How much money to run 10s in a street car?now with part2, The evolution to turbo

[modnrod]

Sometimes the extra weight is compensated for by the extra aeros from being, uhhmmmm, "rounded".
 

That's my theory and I'm sticking with it.

[andy198712]

which does raise a very good point.... this thread seems to miss the driver?

carbon helmet over a heavy one, maybe even 1kg there??!! more like 500grams but still.

also unless your pretty lean, you can loose KG's that way too.

just a thought  (given how much i've eaten over xmas  )

I did show scales with and without driver before, I am not a jockey that's for sure and it is a big problem trying to scale a car with a typical weight[170-200lbs] driver and nothing to offset the weight.

Last time I bought a new helmet I compared the carbon version to normal and it really isn't worth it, it was something like less than 1/2lb, real benefit would be in a circuit or rally car were the weight saving helps with fatigue

cheers Richie 

even worse would be going through all that trouble to balance your car then loosing loads of weight 

a light helmet is defiantly a nice thing to have from a bike perspective so get what you mean!

[hotstreetvw]

Richie, do you not need the two bars that run down to the tunnel at the main hoop?

can you show a picture of how that is done. i am considering a cross member between the shock towers, but this is new to me or is it the downbars from the main hoop that go to the torsion housing insted of the shell near the wheel wells?

 

cheers Richie

[richie]

Richie, do you not need the two bars that run down to the tunnel at the main hoop?

Nope

[hotstreetvw]

Is that a English/European standard?  Maybe I've read the NHRA rules incorrectly, i think are required for us.  I haven't installed them yet in my new cage.  If I can get away with not, I will leave them out!

[spanners]

It can be a headache adding driver weight for corner weighting, not so bad for 9 stoners when i use workshop oil or coolant 20lts tubs, for the monsters i have sand sacks, always being wet and damp kept outside is helpful, odd how the local cats keep pouring gear oil on them tho😆

[richie]

Is that a English/European standard?  Maybe I've read the NHRA rules incorrectly, i think are required for us.  I haven't installed them yet in my new cage.  If I can get away with not, I will leave them out!

The bars to torsion housing do same thing, rules don't say has to go to tunnel do they? that's a lazy way to do it that came from a shop in OC I believe as example what would happen in a front engine type car with replacement aluminium tunnel?

cheers Richie

[thehanz DVK]

now this is intresting    like the 10 second tought and the blue bottle....this is a thread to follow....

your thread did move the thought nearer the front of my brain,so you are partly responsible for my actions no luxury of a 5 speed here though,I will have to out up with the noise of a short 4th gear

cheers richie

sorry about that...   for me it is the once in a lifetime car with as les limits as possible (for me that is)  , you will go to scc ?? then i drop by for a nitro talk, and a beer

Start to read this thread again......now after 5 years.....my NOS adventure's is gonna start 👍🏼

[richie]

Start to read this thread again......now after 5 years.....my NOS adventure's is gonna start 👍🏼

Time to go fast

[hotstreetvw]

Thanks Richie.

I thought they were there for lateral support so the main hoop doesn't collapse into a parallelogram.

Is that a English/European standard?  Maybe I've read the NHRA rules incorrectly, i think are required for us.  I haven't installed them yet in my new cage.  If I can get away with not, I will leave them out!

The bars to torsion housing do same thing, rules don't say has to go to tunnel do they? that's a lazy way to do it that came from a shop in OC I believe as example what would happen in a front engine type car with replacement aluminium tunnel?

cheers Richie

[richie]

Thanks Richie.

I thought they were there for lateral support so the main hoop doesn't collapse into a parallelogram.

If it is built correct I don't think that should happen[if a crash is bad enough to collapse the main hoop those 2 bars to tunnel aren't going to be enough to save you] look at a typical vw chassis, it doesn't have them does it? That's my thinking anyway

cheers Richie

[Rocket Ron]

[/quote]

I got another piece of the puzzle come in the mail today, some IDA pattern jenvey throttle bodies
[/quote]

I know this was a while ago but what size bodies are you using Richie

48 or 50

regards Ron

[richie]

I got another piece of the puzzle come in the mail today, some IDA pattern jenvey throttle bodies
[/quote]

I know this was a while ago but what size bodies are you using Richie

48 or 50

regards Ron
[/quote]

50s 

[Rocket Ron]

Thanks

[Fiatdude]

Thanks Richie.

I thought they were there for lateral support so the main hoop doesn't collapse into a parallelogram.

If it is built correct I don't think that should happen[if a crash is bad enough to collapse the main hoop those 2 bars to tunnel aren't going to be enough to save you] look at a typical vw chassis, it doesn't have them does it? That's my thinking anyway

cheers Richie

Did anybody catch the title of that example -- -- "typical illegal vw chassis"  -- -- with no cross or x bracing you will have a weak structure....

[dragvw2180]

 That chassis is VERY similar to the chassis I built and was NHRA certed to 8.50 . I added a few more bars than they had but basically very close.

