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Author Topic: 48 IDA...short or long manifold??  (Read 26944 times)
nightmair nick
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« on: October 03, 2011, 20:18:18 pm »

was wondering what s the difference beside clearance issues ?
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Lids
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« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2011, 20:33:16 pm »

something to do with torque and power bands.  John maher gave a very detailed reply in the racing section a while back.

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,8136.msg124195.html#msg124195
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Rick Meredith
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« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2011, 00:07:25 am »

Basically longer runners make the power down lower in the RPM range and shorter runners make the power at higher RPMs.
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67 Beetle - The Deuce Roadster of Cal Look
TexasTom
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« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2011, 00:09:56 am »

... and short manifolds are a BITCH to do plugs ...
UNLESS you either pull the engine or take the fenders off and cut out the fenderwells.
BUT, they LOOK cool. Wink
TxT
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Bruce
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« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2011, 05:01:20 am »

... and short manifolds are a BITCH to do plugs ...
.... but way easier to fit air cleaners.
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Rick Meredith
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« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2011, 05:18:41 am »

... and short manifolds are a BITCH to do plugs ...
.... but way easier to fit air cleaners.

Air Cleaners?? We don't need no stinkin' AIR CLEANERS!  Grin  Grin
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67 Beetle - The Deuce Roadster of Cal Look
stealth67vw
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« Reply #6 on: October 04, 2011, 05:56:15 am »

... and short manifolds are a BITCH to do plugs ...
UNLESS you either pull the engine or take the fenders off and cut out the fenderwells.
BUT, they LOOK cool. Wink
TxT
I don't think I've ever pulled all 4 plugs with the carbs still on the motor even with tall manifolds.
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John Bates
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« Reply #7 on: October 05, 2011, 06:41:13 am »

No trimming of the body or deck lid is necessary. 
But good luck on the plugs. Dyno the motor before installation.  You only wan to do it once.
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Udo
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« Reply #8 on: October 05, 2011, 19:53:52 pm »

... and short manifolds are a BITCH to do plugs ...
UNLESS you either pull the engine or take the fenders off and cut out the fenderwells.
BUT, they LOOK cool. Wink
TxT
I don't think I've ever pulled all 4 plugs with the carbs still on the motor even with tall manifolds.

If you relocate the spark plugs you can get them out :-)
Vee dub parts has some nice short ida manifolds ...
Udo
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So.Cal.Life
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« Reply #9 on: October 06, 2011, 06:58:02 am »

   I have had both deanos and skat traks, and with the right combination of ratchets, extentions, plug sockets etc. I never found it all that difficult, I must say a bench grinder and a little common sense used to alter your tools is a considerable help, if you are using the big velocity stacks, removing #1&3 would help also....  no holes in the wheel wells.         KG           
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Bruce
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« Reply #10 on: October 07, 2011, 05:47:53 am »

... with the right combination of ratchets, extentions, plug sockets etc. I never found it all that difficult,
  Same here.  I took a Craftsman socket and chucked it in the lathe to make it a thin wall, super short socket.  Works great.
It's not much effort to pull the carb and manifold when you need to change your plugs.  Trying to do it under the car through holes with the manifold in the way seems to me like trying to have sex with your pants on.
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JS
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« Reply #11 on: October 07, 2011, 17:49:57 pm »

I pull my carbs to change plugs. 5min off - 10min on. I use a 1/4" ratchet, 10" extender, and 10mm pipe connected to a swivel.
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Sarge
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« Reply #12 on: October 08, 2011, 00:03:18 am »


   "I have had both deanos and skat traks, and with the right combination of ratchets, extentions, plug sockets etc. I never found it all that difficult, I must say a bench grinder and a little common sense used to alter your tools is a considerable help."  
       

Well put!  It's easy to modify a socket... use a Craftsman as it's broached the full length.  Chuck it up in a lathe and knock off 10mm or so, then use a bench grinder on the other end.  A wobbly style extension works best.
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DKP III
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« Reply #13 on: October 08, 2011, 00:28:10 am »

Gary Berg taught me the wobbly extension is the secret to plugs/manifolds. Works a treat Wink
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Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
So.Cal.Life
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« Reply #14 on: October 08, 2011, 08:35:03 am »

    Looks like Sarge got into my toolbox!!! Shocked Shocked Cheesy         
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nicolas
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« Reply #15 on: October 08, 2011, 08:51:04 am »

while on the subject of manifolds, is there a benefit in performance or use to flip the carbs. like on the gene berg manifolds you can either set them up with the fuel-inlet either in or out? why is this done?
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Bruce
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« Reply #16 on: October 08, 2011, 09:00:36 am »

Depends on the linkage you want to use.  Center pull, or cross bar.
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #17 on: October 08, 2011, 14:18:17 pm »

while on the subject of manifolds, is there a benefit in performance or use to flip the carbs. like on the gene berg manifolds you can either set them up with the fuel-inlet either in or out? why is this done?

