.
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HERB
Newbie
Posts: 43
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« Reply #13 on: August 02, 2011, 16:59:15 pm » |
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The copper nuts that VW uses are actually copper plated steel with a 12mm hex, part #N..90894601. I've also used the Vanagon gaskets since 1984 with no leaks.
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Bruce
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« Reply #14 on: August 03, 2011, 06:17:28 am » |
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With a 1½" tube, you don't need the 11mm OD nuts. Use 12s or 13s. The larger contact area will not damage the steel flange resulting in a loose nut. I use anti-seize, Loctite won't work at those high temps.
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Gunter
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« Reply #15 on: August 03, 2011, 07:35:34 am » |
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Fiatdude
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« Reply #16 on: August 03, 2011, 12:11:35 pm » |
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I just "accidently" put a dab of high temp silicon on the threads before I start the nut onto the thread. It acts as a lubricant for installing the nuts and it cleans up very nicely with a small steel brush when you want to-- -- was shown this trick by an old guy way back in the 70's when I was drag racing my blower bike -- and that beast had enough vibration to loosen any bolt or nut LOL
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Fiat -- GONE Ovalholio -- GONE Ghia -- -- It's going Get lost for an evening or two -- http://selvedgeyard.com/Remember, as you travel the highway of life, For every mile of road, there is 2 miles of ditch
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Peter
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« Reply #17 on: August 03, 2011, 13:29:45 pm » |
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Hey Harold, can you tell us the partno of that silicone I couldnt find it in the store
(need it for the exhaust)
Peter
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Harry/FDK
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« Reply #18 on: August 03, 2011, 14:16:44 pm » |
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Hi Peter, you might using this.
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Done ? Not Yet.
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danny gabbard
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« Reply #19 on: August 03, 2011, 15:04:57 pm » |
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Anybody try useing aircraft jet nuts ?
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A poor craftsman, Blame's it on poor tools. GAB-FAB shop # 775 246-3069
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Peter
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« Reply #20 on: August 03, 2011, 16:38:05 pm » |
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hello Harry, its says max temp for a short time is only 300? Jim talked about copper RTV some time ago? or is it this product maybe?
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Kaferdog
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« Reply #21 on: August 03, 2011, 20:09:04 pm » |
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I've been using the 3/8 flanged nuts for 2 years and have had no problems..! if you can find the hardened nuts it would be better...!
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"I am on a drug, it's called 'Volkswagen.' It's not available 'cause if you try it once you will die. Your face will melt off, and children will weep over your exploded body."
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Type1/DVK
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« Reply #22 on: August 03, 2011, 21:16:20 pm » |
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Harry, that dirko cannot be used for hot exhaust nuts...
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DDD#8 - 14.74sec @ 1776cc - Member of: DVK ~ Der Vollgas Kreuzers - www.ultimatevw.nl - and racing engines
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Dominick Luppino
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« Reply #23 on: August 03, 2011, 21:38:28 pm » |
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I just use the CV Joint washers, works for me, I also use them on my intake manifolds.
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Wout
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« Reply #24 on: August 04, 2011, 21:16:24 pm » |
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I've used copper nuts (special 12mm wide in stead of 13mm).
gr Wout
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Fiatdude
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« Reply #25 on: August 05, 2011, 04:09:41 am » |
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I just used the cheap clear silicon -- worked perfect, even as a gasket material -- It wasn't until I started super heating the exhaust with turbos did it start to fail -- Red stuff now
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Fiat -- GONE Ovalholio -- GONE Ghia -- -- It's going Get lost for an evening or two -- http://selvedgeyard.com/Remember, as you travel the highway of life, For every mile of road, there is 2 miles of ditch
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Peter
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« Reply #26 on: August 05, 2011, 08:34:52 am » |
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Whats the red stuff then Harold?
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jonas_linder
Newbie
Posts: 12
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« Reply #27 on: August 05, 2011, 10:59:53 am » |
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This washer is the shit, you don't even have to torque the bolt down really hard. www.nord-lock.com
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Fiatdude
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« Reply #28 on: August 05, 2011, 11:06:25 am » |
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Fiat -- GONE Ovalholio -- GONE Ghia -- -- It's going Get lost for an evening or two -- http://selvedgeyard.com/Remember, as you travel the highway of life, For every mile of road, there is 2 miles of ditch
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Peter
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« Reply #29 on: August 05, 2011, 13:30:18 pm » |
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Thanks a lot !!
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