[richie]

With Cal look drags getting close it was time to give 67 a check over and get it ready for some fun   It had a fuel smell for a while and when I checked it I could see a weep from bottom of fuel tank, metal was thin near factory outlet where I welded fitting on so tank out, gave it a quick wash/rinse out and then welder out, tigged it up and added a little material for strength as it was thin around there, fuel system got a clean, and I replaced filters in injectors as a couple of them were a little weaker than other 2.
All back together and runs nice again, was a little fat after injector filter clean so quick adjustment on map to lean it out slightly  so now just nitrous system to check over and a road test  and that should be it ready to go

cheers Richie

[gbaker770]

The title of this thread is how much to run in the 10's and here's my story so far.
Motor is a used up case, 76 crank, aa stock length rods with arp bolts, 94 mm AA  cast pistons and hyper cylinders, Paradise cam, 044 heads with 44 x 37.5 valves TI retainers, PSI springs, T3/4 turbo from Turbos Direct, and 48 mm Dellorto carb. Type 1 gearbox with a stage 1 and Kennedy 4 puck.
So with my car now in the 6.70's I would think I would be pretty solid in the 10's. This is at 14 psi so I think there's  quite a bit left.
After all of the changes and stuff I've broken I probably have about 10-11k US in the car. Most parts were just used stuff that came with the car, quite a few parts I traded for and some new parts and upgrades that I bought. I'ts been a bit of a journey to get there but it has paid off. I have quite a few people that have really been great along the way. As much as I love driving and racing the car I think its the people that keep me coming back.
I'm going to run it on the 1/4 mile this week or the first time for some testing before Dragnight. I cant call it a 10 second car until I've got a framed timeslip.

[richie]

 cant call it a 10 second car until I've got a framed timeslip.

Hi Gavin

good effort there, and nicely done on a small budget   as this is the internet you can call it what you want, hey I seen people claim 8 second cars even though it never ever went to track   

But in all seriousness you are right, getting it to live to 1/8th is a lot easier than to 1/4 so good luck getting that ticket, being a turbo car with that 1/8 it should go 10.50s I reckon if gearing is good

cheers Richie

[gbaker770]

Thanks Richie, I'm not that optimistic as far as 10.50's go. We're going to keep the boost where it is and watch the AFR's carefully. I'd be happy if it cracked the 80's or 90's off the trailer.  We're now finally getting it done to the 60'. I put some new Menscer shocks on the car and it is 60'ing in the mid to low 1.40's. Pretty respectable in my eyes for a 1850 lb street car with a stage 1 in it. We're super pleased.
Our fingers are crossed, heading out tomorrow.

[PPRMicke]

Is that a English/European standard?  Maybe I've read the NHRA rules incorrectly, i think are required for us.  I haven't installed them yet in my new cage.  If I can get away with not, I will leave them out!

'

NHRA = FIA rules
See the page 7
file:///C:/Users/m/Downloads/fia_drag_racing_-_technical_regulations_and_race_procedures_-_2017%20(1).pdf
Good drawing on the bow see page 30
http://www.sbf.se/globalassets/svenska-bilsportforbundet/regler/dragracing/dr_tekniska_regler-2017.pdf
/// Micke

[Chip]

Richie, what are you using for a clutch on this car? I know its much lighter than mine, but I'm just trying to see what others are doing.

[richie]

Richie, what are you using for a clutch on this car? I know its much lighter than mine, but I'm just trying to see what others are doing.

Hi Chip,

 I am trying Stage 2 and 4 puck at moment, I did run a stage 1 & 4 puck briefly when I 1st turboed old cab but it wouldn't hold on track as boost came in, just couldn't take the torque I think.
For what you are doing its a really hard task to find a good balance between street manners and track grip, a stage 1 and real black magic is probably best compromise, but it is a compromise.
I would really like to get a double disc made with normal disc material like a super daikin has and see how that worked but not got time at moment

cheers Richie

[Fiatdude]

I had a Kennedy dual disc in mine and it is not a street setup (stage 1 PP)-- it worked excellently at the track, but it was really difficult to slip in any circumstance for street use.

I'm trying a stage two with a 6 puck with my new engine combo (2332 w/ turbo)

[Chip]

I've currently got a stage 3 and Diamondback. Its worked pretty well for years, but wouldn't hold last weekend at the track. It would let go once the boost came on as well. Gonna check everything out once i find time to tear it down. Hoping to just find warped pp that can be resurfaced. Its been in service for 5 years now.

[wph]

I would really like to get a double disc made with normal disc material like a super daikin has and see how that worked but not got time at moment

Richie, this has been on my mind too, 7" aluminum Tilton dual hat and two "normal" 180mm discs custom built with clutch management...
Loads of pressure plate springs to choose from in their catalog, might be doable
 
 

[richie]

I've currently got a stage 3 and Diamondback. Its worked pretty well for years, but wouldn't hold last weekend at the track. It would let go once the boost came on as well. Gonna check everything out once i find time to tear it down. Hoping to just find warped pp that can be resurfaced. Its been in service for 5 years now.

That is pretty impressive it lasted that long, a new disc and a resurface or replacement cover should work ok again then

cheers Richie

[richie]

After the street car shoot out cruise Saturday I fitted slicks and stinger and did 4 passes, 1st pass was aborted as nitrous fuel solenoid stuck open flooding engine as soon as I activated it, next pass was a nice straight 10.48@129mph, then I tried bring nitrous in quicker but it just wanted to go up, was fun but not as quick.
Here's one of those passes

Kalle I know you like a street car wheelie enjoy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1CJHfZJ4GI&feature=share

[richie]

10.48@129mph pass

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Dj-V1b_KYM

[modnrod]

That's a cool car Ritchie.
 

I've changed the colour of the steelies on my car so it doesn't look just like it! Hahaha!

Nice ride.