The Cal-look Lounge
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
November 24, 2024, 06:08:25 am

Login with username, password and session length
Thank you for your support!
Search:     Advanced search
351211 Posts in 28657 Topics by 6854 Members
Latest Member: 74meanmachine
* Home This Year's European Top 20 lists All Time European Top 20 lists Search Login Register
+  The Cal-look Lounge
|-+  Cal-look/High Performance
| |-+  Pure racing
| | |-+  Pauter block cooling options
« previous next »
Pages: 1 [2] Print
Author Topic: Pauter block cooling options  (Read 21234 times)
Fast54
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 75



« Reply #30 on: July 29, 2012, 22:47:38 pm »

This is one way, my own aluminum design.
Of course this is a low comp.ratio turbo motor, so it runs cooler than an aspirated. About 125C on the road.
/Hεkan
Logged
Andy Sykes
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1203



« Reply #31 on: July 29, 2012, 22:56:29 pm »

That's is very nice Smiley

Cheers andy
Logged

I love the haters they make me famous.

im building this not just putting parts together, they are two totally different things

Your only here once turn it up to 11
dannyboy
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1169



« Reply #32 on: July 29, 2012, 23:31:35 pm »

bloody hell that thing looks like its come out of the space shuttle  Shocked Cool
Logged

8.77@156.8mph 
O/FF 60
......
Andy Sykes
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1203



« Reply #33 on: July 30, 2012, 20:26:06 pm »

Nice chat with mario

80 mm stroke
108 bore
6,2 rod

The rest will come later
Logged

I love the haters they make me famous.

im building this not just putting parts together, they are two totally different things

Your only here once turn it up to 11
Airspeed
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 593



« Reply #34 on: July 30, 2012, 20:54:44 pm »

Cool! that 6.2 rod with the 80mm stroke will make for a very nice rod-ratio (1.97)!
Logged

"...these cars were preferred by the racers because the strut front suspension results in far superior handling than the regular torsion bar front end..."  - Keith Seume.
10.58 @ 130 mph (2/9/2022 Santa Pod)
Andy Sykes
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1203



« Reply #35 on: July 30, 2012, 22:18:57 pm »

Oh running meth  Smiley

So my next load of questions

Apart from not liking aluminium, burning with no flame or smoke And needing lots of flow

What else ?
Logged

I love the haters they make me famous.

im building this not just putting parts together, they are two totally different things

Your only here once turn it up to 11
Lids
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 3527


show me the chedder


WWW
« Reply #36 on: July 31, 2012, 09:06:33 am »

Oh running meth  Smiley

So my next load of questions

Apart from not liking aluminium, burning with no flame or smoke And needing lots of flow

What else ?

Don't drink it (even though you can), make sure all fumes are vented so you don't get it in the cockpit, prolonged exposure can cause health problems.
Logged

If there's enough horse shit around, there must be a pony!
Buy your ciderberry here.

http://www.thatcherscider.co.uk/
Martin
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 810


Cash Converter....


WWW
« Reply #37 on: July 31, 2012, 10:39:40 am »

Oh running meth  Smiley

So my next load of questions

Apart from not liking aluminium, burning with no flame or smoke And needing lots of flow

What else ?

Richie / Jim Smith are may be the best to answer this as they use it more than anyone else on here.

I used to run it, in woper. my procedures went like this..

first fire in the morning.. use petrol! to get a little heat into the heads.
then turn on the meth, and off it goes...

Go race

At the end of the weekend, drain the tank put some petrol in it (load up your gas map Wink ) then run it to clear out the injectors and lines.

some people keep meth in the system , they just top it right up, but persoanly im like to get it out of there..

the meth you take out keep seperate from the "new meth" as it would have already started taking on water (you can get a hydromiter to see how much water is in it to make sure).

buy your meth in small containers and dont leave it open to the air, as its takes on water from the air then it just wont make the power

Dont buy the cheap "printer cleaning Alki" as the quality is not up to spec.

dont use fuel pumps that are submurged (aeromotive pro pumps ect) as the electrolisis effect just eats the pumps away, stick to a pump rated for the HP and fuel. I personaly use Weldon pumps.
as there motor is seperate from the fuel

I never suffered from milky oil as i got the oil temps up past 90 oC and the water vapoured off keeping the oil nice.

be prepaired to buy loads of it as you need twice as much! lol

and the most important bit..... Have fun!


just my take on it...

Martin

Logged

Martin

9 sec street car, its just simply not fast enough

Swing axle to CV convertion is on the website now

www.taylormachine.co.uk

OFF/500
Andy Sykes
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1203



« Reply #38 on: July 31, 2012, 18:08:12 pm »

Thanks Martin Smiley

the spec so far

1   90-1000-    F/C Pauter Big Block for Chrysler or Ford mains                
                    Includes:  dry sump pan, top and front covers, flywheel plate, cam gears, dist clamp and misc fasteners   

1   63-394   80mm Pauter billet crank / flanged end                   

1set   50-660   4340 chrome moly billet rods,( 6.200”/turbo )                      

1kit   86-030   roller cam and lifters (profile to be determined)                     

1kit   40-619   modular bore kit (4.250” pistons, cyls, rings, pins with buttons)                   
         
1pr   90-200-T   Pauter Super Pro heads stage 2 – 57m x 43m titanium valves and retainers                                                 
         PAC springs , polished, cc’d , stainless orings and assy                                                                                                                                                                                                             