I have often wondered this. Of course there would be no difference in flow at WOT (but how often are you at WOT on a street car anyway?).  Are there differences in flow at partial throttle, depending on which side of the manifold the throttle plate opens? It would be an easy test on a flow bench with a pair of Berg manifolds.
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Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
volkskris
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« Reply #18 on: October 08, 2011, 15:50:38 pm »

while on the subject of manifolds, is there a benefit in performance or use to flip the carbs. like on the gene berg manifolds you can either set them up with the fuel-inlet either in or out? why is this done?

I have often wondered this. Of course there would be no difference in flow at WOT (but how often are you at WOT on a street car anyway?).  Are there differences in flow at partial throttle, depending on which side of the manifold the throttle plate opens? It would be an easy test on a flow bench with a pair of Berg manifolds.
udo becker manifolds could be used too  Wink
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Bruce
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« Reply #19 on: October 09, 2011, 05:42:46 am »

Look at the way the throttle shafts work.  If you orient IDAs with the fuel inlet to the inside, you're using cross bar linkage.  Flip them around, you need to use center pull linkage.
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So.Cal.Life
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« Reply #20 on: October 09, 2011, 05:51:19 am »

      Bergs  linkage works both ways. 
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nicolas
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« Reply #21 on: October 09, 2011, 10:28:11 am »

yes the linkage can determine how they are set up, but i like to use a centerpull and have used it on the 'normal' (inlet inside) as well. in case of the IDF manifolds you have to. so i don't really see the advantage of casting a totally different manifold just because of the linkage. and like So.Cal.Life said, Bergs work both ways and it is them (as Udo) that have a manifold that can use the carbs flipped.
So i am sure there must be another reason.
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Bruce
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« Reply #22 on: October 09, 2011, 18:52:24 pm »

Bergs  linkage works both ways. 
True, but it doesn't work very well when the fuel inlets are away from the fan shroud.
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Sarge
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« Reply #23 on: October 09, 2011, 19:46:03 pm »

Seemed like back in the day (late '60's early '70's), most guys ran short manifolds and they ran them with a Berg linkage no problem.  I was a hack back then, more interested in getting on the street then in spending time setting things up properly.  Looking at my pic closely, I needed to take some extra time getting the fan shroud to fit better allowing the linkage to work better (note the left rod is screwed way in the right way out).  Back then, I never gave stuff like that much thought... Embarrassed
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DKP III
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« Reply #24 on: October 10, 2011, 08:57:11 am »

      Back in those days the only tall manifolds I knew of were Empi's and people used their cross bar linkage as a package deal, the shorts were Deano and Bergs and both had fuel inlets away from the fan shroud , most everyone used Berg linkage, I don't remember anyone having any problems, myself included, I do remember complaints with Deano linkage because the rods were not equal length causing the carbs to open at different rates , between idle and full throttle, surging at cruising speed, etc.      KG
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nightmair nick
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« Reply #25 on: October 10, 2011, 10:22:28 am »

while at it...mechanic fuel pump is working well enough for the IDA??or would you recommand electric pump with regulator?it is for a 1776 mild engine...
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Sarge
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« Reply #26 on: October 10, 2011, 14:44:17 pm »


while at it...mechanic fuel pump is working well enough for the IDA??or would you recommand electric pump with regulator?it is for a 1776 mild engine...


I have run stock fuel pumps all my life (a LONG time) with 48IDA's and had no problems.  Dare to be different. Wink
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DKP III
nicolas
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« Reply #27 on: October 10, 2011, 17:52:56 pm »


while at it...mechanic fuel pump is working well enough for the IDA??or would you recommand electric pump with regulator?it is for a 1776 mild engine...


I have run stock fuel pumps all my life (a LONG time) with 48IDA's and had no problems.  Dare to be different. Wink


or stick with what works in the first place  Grin
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Rick Meredith
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« Reply #28 on: October 10, 2011, 17:53:09 pm »

while at it...mechanic fuel pump is working well enough for the IDA??or would you recommand electric pump with regulator?it is for a 1776 mild engine...

I'll 2nd what Sarge said. Ran my 1776 with a mechanical pump and it was a few steps above "mild"
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JS
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« Reply #29 on: October 10, 2011, 18:21:53 pm »

while at it...mechanic fuel pump is working well enough for the IDA??or would you recommand electric pump with regulator?it is for a 1776 mild engine...

I'll 2nd what Sarge said. Ran my 1776 with a mechanical pump and it was a few steps above "mild"

I concur.
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