How can I upgrade my drum brakes 'wide five' systeme as i dont want to swap them with disc brakes and i will run a 1776 and really want to stick with og cal looker of the 70s?? master cylinder, wheel cylinders, machining the inner of the drums???
let me know your thoughts and tips
Porsche A/B drums are the ultimate (almost as good as disc) but I have the feeling you'd swallow your tongue at the cost. But that's for you to decide. If you go that route all I can say is do your homework. Thin liners are the least of your worries (heaved liners and worn splines are more common than not). And don't buy anything you can't check in person unless you have reason to trust the seller.
Best thing you can do on stock drums is get good linings, have them arced to the drum ID, and bed them in properly. I recommend ABEX linings. It's tough to find someone local to arc shoes anymore but it's worth every penny. Turn a drum only if it's out of round or grooved heavily (you can scuff a glazed drum). Run 'em hard on bed-in but don't overheat 'em. Buy good fluid that has a high boiling point and change it annually. Strip the paint off your drums and dust 'em lightly with black barbecue paint to keep 'em from rusting too bad.
A dual-circuit master cylinder is a good idea if you don't have one. You likely won't get any more than bragging rights and a little more life out of teflon lines. People make a big deal out of Type III rear drums but rear brakes do only about 20 to 30 percent of the braking.
But in the end you will experience wonderfully scary fade if you try to bring down a drum-brake VW from speed. They weren't meant to quickly stop a car from 90mph. It takes more effort but Porsche drums will fade too.
The Cal-look Lounge
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