1pr   90-340   Vave covers , Pauter SP heads                    
1set   90-300   exhaust flanges for customer header system                       

1set   90-301   copper exhaust gaskets                              
1set   90-1012   chrome moly head stud kit w/ nuts & washers                  

1set   81-2?0   1.4, 1.5 or 1.6 Super Pro billet roller rocker kit                     

1set   80-099   Super Pro pushrod tubes                        
1set   80-070   3/8” or 7/16” dbl tapered HT Chrome moly pushrods to length                     

1set   40-413   copper head gaskets for modular bore kit  (head to cyl interface)                    
 
1kit   xxxxx   set, rod / main / cam bearings, all seals                  

1   30-511   flanged-end flywheel w/ McLeod 2-disc clutch assembly                  

1   94-400   4-stage Center-Flo oil pump, VW drive, no fuel pump drive                                                        


cheers andy
Logged

I love the haters they make me famous.

im building this not just putting parts together, they are two totally different things

Your only here once turn it up to 11
BeetleBug
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2836


Snabba grabben...


« Reply #39 on: July 31, 2012, 18:28:41 pm »

Wow! A typical overthetop old school US engine. Built like a tank and should be perfect for your car and trailer.


Thanks Martin Smiley

the spec so far

1   90-1000-    F/C Pauter Big Block for Chrysler or Ford mains                
                    Includes:  dry sump pan, top and front covers, flywheel plate, cam gears, dist clamp and misc fasteners   

1   63-394   80mm Pauter billet crank / flanged end                   

1set   50-660   4340 chrome moly billet rods,( 6.200”/turbo )                      

1kit   86-030   roller cam and lifters (profile to be determined)                     

1kit   40-619   modular bore kit (4.250” pistons, cyls, rings, pins with buttons)                   
         
1pr   90-200-T   Pauter Super Pro heads stage 2 – 57m x 43m titanium valves and retainers                                                 
         PAC springs , polished, cc’d , stainless orings and assy                                                                                                                                                                                                             

1pr   90-340   Vave covers , Pauter SP heads                    
1set   90-300   exhaust flanges for customer header system                       

1set   90-301   copper exhaust gaskets                              
1set   90-1012   chrome moly head stud kit w/ nuts & washers                  

1set   81-2?0   1.4, 1.5 or 1.6 Super Pro billet roller rocker kit                     

1set   80-099   Super Pro pushrod tubes                        
1set   80-070   3/8” or 7/16” dbl tapered HT Chrome moly pushrods to length                     

1set   40-413   copper head gaskets for modular bore kit  (head to cyl interface)                    
 
1kit   xxxxx   set, rod / main / cam bearings, all seals                  

1   30-511   flanged-end flywheel w/ McLeod 2-disc clutch assembly                  

1   94-400   4-stage Center-Flo oil pump, VW drive, no fuel pump drive                                                        


cheers andy
Logged

10.41 - 100ci - 1641ccm - 400hp
Andy Sykes
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1203



« Reply #40 on: July 31, 2012, 18:52:57 pm »

It's the  way I roll  lol tbh I couldnt find a way to get what I was looking much less than this and not  realy proven I don't know enough about engines to make that call so somebody had to

Cheers andy
« Last Edit: July 31, 2012, 19:24:54 pm by fast65 » Logged

I love the haters they make me famous.

im building this not just putting parts together, they are two totally different things

Your only here once turn it up to 11
Jyrki
Full Member
***
Posts: 221


8.88 & 251


« Reply #41 on: July 31, 2012, 21:53:42 pm »

Jyki, very stealth looking indeed!
Why didn't you keep it?

It was pretty fun the first season (11.53/187 in a full-weight street car in full street trim; nice torque, shift point at 6300rpm), but the following year on my first pass, maybe 5 seconds into the run I realized that for drag racing it's just way too slow (ie boring), and drag racing is my thing. Sold the car w/o engine and focused again on turbos. True story  Wink
Jyrki
Logged
Shag55
Full Member
***
Posts: 220

Shag Leone, SL-1racing


« Reply #42 on: August 01, 2012, 17:59:05 pm »

Why not just turbo that car Jyrki?
Logged

325hp and 290# torque @17psi on 91 pump
383hp and 324# torque @23psi on 50/50 mix
Shag55.sl1racing@gmail.com
Facebook at SL 1 racing
volkskris
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 456



« Reply #43 on: August 01, 2012, 19:44:03 pm »

Can you share more specs of that engine please Jyrki? Smiley
Logged
Jyrki
Full Member
***
Posts: 221


8.88 & 251


« Reply #44 on: August 01, 2012, 21:39:15 pm »

I bought the engine as non-used long block in 2007 (or 2006??); it had been in a wooden crate since late 90s. The engine was in my street '55 beetle in 2008 with 62mm carbs and in 2009 with TB's and EFI. 94 stroke x 4.25" bore, 57x43 heads, roller cam, 11.0 and later 11.8:1 compression, home-built 4-2-1 header. Ran mid 11s in a 900kg street car so maybe 250-260hp / 6000rpm? Should have made more..

With turbo in that car it would have been lethal without making major changes, and I kinda already had one car that was already cut to fit turbo and everything involved. So 2010-2011 I focused on running my good old '65 street turbo car. It was fun, but after racing the same car for a long long time it was time to move on, so now the Pauter engine sits in a new project car, with shorter rods to lower compression to 8:1 and a smallish turbo. Not fired yet.

Jyrki
Logged
Pages: 1 [2] Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!