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Author Topic: 1930 Ford track T roadster  (Read 31969 times)
Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #30 on: March 11, 2013, 19:15:45 pm »


    Here a few more pictures.

Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #31 on: May 29, 2013, 18:44:47 pm »


   A little more progress from this past weekend. Figured out the location for my engine mounts and the center brace for the transmission mount as well. Next weekend we will be adding various brace across the frame for better support and " Z " the chassis at the rear to set up the rear end and suspension. Here a few pictures to show.

Thanks
Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #32 on: May 29, 2013, 18:53:06 pm »



    Here a few more pictures from this past weekend.

Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #33 on: May 29, 2013, 19:00:57 pm »



    I modified the frame by boxing in the sides to have the frame much stronger than originally made. Took a while for the box plates to fit around the front engine mounts nicely. Same for the rear box plates to fit nicely around the frame edges once welded in than I will grind out the welds by rounding them off. Next I will be posting pictures of the transmission mount and the cross braces welded to give it more support. And at last we will be cutting the back end of the frame and raising it up to fit the rear end and installing the body back on to see how far up it will have to be sitting.

Thanks
Frenchy
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rick m
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Driving Hot VWs for 44 Years Strong!


« Reply #34 on: May 29, 2013, 23:27:34 pm »

Looking good Frenchy.  The welds are even looking good! Nice work.

Rick Mortensen
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Rick Mortensen
Driving Hot VWs since 1970
Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #35 on: May 29, 2013, 23:34:24 pm »



    Thanks Rick moving along with the project. In the next few weeks weld all of the box plates and the center braces.

Frenchy
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Neil Davies
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« Reply #36 on: May 30, 2013, 06:33:25 am »

I saw a rod recently with a boxed chassis that didn't look boxed at first glance. The boxing plates had been set inside the chassis rails by 15mm or so instead of flush with the outside. Just a simple visual trick but it really worked!
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #37 on: May 30, 2013, 18:24:48 pm »


  It is better to have the box set on the outside edges with a 45 degree to give you the room to add the welds on this edge making it stronger than you can grind the radius making it clean look.

Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #38 on: August 05, 2013, 20:56:35 pm »



    Here a few pictures of the progress from this past week. We now have a rolling chassis.

   Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #39 on: August 05, 2013, 20:58:59 pm »



    Here a few more. Next we will be adding the rear shocks and the front as well. The steering box was installed.

Frenchy
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rick m
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« Reply #40 on: August 05, 2013, 23:08:18 pm »

Very cool Frenchy.  How much are you channeling the body over the frame rails (if any)?

Rick Mortensen
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Rick Mortensen
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #41 on: August 06, 2013, 02:48:26 am »


   Rick no channeling here just the body on top of the frame. So far so good we are doing most of it at Marc's shop.

Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #42 on: August 07, 2013, 06:52:18 am »


    I do not want to take all of the credit my son Marc was doing most of the welding on the chassis and he is very anal about the welds and how he wants it to look. So I step aside and let him go at it.

Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #43 on: August 15, 2013, 17:12:38 pm »



    Here a few updates on the project. This past weekend we had to do some trimming in the cross member brace to fit my Hurst shifter and the linkage to the transmission also the template is showing the additional plate to go around the shifter area. We also had to extend the shifter plate to the right so it would be positioned in the center of the transmission.

Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #44 on: August 15, 2013, 17:14:31 pm »



    A few more

 Frenchy
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« Reply #45 on: August 17, 2013, 02:38:35 am »

Lookin' good Frenchy!
I'm surprised that yer able to row through all the gears without the shifter extension hitting the crossmember. Nice work!

Mark
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #46 on: August 17, 2013, 06:02:52 am »


     Mark

     We have it about 1 inch and it is working well. It was a bit difficult to have it just right.

Frenchy
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« Reply #47 on: August 17, 2013, 08:33:38 am »

When yer ready to calibrate your speedometer, let me know if you need a different "driven gear" for the trans. I have several different colors (indicating the ratio) left over from when I did my truck. If I have what you need, it's yours!
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #48 on: August 18, 2013, 01:38:34 am »

When yer ready to calibrate your speedometer, let me know if you need a different "driven gear" for the trans. I have several different colors (indicating the ratio) left over from when I did my truck. If I have what you need, it's yours!

   I appreciate the offer.

Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #49 on: August 22, 2013, 19:24:34 pm »

   After doing some modifications on the center brace to make the shifter area looking presentable my son did not like the way it look so we decided to cut the original center brace and make our own with a solid piece and making it fit better than the original one. Here are pictures showing cutting it off and grinding all the rivets holding the center brace. Next I will be posting the new brace.

Thanks
Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #50 on: August 27, 2013, 17:56:59 pm »


I had a friend help me and make my rear upper shock mount. The one on the right is the original one I had and was too short.

Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #51 on: September 03, 2013, 18:15:51 pm »

A few changes from the weekend my son did not like the cross brace and we decided to cut it off and build a new one that would fit better and been able to install the hurst shifter see pictures.

Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #52 on: September 05, 2013, 18:59:26 pm »

We worked on the project last night and this is what we did. Made the trans mount to fit near the linkage area. The last two pictures showing the two bolts where the plate will be welded in to the brace.

Frenchy
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neilswheels
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WWW
« Reply #53 on: September 12, 2013, 20:45:28 pm »

Are  you putting a Splitty dash in that!! boy, that will drive the hot rodders insane! Love it.

Just helped a friend put his track T together. He did most of the work, thrashing everynight afterwork for about a month to get it to Pendine sands last weekend for the first VHRA speed trails. He wanted to keep it all pre 40,Original rails, 36 rear I think, 39 flattie, 3 speedfloor shift, tub is a bit of phaeton and some fabrication. Its a bit 'raw' but ran 84mph


Looking forward to more updates.
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #54 on: October 03, 2013, 18:57:59 pm »



   Slowly but shurely we are making progress on this one. See pictures where we are as of today.

Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #55 on: November 08, 2013, 17:12:33 pm »

 I brought the car home this past weekend from my son's shop to start installing the brake lines,fuel lines, installing the steering column and figure out the pedal     assembly etc ...Here are a few pictures. I also have the oval fuel tank on order from the Hot Rod shop.

Thanks
Frenchy
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #56 on: November 08, 2013, 17:13:54 pm »


   One more front shot.

Frenchy
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Fastbrit
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Keep smiling...


« Reply #57 on: November 08, 2013, 18:10:55 pm »

Very cool, mon ami!  Cool
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Der Kleiner Panzers VW Club    
12.56sec street-driven Cal Looker in 1995
9.87sec No Mercy race car in 1994
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #58 on: November 17, 2013, 21:11:17 pm »

I got a pair of front shocks and I did not like the look of the dust cover so I decided to cut the dust cover off which gives a better look also if you polish the stainless shaft looks better they will be painted gloss black.

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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #59 on: December 02, 2013, 17:41:36 pm »

Had the chance to work on my project for the last 3 days or so. Ran the brake lines through the frame from the front to the rear. The rear brake line to some time to figure out the best way for routing. Also the clutch cylinder and the brake pedals modifications for the proper angle of the pads. Also made the hoop for the driveshaft for clearance of the body. Fuel line was routed as well and will be going along the frame to the rear where the fuel tank will be installed on top of the buggy spring frame. The brake and fuel lines will be painted black the only detail will be the fittings they will be polished.We modified the pedals so that the steering column would fit better between them and not rubbing against it.The hoop will be trimmed at the bottom to fit evenly with the bar.I still need a yoke for the trans which has 16 splines so I can have a driveshaft made to fit

Thanks

Frenchy
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